Viki Pandit

Photography

Some of my awe-inspiring experiences as I wander the beautiful Earth

The Tsuruga Castle

We take a walk to the Tsuruga Castle in Aizu Wakamatsu, a city where the influences of samurai remain strong even today. The five storied impregnable fortress and castle tower that stands today is a replica reconstructed in 1965, based on photographs and historical documents of the preceding Kurokawa Castle, built in 1384.

Catching the train to Aizu-wakamatsu

Statue of young Byakkutai warriors in front of Aizu-wakamatsu station

Akabeko, the legendary cow from the Aizu region of Japan

After dropping our luggage at the Hotel, we waled back to the station to catch the bus to Tsuruga Castle.

The bus drops you off at the Tsuruga Castle Bus Stop – Tsurugajo Kitaguchi

After walking for a few minutes we found ourselves in front of the castle walls.

The moat surrounding the castle grounds is lovely to walk around.

Chuukonhi Liberty Monument

Bell Tower on Tsuruga Castle Grounds

Tsuruga Castle Park

Tsuruga Castle

Close-up of the Tsuruga castle keep.

Tsuruga Castle Park

As evening set it, the sky turned magical

Once it was dark, the castle was flooded with colorful lights.

Walking back to the hotel

Thanks for reading!

The mysteries of Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium

We took a bus all the way from Naha to Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium. The aquarium goes up to four floors, with tanks containing deep-sea creatures, coral, and tropical fish. The main Kuroshio Sea Tank holds an enormous 7,500 cubic meters of water, stretching from the first floor all the way to the second floor of the aquarium.

Dawn in Naha

Umisora Park

Waiting at Bus Stop

Getting down at Ocean Expo Park

Ocean Expo Park

Sishi Lion

Walk to Chiraumi Aquarium

Entrance to Chiraumi Aquarium

Aquarium entrance

The Sea of Tropical Fish

Jelly Fish

Moonlight Jellyfish

The Kuroshio Sea Tank

Scalloped hammerhead

Zebra shark

Giant trevally

Aqua Room

Ocean Expo Park

American manatee

Walking to Emerald beach

Rocks along the coast

Sitting area on Churaumi Aquarium Grounds

Hotel Orion Motobu

Emerald beach

Catching the bus back to Naha

Getting down near Naha city hall

Walking along Onaribashi-dori in Naha

Snack time at Tendon Hasegawa

Walking back to Naha Beach Side Hotel

Thanks for reading!

The radiant Shuri Castle

31 October 2019 Update. It is a sad sad day as I see helicopters capturing the video footage of the Shuri Castle in flames. A massive fire broke out and burned down the Seiden, the main hall, and also the Hokuden and Nanden. The fire alarm went off around 2:30 am and by afternoon, the fire had completely gutted six of the castle’s heritage buildings. I feel a heavy burden in my heart as Okinawa’s most iconic heritage site and some of my most memorable moments vanished up in smoke.

This is my story of when I visited the castle in 2016.

Shuri Castle is a Ryukyuan gusuku castle in Shuri district of Okinawa Prefecture in Japan. The castle was built sometime in the 13th century by Shunbajunki, the second king of Chuzan. It served as the center of politics, foreign affairs, and culture of the Ryukyu Kingdom until the archipelago was annexed by the Japanese Meiji government in 1879 CE.

My day began among sunny blue skies in Nara. It was hot, but the strong breeze made it pleasant. I and my wife, Mani, got up early and had a light breakfast. We packed light. The trip to Okinawa was a short one and a single cabin bag was enough for both of us.

Our flight to Okinawa was scheduled for 10.30 am. From Nara, we took the limousine bus to Osaka KIX Airport. From KIX Airport, we caught the flight to the Ryuku kingdom on the southernmost island of Japan.

If you are catching a Peach flight from KIX Airport, you will need to get down at Terminal 2

Peach Airlines is one of the cheapest ways to reach Okinawa from Osaka. I wouldn’t recommend flying economy if you are a large figure. The spacing on the aircraft was quite constrained. Thankfully the discomfort only lasted for a wee bit over 2 hours.

We landed in Okinawa at 12.40 pm to wonderful but hot weather. The airport building is directly connected to the Okinawa Urban Monorail, also known as Yui Rail. The monorail line serves as a useful commute in the busy cities of Naha and Urasoe in Okinawa. If you don’t have anyone to pick you up and you want to save on the cab fare, you can use the monorail, which takes you directly into the city.

Fact: Okinawa is the southernmost island of Japan and Akamine Station and Naha Airport Station, are the southernmost and westernmost active rail stations in Japan.

It was only later while writing the journal that I realized, that at that moment I had inadvertently traveled to the southernmost train station in Japan. For the record, I have already been to the northernmost active station in Japan.

We had to wait for some time before the train arrived. We were heading to Asahibashi Station, where, just a few blocks away, we had booked our stay at the Naha Beachside Hotel.

As the monorail carried us into the city, I kept staring out of the window with the excitement of a schoolboy on a camping trip. I have to admit that Naha is unlike any Japanese city. Not only are the homes designed differently, but the trees and shrubs are also more tropical, like the ones found in my home city of Kolkata.

From Asahibashi Station, it was a long walk to the hotel. We were exhausted by the time we reached the hotel, but we still had some time before we could check-in. So, we just dropped our bags at the hotel reception and walked back to Asahibashi Station. The Sun was extremely strong, but we kept going.

At Asahibashi station we gathered the available information regarding local sightseeing and train timings. Since we were already out, we decided to head out to Shuri Castle. On the way, we grabbed some onigiri from a nearby convenience store.

Trains are at 8-minute intervals and it takes about 17 minutes to get to Shuri Station from Asahibashi. Within a few minutes, the monorail came wooshing along and we were on our way to explore our first heritage site in Okinawa.

The train comprised of two coaches, with a capacity of around 100 people. After getting down at Shuri Station, we were not sure about the directions to the castle so we used our phone navigation to guide us towards the castle grounds.

Shuri Castle is surrounded by a massive park. Within the castle park, there are numerous historical buildings and sites that have been passed down from the bygone era. Usually, one gains access to the castle’s grounds via the Shurei-mon Gate and passes the stone gate – Sonohyan-utaki, before entering the actual fortification walls at the Kankai-mon. However, we wanted to explore a few other structures surrounding the park before entering the castle grounds.

Benzaitendo

The first building we landed at was the Benzaitendo, sitting idly in the middle of a manmade pond called the Enganchi. A masonry bridge, called Tennyo bashi, connects the edge of the pond to the small building. The railings of the stone bridge are beautifully decorated with images of lotuses on either side.

The Enganchi is a man-made pond. It was initially constructed in 1502, to hold the spring water and rainwater that flowed from the top of Shuri Castle. Water that overflowed from this pond was collected at the Ryutan, another pond located adjacent to it.

The Benzaitendo, sitting idly in the middle, with faded, red roof tiles, enshrines the goddess Benzaiten, a deity that watches over people on voyages at sea. But I hear that it was always not so. The history of this pond and the building in the center goes back to the mid-15th century, during the reign of King Sho Toku.

The Sho family ruled the Ryukyu Kingdom from the early 15th century through 1879 when it was annexed by Japan and renamed Okinawa Prefecture

Precious Housatsuzou-kyou (Buddhist scriptures) were presented by the Korean king Sejo of the Joseon Dynasty to the then king of Okinawa, King Sho Toku. Many years after the death of Sho Toku, In 1502, by the order of King Sho Shin, a small building was built over the Enganchi Pond in order to house these scriptures.

The building was destroyed in 1609 during the invasion of Ryukyu by forces of the Japanese feudal domain of Satsuma. When it was later restored in 1629, an image of Benzaiten was enshrined here. The statue was ruined a couple of more times but it was always restored. The last time it was destroyed was during the Battle of Okinawa but again restored in 1968.

After exploring and capturing some the shots of the pond, we moved on towards the back of the castle.

Shuri Castle Grounds

Built inside a sprawling complex, Shuri Castle or Shuri-jo, includes layers of inner and outer walls constructed in different eras. As I mentioned before, Shuri-jo is a Ryukyuan gusuku castle. The “Gusuku” were basically walled compounds created between the 12th to 16th centuries, that evolved into forts and castles of local chieftains. Not all gusuku buildings evolved into castles, some of them were also religious centers used for traditional religious rituals such as nature worship.

Like other gusuku, the Shuri Castle was built using Ryukyuan limestone. The outer walls which were built during the Second Shō Dynasty, dates back to the 15th-century, while the inside walls were commissioned some time in the mid-16th century. Surrounded by these winding stone walls, Shuri-jo is neither an imposing citadel like the Matsumoto Castle nor a fortress-like the Matsue Castle. Locals describe it as a castle designed to welcome people.

Most parts of the castle can be explored free of charge. Only if you want to see the very inner parts of the castle, you’ll have to buy admission tickets, which can be purchased at the Kōfuku-mon.

Kyukei-mon Gate

We entered the castle grounds from the Kyukei-mon Gate at the back. Its foundation was laid sometime in 1477 and it was completed in 1526. Kyukei-mon is also known as Hokori Ujo. While the Kankai-mon was the main gate, Kyukei-mon functioned as a service gate where mainly women passed through. The gate was also used on certain occasions by the King when he visited the temple at the base to offer his prayers or during times he visited Urasoe district in the north

From the Kyukei-mon Gate a cobbled path leads to the Kankai-mon gate. From there a curving path leads to the Zuisen-mon gate.

Zuisen-mon

Two Shishi lions, carved in stone sit on either side of the Zuisen-mon gate. “Zuisen” means “great, auspicious fountain,” and the gate was named after a “dragon head” water conduit called “Ryuhi” in front of the gate. Shishi lions traditionally stand guard outside the gates of Japanese Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. They are always depicted in pairs, one with mouth open and one with mouth shut.

A few paces up the path leads you to the Houshin-mon Gate.

Houshin-mon Gate

Hoshin-mon Gate means “a gate to respect the gods.” Beyond the Houshin-mon Gate you will find yourself in front of the Una Forecourt with the beautiful Seiden Hall at the end.

Shuri Castle

The date of construction of Shuri Castle is uncertain, but it was clearly in use as a castle during the Sanzan period (1322 – 1429). It is believed that it was probably built during the Gusuku period (1050 -1429), like most other castles of Okinawa. The beginning of the Gusuku period corresponds to that of the Old Ryukyu period of Okinawan historiography, both beginning in 1187 with the semi-legendary ascension of King Shunten. When King Shō Hashi unified the three principalities of Okinawa and established the Ryukyu Kingdom, he used Shuri as a residence. At the same time, Shuri flourished as the capital and continued to do so during the Second Shō Dynasty.

The characteristics of Ryukyuan architecture at Shuri-jo lies in the unique features of Ryukyuan designs arranged with the influences of both the architectural styles of Japan and China. The Seiden is the Honden or the main hall of Shurijo Castle and, unlike Japanese castles with Tenshukaku or castle towers, it shows architectural styles of Chinese imperial structures and strong influences of Japanese architectural features of shrines and temples.

A three-story structure with wide stone steps at the front, and the dragon pillars of Dairyuchu and Shoryuchu which are carved out as columns. At the center of the Seiden’s roof is a design known as Karahafu.

The karahafu is perhaps the most instantly recognizable Japanese architectural feature, yet its origins are not well established in Western literature. Folk etymology suggests that the style was imported from China sometime during the Nara or Heian period. You can clearly see its ominous presence at the entrance to the Todai-ji.

Seiden Hall of Shuri Castle

For 450 years from 1429, it was the royal court and administrative center of the Ryukyu Kingdom. It was the focal point of foreign trade, as well as the political, economic, and cultural heart of the Ryukyu Islands. According to records, the castle burned down several times, and rebuilt each time.

The 15th century was the kingdom’s golden age but after that, it experienced one hardship after another. During the reign of Shō Nei, samurai forces from the Japanese feudal domain of Satsuma seized Shuri in May 1609. The Japanese withdrew soon afterwards, returning Shō Nei to his throne two years later, and the castle and city to the Ryukyuans, though the kingdom was now a vassal state under Satsuma’s suzerainty and would remain so for roughly 250 years.

After taking a breather we walked in to explore the interiors of the castle. In order to enter the Seiden, one enters the buildings on the right hand side of the Una at the one-storied Bandokoro, which houses, just like the connected, two-storied Nanden, a museum documenting the eventful history of the castle and royal dynasties of Okinawa.

The Shuri Castle complex itself can be divided into three main zones, namely a central administrative area (including the Seidan and Ura), an eastern living and ceremonial space (behind the Seidan) called the Ouchibara (literally “inside field”), and a southwestern ceremonial area including the Kyo-no-uchi. The living quarters were occupied by the Ryukyu Kingdom’s ruling family from 1429 to 1879.

The Hokuden also houses two miniatures of the palace’s buildings set for special ceremonies. The seating arrangement will surely remind you of scenes from mythological movies depicting the Forbidden City in Beijing.

The throne in the Karahafu area of Shuri Castle. The first floor of the Seiden was referred to as Shichagui, and this was where the King himself mainly led the ceremonies. The lavish area at the center was called the Usasuka, the royal throne where the King presided for various ceremonies. Through the sliding Shoji screens behind the Usasuka is the Ochokui, a set of stairs used exclusively by the King, and it was from these stairs that the King arrived to the Usasuka from the second floor.

The dragon is a vast imaginary beast that originally symbolized the Chinese emperor. The Ryukyuan king made extensive use of dragon images in imitation of the emperor.

The second floor of the Seiden is called the Ufugui and at the center is where the King’s throne was placed, on a platform similar to that of Shumidan Buddhist altars. Above the throne were a number of framed writings sent by Chinese emperors that read, Chuzan Seido – Ryukyu is to be ruled by the King of Chuzan; Shuzui Kyuyo – Ryukyu is where auspicious markings gather, and Eiso Eizen – rule the Kingdom of Ryukyu found across the seas with eternal happiness. These writings were framed after coated with lacquer in Ryukyu, and displayed in the palace.

The glorious throne we can see today is a reconstruction of the throne used by King Sho Shin, who ruled the island from 1477 to 1526.

There are a total of 33 dragon ornaments inside and outside of the Seiden, including the pair of large dragon pillars standing at both sides of the main entrance.

Here we have the The Royal Crown is also called HIBENKAN or TAMANCHAABUI. Along with a formal costume gifted by the Chinese emperor, it was a formal wear for the king at such nationally significant events as Sappo (enthronement of the king) and the New Year’s celebration.

Black silk crepe was attached to the crown’s surface, and 12 of tape shaped golden threads were sewn on it. 7 kinds of 24 beads – a total of 288 beads – including gold, silver, coral, and crystal were tacked on each golden thread. A dragon, the symbol of the king, was engraved in the golden ornamental hairpin.

In 1879, the kingdom was annexed by the Empire of Japan and the last king, Shō Tai, was compelled to move to Tokyo, and in 1884, he was “elevated” to the rank of marquess in the Japanese aristocracy. The kingdom was turned into Okinawa Prefecture, and its 500 years of history came to an end. Subsequently, the castle was used as a barracks by the Imperial Japanese Army. The Japanese garrison withdrew in 1896, but not before having created a series of tunnels and caverns below it.

In 1908, Shuri City bought the castle from the Japanese government, however, it did not have funding to renovate it. In 1923, thanks to Japanese architect Ito Chuta, Seiden survived demolition after being re-designated a prefectural Shinto shrine known as Okinawa Shrine. In 1925, it was designated as a national treasure.

Ryukyuan elements also dominate. Like other gusuku, the castle was built using Ryukyuan limestone, being surrounded by an outer shell which was built during the Second Shō Dynasty from the second half of the 15th century to the first half of the 16th century. Similarly, Okushoin-en is the only surviving garden in a gusuku in the Ryukyu Islands, which made use of the limestone bedrock and arranged using local cycads.

The large dragon pillars erected on both sides of the stone steps at the center of the Seiden are called Dairyuchu, and these were first created in 1508. Later, they were remade several times as the Seiden saw reconstruction works after fires. The present Dairyuchu were made after 1712, and their shape and size were referenced from damaged remains of the present pillars that managed to survive the ravages of war, and also from records that documented repairs of the Seiden in 1758.

Unlike Japanese castles, Shuri Castle was greatly influenced by Chinese architecture, with functional and decorative elements similar to that seen primarily in the Forbidden City. The gates and various buildings were painted in red with lacquer, walls and eaves colorfully decorated, and roof tiles made of Goryeo and later red Ryukyuan tiles, and the decoration of each part heavily using the king’s dragon.

Shuri Castle operated not only as a base of political and military control, it was also regarded as a central religious sanctuary of the Ryukyuan people. Formerly there were 10 utaki (shrines) within the castle and the large area on the south-western side of the citadel was occupied by a sanctuary called the Kyo-no-uchi.

We take it for granted so naturally that the islands of Okinawa are an integral part of Japan, and yet the fact is it has only been less than 150 years since they became part of the Japanese Empire.

We were both extremely tired from the exhausting walk. As the sun set of the beautiful castle we made our way down. The street lamps were on. I wished I had had some strength to set up the tripod, but I was very tired. The shots thereafter are noisy as they were taken hand-held.

We passed by the Tennyo Bashi which was dimly lit up and looked fantastical in the night.

We took the monorail back to Asahibashi Station. On the way to the hotel, we grabbed some food from a convenience store to eat at the hotel.

It was about 9 pm by the time we reached the Naha Beachside Hotel. We checked in quickly and directly went for a hot tub bath.

Shuri Castle’s history is enmeshed in the imperialist history between the island of Okinawa and Japan, which annexed the Ryukyu Islands into its feudal domain in 1879. Before then, Shuri had been the capital of Okinawa. Now, the city is part of Naha, the new capital of Japan’s Okinawa prefecture.

Thanks for reading! Tomorrow we head out to the Okinawa Churaumi considered one of the biggest aquariums in the world.

Open Timings:

April to June: 8.30 am to 7 pm (last entry: 6.30 pm)
July to September: 8.30 am to 8 pm ( last entry: 7.30 pm)
October to November: 8.30 am to 7 pm (last entry: 6.30 pm)
December to March: 8.30 am to 6 pm (last entry: 5.30 pm)

Admission fees:

Adults: 800 Yen

The moonlit Kofuku-ji Pagoda

I walked down to Kofukuji today in the evening to catch the huge Pagoda with the moon rising behind it. The five-story structure(Gojunoto) is the second tallest Pagoda in all of Japan. Built in 725 AD by the Empress Komyoh and last rebuilt in 1426, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage listed site.

The walk to Nara walk is generally entertaining.

Sarusawa Pond

Kofuku-ji Pagoda from the front

Kofuku-ji Pagoda

Petting the deer near Kofuku-ji

Deer at Nara Park

Dusk begins to take over Kofuku-ji Pagoda

The kofuku-ji Pagoda in the evening

A close-up shot of Kofuku-ji Pagoda

Nan’en-dō, Kōfuku-ji

Read all about my walk to Kofukuji. If you are visiting Nara, you can also check out my day at the Nara Deer Park.

The heavenly Adachi Gardens

The Adachi gardens feels like part of a painting. Too bad visitors cannot touch or walk among the heavenly garden. The garden is the brain-child of Adachi Zenko who created it in 1980 as a way of combining his passions for Japanese art and garden design.

Journey into Shimane

Shimane countryside

Getting down at Yasugi

Exhibits inside Yasugi Station

Bus to Adachi Museum of Art

Yasugi countryside

Entrance to Adachi Museum of Art

Adachi Garden

Zenko Adachi

Kokeniwa Garden

White Gravel and Pine Garden

Midori Tea House

Exhibits in Douga Exhibition Room

more exhibits

White Gravel and Pine Garden

Cafe entrance

Stone lantern

Ikeniwa Garden

narrow gravel path

White Gravel and Pine Garden

White Gravel and Pine Garden

Closeup

Karesan Water Garden

Souvenirs shops outside

Back at yasugi station

Shimane countryside on ride back to Osaka

Thanks for reading!

An evening at Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda

Today we take a walk down to Yasaka-dori in Kyoto to the stunning Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda. Built in 592 CE, the Pagoda with the temple treasure (Yasakato-ezu) is the last remaining structure of the once flourishing temple of Hokan-ji. The rest of the structures have either been destroyed by fires or earthquakes over the years.

Kyoto has many attractions for the wide-eyed tourists. The Kinkaku-ji Temple, the Kiyomizu-dera Temple, and the Fushimi Inari-taisha being my favorites, but if you are photographically inclined, the Yasaka Pagoda is not to be missed. With its old city charm and cobblestone paths, the surroundings of this mystical place takes your breath away, especially during the evenings when the pathways are illuminated in a golden glow from gas-lit street lights.

How to reach Yasaka Pagoda from Kyoto Station

I and my wife, Mani, were coming in from Nara, another heritage city with hundreds of ancient temples and shrines. Nara is around a 40-minute ride on the JR local to Kyoto. If you are coming from outside to tour Kyoto or even staying there, it is best to start from the JR Kyoto Station. You will be able to obtain the current Bus time-tables at the tourist information center inside the station. You can also buy a full-day bus ticket from one of the vending machines that allows you unlimited travel on the public bus for a day. If you are planning to go to more than two sight-seeing points, it is best to obtain the full-day pass. From the station, you can catch either Kyoto City Bus #100 or #206 to reach the pagoda.

Yasaka Dori

The bus dropped us off at the Kiyomizu-michi bus stop. Since we were only going to the Yasaka Pagoda, we didn’t go for the full-day bus pass. The one-way ride cost us ¥230 per head.

As soon as you turn your back towards the bus, you will feel transported to a timeless past. This is the Higashiyama District and the Yasaka pagoda lies in the heart of this district. From the bus stop, it is about a 5-minute walk to the pagoda.

Old town charm of the Higashiyama District

Of the mountains surrounding Kyoto, the ones which are closest to the present downtown area lie towards the east. This is why this whole eastern region of Kyoto is called Higashiyama which literally translates to eastern mountains. Since ancient times this area has been rich in Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.

The Higashiyama District along the lower slopes of Kyoto’s eastern mountains is one of the city’s best-preserved historic districts. From ancient times, the mist-shrouded slopes of Higashiyama and the hills bordering Kyoto on the east, have inspired generations of poets and artists.

These 36 peaks are home to many temples, restaurants, inns, and tea shops – all picturesquely located along narrow winding streets. The shops that line these streets are always crowded, but it is not like the crowds in India. It is a much relaxed and silent gathering.

Visitors can enter the pagoda up to the 2nd floor for a price of ¥400.

Yasaka Dori (八坂通り) is a lovely, quiet path through the back streets leading to Yasaka Pagoda. It is an amazing place to walk around and explore the traditional old houses. Rickshaw drivers can be seen ferrying the wide-eyed tourists along this path. The area’s narrow alleys and machiya (traditional wooden buildings) are filled with small shops, cafes, and restaurants. The street runs between Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka slopes, and ends at the most iconic photo spot with the Yasaka pagoda looming over the cobbled path.

The walk presents lovely views of the Yasaka-no-tō tiered pagoda above traditional gabled roofs. It’s old Kyoto and it’s beautiful.

Long before the actual founding of Heiankyō, the capital of peace and tranquility, a tribe called Yasaka no Miyatsuko had immigrated from the Korean empire of Kōrai and settled at these foothills. Hokan-ji was most likely founded as early as 588 by this immigrant family from Koguryo, modern Korea. The Yasaka-no-Miyatsuko settled in the foothills of Higashiyama during the Asuka period & established the temple as their religious center.

Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda is also known as Hokanji Temple. It was built in 592, which makes it the oldest pagoda in Kyoto.

Their religious life centered around the Hōkan-ji Temple, a Buddhist temple built around 589. The temple itself has been long lost to fire. Of the precinct, only the pagoda is left standing today and is the most important vertical marker within the district today.

July is also the month of festivals in Japan. Saki Matsuri, the early festivities of the Gion Festival begins on July 10th and peaks on the 17th. We were just a day early but as we waited for the Sun to set over the lovely pagoda, troops of children in white attire rode down the cobbled street in makeshift carts. With them followed a horde of tourists flashing away their cameras.

Think of the saki matsuri as a way for downtown Kyotoites to welcome the deities to their town in a similar way as we Bengalis, welcome the goddess Durga into our city of Kolkata.

Yasaka Pagoda

Once the evening started to set and the shops began to close, the huddle of tourists disappeared from the area and the streets were empty again. In the rare silence, I set up my tripod and quickly captured the most iconic landmark of Kyoto in the beautiful surrounding blue light.

Kyoto has four five-storied pagodas, which are located in temples around the city: Hokan-ji, Daigo-ji, To-ji, and Ninna-ji. Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda, also known as Hokanji Temple is the tallest among them and was built in 592, which also makes it the oldest pagoda in Kyoto.

Origins of Yasaka Pagoda

There are various theories about the origins of the Hokanji Temple, but it is generally believed to have been founded in the Asuka period (593–710) as the guardian temple of the Yasaka clan. Although details from the early history of the Yasaka Pagoda are scarce, there is information about the fires. In 1179, the Pagoda was burned in a dispute between the Yasaka Shrine and the Kiyomizu-dera Temple. The temple was rebuilt by Shogun Minamoto Yorimoto in 1191. Later the records show that the temple again burned down in 1291 and 1436.

The current 49-meter tall five-tier pagoda is a reconstruction built in 1440 by Ashikaga Yoshinori and is a nationally designated Important Cultural Property. The construction and design of the pagoda were never altered, despite being rebuilt several times after different blazes.

The Yasaka Pagoda is dedicated to the five great Nyorai, who are depicted in sculptures and murals inside the pagoda. The epithet Temple Hikan-ji reveals in its suffix that it was not the main temple but rather a secondary one. At the base of the pagoda are four finely carved Buddha statues arranged around the points of a compass. Visitors can go inside the pagoda to view a dais on which are placed figures of Mahavairocana, Akshobhya, Ratnasambhava, Amitabha, and amoghasiddhi – the Five Perfected Ones; as well as the interior structure of the pagoda and the great central pillar supporting it.

The Yasaka Pagoda is said to contain some of Buddha’s ashes beneath its massive central pillar.

As it got darker, the yellow lamps from the street took over. The evening tourists had disappeared from the streets and the dim light from the street lights bathed the closed wooden storefronts. I felt as though I had stumbled upon a sleeping 18th-century town when life was a lot simpler.

Did you know that to make this view perfect, all the electric and telephone lines were moved underground?

The rather narrow street west of the pagoda runs straight north to the southern entrance of the Gion Shrine, renamed Yasaka Shrine in 1868, the first year of Meiji.

Around the pagoda, there are gently sloping hill east towards the mountains. The cobbled street here is known as the Sannen-zaka, the “Three Year Slope”. To the north is the Ninen-zaka, or “Two Year Slope”. Both streets were paved with stones in about 808.

Illuminated Yasaka Pagoda

The Higashiyama area doesn’t have a lot of tall buildings, so the pagoda is a landmark in the Higashiyama area. The pagoda is surrounded by traditional Japanese-style houses so if you go there, you can feel the history of this area. It was dark, I took one last shot of us to keep as memorabilia, and then we made our way back to the Kiyomizu-michi bus stop.

After a small wait at the bus stop, we were able to catch a bus back to Kyoto Station.

Note: The bus back from here is always full and the less weight you carry, the better it is for you.

Over the centuries, millions of pilgrims have passed along these streets, stopping to buy a charm, sip a cup of green tea or purchase a Kyoyaki (Japanese pottery traditionally from Kyoto). This is a great place to experience the traditional Kyoto, where the narrow lanes, wooden buildings, and traditional merchant shops invoke a feeling of the old capital city.

If you are visiting the pagoda, only a short walk away, on the border of the historic Gion district, lies the ornate red-and-white gate of the Yasaka Shrine. Open 24 hours a day, the shrine is one of the most popular shrines in Kyoto.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked my story or follow my travels as I go on a day tour of Shimane to explore the perfectly manicured gardens of Adachi.

When was Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda built?

592 CE

What are the entry timings of Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda?

10:00 am to 4:00 pm

What is the entry ticket price for Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda?

¥400. Children under 12 not allowed in the pagoda.

Jizo of Kamakura Hase-Dera

This is the second part of my day tour of Kamakura. I spent the early part of the day basking in the glory of the great Kamakura Daibutsu. That concluded my bucket-list of visiting all the three most-revered Buddha Temples in Japan. The first one obviously being the Great Buddha of Todai-ji and the other – the Takaoka Daibutsu.

For those who didn’t read the first part of my story, I traveled for more than 4 hours today, all the way from Nara in Kansai, on the train, to visit the Kamakura Daibutsu and then, if time permitted spend some time at the Kamakura Hase-dera.

Once I had my fill of capturing photos of the monumental bronze statue of Kamakura Buddha at the peaceful Kōtoku-in, I made my way down to the lovely garden of Kamakura Hase-dera.

About Kamakura Hase-dera

Hase-dera, commonly known as the Hase-kannon (長谷観音) is one of the popular Buddhist temples in the city of Kamakura in Kanagawa Prefecture. It is located in southwestern Kamakura, nestled seamlessly within the hills of the valley. Its official name is Kaikozan Jishoin Hasedera, but people generally refer to it as just Hase-dera. Halfway up the Kamakura mountain, its main hall houses one of the world’s largest wooden statue of Kannon, the real reason for my interest.

Before I delve deeper into the history of Hase-dera, I must clarify that there are two Hase-dera temples by the same name. The one famous for its Ajisai gardens lies in Nara in the Kansai region. To be clear, I will refer to the temple in Kamakura as Kamakura Hase-dera.

Kamakura Hase-dera is also famous for its “Ajisai” or hydrangeas that blossom every May and June during Japan’s monsoon season. During these times queues to enter the temple grounds often swell with wait times of up to two hours. The temple originally belonged to the Tendai sect of Buddhism, but eventually became an independent temple of the Jōdo shū. Local folklore suggests the inception of the temple in the Tenpyō era (729-749 C.E.). However, documents at the temple suggest that the temple really came into its own during the Kamakura period (1192-1333).

Sammon Gate at Kamakura Hase-dera

Kamakura Hase-dera is not far from the Kōtoku-in and it didn’t take me long to reach the temple gate, also known as the Sammon Gate. The entrance fee is ¥300 per head for adults. The temple has a simple exterior with a symbolic large red lantern hanging from the age-old gate.

Kamakura Hase-dera Temple grounds

Once inside the temple, I was greeted by a relaxing landscape of vibrant greens, with the tranquil sound of the water flowing in the ponds. Summer flowers were in bloom. They add a nice touch to the heritage site. An array of circular paths surround the ponds at the base and lead up to the stone stairs, which take you up the mountain.

The Hase-dera temple complex is a large area. Built into the Kamakura mountain there are several buildings to check out. I am posting the local official map below for assistance.

I was a bit short on time so I didn’t visit all of them but I did get the pictures of most. Kamakura Hase-dera is most popular for its wooden Kannon statue measuring 9.18 meters tall. So I started to make my way up the stairs towards the main hall.

Along the path I found this very cute ensemble of three Jizo statues. The charming statue is sure to warm your heart. The idols reminded me of a tiny stone-carved Jizo, I found about a year back while ony wanderings around Arashiyama.

According to religious beliefs, Jizo is a Buddhist deity believed to protect unborn children and give prosperity to one’s descendants. This statue in particular is known as Ryo-en Jizo (Jizo of good match). For the photographically inclined enthusiast, it is one of the most photographed spot on the temple grounds.

This route also features a beautifully carved rock lantern, quite similar to the ones in Nara, which are lit during the time of festivals in Summer.

Jizō-Do at Kamakura Hase-dera

My first stop was at the Jizo-do Hall. It lies midway, up the stairs, on the way to the main hall. This sacred area is dedicated to Jizo, the patron protector of children.

Re-incarnation is a central tenet of Buddhism, and parents who endure miscarriages, still-births, or abortions often donate a statue in the likeness of Jizo to ensure a safe passage to the next life for their unborn child.

Also known as Kshitigarbha in the ancient Sanskrit language, the Jizo is represented in the guise of a Buddhist monk, devoid of the crown and jewels were customarily worn by bodhisattvas.

The word Jizō is literally translated to as “Womb of the Earth”, for JI 地 means earth, while ZŌ 蔵 means womb. Jizō is one of Amida Buddha’s main attendants and, like Kannon, is one of the most popular modern deities in Japan’s Amida Pure Land (Jōdo 浄土) sects.

Just outside the Jizo Hall, you can see countless jizo statues carved in stone. It is estimated that over 50,000 Jizo statues have been donated to Hase-dera since the end of World War II. Most of these statues only remain in the temple for about a year, before being removed to make way for newer statues.

I went up close to catch the details of the stone carvings. Near the hall, you can also find the Mizukake Jizo (water-pouring Jizo). It is believed that one can purify one’s mind by gently pouring water over the statue.

Continuing up the stairs, I reached the Shoro Belfry. According to local tradition, this giant bell is rung 108 times on new years eve to dispel the 108 sufferings of humanity according to Buddhism.

Next to the belfry you will find the Kannon-do and Amida-do halls. The bigger of these halls – the Kannon-do houses the wooden statue of Kannon, said to be one of the largest wooden structures in the world. But first I stopped to check out the Amida Hall.

Amida-do Hall at Kamakura Hase-dera

The Amida Hall lies right next to the Kannon Hall, The hall houses a 2.8 meter tall golden statue of the Amida Buddha. Amida or Amitābha as it is known in Sanskrit, is a celestial Buddha according to the scriptures of Mahayana Buddhism. It is the principal Buddha in Pure Land Buddhism.

According to historical records, this sacred depiction of the Buddha was commissioned by the first shogun of Japan, Minamoto no Yoritomo, in 1194.

Kannon Statue at Kamakura Hase-dera

After paying my respects at the Amida-do, I was finally at my destination. I removed my shoes and went inside. The gate leads into a dimly-lit large hall. Photography is not allowed inside the main hall. A sublime smell of incense sticks surrounds the hall.

Inside the hall there was pin-drop silence, one cannot even hear the chirping of the birds. I found myself standing in front of the revered Kannon statue. The idol itself is made from camphor wood and gilded in gold. It has 11 heads, each of which represents a different phase in the search for enlightenment.

The Hase-dera Kannon statue has an interesting mythology surrounding its origin. Known by the name of Avalokiteśvara in ancient sanskrit, Kannon is the bodhisattva associated with compassion and mercy. The main statue of Kannon is one of the largest wooden statues in Japan.

According to legend, this statue is one of two statues of Kannon that were carved together by a monk named Tokudo Shonin in 721 CE.

The pious monk discovered a mammoth camphor tree in the mountain forests near the village of Hase in the Nara region. The camphor tree was so large, that he decided that he could have two statues carved from it. The one he commissioned to be carved from the lower part of the truck was enshrined in Hase-dera Temple near Nara, which was part of the then Yamato Province. He didn’t know what to do with the other. So he set it adrift in the sea, for it to find the place with which it had a karmic connection.

According to local folklore, some fifteen years later on a stormy night in 736 CE, the statue washed ashore at Nagai Beach on the Miura Peninsula not far from Kamakura.

It is said, that year Kamakura was ravaged by a terrible storm. Winds hissed with fury and dark waves reared their angry crests, some as high as mountains surrounding Kamakura itself. When the tempest was at its height, the figure of the goddess was discovered floating upon the billows. The statue was immediately brought to Kamakura where a temple was built to honor it.

Next to the Kannon-do there is also a small museum dedicated to Kannon. The museum exhibits materials related to the ‘Goddess of Mercy’ as well as some other Buddhist artifacts of note.

Right in front of the Museum, beneath the branches of a venerable tree, sits a stone figure of extreme antiquity, depicting Buddha in the Dharmachakra Mudra. Carved in stone and set up on a hexagonal base, it sits among the lush green garden surrounded by 4 bronze statues of Devas (Heavenly) Kings.

Let’s take a closer look at the stone Buddha’s posture – the Dharmachakra Mudra. Dharmachakra, in Sanskrit, means the wheel of Dharma. The Dharmachakra mudra represents the setting into motion of the wheel of the teaching of the Dharma. As the gesture is performed with the hands held in front of the left side of the chest, or in front of the heart, the Dharmachakra mudra also represents the teachings are straight from the Buddha’s heart.

Also known as the Chaturmaharaja, the four heavenly kings are the protectors of the world and fighters of evil, each being able to command a legion of supernatural creatures to protect the Dharma.

Viewpoint

After taking a bunch of photos, I took a break at one of the tables near the Observation deck near the Kannon Hall. The temple sits about half-way up Mount Kamakura and the observation deck commands an impressive view over the Sagami Bay and the Kamakura valley.

After the long hike, if you’ve managed to work up an appetite, there is a full-service restaurant called “Kaio-kan” nearby. After an energizing break, I was ready to visit the cave at the base of the temple.

As I mentioned at the start, the temple is built on two levels and includes a cave on the northern side of the mountain. The cave, called Benten kutsu, consists of small winding tunnels with a low ceiling, connecting rooms with various statues of Benzaiten. The Benzaiten is a sea goddess and the only female of the Seven Gods in Japanese mythology.

I walked down the same set of stairs and turned towards the left at the base. Before you hit the cave, you find the Daikoku-do Hall. The original statue of Daikokuten, which was carved in 1412, is the oldest of its type in Kanagawa Prefecture (exhibited only on special occasions). The current enshrined Daikokuten is believed to give success in life and business.

Benten-do Hall at Kamakura Hase-dera

Fukutoku-benzaiten, known as the Goddess of music and wisdom is enshrined inside this hall. It is believed to dispel misfortunes and to give answers to prayers for developing technical skills. The Shonan area of Kamakura and Enoshima have a special relationship with the goddess and there are a lot of sites bearing her name.

Records suggest that Kobo Daishi carved this statue with his bare hands when he stayed on the temple grounds in the Heian era(794-1185).

Benten-kutsu Cave at Kamakura Hase-dera

Hase-dera’s intense dedication to the goddess can be found carved into the mountain.

After passing through the Torii gates that mark the entry to the caves, I found myself in a bit of an eerie surrounding. According to legend, these caves were carved by the founders of the Hase-dera many centuries ago, but I couldn’t find anything corroborating on the Wiki pages.

This is believed to be the place where Kobo Daishi, the Japanese Buddhist saint practiced in seclusion. Benzaiten and her followers of the Sixteen Children are chiseled out of the rock walls in one of the chambers inside the cave.

Each of the statues is linked via tunnels inside the Benten-kutsu cave. It’s a mysterious feeling, with dimly lit bulbs. At times with no one nearby, I cannot deny that I felt a little creeped-out.

Be warned however, especially for the tall visitors out there, the ceiling can get REALLY low at points and you might have to drop to your hands and knees if you’re not flexible.

It would take about half an hour at leisurely pace to fully explore the caves. As I came outside I found another cute jizo. As with most Buddhist temples, the grounds close around 5:00 PM.

In all, it was an inspirational day in Kamakura. I still had a 4-hour journey ahead of me – going back to Nara. Do note that this temple is also popular for its Ajisai, that bloom in the monsoon months. I was lucky to experience the Ajisai bloom in Nara Hase-dera.

It was a peaceful ride back home, staring at the lush green landscape of rural Kanagawa. I spent the time mostly listening to music and going over the pictures I took on the day.

In my opinion, a day tour is enough to explore both Kamakura Daibutsu & the Hasedera temple. Both are extremely exciting heritage sites with a plethora of mythical stories associated with them.

Thanks for reading. I look forward to your reviews and questions. If you are looking to explore more of the Kansai region, follow my story as I capture the iconic Yasaka-no-tou Pagoda during one of the lovely evenings in Kyoto.

When was Hase-dera temple built?

736 C.E

Who built Hase-dera?

Tokudō Shōnin

How to reach Hase-dera Temple

10-min walk from Hase Station on the Enoshima Dentetsu Line

Opening Hours / Holidays

March – September
08:00 – 17:30 (last entry at 17:00)

October – February
08:00 – 17:00 (last entry at 16:30)

Admission fee (Updated 23-05-2020)

Adults 400 yen, Children 200 yen

Important Cultural Events at Kamakura Hase-dera

*Dates might differ from year to year.

The great Buddha of Kamakura

Today I went to visit the Great Buddha of Kamakura. It is a monumental outdoor bronze statue of Amitabha Buddha at the Kōtoku-in Temple in Kamakura of Kanagawa Prefecture. According to temple records, the statue dates from around 1252 CE, in the Kamakura period. It is now designated as a National Treasure of Japan.

My JR Pass was still active. The train pass has been incredibly helpful for travelling to faraway places in Japan without incurring much expenses. I stay in Nara, which is almost 500 km away from Kamakura – but armed with my JR Pass – not too far away!

The ride from Nara to Kamakura

The weather had been gentle in the last week. Rains had kept away for most of the time but there was a strong haze around, hiding away any chance of blue skies. I left my dorm at about 8 am -ish and walked all the way to JR Nara Station. From Nara I took the local Nara line to Kyoto. From Kyoto, I boarded the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to Shin-Yokohama Station.

From the Shin-Yokohama Station, I had to take the local to Yokohama Station, which is about 4 stops and then to Kamakura Station. I had been in the area before, so even though I had to change a few trains, I didn’t face any problems on the way.

From Kamakura Station, I caught the Enoden train (a shortened form of the actual Japanese name “Enoshima Dentetsu”) that connects Kamakura to Enoshima. The train looks more like a tram or a street car. You can buy tickets for the train at the ticket vending machine.

I have a thing for trains and it was incredibly nostalgic boarding one of the older train models during this visit to Kamakura. It was a Thursday and yet the train was fully occupied. I wonder what happens on weekends.

I got down at Hase Station(pronounced Ha-say) , which is located closest to the Kamakura Daibutsu and Hase-dera. Overall, it took me about 4 hrs to finally reach my destination. Hase is the most popular station on the Enoden line, and also the busiest. At any day of the week, you will find a number large tour groups, making their way to the heritage temple.

Please note that the Enoshima Dentetsu line is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass.

If you do take this ride, then you can purchase the one day pass which costs about ¥600. If you are only planning to go and come back, the single ride tickets costs ¥190 each way.

Kōtoku-in

Although people generally refer to it as Kamakura Buddha, the temple that houses the age-old statue is known as Kōtoku-in. It is a Buddhist temple of the Jōdo-shū sect. The temple is not very far away from the Hase Station. Buses are available from the Hase Station, but I generally prefer to walk over small distances.

Nio-mon Gate of Kotoku-in

After a quick walk for about 10 minutes I found myself at the Niomon gate of Kōtoku-in. The temple gate holds a plaque inscribed with Kōtoku-in ’s official name “Daii-san.” Originally, the gate was not constructed here. It was moved together with the pair of Nio statues, enshrined inside the gate, from another location. After the damages from the 1498 earthquake, it was reconstructed in the beginning of the 18th century.

The Niomon Gate has two Nio guardians guarding the temple. If you like to read in-depth on Nio Guardians, please read my research on the aggressive looking temple guardians.

A few steps inside you can find the ticket office. The admission tickets cost ¥600 per person.

“Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages – This is the Temple of Buddha and the gate of the eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence.“

A notice at the entrance to the grounds reads …

The first structure that you encounter as you enter the temple premises is the Chōzuya.

A chōzuya is a Shinto water-filled stone basin for the ceremonial purification rite known as temizu. Wooden dippers are usually available to worshipers for washing their hands, mouth and finally the handle of the water ladle to purify themselves before approaching the main Shinto shrine. This symbolic purification is normal before worship and all shrines have this facility. After washing my hands, I went forth towards the monumental statue.

History of Kamakura Daibutsu

The Great Buddha of Kamakura (Daibutsu in Japanese) is a monumental outdoor bronze statue of Amida Buddha. Seated serenely in the grounds of
Kōtoku-in, a Buddhist temple of the Pure Land sect, the Great Buddha is one of the iconic images of Japan.

With a height of 13.35 meters, it is the third largest seated Buddha statue in Japan. Showa Daibutsu in Aomori is the tallest at 21.35 meters. The most popular Great Buddha at Todai-ji in Nara comes second at a height of 14.98 meters.

How Kamakura Buddha came into being?

The current Bronze statue was preceded by a giant wooden Buddha. That wooden statue was damaged by a storm in 1248, along with the hall containing.

The Kamakura period (1185–1333) is a period of Japanese history that marks the governance by the Kamakura shogunate, officially established in 1192. When the Great Buddha Statue of Todaiji in Nara Prefecture was reconstructed in 1195, Yoritomo Minamoto, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate, participated the inauguration together with his wife Masako.

Seeing the colossal statue, he felt an obsession to build a matching one in Kamakura to demonstrate his power. But his wish never came true as he died four years later in 1199.

Yoritomo’s court lady named Inada (Inada-no-Tsubone) , however, tried to materialize Yoritomo’s wish. She obtained an approval from Masako to go ahead with the project and asked Priest Joko, to travel across the country in search of donations.

According to chronicles of the Kamakura shogunate, work on building the Great Buddha at Kōtoku-in began in 1238. Lady Inada (Inada-no-Tsubone) and the Buddhist priest Jōkō of Tōtōmi,deserve special mention as it was due to their special efforts in raising the funds that the construction of the statue was made possible. The wooden statue was finally completed in 1243 CE.

It was a time when Kamakura was the capital of Japan and the commencement of the statue in brought much joy to the shogunate. The military rulers of Japan embraced Buddhism and established many temples around their new capital to provide spiritual sustenance for the elite and the samurai warriors who served them.

The Kamakura period rearranged the landscape and gave birth to Buddhism for the commoner. It is this period that we see the spread of Buddhism among the illiterate commoner and a new spirit of realism in religious imagery. The period gave birth to new and reformed Buddhist movements — Pure Land, Zen, and Nichiren — devoted to the salvation of the common people.

Unfortunately, it was completely wrecked by a violent storm in 1247. Priest Joko put forward the idea of the stutue to be recreated in bronze. Five years later in 1252, thanks again to the fund-raising campaign by Lady Inada and Priest Joko, construction of a new statue, not a wooden but bronze one this time, began with caster Hisatomo Tanji and Goro-emon Ono.

It took them more than a dozen years to finish up. The Great Buddha Statue we see today in the Temple is the one made at that time, though the exactly time of completion remains obscure. Distinct from the statue in Todaiji is that the Statue here was built totally with the funds donated by the devotees and well-wishers, with no government or official aid whatsoever.

The bronze Buddha was originally covered in gold and housed in the Great Buddha Hall, or Daibutsuden, but the structure was damaged by typhoons in 1334. It was rebuilt only to be completely damaged yet again by another storm in 1369. The last building housing the statue was washed away in the tsunami of September 20, 1498 resulting from the Meiō Nankaidō earthquake, during the Muromachi period.

The newly constructed building was severely damaged once more. But, the Statue was all right. Back at the time, the government was no longer in Kamakura but in Kyoto under the Ashikaga Shogunate and they didn’t provide any funding for re-building the hall. Since then, the Great Buddha has remained seated in open air.

Exploring the Kamakura Daibutsu

The Amida Buddha sits in the dhyana mudra. Dhyana mudra involves using a gesture where the hands are placed on the lap, the right hand on top of the left one, palms facing upward. In Buddhism, this mudra is dispalyed with the tips of the thumbs touching. This shape of a triangle represents the three jewels of Buddhism: Buddha, sangha (community) and dharma (teachings).

To commemorate Lady Inada’s contribution, there is a cenotaph dedicated to her, standing in the courtyard.

The statue is hollow, and visitors can view the interiors. You can take a short walk through the opening to the right of the Buddha and walk up a set of stairs to check out the dimly lit hollowed feet and chest area.

The inside is a tight space and only a few people can cram inside to explore the tiny room, but it is full of extra tidbits on the construction and maintenance of the otherworldly structure. From inside, you can see the giant plates of bronze layered underneath using a technique called ikarakuri. Some visitors have also left graffiti on the inside of the statue.

The Great Buddha is seated in the lotus position with his hands forming the Dhyani Mudra, the gesture of meditation. With a serene expression and a beautiful backdrop of wooded hills, the Daibutsu is a truly spectacular sight.

Behind the Great Buddha sit four bronze lotus petals. These were cast in the mid-Edo period (1603–1867) with the intention of creating a lotus pedestal for the Great Buddha. Though the original plan was to cast 32 petals, only four were actually completed. The donator’s name are inscribed on the front of each petal.

The most recent restoration work was undertaken early this year.

Warazori (traditional Japanese straw sandals)

On the inside wall of corridor to the right facing the Great Buddha rest a pair of huge warazori weighing about 45 kilograms each – a gift from the Matsuzaka Children’s Club of Hitachi-Ota City in Ibaraki Prefecture. The warazori were first woven and donated by the children in 1951, at a time when Japan was still recovering from the ravages of World War II. The warazori were created with the wish that “the Great Buddha would don them to walk around Japan, bringing happiness to the people.”

The Matsuzaka Children’s Club have kept this tradition alive to this day: since 1956, they have continued to make these giant warazori and present them to Kōtoku-in once every three years.

In the mid-19th century, artist Ando Hiroshige (1797–1858), who produced some of Japan’s most famous woodblock printed landscapes, paid homage to the image with a print, naming it after one of the later temple halls of the
Kōtoku-in, the Shojosen-ji. Later in the century, British writer Rudyard Kipling visited Japan and was so awed by the sculpture that he penned a poem dedicated to the Buddha at Kamakura.

While walking back I caught this final image of the bronze statue that brings in millions of believers each year.

Overall, it is a nice place to visit if you are looking to spend some time among old heritage structures. I would recommend that you visit the temple on weekdays. Weekends are extremely crowded.

Thanks for reading. I look forward to your reviews and questions. If you are looking to explore more of the Kanto region, follow my story as I visit the Hase-dera Temple in Kamakura .

*updated June 1, 2020

When was the Great Buddha of Kamakura created?

1252 CE

What is the total height of Great Buddha of Kamakura?

The bronze statue measures 13.35 metres or 43.8 ft tall.

Where is the biggest Buddha in Japan?

The Great Buddha of Kamakura is the third largest seated Buddha in all of Japan. Showa Daibutsu in Aomori is the tallest at 21.35 meters. The most popular Great Buddha at Todai-ji in Nara comes second at a height of 14.98 meters.

What is the admission fees for temple visit?

300 Yen

What are the temple visiting hours?

8:00 a.m – 5:00 p.m.
Tickets will be sold until 4:45 p.m.

What is the official website for Kamakura Buddha?

https://www.kotoku-in.jp/en/

The lovely Fukuyama Castle

After a quick visit to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial I was on my back to Nara. It was still early in the day, so on the way, I decided to drop in at Fukuyama Station to explore the castle. I always used to adore this lovely castle from the comfort of my seat on the Shinkansen, when it used to stop at the Fukuyama Station. Today I finally get to explore it!

Fukuyama Castle was built in 1619 by the feudal lord Mizuno Katsunari, a younger cousin of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the shogun who unified Japan and established the Edo Shogunate. The castle is located in central Hiroshima Prefecture and is a leisurely stroll away from the conveniently located JR Fukuyama Station, which also happens to be a stop on the Shinkansen line.

It was around 3 pm when I got down at the Fukuyama Station. It is a sweet box-shaped, two-storeyed building.

In front of the station you will find a small garden dedicated to different colored roses.

Just beside the station there lies a statue of Izura Shojin – which basically means five cove fisherman. The statue was modeled upon by a local fisherman known as Tenshin Okakura, a fisherman. The statue is a popular work of Hiraku Kushidanaka, a sculptor and honorary citizen of Fukuyama City.

The Castle lies on the other side, so I went back inside the station building searching for the other exit. The station may not look big from the outside but it houses many souvenir and cake shops.

The first thing I noticed as I exited from the back of the JR Fukuyama Station is this huge Information board. This detailed map of Fukuyama Castle Park helps immensely to plan your walk.

A flight of stairs just next to the information board leads to the Castle Park, but I decided to go via the alternate route hoping to cover some extra area of the Park. The stone wall you see beside the stairs is the Sannomaru ( the castle’s third outermost enclosing wall).

As I moved towards the secondary gate I passed by a narrow stream that may have been a moat surrounding the Fukuyama Castle Park.

Withing a few minutes I found the side entrance. A short staircase surrounded by blooming flowers led me towards the Fukuyama Castle Park.

The stairs led me to this small wooden gate. I am not sure if it has any historical significance. With not a soul around, it was impossible to get any local information.

Just after the wooden gate I found myself on the premises of the castle park. There are benches are regular intervals. There are about 500 cherry trees at the castle grounds and thousands come to view the cherry blossoms when they bloom from late March to mid-April.

History of Fukuyama Castle

As you walk around the castle’s grounds and explore Fukuyama Castle Park you will come across many of its original ruins including the Castle gates and turrets. Sanzouinari Shrine, Bingogokoku Shrine, Fukuyama Museum of Literature and Fukuju Hall are also within a few steps of the castle’s grounds. Fukuju Hall has a pond, a teahouse, and beautiful garden that you can walk around. It’s also a great opportunity to take a seat, relax, and enjoy the towering view of Fukuyama Castle. Wandering around the park, I first arrived at the Sujigane Gomon Gate of Fukuyama Castle.

Sujigane Gomon Gate

Below is a close-up capture of the rivets and the iron work on the Sujigane Gomon Gate. Most of the structures at the castle were destroyed in the air raids of World War II in 1945. Sujigane Gate is one of the two structures to have survived the ravages of time.

From the stone gate, I reached out to the main keep. Fukuyama Castle, also referred to as Hisamatsu Castle, is a five-story (six-level) castle. It is considered one of the renowned castles of the Edo period The history of Fukuyama Castle dates back to 1619 CE when the feudal lord Mizuno Katsushige became the ruler of the Bingo-Fukuyama domain, then known as Fukuyama Province.

The castle was built on a hill on the Fukuyama plain and it was the capital of Bingo Fukuyama Han. Construction of the castle was commenced in 1622 during the Genna era. The newly commissioned structure presented a grand sight with 6 floors with surrounding turrets and palace like residential elements. It used to be surrounded by double moats which provided an inlet to the Seto Inland Sea.

Many of the materials and buildings used to construct Fukuyama Castle were transferred from Fushima Castle in Kyoto under direct orders from Tokugawa Ieyasu.

The Fushimi Yagura of Fukuyama Castle

The beautiful castle turret (yagura in Japanese) managed to escape the destruction of not one, but two castles… Originally the yagura was built as part of the Fushimi Castle in Kyoto (hence its current name “Fushimi Yagura”). But after the castle was demolished by order of the Tokugawa shogun, the turret was dismantled and relocated here, in Fukuyama, becoming part of the newly constructed castle. Fushima Turret is listed as Important Cultural Property of Japan.

The Tsukimi Yagura of Fukuyama Castle

Katsunari was well known as a very brave general and his subjects called him “Oni-Hyuga” which means “the demon of Hyuga.” Apart from being brave, he also carried out flood control projects and looked after the castle towns prosperity. Since the 17th century it has played an important role in Japanese history and was one of the greatest castles of the Edo period.

The Mizuno clan maintained control over the castle from its construction until 1700. Thereafter the Castle passed through the hands of several feudal lords.

The Castle managed to survive the widespread demolition of castles that took place during the Meiji Restoration, but 77 years later most of its buildings were destroyed during the US bombings of World War II . In August 1945 most of the castle’s remains that were not destroyed during World War II were demolished.

Disintegration of Fukuyama Castle

As time passed, Fukuyama Castle fell into disrepair after being abandoned and was eventually destroyed in a fire, but in 1966 the castle’s keep, observation tower, and tea house were all reconstructed. As the castle was being constructed, elements of Fushimi Castle in Kyoto that escaped destruction during the war such as the Fushimi observation tower and Sujitetsu-Omon gate were moved to Fukuyama Castle, allowing visitors to enjoy these national historic treasures even today.

The castle tower was also reconstructed in 1966 and opened as the Fukuyama Castle Museum, exhibiting articles and materials of successive feudal lords. The museum also features genealogies explaining the relationship between the Mizuno and Tokugawa families.

It was late and Nara was still a long way off, so I started my walk back to Fukuyama Station. This time I took the main route that takes you right in front of the Station. Along the path there were many flowering plants that beautify the landscape.

I came down the very stairs beside the Sannomaru wall, that I had seen previously near the Map Board. Fukuyama Station is built within the walls of the castle. When planning the construction of the Sanyo Shinkansen line, it was determined that running through the castle’s inner moat would be the shortest route and so the station was constructed right next to the Sannomaru.

While waiting for the train, I caught a last glimpse of the Fukuyama castle from the train platform.

The train to Osaka had some time so I waited. Fukuyama Castle is one of the very few tenshu that survived the Meiji Restoration, however it suffered extensive damage from Allied attacks in World War II. The main tower was rebuilt in part, thanks to the donations from the local residents. Today the area around Fukuyama Castle contains a park, a history museum, an art museum and other facilities, that help to spread the city’s history and culture.

Today the Castle is designated as one of the 25 National Historic Sites of Hiroshima and considered one of Japan’s Top 100 Castles from a list created by the Japanese Castle Foundation.

Thanks for reading. I look forward to your reviews and questions. If you are looking to explore more of the Chūgoku region check out my journal on the Torii of Itsukushima or follow my story as I visit the great Buddha of Kamakura. 

Fukuyama Castle is open from 9:30 am until 5:00 pm and costs 200 yen to enter for adults; students and children are free. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside the keep until you reach the top floor.

The top of Fukuyama Castle now serves as a viewing platform where those who climb to the top can get a look out over the whole area surrounding the castle. On the fifth and final floor you can venture outside on a balcony with 360 degree views. Here you can take pictures and enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of Fukuyama and its surroundings.

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