Journals

Warrior dolls of Aomori Nebuta Museum

Aomori Nebuta Matsuri is one of the largest Japanese festivals in the Tōhoku region. It is held every year at the beginning of August. Unfortunately I missed it by a whisker. However there is still a ray of hope for people like us if you visit Aomori during a different period of time, you can still enjoy a part of its beauty at the Wa Rasse Nebuta Museum.

The Wa Rasse Nebuta Museum in Aomori showcases some of the most spectacular Nebuta Floats from Aomori’s annual Nebuta Matsuri. The museum is a great place to learn about the world-famous festival and everything Nebuta. It walks the visitors through the history of Nebuta and it’s importance to Aomori City.

I took the early morning 6 am Komachi Shinkansen from Akita to Morioka and from there switched to the Hayabusa Shinkansen to Aomori. It took me about 3 hours for the full ride and I reached Aomori at 9.30 am. The museum is located at a short walk from the JR Aomori Station and opens at 8:30 am in the morning.

I bought my ticket at the admission booth for ‎¥600. The ground floor does not contain many exhibits and the space is taken up by a quaint restaurant and a few souvenir shops. Here, one can enjoy views of Mutsu Bay as they feast upon delicious seafood dishes prepared at Restaurant Den.

Up on the first floor I went past a red hallway, the walls adorned with photos and images from the Nebuta Matsuri’s 400 year history.

Beyond the hallways I found myself in a large, dimly lit hall where the colorful, brightly illuminated award-winning parade floats from this year’s festival were on display in all their splendor. These are replaced each year with new winners from that year. I walked around each of the floats admiring the craftsmanship that went into their construction.

A large screen on the wall displayed scenes from the just finished festival. In one of the corners of the hall, smaller components of the floats in wire frames were displayed on stands that visitors could touch and feel.

History of Nebuta Festival in Aomori

Nebuta Floats are generally created based on scenes from Kabuki, Japanese history and mythology or some popular current affairs. The Aomori Nebuta Festival is one of Japan’s most colorful festivals but it has had a rather chequered history. The festival began in the 1600’s during the Edo period and has been banned at various times in yesteryear mainly due to the fire hazard it represented during those times when candles were used to light the paper floats. Nowadays these floats make use of electric bulbs for illumination.

The floats themselves are believed to be the result of an amalgamation of several key elements in the Nara Period (710-794): ancient Tsugaru traditions, dolls, insect-repelling torches, the sending off of ancestral spirits, and the aforementioned Tanabata Matsuri. All of these customs were brought together in the form of lanterns, at a time when the use of paper, bamboo, and candles was becoming increasingly common in society. The lanterns would eventually come to depict human figures – the original Nebuta Matsuri floats.

The word Nebuta finds its roots in the Tanabata Matsuri. The lanterns that appeared during the festival processions were known by this name, and on the actual night of Tanabata itself (July 7), they were floated down rivers or the sea, serving as both a cleansing ritual and a prayer for good health. This custom was called nebuta-nagashi, and can be seen today in the form of Aomori Nebuta maritime displays.

Many contemporary Nebuta floats depict kabuki actors – a custom which most likely began in the Bunka Period (1804-1818), when folk art was at its peak. In the past, the nebuta were quite smaller and were created in every alley. In those times the festival was more of a personal enjoyment. A festive atmosphere filled the entire town, from one corner to the next. Nebuta floats grew even larger as Japan entered the Meiji Period (1868-1912). One particular Nebuta from Hamamachi in 1871 is said to have been about 20 meters tall (the reasons for which are unknown) and carried by a hundred people. During recent years however, both the schedule and course are set and the main purpose is to have a spectacular show, showcasing the floats to festival goers.

The incredible color, intricacy and the sheer size of the floats is mind-blowing. The Nebuta floats reminded my of the similar spirit during the celebration of goddess Durga in my hometown of Kolkata.

While the Nebuta Festival in Aomori is the biggest in the area, there are many other Nebuta festivals around. So when visiting Aomori during festival time, make sure to check out the festivals in the small towns, too. Every town has its own way of building these floats. The floats in Aomori are wide, the ones in Hirosaki they are not so wide, but higher. There are some floats that also have movable parts.

As I moved on towards the exit, there is a wall adorned with many Nebuta faces, all looking down on me with extreme fierceness.

It was time for me to head out towards my next stop at Yamadera Temple. Nebuta Festival is held every year in early August, but for those who can’t make it to the festival itself, Nebuta Museum Wa Rasse offers a glimpse into the experience all year-round. The museum is a fantastic place to see the floats live and up close without having to jostle for a place in the festival streets. On weekends and holidays, there are occasional performances by “Haneto” dancers who demonstrate the unique Nebuta Matsuri dance accompanied by live music played on Taiko drums and flutes. If you are in Aomori, I highly recommend a visit to the Wa Rasse Nebuta Museum.

Hike to Yamadera Temple

After witnessing the exhilarating warrior floats of Aomori Nebuta Museum, I began my journey towards Yamadera. The Hayabusa Shinkansen brought me to Sendai and from there I switched to the local train to Yamadera. Yamadera Station is about a 40-minute train ride from Sendai, Tohoku’s most happening city. The local train to Yamadera goes very slowly through the beautiful and thrilling mountainous territory. Many self-mummified monks trained among these mountains of Haguro, Gassan and Yudono. Their bodies still lie at these sacred sites, the locations of which are closely guarded by the locals. 

The train dropped me off at the Yamadera station at about 1 pm. From the small station, I walked straight towards the location of the temple entrance, across a small bridge, painted in traditional bright red, over the Tachiyagawa river. 

Multiple road signs on the street guided me towards the entrance of the temple grounds at the base of the mountain. I was on the clock and upon knowing I would have to climb 1,015 steps to reach the summit of Risshaku-ji Temple, I was a bit circumspect if I would be able to make it back in time to catch the next train to Yamagata. Trains are far apart scheduled at intervals of an hour. So it is important to plan your ascent and descent so you don’t have to wait for an extra hour for the train to come along.

The street in front of narrow temple entrance is lined with restaurants serving local delicacies. You can also find some souvenir shops in the vicinity. The area is named after the common name of the temple of Risshaku-ji (立石寺), founded in 860 AD by the priest Ennin, who is better known in Japan by his posthumous name, Jikaku Daishi. Though the temple’s official name is Risshaku-ji, locals refer to it simply as Yamadera – which means “mountain temple.”

From the narrow entrance path I turned left towards the Sanmon, entrance gate. Along the way I passed a lovely statue of the respected poet Matsuo Bashou. 

Just beyond the statue of Matsuo Bashou on the right lies the Nenbutsudo temple with a bell tower beside it.

The History of Yamadera

I bought my tickets for ￥300 at the Sanmon (山門), entrance gate and started my ascent.

The Buddhist temple better known as Yamadera, was founded in the 9th century by the Tendai school by the Buddhist teacher Ennin. The temple complex was founded to oversee and assist in the growth of Tendai Buddhism sect in the northern Tohoku region. The temple enshrines Yakushi Nyorai – the Buddha of healing and medicine. From the entrance, along the trail there are more than 30 small sacred structures. Legend has it that climbing the long road and paying homage at the temples will break your bad luck. I also noticed a few teenage visitors hopping on one leg, making their way up to the temple. I am not sure but maybe its a local practice.

After several centuries of prosperity, the temple was partially destroyed in early 16th century during the chaotic Sengoku era. It was later rebuilt in AD 1543 under the monk Enkai. For over a hundred years, its popularity was gradually lost but it shot back to fame in 1689, when Matsuo Bashou, the famous haiku master, stayed in this remote place enchanted by its natural beauty. A place that inspired him to write his famous haiku “Ah this silence / sinking into the rocks / voice of cicada”. It describes how moved he was by hearing only the sound of a cicada echoing across the silent wood. A number of stone monuments bearing Basho’s words line the mountain path. 

Just like on my hikes to Wakakusayama and other places, the descending hikers offered nods of encouragement to us, making their way up, with a smiling “konnichiwa” as they passed.

As I climbed the small steps higher and higher I found many small shrines, stone statues and carvings. 

The religious complex is composed of about thirty structures. One of the most important cultural asset is the Heian period seated wooden image of Yakushi Nyorai (the Buddha Bhaisajyaguru). Apart from it, Yamadera holds many other important cultural assets in its treasure-house, the Hihokan, including standing wooden idols of Shaka Nyorai, Yakushi Nyorai and Amida Nyorai, a seated wooden idol of Dengyo Daishi, a hanging wooden mandala of Buddha, and a stone monument of the Nyohō-kyō Sutra from 1144 AD. The Konpon-chudo Hall is said to house a Buddhist flame that’s been burning continuously for more than 1,000 years.

The ascent is easily accessible and I had no problems whatsoever tackling it. The stone trail consists of massive moss-covered boulders on either side. Among the luxuriant pines and cypresses trees, if one is lucky they can hear the cicadas chirping away happily.

On the way I paused for a while near the Midahora (弥陀洞), the cave of Amitabha, embedded with thousands of one-yen coins. I am not sure about its significance, but I assume it’s some kind of wishing thing, similar to wishing wells in Europe.

From the Midahora, I picked up my pace as I was almost near the top. In a few minutes I was at the Niomon Gate. The Niomon gate contains many stickers with names of people who have walked these steps.

Just after the Niomon Gate very close to the peak lies three other buildings: the Daibutsuden, Okunoin and Kaizando temples. Okunoin is the main temple hall but not the biggest draw of this place. Interestingly it is the small red building Nokyodo that attracts the most attention of the tourists including me. Indeed, Yamadera is best known for its impressive view of the Nokyodo over the valley.

Nokyodo of Yamadera

Before I even reached Okunoin hall, I was near the most photographed structure at Yamadera: the small red Nokyodo building. The Nokyodo is perfectly positioned to appear on the pictures of this splendid landscape. 

A nearby path takes visitors to the wooden observation platform, Godaido, which gives incredible views of the surrounding Yamagata countryside. The Godaido Observatory is definitely the best place to enjoy the beauty of the wide landscape. I didn’t have much time left for the next scheduled train, so I skipped the main hall, I started on my descent.

Yamadera is a good half-day stroll. The ascension is not difficult, and I was able to make my way to the base pretty quickly. On the way back to station I took a left from the Sanmon entrance gate that led me towards the Bakuman exit.

The place must look truly amazing during koyo in autumn when the leaves change colors to a brilliant red, but it’s not so bad during summers either. 

The biggest downside of this place, in my opinion is that there is only one train per hour, whether you come from Sendai or Yamagata. So your visit must be synchronized  perfectly with the railway timetable if you do not want to wait for long at the station. I thoroughly enjoyed the trip, specially the view from the summit, which was magnificent. The mountain hides withing itself many sacred shrines for the pilgrims, and an equally picturesque temples clinging to the steep rocky hillsides for the camera clicking tourists. The thousand step climb through the dense cedar trees is absolutely worth it, once you reach the top and the view the valley from there.

I grabbed a drink from the vending machine at the station. The hike in the dry weather had sapped me out. I sat for a few minutes before the train to Yamagata arrived and I was on my way.

Please leave a comment if you like my story or continue with me as I visit Tsuruoka to witness the mummified remains of Tetsuryou-kai.

The lady of Lake Tazawa

The beauty of Japan lies in its peaceful lakes, gardens and mountains. Today we head out to a mystical lake in Akita. Lake Tazawa is a caldera lake in the city of Semboku in Akita Prefecture. With a depth of 423 meters, it has the distinction of being the deepest lake in Japan, but more interestingly the lake finds a reference in the folklores of Tatsuko, a young maiden from In-nai, who wishing for everlasting youth and beauty, is said to have been cursed and turned into a dragon on the shores of this very lake. Today in her remembrance, a golden statue of Tatsuko created by Yasutake Funakoshi in 1968, stands at the edge of the lake with her back to the clear blue waters, a figure of purity, love and beauty.

Aomori to Tazawako

It was a beautiful sunny day. After a light breakfast at the hotel APA, we walked down to Aomori Station. APA Hotel is very conveniently located near the Matsu bay and the JR Aomori Station, and is highly recommended if you are staying in Aomori. 

From Aomori we took the 9 am Tsugaru Limited Express to Akita.  

The train was mostly empty all the way.

The journey takes around 2 hours and 45 minutes and runs through beautiful wooded mountains and endless farmlands.

It was 1 pm by the time we reached Akita. We dropped off our luggage at the Toyoko Inn, where we would be staying for the night in Akita, and then after a quick lunch, took the Akita Shinkansen Komachi to Tazawako Station. It takes about an hour to reach Tazawako Station from Akita.

At the Tazawako Station, the lady at the tourist information corner helped us buy round trip tickets on the Ugo Kotsu bus. The bus tickets costs 1200 Yen and it takes visitors on a scenic bus trip around the lake to three popular spots along the circumference of the huge lake. The bus runs at fairly regular intervals and we were at the lake-front in 20 minutes.

Lake Tazawa

Our first stop was the lake’s eastern viewing point which is surrounded by a big parking area. On the left one can find many shops, restaurants and rental bicycle stores. Across the road, on the other side, one can find the sightseeing boat pier. The sightseeing boats operate from late April to early November and taking visitors up to the Tatsuko statue and back. It was early afternoon yet the sun had disappeared behind thick clouds and a strong breeze followed.

We decided against the boat ride on the lake which at the moment looked pretty precarious in the strong winds. We spent some time walking along a narrow path by the lake watching some daredevils on water-mobiles jetting across the lake. In summer, the area is popular for water sports such as sail-boating and jet-skiing. Many outdoor leisure spots like a ski area and camping sites are close by. 

Lake Tazawa was named in the Meiji period when the mainland Japanese arrived here and settled in its surrounding foothills. However, the lake was known to the Ainu people long before, who named it Tapukopu which means “hill with a circular top.”

After some time, we went back to the bus stop and waited for the next bus as we munched on a snack of warm French fries from one of the local eateries. The buses come at regular intervals and we didn’t have to wait long before one came along.. The bus was somewhat full but we didn’t have any trouble getting us a couple of seats.

The golden statue of Tatsuko

After a short ride surrounded through dense cedar forest we were at Katajiri bus stop. The driver told us he would stay at the stop for 30 minutes. On this western shore, lies the fabled golden statue of Tatsuko, a legendary princess who was transformed into a dragon, for she wished for eternal beauty. After a short walk, we were there at the bronze statue of Tatsuko, where she stands in all her beauty – like a girl coming out of the blue waters of the lake.

There are many versions of this mysterious legend – perhaps no one knows the ‘original’ or ‘authentic’ version of it, because it has been orally passed down through generations.

Legend of Tatsuko

Tatsuko, a girl from In-nai area, was known for her beautiful appearance. Comprehending that her beauty would not last forever, she started to visit a nearby shrine at the foot of Mt. Okurasan. She would visit there dedicatedly, night after night to make this wish. Eventually on the 100th night, she finally received a message from the god of mercy, telling her to go north and find a holy spring. She told her to take a sip from that spring.

Tatsuko, left her home and traveled across the mountains. Finally, she found the holy spring that she was told about. Delighted, she took a sip as told in the message. As Tatsuko was drinking the water from the holy spring with her delicate hands, she felt more and more thirsty. She was drinking so breathlessly and mindlessly that she started to have her face to the water. Next moment, heavy clouds appeared over the mountains, bringing a thunderstorm. Soon, the pouring rain washed out everything and caused a landslide down to the lake. The lightnings were so blinding that Tatsuko couldn’t even see herself. When it finally calmed down, she saw her reflection in the water change as she turned into a dragon. 

The legend doesn’t stop here. It goes on as when Tatsuko had gone missing for way too long, her mother became anxious. She wandered into the mountains searching for her precious daughter. She went deeper and deeper into the mountains and finally, found the holy spring. She desperately called her daughter’s name. The calling was heard by Tatsuko, who had now become a dragon.

“Forgive me, Mother” she said. “Because I wished for the eternal beauty, now I became a dragon as a guardian of Lake Tazawa. I cannot return home with you. Instead, I will keep this lake abundant of fish, so you could have it every day to remember me. They are my offerings to you.”

Soon Tatsuko disappeared into the water. The poor mother was so agonized. She screamed at the misery of her only child and threw the burning torch into the lake. As the fire was instantly put out, the torch became black and soon turned into a school of fish – which we know as the Kunimasu. The Kunimasu trout almost went extinct some 70 years back. Prior to 1940 it was the main species of fish in Lake Tazawa. Sadly, most of the fish died in 1940 when a hydroelectric project made waters of Lake Tazawa highly acidic. Luckily about 100,000 kunimasu eggs were preserved and seeded into the Saiko Lake before the hydroelectric project construction fouled the waters of Tazawa, which just about saved it from going extinct.

The Dragon Lovers, Tatsuko & Hachirotaro

This legend also has a sequence which involves Tatsuko and another dragon from Lake Hachirogata, Hachiro-Taro, and a monk of Lake Towada. The story is called Legend of Three Lakes. It tells about the hunter Hachirotaro who was also turned into a dragon and lost a battle against a monk named Nansonobo at Towada lake, subsequently becoming the creator of Hachirogata lagoon in Oga peninsula. When Hachirotaro heard about the beauty of Lady Tatsuko he went to Tazawa lake to meet her. The two became lovers, but then Nansonobo, who also heard about the lady’s beauty, came to the lake as well and began a new battle with Hachirotaro, this time for Tatsuko. This time the winner was Hachirotaro and every winter he travels from Hachirogata lagoon to Tazawa lake to be with his lady-love. According to local belief, the reason why the lake doesn’t freeze in the winter is because of their love. Now the lagoon does not exist anymore, which they deduce to be that the two live together at Tazawa lake all year round. I have always loved to hear stories like these and I had a great time visiting the places that are refer to in them.

Ukigi shrine

Beside Tatsuko’s statue, lies the Ukigi shrine. The shinto shrine built of plain wood, juts out over Lake. It is uncertain when the shrine was built, but in 1769 the haiku poet and Chinese scholar Soshu Masuda named it Kansagu. Local people however prefer to call it “Katajiri Myojin” and worship the lady Tatsuko as a deity of fishermen’s good catch. The shrine symbolizes the love of Tatsuko and Hachirotaro and is known as a place to pray for love.

The bus stops here for about 30 minutes. We had a quick look around and then caught the same bus to our next and final stop to Goza No Ishi shrine.

Gozanoishi Shrine

By 4.30 we had reached Gozanoishi jinja mae bus stop. The northern end of the lake is popular for the Goza no Ishi Shrine. The lake looks most amazing from here. The breeze had pushed the gray clouds away and the sun was shining on us again.

Gozanoishi Shrine is now a symbol of Lake Tazawa. The striking red torii gate, facing one of the most picturesque viewpoints on the lake, is simply the most captured in photographs, just as much as the golden statue of Tatsuko on the western side of the lake.

Gozanoishi shrine is believed to bring beauty to those who pray there. The enshrined deity is lady Tatsuko. There are items related to the legend, such as the “katagashira water spring” whose water Tatsuko drank before becoming a dragon, or the “kagamiishi” which reflected her beautiful image. The shrine is thought to be built during Muromachi period.  It is said that when Lord of Satake came to Lake Tazawa in 1650, he had sat and rested on the bedrock in front. That is where the name, Goza No Ishi, comes from– “The rock where the great sat.”

We paid our respects at the shrine and then wandered around to the lovely red Torii listening to the lapping sound of the gentle waves. After taking some pictures, we went back to the waiting bus caught the bus.

We were back in Tazawako Station within half an hour or so. At the Tazawako Station, the Shinkansen wasn’t due for another hour. So, we just hung around the station for a bit. At 6 pm we caught the Akita Shinkansen Komachi to Akita.

It was late evening by the time we reached Akita. The Toyoko Inn Hotel was right next to the station building so we didn’t have to walk much. 

The bed at the hotel looked inviting after the long day.

Even though the gray skies dampened the stunning beauty of the Lake, we had an incredible time discussing the stories of Tatsuko. The majority of the lake’s waterside is wild and undeveloped and it imparts a sense of being in isolated in nature, away from concrete constructions. Hotels and rest houses are scattered along the shores of the lake if one wants to spend a night in natures lap. The deepest lake in all of Japan, the depth of its waters is reflected in the depth of the experience of visiting it. In addition to the wild and serene atmosphere of the lake itself, the iconic statue and her melancholy fate stirs the strings of the heart. 

An evening at Hirosaki Castle

After a lovely time at the Tambo Art fields, we set off for one of the most beautiful castles in Tohoku region. Hirosaki Castle (弘前城) is a hirayama-style Japanese castle constructed in 1611. The present tower however was rebuilt in 1810 in the late Edo period (1603-1867) after a fire destroyed the original in 1627. It was the seat of the Tsugaru clan, who ruled over Hirosaki domain in the Mutsu Province, now known as central Hirosaki in Aomori Prefecture.

Tambo Art Fields to Hirosaki

From Tamboato Station, we took the local to Onoekoko-Mae Station and from there another train on the Konan Line all the way to Hirosaki Station. It doesn’t take long to cover the distance, but the trains are scheduled at wide intervals and it was almost 5 pm by the time we reached Hirosaki Station. Originally opened in 1894, the present-day facilities at Hirosaki Station were completed in 2004. A bus terminal lies just outside of the train station.

Did you know: Besides rice, the Hirosaki region accounts for nearly a fifth of Japan’s apple production. They’re the best you’ll find in Japan, so enjoy some while you’re there.

Hirosaki is renowned for its agricultural produce. The Hirosaki area has been populated since the Heian Period (794 – 1185). The city has been renamed several times over the course of history. Its current name was adapted in 1808 from its former name, Takaoka. With its humid continental climate, summers in Hirosaki are hot, reaching a daily average of 23°C in August, while winters are mild in comparison.

The castle is open to visitors only from 9 am to 5 pm. But we were short on time on the next day and the castle grounds remains open till late, so we decided to go down anyway.

We love to walk, so from the station we walked down all the way to the Castle. If you are not in the mood for a walk, one can also take the 100-yen Dotemachi Loop Bus and get off at Shiyakusho-mae stop to reach the castle. That is the most convenient way to reach the castle, via the Otemon Gate located near the Hirosaki City Hall.

After a brisk walk, we reached the Sannomaru Otemon Gate in about 20 minutes. From the Sannomaru-Otemon-Gate, it’s another 10-minute walk to the castle across the vast Hirosaki Park.

The park surrounding the castle is open all round the year, but the castle itself is closed during the winter period from October 24th, until the end of March. Light was gradually failing as we walked past the Kitanokuruwa North Gate. Since it was way beyond 5 pm, we weren’t charged any admission fees for viewing the castle.

The Kitanokuruwa North Gate leads to a wide path surrounded by trees on both sides. The Hirosaki Park is home to over 2600 trees with over 50 different types of cherry trees. The Somei Yoshino cherry is the first to bloom every year, followed by the Shidarezakura (Weeping Cherry), then finally the Yaezakura (Double Layer cherry). The cherry blossoms at Hirosaki Castle are unique as each branch produces more flowering buds due to a special pruning technique.

History of Hirosaki Castle

Hirosaki Castle is a symbol of the city, and has a truly long history. During the late Sengoku period, Ōura Tamenobu was awarded 45,000 koku by Toyotomi Hideyoshi for his role in the Battle of Odawara in 1590. At the Battle of Sekigahara, he fought alongside Tokugawa Ieyasu, who subsequently rewarded him by making him lord of Hirosaki Domain increasing his revenues to 47,000 koku. In 1603, Ōura Tamenobu changed his name to Tsugaru and started work on Hirosaki Castle. He was the first of the Tsugaru feudal lords who established his rule over the Tsugaru area in the early 17th century. He died in 1607 and work on the castle was put on hold until his son Tsugaru Nobuhira restarted it in 1610.

The second lord, Tsugaru Nobuhira, completed the Hirosaki Castle in 1611. However, in 1627, the 5-story tenshu, was struck by lightning and destroyed by fire. They tried to rebuild the castle but were prohibited by the then prevailing law that forbid more than one Castle per Province. It was not until 1810, when the present 3-story structure was erected, but at the southeast corner, rather than the original southwest location. The new 3 level keep is actually just the renovated Ninomaru tasumi yagura watchtower. 

Hirosaki’s Moving Castle

After walking across the vast Hirosaki Park, we finally reached a small red bridge across a moat. 

From the pictures I had looked on the internet, this was the very bridge from where people usually capture the iconic view of Hirosaki Castle, with the diminutive castle perched on the corner of its motte, overlooking the hundreds of cherry blossom trees surrounding it. However, during our visit we couldn’t find the castle where it was supposed to be. As we went up the bridge to the top, I realized that the entire castle had been moved approximately 100 meters to the northeast.

I later found out that because of the deteriorating stone walls, the the 14.4-meter-high, 400-metric-ton structure, was placed on a wheeled sled and moved very slowly over a three-month period in autumn 2015. Work is currently going on to repair the walls and the tower should be returned to its original position in 2021. So if you are visiting before that, get prepared to be shocked like me.

Fun Fact: The tower was also moved in 1897 to restore collapsed stone walls. Those repairs was completed in 1915, almost exactly 100 years ago. I wonder how they did it.

Hirosaki Castle

We were finally in front of the petite castle. A wooden structure lies in front of the castle that provided me with a good viewpoint to capture the antique castle with the beautiful Iwate mountain in the background.

The current donjon of the castle was completed in 1811 by the 9th daimyō, Tsugaru Yasuchika. The structure is comparatively smaller than early Edo-period varieties of donjons, and it was built on a corner of the inner bailey on the site of a yagura, rather than the stone base of the original donjon. The small size was partly due to the restricted finances of the domain towards the end of the Edo period, but its location and design were also intended to alleviate concerns which might be raised by the Tokugawa shogunate should a larger structure be built. 

The Tsugaru clan held the castle until the Meiji Restoration when it was taken over by the government. With the Meiji Restoration and subsequent abolition of the han system, the Tsugaru clan surrendered the castle to the new Meiji government. In 1894, the castle properties were donated by the Tsugaru clan to the government for use as a park, which was then opened to the general public the following year. In 1898, an armory was established in the former Third Bailey by the IJA 8th Division. In 1906, two of the remaining yagura burned down.

In 1937, the remaining eight structures of the castle received protection from the government as “national treasures”. However, in 1944, during the height of World War II, all of the bronze in the castle, including roof tiles and decorations, were stripped away for use in the war.

In 1950, under the new cultural properties protection system, all surviving structures in the castle (with the exception of the East Gate of the 3rd Bailey) were named National Important Cultural Properties. In 1952, the grounds received further protection with their nomination as a National Historic Site. In 1953, after reconstruction, the East Gate of the 3rd Bailey also gained ICP status, giving a total of nine structures within the castle with such protection.

It was late, so we went back the same way passing the now illuminated Kitanokuruwa North Gate.

Hirosaki to Aomori

After a wonderful evening at the Hirosaki Castle grounds, we walked back to the station to catch the train to Aomori Station.

It was almost 9 pm by the time we reached Aomori Station. Luckily for us our Hotel was a just a couple of minutes away from the station. 

The stores had all closed by then and the streets wore a deserted look, so we went back to the hotel.

Hirosaki is one of my favorite castles. Even though the main keep is not very spectacular and there is less stonework compared to Osaka castle or Matsumoto castle, the building is unique. What it lacks in scale and grandeur, it makes up for in authenticity being a real Edo era castle and not a reproduction. The layout of the castle grounds and moats are perfectly preserved making it a unique experience. I sure hope to go down again if I am ever back in Japan during hanami. I had a really great time witnessing one of the more artistic castles and now for a good nights sleep 🙂 Tomorrow we leave for Akita.

Apart from Hirosaki castle, Aomori has many more interesting places to explore like the Wa-Rasse Museum, Aomori Bay and the monumental Showa Daibutsu. You can also go up the Aspam building to witness the beautiful city at night.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit the lovely lady of Tazawa lake.

Inakadate Tanbo Art

Today we head down to Inakadate to witness the interesting Tanbo Rice Art fields. Inakadate is one of the older places on Earth where rice cultivation was initiated. In 1993, in order to honor this 2000 year old history, the people of this quaint village started a rice field behind the town hall and created a picture of Mt. Iwaki using the paddy as a canvas. Since then each year, the villagers create a new graphic using colored paddy that attracts visitors from far lands to see this innovative art.

We woke up to a beautiful sunny day in Aomori. I was still under the spell of the magical sunset that swept us off our feet at the Matsu bay. The weather was cool and pleasant and we had a busy scheduled planned for the day. From the window of our Hotel APA, I could see the Aomori Bay Bridge in a distance.

After a light breakfast we walked down to Aomori Station. We took the Tsugaru Limited Express to Hirosaki Station.

The inside of Hirosaki Station was still decorated with Nebuta Floats. The Nebuta festival had just got over in Aomori. Its a very interesting festival. If you want you can check out my article on the history of Nebuta.

Hirosaki is also famous for its apples. If you like the raw fruit, there are many different apple products available at the local stores. Do try some when you are here.

After a bit of a wait, we took the bus to the Inakadate-mura Observation Platform.

The bus dropped us off at the Town Hall stop but it was mostly deserted and we had to hunt about a bit to find the venue. I guess most people don’t use the bus so they didn’t put up any signs nearby.

For 2016 the “Tanbo Art” is created under two themes. One is from NHK TV drama “Sanadamaru” at the first town hall venue and the other from the movie “Shin Godzilla” at the second venue.

Inakadate-mura Observation Platform

The First Tanbo Art
Design: NHK TV drama “Sanadamaru”
Location: Inakadate Town Hall

At the Castle tower, there is a 300 yen admission charge to get up to the observation deck and an additional 200 yen charge if you want to go the to topmost observation deck. The paddy field looks like just another field from below.

A small queue had formed for the elevator to the 4th Floor Observation Deck. On the viewing balcony, thankfully not many people were around and we got the front row experience. The rice paddy art uses various colored rice plants as paint on a rice-field canvas. The massive pictures are elaborately designed using perspective drawing methods to make them look their best when seen from the observation platform. Two huge fields lay before us with scenes for the Japanese drama Sanadamaru starring Masato Sakai. The television series follows the Sanada Maru, a fortification defended by Sanada Nobushige during the Siege of Osaka in 1615.

On the 4th floor one can purchase tickets for the 6th Floor Castle Tower but we were happy with what we saw from the lower deck and decided against it.

History of Inakadate Tanbo Rice Art

For over 2,000 years, people in the small town of Inakadate, Japan have grown rice. Unfortunately, growing rice was all the town was known for until 1993. In a near desperate attempt to generate attention and tourist revenue, the townspeople began working on a public art project.

With the paddy as a canvas, the villagers cultivated and used four different types of heirloom and modern strains of rice to create a giant picture in the field. To allow viewing of the whole picture, a mock castle tower 22 meters high was erected at the village office.

The village where this artistry started, Inakadate-mura, Aomori Prefecture, is celebrating their event’s 22nd anniversary. Initially, they used three different colored varieties of rice to create artwork of Iwaki Mountain with the phrase “Village of Rice Culture: Inakadate” in a rice paddy 54 meters long by 47 meters wide.

In 1993, the first work of art was only a depiction of a mountain, using a few colors. Since then, the town has become much more bold, even incorporating multiple fields to create a dramatic battle scene between a monk and a samurai. Each year the rice is planted and a new image is created. For the most part, the images reflect Japanese culture and traditions. However, in an attempt to draw more tourists to the town, the Mona Lisa was also attempted in 2003.

Every April, the villagers meet and decide what to plant for the year. Prior to planting, farmers sketch out the designs on computers to figure out where and how to plant the rice. In 2007, 700 people helped plant rice. In Inakadate, the fields used are approximately 15,000 square meters. Agreements between landowners have allowed for larger pictures to be created.

Since then, they have increased the canvas size while also attempting more difficult artwork, such as Leonardo da VINCI’s “Mona Lisa” and KATSUSHIKA Hokusai’s “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji.” This year, they have planted rice of five different colored varieties in a huge rice paddy 143 meters long by 104 meters wide. This summer, artwork resembling “Ushiwaka and his subordinate Benkei.” (famous historical figures) is expected to appear.

The main purpose behind the creation was to take advantage of the tradition of manual work in rice cultivation to give people an opportunity to learn more about rice farming and agriculture. For the first nine years, the farmers created a simple picture of Mount Iwaki before going to more complex designs.

By embracing its agricultural past, and adding a little 20th-century technological know-how, Inakadate was able to create massive living art, made out of colored rice stalks. Called Tanbo (Paddy) art, the designs are wondrous. Spanning entire fields, the rice paddy art takes 1,200 people from the community and $35,000 to create. But the end result is an amazing multi-colored design, stretching hundreds of feet and featuring incredible detail.

Following Inakadate’s example, other villages such as Yonezawa in Yamagata prefecture, have started to create their own tanbo art.

To provide the full effect for the designs, the town invested in a small 20 meter observation deck in front of the fields. On the tiny deck, 200,000 visitors per year come to marvel at the artistic fields. Given the success of the project in Inakadate, other rural Japanese towns have followed suit, creating other Tanbo art in a similar fashion, incorporating words and pictures to add flavor to their work.

Once we had our fill of the creative ideas of the Aomori residents, we walked down to the shuttle stop from where free car shuttles are available at 30 minute intervals.

A car was waiting at the stop but it was already filled. Strangely even though the shuttle was filled it didn’t leave until after 15 minutes when it was scheduled to leave. Well, the Japanese certainly are very particular about time. We waited around for the next car to come along. During the rice paddy art event, free car shuttles are available for access between the first venue (Inakadate observation platform) and second venue (Yayoi no Sato observation platform).

Yayoi-no-sato observation Deck

The Second Tanbo Art
Design: Shin Godzilla
Location: Inakadate Roadside Station, Yayoi-no-sat

We reached the second venue – Michi-no-eki Inakadate Yayoi no Sato in exactly 11 minutes. Like I said the Japanese are very particular about time.

Here on a huge field, the size of a football ground was showcased a still from the movie “Shin Godzilla”, the new film of Godzilla series that a world-famous monster “Godzilla” appears on-screen. It has been 12 years since Japanese filmmaker produced last one of the series, and the film was released in July 2016 in Japan.

Furthermore, this year also “Stone Art”, which is the artwork created using different color of stones on the ground, will be held. It got favorable reviews on last year.

As same as last year, its theme will be a Japanese famous actor, Ken Takakura. The artwork can be seen from the Yayoi-no-sato observation deck at the second Tanbo Art field. A work of the Stone Art of Yujiro Ishihara, a Japanese actor, will be created in this year.

We spent some time up at the tower taking photographs of the endless paddy fields.

Going back to Hirosaki Station was much simpler. The Tamboāto Station is just a minutes walk away from the second venue. We walked down to the Tamboāto Station and waited for the next train to Hirosaki.

Tamboāto Station

Tamboāto Station (田んぼアート駅 ) is on the Konan Railway Konan Line in Inakadate, links Hirosaki and Kuroishi along a 16.8 km route. The station opened on 27 July 2013, funded entirely by the village of Inakadate to help raise tourist awareness in the area.

Trains are slated at regular intervals and we didn’t have to wait long for one to come along.

We had a wonderful time in Inakadate and now we were off to Hirosaki Castle, one of the few authentic castles still preserved from the Edo period.
The art has gained media attention from domestic and international media because of its uniqueness. Every year, over 100,000 visitors from Japan and abroad come to see the fields, including the Emperor and Empress of Japan in September, 2014.

Recommended viewing period

Mid-July to Mid-August. Open 9:00 – 17:00 （Last Admission 16:30 )

Live Cam

http://www.inakadate-tanboart.net/livecam.html

A magical sunset in Aomori

There are days and there are Days. Today was one such day of days or more realistically, evening. We were treated to one of the most memorable sunsets of our lives at Aomori Bay.

It was 4.30 pm by the time we arrived back to Aomori Station from our somewhat educational trip to the ruins of Sannai-Maruyama.

We walked back to the APA Hotel where we were staying for the duration of our trip in Aomori. We got refreshed and then ventured out for a walk along Aomori Bay.

Aomori City

Aomori is the northernmost prefecture of the Honshu, the main island of Japan. Surrounded by the Tsugaru Peninsula in the west, the Shimokita Peninsula in the northeast, and the Natsudomari Peninsula in the east, Aomori Port provides a tranquility similar to the beautiful Osaka Bay. Aomori City is among Japan’s most pleasant towns in the summer. We were just coming form Yamagata and let me tell you, it was hot there. The cool sea breeze blows in from the bay, and the city’s inhabitants are treated to clear blue skies during the days, and striking sunsets in the evenings.

History of Aomori

Aomori first became a port in 1624, when the second Tsugaru lord, Tsugaru Nobuhira, bestowed the name “Aomori” on the small fishing village of Utō. Soon, it was developed as a commercial port. The Tōhoku rail line was opened in 1892, followed by the local Ōu rail line 3 years later and it brought rapid developments to the city. During the Second World War in July 1945, Aomori was heavily bombed during air raids, destroying most of the city. As a result of this destruction, one can find mostly modern buildings around the city. 

Aomori Sightseeing Products Mansion

From the Hotel, we walked down to the Aomori Prefecture Sightseeing Products Mansion. The ASPAM building (Aomori Prefecture Sightseeing Products Mansion) is the most recognizable landmark of Aomori. The triangular building fashioned into an “A” of “Aomori” houses many shops and restaurants selling Aomori’s signature agricultural products and specialty goods. The instantly recognizable, 76m-tall A-shaped tower also houses a tourist information desk, gift shops, and an observation deck which offers spectacular views of the bay.

We walked around the ground floor where many shops were selling traditional art crafts as well as sweets made from apple. Mani purchased an Apple pie box for later. If you’ve ever wanted apple jam, baked apple, apple pastries, apple ice-cream, or indeed anything apple-flavored you can think of, then chances are the ASPAM building is where you’ll find it. Aomori Prefecture is known for its production of apples, so be sure to sample some when you are in the city. I promise you will never forget that taste. Towards the upper floors, the facility has a panorama movie theater, observation deck and restaurants with great view and local cuisine.

The 13th floor observatory has a stunning 360 degree panoramic view of Aomori city, Mt. Hakkōda, and Mutsu Bay. However it was almost closing time and we wanted to take a lazy stroll along the bay.

Blue Ocean Park (Aoi Umi Kōen)

From the ASPAM building, we walked towards the bay through the Blue Ocean Park. This park is considered the best location for gazing at the sea. It has many benches overlooking the bay, so visitors can sit and enjoy the vast ocean while the sea breeze gently blows by.

West Lighthouse at Aomori Bay

We slowly made our way along the central pier. The promenade breakwater was developed and opened to the public in April 2004. This breakwater is 310 meter in length and people can enjoy a relaxing walk by the water.

After a short walk we reached the West Lighthouse. The West Lighthouse is unlike any lighthouse I have seen before. The round, white, broadly conical tower with a lantern has a sharply peaked roof that continues the conical profile of the structure.

Surface of the breakwater is made of wood and natural stones. The benches and observation decks are provided at the central parts of the breakwater. This unusual lighthouse is a landmark in Aomori harbor. There is some confusion over its name. Its Japanese name translates to “breakwater west lighthouse,” however the National Geospatial-Intelligence lists it as “north breakwater, north head.” 

Magical Sunset at Aomori Bay

We were sitting at one of the benches near the lighthouse when the magic started to happen. The sky was in its moods and the sky started changing colors every minute. Far in the horizon, I could make out the silhouette of the container cranes at the port. Nearly 3 million tons of cargo are loaded/unloaded at the Aomori Port every year.

I zoomed in to get a close shot of the sinking sun behind Mt. Maruyakata. Earlier passengers and cargo used to be moved on the Seikan railway ferry. Operation of the Seikan ferry ceased in 1988 when the worlds longest Seikan tunnel with 53.85 km was completed and trains were able to run 1000 meter below the sea bed between Aomori and Hakodate.

Far away in the horizon the sun said a final goodbye to the city as it went down behind Mt. Maruyakata. In a very opposite behavior, the light actually became better after the sun set. The conical shaped lighthouse looked amazing in the orange sky.

It was 7 pm and we bid our final goodbye to the white lighthouse as we head back to the hotel.

Within minutes however the light started to fade away as the Orange sky turned into a many shades of purple. The tripod was a great help in taking the next few shots. 

Walking back, the ASPAM building looked even more beautiful with the lights on, in front of the Bay bridge. As we walked towards the city, we could better see the hanging Bay Bridge. The construction on the impressive bridge in the Port of Aomori was started in 1985 and all lanes were opened for traffic in 1994. The bridge is part of the traffic system essential for goods transportation in Aomori Prefecture and at the same time its impressive design makes it a beauty spot of the city.

I have seen the bridge many times during the day. It is majestic by day and picturesque in the night with its illuminated wires. At night, the lit-up bridge creates a magical atmosphere, which makes it popular among lovers. Click here if you want to see the night shots of the Aomori Bay bridge.

We sat on a bench along the breakwater, mesmerized by the happenings of the last hour or so. With not a soul around us, I could hear the soft relaxing waves and feel the natural tranquility of the surrounding bay.

It was almost 8 pm by the time we reluctantly picked ourselves up from the amazing scene that lay in front of us. We walked down to Shinmachi Street, right beside the ASPAM building, a pedestrian street full of department stores and sushi restaurants. We bought us some packed dinner that we could have back at the hotel. 

This is the city’s main shopping artery and its a different kind of experience wandering at night in these streets. After a short stroll we walked back to the hotel.

It was a good choice to reserve our rooms at Hotel APA, since its walkable distance from the JR station, Wa Rasse Nebuta Museum and also the Aomori bay. The rooms and service are of high standards. If you are visiting Aomori, Hotel APA is a reasonably good place to stay.

For me, an evening stroll on the breakwater promenade was quite a romantic experience. Not only does it gives you an overview of the city, but it also involves a pleasant stroll along the stunning waterfront.  The city has a cool climate year round and enjoys clear transitions between the four seasons. I have spent many evenings in Kobe Harbor admiring the stunning Harborland, but this was magical.

Striking sunsets like these are a regular thing along the enchanting Aomori skyline. Maybe it’s the location with the city hemmed in on three sides by mountains, including, most prominently, the Hakkōda Mountains. I look forward to coming down during fall in the future to see more of its beauty.

I hope you like my post. Thanks for reading. Please do leave me a comment if you liked it or follow my story as I head to Inakadate to witness the amazing Tanbo Rice Art of Aomori.

Ruins of Sannai-Maruyama

Today I visit the ruins of Sannai Maruyama in Aomori. Discovered in 1992, the Sannai Maruyama Archaeological Site is the largest and one of the most complete and best-preserved Jōmon Period (13000-300 BC) village in Japan. 

Morioka to Aomori

I and my wife, Mani were on a short tour of Tohoku region. We were thoroughly refreshed from our previous day at Jōdogahama beach in Iwate. The day was bright and sunny as we checked out of our hotel and walked down to Morioka Station to catch the train to Aomori. As we entered the JR Station, we were quite pleased to see it was still decorated, in lieu of the just-passed Tanabata celebrations.

Tanabata originated from a romantic legend about two lovers that are only able to meet each other once a year. This festival is held across Japan on July 7 or August 7 depending on the region. It’s said that your wishes will come true if you write them down on strips of paper called the tanzaku and hang them on bamboo branches. We left a tanzaku wish note praying for a happy future at one of the booths.

The Shinkansen takes only an hour for the journey from Morioka to Aomori, however, Mani didn’t posses a JR Pass and in order to save some money, we used the limited express train. It was a long 3-hour journey but felt rather shortened by the animated chats about the places we were yet to explore around these parts. 

We reached Shin Aomori at 11 am. The Nebuta festival had just got over in Aomori, the previous day and the station was still adorned with many Nebuta floats all over the place. The Nebuta festival is one of the most popular festivals in Aomori and if you miss it you can always drop down to the Nebuta Museum to witness the amazing floats from the last held festival.

It was almost mid-day and the sun was burning bright, and although Aomori was cooler than Iwate, the strong Sun made it a tad uncomfortable. We left our luggage at one of the station lockers and waited for the bus for Sannai Maruyama site.

The sightseeing bus called Shuttle de Route Bus Nebutan-go arrived in a few minutes. The bus route keeps running in a loop all day, and to reach the Sannai-Maruyama site one has to get down at the Sannai-Maruyama-Iseki-mae bus stop. The ride cost us 310 Yen each.

Jōmon Jiyukan

As we entered the giant hall in Jōmon Jiyukan, the volunteers at the reception helped us out with the information about the heritage site. They provided us with a guided map of the area. Beside the reception, one can also find replicas of dresses from the Jamon period. Visitors are free to try on these Jōmon period clothing. I tried out a fisherman’s dress and I presume, I would have fit right in, into this traditional society 🙂

Once we had gathered all the information, we decided to first take our lunch and then proceed to investigate the huge site. The Gosennen-no Hoshi restaurant inside the campus serves delicious meals using prominent Jōmon ingredients. One can find a variety of set menus made of fish, vegetables and nuts that people during the Jōmon period used to consume.

I am generally a bit circumspect to try new food, but I decided to give it a try anyway. I ordered the “Shiokatsukune Udon.” The dish basically comprised of soft “Chicken meatballs” with bonitos (fish) and kelp soup. I did end up enjoying it and as I write this journal I can feel myself salivating just thinking about it. After the fulfilling meal at the Gosennen-no Hoshi restaurant, we slowly walked down to the Sanmaru Museum.

Sanmaru Museum

The Sanmaru museum exhibits objects excavated from the excavation site and lists many facts about the people who lived during the Jōmon Period. The Jōmon period encompasses a large expanse of time, constituting Japan’s Neolithic period and the museum exhibits approximately 1,700 artifacts excavated from the Sannai-Maruyama site. 

A dimly lit path led us towards a life-sized figure of a young boy with his Inu (dog), pointing us towards the glass encased cases of historical findings from the Jōmon period.

Jōmon no Kokoro

The first section of the Sanmaru Museum is called the Jōmon no Kokoro (heart of the Jōmon Period). This area displays various excavated items including a large number of pottery, stone artifacts, personal ornaments, clay figures, earthenware, wooden utensils, bone tools and small knitted baskets called “Jōmon pochette” from the Jōmon period.

Shown below is one of the stone tools from the site. This grinding stone was particularly used as a food processing tool. Nuts, such as chestnuts, walnuts, and Japanese horse chestnuts were an important source of food for the people at the time. These were used to crush these hard nuts. 

Below you can see some stone spearheads used by the hunters during that period. These hunting tools are characterized by a carefully formed leaf shape and evenly beveled edges that required great skill and patience to create. These tools were created by a process called knapping, where one stone is used to strike another to create a desired shape. If you are a student of history, you will notice that these stone tools, which were somewhat roughly created in the Paleolithic era, were by the Jōmon period meticulously chipped and smoothly polished. 

We moved forward to a large board-shaped clay figurine on display. The Sannai Maruyama village site turned up a huge number of human shaped figurines. From middle to late Jōmon periods, the Jōmon people made large numbers of human figures from clay. However these Jōmon figurines do not look like real people. They have distorted forms with large faces, small arms and hands. Some of the figurines look like humans wearing goggles. This is not new for many cultures who have depicted humans in exaggerated shapes like the Egyptians, but it does make one think if the Jōmon actually had some kind of extra-terrestrial contact.

The pottery vessels crafted in ancient Japan during the Jōmon period are generally accepted to be the oldest pottery in Japan and also among the oldest in the world. The word Jômon literally means “straw-rope pattern,” and it typically describes the style of pottery of the earliest Japanese period. The Jōmon period was named after this style of pottery.

All Jōmon pots were made by hand, without the aid of a wheel. As in all other Neolithic cultures, generally women created these early potteries. Clay was mixed with a variety of adhesive materials, including mica, lead, fibers, and crushed shells. After the vessel was formed, tools were employed to smooth both the outer and interior surfaces. When completely dry, these were baked in an outdoor bonfire.

Pottery found at this site is called Ento (cylindrical) style pottery. A typical Ento style pottery is characterized by an elongated bucket shape with a wide opening and is decorated with cord marks.

Below you can see different sized needles created from bones. In those times, animal bones were used to create harpoon heads, fish hooks, needles and even hairpins. Their varying length, thickness and the eye indicate that the Jōmon people developed them for specialized purposes. Most of the bone needles shown here are made of mammal ribs.

The image below is a cross-section of a mound. Many ritual associated implements were found from these mounds, suggesting the significance of these mounds as a ground for ceremonial activities

Most artifacts used in daily life such as pottery were made at the site using locally available materials. Ornaments include pendants and earrings made of clay, stone, and animal bones.  However certain items came from far away. Jade was favored by the Jōmon people and especially valued in north Honshu where Sannai Maruyama is located. In addition to complete artifacts such as large beads, raw stones have also been discovered here. 

If you want a guided explanation while looking at the exhibits, a volunteer from the Sannai-Maruyama volunteers will gladly guide you round the exhibits.

The Jōmon people of Sannai Maruyama

As we moved further, we were in the Jōmon-jin no Kurashi wo Himotoku (Lifestyle of the Jōmon Period people) section. Here life-sized figurines are used to reproduce the Jōmon daily life, based on excavated objects. The people in the early Jōmon period frequently traveled from one place to the next while engaged in camping and nomadic life. The Jōmon people primarily belonged to a hunter-gatherer culture. 

Over time the sedentary settlements appeared and certain communities engaged in cultivating plants. They gradually moved to a semi-sedentary lifestyle and descended from a mixture of the ancient hunter-gatherer Jōmon and the Yayoi rice agriculturalists. Their features can also be seen in the Ainu and Ryukyuan people. In fact, the Ainu have often been considered to be descendants resulting from a mix of the cultures of the Jōmon people and the Okhotsk. I have written a detailed report on the history of Ainu people.

Below you can see a typical Jōmon family gathering. The historical Ainu culture originated in a merger of the Okhotsk culture with the Satsumon, one of the ancient archaeological cultures that are considered to have derived from the Jōmon period cultures of the Japanese Archipelago. The origin myths of Japanese civilization extend back to periods now regarded as part of the Jōmon period, though they show little or no relation to what we know archaeologically of Jōmon culture, one of the reasons why the Japanese deny Ainu as the aborigines.

After about an hour of adoring the prehistoric artifacts, we moved on towards the excavation site. The Jiyu tunnel led us into the the largest ruins of a traditional village, dating from 4,000 to 5,500 years ago. Stepping into this region is like taking a step back in time.

A brief history of Jōmon People of Sannai-Maruyama

The Jōmon period experienced a large-scale climate change since it extended for a long period of 10,000 years. The Sannai-Maruyama Ruins are the largest ruins of a Jōmon-period (about 10,500-300 BC) village in Japan, and are estimated to date from 4,000 to 5,500 years ago. The Japanese archipelago is extremely elongated from north to south and its topography varies considerably; therefore, regional differences in the climate and vegetation were large during the Jōmon period as is today. As a result, the cultural style of the Jomon period is not uniform both historically and regionally and it came to take many different forms.

There have been previous excavations around the Sannai-Maruyama site between 1953 to 1967. These excavations involved teams from Keio University and the Board of Education of Aomori City. In 1976 and 1987, the Board of Education of Aomori Prefecture and Aomori City also conducted further excavations on the southern part of the site.

However, the major breakthrough for the site came in 1992 while excavating during a pre-construction phase for a baseball stadium. This excavation uncovered how large Sannai Maruyama was as well as a large amount of artifacts. 

After the excavation and study of the site, the village was reburied with earth and a number of reconstructed pit dwellings, long houses and a large tower were built on top. Visitors can enter the reconstructions, some of which are quite large, as well as see a few of the original excavation sites around the grounds.

A large number of pot shards and stone implements, clay figurines, jade beads, etc. were disposed together with the soil and formed a mound for over 1000 years. You can see its cross-section here. X-ray analysis shows that the jade excavated at ‘Sannai-Maruyama Site’ in Aomori Prefecture is from Itoigawa and therefore, it is assumed that the Jōmon people also traded among themselves over the wide area.

These findings demonstrate a change in the structure of the community, architecture, and organizational behaviors of these people. Because of the extensive information and importance, this site was designated as a Special National Historical Site of Japan in 2000.

Sannai Maruyama

Sannai Maruyama was first settled around 3900 BCE. At that time it was inhabited by hunters and gatherers only. Over this period of time, the site changed from a seasonal camp, to the home of a more mobile society, and finally to a settled village. Evidence of this sedentary lifestyle can be found in the the changes in their storage facilities.

Pit Dwellings

The earliest pit dwellings at Sannai Maruyama were during the Early Jōmon period, built between 5900 and 5400 years ago. At that time, Sannai was comparatively small and simple, a collection of pit dwellings. The first settlers on the site lived in pit houses. These dwellings typically were about 10 feet in diameter. The floor was dug below the ground level. A hearth was located in its center. At least 550 pit-dwellings have been discovered so far and 15 have been reconstructed. Some of the pit houses seen at Sannai Maruyama were simple thatched-roof semi-subterranean houses, like this reconstruction. To make this bark-thatched pit dwelling, a pit was excavated into the ground and bark or wood branches were assembled over the top forming a cone-like structure.

Over time the thatched pit dwelling was replaced with a sturdier structure as shown below. Like the thatched huts, the floor of a pit dwelling was dug into the ground. Supporting posts were placed at the corners and the walls and roof were built and roofed with thatch. The average size of these pit dwelling is between three and four meters in diameter.

Store Houses

Initially they used to store food in underground pits, which allowed them to hide it when they left the site since the occupants were not yet living a sedentary lifestyle.  With time, the storage features changed from these underground pits to elevated granaries around 2900 BC. These buildings were built higher than the ground level and were specifically used as storage facilities.

Long House

As the community became sedentary, long houses began showing up around this time. Long houses were large, oval-shaped structures. The longest one found at the site was 32 meters (105 feet) long. Scholars believe long houses were used for meeting places, workshops, or living space. Pit houses were still being inhabited for individual dwelling  at the same time that long houses started to come up on the landscape.

Till now eleven long houses have been excavated at Sannai Maruyama. They were large, oval-shaped semi-subterranean pit dwellings. The reconstruction  shown below is the longest, measuring 32 meters in length. This huge structure displays a coordinated labor force that would have required cooperation of several people to make. This displays the gradual shift from an individual to a social community in this time period.

Watchtower

With a stable living style, also, there appeared one of Sannai Maruyama’s most famous structures, the large six-pillared building, was built around 2,600 BC.  This structure consisted of six large pillars that are believed to have held up platforms. Each one of these pillars was around 1 meter in diameter and was placed exactly 14 ft apart.  This large post like platform was certainly used as a watchtower. 

Burial Pits

Burials at Sannai Maruyama took three forms: jar burials, pit burials, and stone circle burials. Large jars have been discovered near the pit dwelling clusters. These are assumed to be burials, although human bones have not been preserved within them, on the basis of similar burials found in later Jōmon sites such as Yoshinogari. Jar burials have been dated to the Middle Jōmon period, from 5400-4300 years ago. The second form of burial was of adults aligned in rows along the sides of long roadways extending from the center of the settlement towards the outside. Finally as shown below, stone circle arrangements have also been found at Sannai Maruyama, which included adult burials. 

The settlement of Sannai Maruyama ended around 2300 BC.

By now we were extremely dehydrated. The harsh sun had taken its toll and we dragged ourselves to the safety of the Jōmon Jiyukan.

The vending machine at that moment was “gold” for us, as we gulped on the chilled sugary drinks.

The Sannai Maruyama site was designated as a special historical site by the Japanese government in November 2000. Today the public can visit this site and explore its many reconstructions. The site also features a Theater, a workshop and a gift shop. If you are in love with history do not miss this site. Even though at present, most of the excavated items have been reburied for preservation, the excavation sites and artifacts on display will giving you a feel of life in those ancient times.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as we go for a stroll along the lovely Aomori Bay to witness a most alluring sunset.

Open Hours:

9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Closed days:

December 30 – January 1
The center is also closed on the fourth Monday of each month. If that day is a holiday, the center will be closed the next day

Admission Fees:

410 Yen

Are baggage lockers available at the site?

Lockers are available for free. You need a 100 yen coin to lock them, but it will be returned when you retrieve your belongings.

Are all objects exhibited in the museum excavated in the Sannai-Maruyama site?

Yes. Sanmaru Museum exhibits approximately 1,700 artifacts excavated from this very this site.

Are there any restaurants at the site?

Yes, you can find a fine restaurant on the premises named Gosennen-no Hoshi, which offers specialty food prepared with Jōmon period recipes and also a kiosk called Hokusaikan.

Do you sell any books about the site?

Yes, many informative books are available at the museum shop as well as the kiosk.

The pure Jodogahama Beach

Today we ride to the scenic Jodogahama Beach. Jodogahama Beach, or “Paradise Beach,” with its series of rock formations is one of the most popular places of scenic beauty along the Rikuchu Coast in the Tohoku region of northern Japan.

Morioka to Jodogahama Beach

Sun was already beating down on us as we walked down to the Morioka Station from our hotel. Summer has been strangely hotter this year.

While much of Japan is easily accessible by train, there are a few areas like Miyoka, that take a bit more effort to reach. This area was greatly effected by the big Tsunami of 2011 and rail services in the area have been greatly affected.

The JR Yamada Line connects Miyako and Morioka, but train service has not resumed on this segment of the line since 2011. Thankfully the roads and tourist facilities in the area have been restored, and while some diversions are in place, the area is now easily accessible via the Iwate Kenpoku Bus.

At Morioka station, the tourist information volunteers happily pointed us towards the Bus ticket counter. 

I was carrying my JR Rail Pass and they didn’t charge me for the round trip bus ride. For Mani, it cost her ￥2000. The #106 Bus run by Iwate Kenpoku is scheduled at regular intervals of an hour and the easiest way to travel to Miyako, unless you have your own car, of-course. The bus stops near the East Exit at stop #7.  We left for Morioka at 11.40 am. The bus was mostly occupied by local residents traveling to Miyako. 

Sanriku Fukko National Park

During most of my travels, I have been treated to a Japanese landscape, adorned with wide areas of paddy fields. However, the Iwate Kenpoku bus travels through the dense forest of Sanriku Fukko National Park. Once past the outskirts of the town, the road leading to Miyako is bounded on either side by woodlands, rich in an endless variety of foliage.

The Sanriku Fukko National Park incorporates two former parks: Rikuchu Kaigan National Park and the Minami Sanriku Kinkasan Quasi-National Park. On the way the bus stops at Yoho for a 10 minutes break. Passengers can get down to stretch their legs or if they want, obtain some snacks or drinks from the store.

The lovely road kept on going and we finally reached Miyako at 1.55 pm.

Miyako City

From Miyako, we needed to take another bus for a short 20 minute ride to the beach. From stop #3 buses leave hourly for the Jodogahama beach and get there in about 20 minutes. While waiting for the bus, I wandered around to have a look at Miyako Station.

The station was mostly deserted since tourists stick to the bus service.

Mani went ahead to the information booth at the station and obtained the bus timetables for our return journey.

Miyako is a small city of approximately 60,000 people. I would say the only reason I was here was to experience Jodogahama beach. The area of present-day Miyako was part of ancient Mutsu Province, and has been settled since at least the Jomon period. On March 11, 2011, Miyako was devastated by a tsunami caused by the 2011 Tohoku earthquake. During the tsunami, waves reached at least 37.9 metres above sea level, almost equaling the record of 38.2 metres created during the 1896 Sanriku earthquake tsunami. It left behind a huge devastation, the city is still recovering from.

The afternoon was getting hotter by the minute and we were thoroughly relieved to see the bus arrive that would takes us to the beach.

The bus dropped us and our fellow passengers at the parking lot of the Jodogahama Visitor center. Below the parking lot we followed the road directly to the Jodogahama Beach. A rest house is located nearby where you can use the toilet or buy food and drinks.

Alas it was a Sunday and the beach was full of sun-bathing tourists. Walking along the pebbled beach we tried but failed to find a decent spot to rest for a bit. 

Jodogahama Beach is Sanriku Fukko National Park’s hallmark spot, thought to have been formed around 52 million years ago in the Paleogene period. These white volcanic rocks that from the bay cut it off from the open sea and tame the waves that hit the shore.

These groups of Paleogene period volcanic rock formations have been weathered by wind and rains into fantastic shapes. Evergreens like the Nanbu red pine, which is a symbol of the prefecture, grow atop these rocks, and the contrast with the white stone conjures up the beauty of a traditional Japanese garden.

Jodo Sect of Buddhism

Now Jodogahama means “Pure Land”, why it was named so is still a mystery for me. One of my Japanese friends tell me – “Jodo” means a place where people go to die. After some researching I found an article about the Jodo sect of Buddhism.

Founded by Honen(1133-1226), the Jodo(Pure Land) sect is based on the worship of Amida, the merciful Buddha of the pure land. The focus of this sect is to show the common folks how to be reborn into Amida’s paradise.

The name Jodogahama is said to derive from a seventh generation Buddhist priest of the Miyako-san Joanji Temple in the Tenna era (from 1681 to 1683) by the name of Reikyo, who, while admiring the sight before his eyes described it as “just like Amida paradise.”  Over the years many have come to consider this vivid contrast of the sharp, white rocks, green pines, and deep blue sea to a Pure Land or Paradise.

Jodogahama Beach

We loitered around the Beach house area for a few minutes but then decided to walk towards a more quieter place.

The waters are a clear emerald blue and the white and vibrant, jagged rocks pierce the calm sea.

The Black-tailed gulls very have a nice time in the shadow areas.

We got into the water to enjoy the cool sparkling water. This beach is perfect for swimming as the sea is calm and the waters warm. Although you might feel the pebbles hurting your foot a bit.

Once the sun mellowed down, we walked along the beach. In many places the limestone rocks can be seen jutting out, creating magnificent shapes.

After walking for a bit we reached a tunnel.

The tunnel led us to Jodogahama Marine House where you can take a small fishing boat to see Blue Cave. So if you aren’t satisfied by just sitting on the beach and soaking in the sights then you can also opt for the Sappa boat cruise. This cruise goes inside Hachinoheana, the Blue Cave. Inside the cave is a blow-hole, which is said to bring good luck. The waters within the cave change colour depending on the season, so when you visit you may be treated to some stunning water. However we were late and the cruise had shut down for the day.

A bit further we found ourselves at the Miyako Jodogahama Boat Cruise pier. From here you can catch the 40-minute tour on the Rikuchu-maru Tour Boat will take you around the islands of Jodogahama.

Tategasaki Tower

We were finally back at the starting point of the trail near the visitors center. The bus was still some time away so I half-sprinted to one of the popular viewpoints at the beach.

From above one can view a wide area of the bay.

Jodogahama to Morioka

The bus took its sweet time coming. The parking lot has a cozy sitting area, so we rested there as we waited for the bus to come along.

A small queue had formed and we also joined it. The bus eventually came and took us back to Miyako station.

At Miyako, the bus that would take up back to Morioka was scheduled for 5.45pm. We still had some time on our hands and we were famished. Down the road we found a store and picked up some food for the way.

We sat in front of the JTB Travel Agency, from where the bus to Morioka was scheduled to pick us up. The bus picked us up at 5.45 and we were finally headed back to Morioka.

Surrounded by deep blue-green waters, Jodogahama Beach is a sheltered by a picturesque line of craggy, white rocks that mean it’s calm shallows are great place to swim in warmer months. It is indeed a great beach for swimming, with clean water and gentle waves. Make sure you walk around the cove, and view the rocky spine from a number of different angles, and there are many walking trails that meander around the area which lead to view points.

Pines cover the surrounding bluffs and crabs and small fish mingle in the the rock pools completing this beautiful scene, making this area worthy of the title “Pure Land” bestowed upon it by the Buddhist Monk Reikyo who felt he had reached paradise on earth when he visited. If you want a little bit of paradise whilst in Japan then Jodogahama beach is the place for you.

We reached Morioka Station by 8 pm. But it still wasn’t the end of day for us 🙂

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as we explore the Jomon period ruins of Sannai-Maruyama.

The islands of Matsushima

Designated as one of the Nihon Sankei – the three most scenic views in Japan, alongside Miyajima & Amanohashidate, Matshushima is dotted by as many as 260 islands scattered throughout the picturesque Bay. Today we take a cruise through these pine-covered islands that have left poets smitten across the ages.

We were in Sendai. We spent the early part of the day roaming the streets among the Tanabata celebrating crowds. After an early lunch we rode the local Ishinomaki local from JR Sendai Station to Matsushima-Kaigan Station. Matsushima Bay area is at a walk-able distance from here.

Matsushima Bay Cruise

After reaching Matsushima Bay, we walked straight to the admission counter for the cruise rides. Cruises depart from the boat pier next to the admission booth. The view from Matsushima Pier is itself lovely, but we wanted to get on the boat cruise to see the beautiful islands at close quarters.

There are two options for the cruise, you can either choose the round-trip cruise that comes back to the starting point or get down at Shiogama Pier midway. We choose to go for the round trip ticket, which cost us ¥1500 per person.

We were scheduled for the 4 pm cruise. We had some time on our hands before our turn came along, so we took a short walk around the area. Along the bay, the first thing that catches your eye is the long red Fukuurabashi bridge.

Some boats were leaving with tourists as we wandered along the edge of the shore. It was a hot day combined with a lot of surrounding haze over the bay. On the eastern side you could still see lovely blue skies but the western skies were quite bland and white with the Sun trying to pierce through the haze.

Godai-do

Just a few paces ahead lay a small island connected by a red bridge. On the island, overlooking Matsushima Bay, you can find the Godai-do, a must-see symbol of Matsushima.

Originally known as Bishamon-do, it was founded in 807 CE, during the early Heian period by the shogun Sakanoue no Tamuramaro. However it shot to fame only after 828 CE when the revered priest Ennin, installed images of the Five Deva Kings within the Bishamon-do. From that time it came to be known as Godai-do, named after the five Buddhas of wisdom, housed within, and displayed to the public during a special ceremony only once every 33 years. It was last opened in 2006, so we have to wait another 23 years to view the statues.

The bridge has spaces between the planks. It is said that if you trip between these planks, you are not yet ready to reach the temple.

The Matsushima bay area has seen many natural disasters. The original building was destroyed in one of these unfortunate incidents. The building we see today was reconstructed by Date Masamune in 1604 CE.

This temple is the oldest Momoyama-style architecture in the Tohoku region and has been designated as an important cultural asset. The ceiling within this hall is said to be decorated with the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac. 

Surrounding the Godai-do, numerous pine trees hang out towards the outer edge of the island. The name of the bay Matsushima – matsu means pine and shima means island, is a clear giveaway why it was named so.

Once it was time for our cruise we made our way back to the pier.

The cruise boat was just arriving as we reached the dock. There are eight cruises per day (seven during the winter months) from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm, sailing every day of the year, weather permitting. The Niōmaru has capacity for 300 passengers, while the newer Niōmaru III can carry 400 people at a time.

Once everyone was off, we queued up to board the cruise boat. The boat has two decks and passengers can sit anywhere, the seats don’t have any numbering. We placed our bags on a couple of seats and walked out to the open area at the back of the boat, so we could enjoy a unhindered view of the beautiful archipelago. You can also go up to the more luxurious upper deck by paying extra ¥500.

As the boat left the shore, the sea gulls followed us into the ocean. One can buy food for the seagulls on the boat to feed them.

As the cruise starts, the first island that you see is obviously the lovely Fukuurajima Island on the left. The largest island in the bay functions as a natural garden. The bridge itself is called Fukuurabashi and is open to the public who can walk to the island by paying a small admission fee.

The Niōmaru boat cruise trip is of about 50 minutes and during that time you can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the islands, up close, with the blue sea as well as enjoy the fresh air around the bay.

Each of the island along the route has different shape and they all have different names and meanings. During the trip there was a running commentary for the entirety of the trip, which functioned as a guide as we passed certain important islands.

All explanations on my cruise were given in Japanese and I wasn’t able to figure out much other than the names of some of the islets. Not to forget, we kept running from side to side of the boat, trying to capture all the little islands that kept passing us.

Sightseeing boat announcements are available in both Japanese and English but they are at different times. Make sure you are buying tickets with the correct broadcast language.

These twin islets below are known as Futagojima.

The islands of Matsushima are the result of a geological phenomenon and each of the islets are points where an ancient valley covered by the water has emerged above the sea level caused by tectonic movements. The depth of the sea surrounding the archipelago does not exceed 10 meters at any point.

Over time, erosion has given these islands unusual forms, some of which looked like mushrooms. The favorable natural conditions caused pine trees to cover the archipelago with a mantle of greenery, making it a unique landscape in Japan.

Formation of Matsushima Bay

Matsushima Bay has been traditionally considered as a typical submerged coast, but research suggests that these islets were formed by a coastal mega-landslide in middle Holocene age, around 4000 BC.

A strong earthquake from nearby active fault was the most probable trigger of the landslide. Hills which used to be located around the area of Matsushima Bay, slid southeast parallel to the bedrocks without breaking into small fragments. The sliding surface, almost horizontal with its own topography formed a layer over the bay, resulting in creation of these small land masses all over the area.

The mega-landslide must have entered the sea and generated a maga-tsunami causing major loss of life to the surrounding Jomon population. Evidence from the shell mounds indicate that the early Jomon people in the area had started settling down on inconvenient highlands which were considered safer from landslides and tsunamis.

Unfortunately the tsunamis are still a cause pain today in nearby areas. One of my friends on Instagram, who is currently residing in Tokyo, had told me how many of his relatives and friends were killed in the disasters, while his home in Minamisanriku, Miyagi Prefecture, which had stood for 300 years and spanned 11 generations, was swept away by the tsunami. That’s a deep scar to live with. My prayers are with him and all the innocent souls lost to the tsunami on that unfortunate day.

After a few minutes we were far out in the ocean where you can unravel as to how far the archipelago stretches into the ocean. We passed by one of the most unique looking islands. Named Kanejima or the “Bell Island” it houses four arches of different sizes that go right through it.

Next on our radar was the Niojima. This is one of the most iconic island in the bay. People have given some strangest of descriptions of this island. Let me add another as to me it appeared as a whale blowing its snot.  

We stopped at this point for a few minutes to allow the people on board to enjoy the lovely views of the ocean, after-which the boat turned back on-route to the shore. Longer cruises will get you to further remote areas of Oku-Matsushima.

Summit level of these Matsushima Islands are usually about 50 m high.

Matsuo Basho, one of the most famous of Japanese haiku poet, is said to have been at a loss for words when he first saw the hundreds of pine-clad islets scattered around Matsushima Bay during a 17th-century journey to the Tohoku region.

Heavily romanticized by Japanese travelers, the pine-covered islands, battered by wind and sea form a kind of Zen rock garden in the ocean.

We were back at the pier at around 5 pm. There was still daylight, and we didn’t want to back so soon.

After disembarking from our boat we turned right and walked along the main street which was lined with many interesting looking shops. We walked past the Godai-do, where we had already been earlier in the day and followed a narrow path along the ocean arriving at a tiny building at the mouth of the Fukuura Bridge.

Fukuura Island is one of the few pine covered islands in Matsushima Bay that is accessible to the public. The island is reached via this 252 meter long, red painted bridge.

The building serves to control access to the island and is where you pay the ¥ 200 admission to enter the island. It was 5 pm already and there was no one at the admission booth. We decided against going to the island as it would be dusk soon.

From what I read, there is not much to see on the island besides plants and views of the bay. The island is a natural botanical garden with a network of pleasant walking trails. It takes about one hour to walk all the trails at a leisurely pace. Some nice views of the bay can surely be enjoyed along the way.

We sat on a bench nearby, admiring the scene till the sunset. Once the Sun was gone we made our way back to Matsushima Kaigan Station for the train to Sendai. The train was still some minutes away so we waited at the platform with other visitors.

From Sendai we caught the Tohoku-Hokkaido Shinkansen to Morioka which was our next stop on our tour of the Tohoku region. It takes about 2 hours to reach Morioka from Sendai. It was pretty late into the night as we pulled into Morioka. The station though, was still alive with Tanabata decorations.

We grabbed some dinner from a convenience store nearby and headed to our hotel. The body seeps well after a tiring day, next day was going to be a long day as well as we were planning to go to Jodogahama Beach.

I didn’t have time to cover more of Matsushima. There are many other attractions in the Matsushima Bay area. Some of the popular temples include

  • Zuiganji (the most renowned Zen temple in Tohoku area)
  • Entsuin Temple (mausoleum of Date Mitsumune) and
  • Tenrinin Temple (mausoleum of his daughter, Lady Iroha).

Fukuurajima (one of the islands covered by pines), is also worth a visit but unfortunately I was out of time. The long, red Fukuurabashi Bridge and Godaido Temple are also illuminated at night if you are interested. 

Photographs can never tell the emotions I felt standing on the boat as I sped past these incredible shaped islands. I hope they can inspire some of you to reach out and witness what I have. If you visit Miyagi Prefecture and want to enjoy some fresh air as well as a mesmerizing scenery, then Matsushima Bay is definitely worth a visit!

Thanks for reading. I look forward to your comments and questions. If you are looking to explore more of the Tohoku region, follow my travels as I visit the Jodogahama Beach in the interiors of Morioka.

Matsushima Bay Cruise Timings

9 am to 4 pm

Roundtrip and Matsushima-Shiogama Cruise cost (Updated 2019)

¥1500

Round-trip cruises between Matsushima and Saga Kei cliffs

¥ 2500 (between April and October only) 

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