The Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, with a length of almost four kilometers, is the world’s longest suspension bridge. Opened in 1998, it spans the Akashi Strait (Akashi Kaikyo) between Kobe and Awaji Island and is part of the Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway.
Prior to the bridge’s construction, the strait was considered one of the world’s most dangerous waterways. For instance, in 1955 a severe storm caused two ferries to sink resulting in the deaths of 168 people.
How to get to Akashi Kaikyo
If you are coming from Osaka, you have to get down at the Maiko Station, on the Sanyo Line. Shinkansen trains don’t stop here, you have to use a local train. I had purchased a Kansai Wide Pass. If you want to stop at various stations just to take photos this pass makes it very cheap to travel around the Kansai region.
Once you come out of the Maiko station, you will have to cross the road and walk past the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge Exhibition Center on the left. A few meters away a small lane goes right to the edge of the Akashi Strait.
It took 180,000 tonnes of steel to complete the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
Akashi Kaikyo Bridge at dusk
It is a substantial 6-lane road bridge that connects Kobe on the main island of Honshu with Iwyaya on the smaller Japanese island of Awaji. This, in turn, is linked to the island of Shikoku via the Ōnaruto Bridge over the Naruto Strait.
The bridge was originally planned by the Japanese National Railways (now JR) in the mid-1950’s, as part of a rail link between the islands of Honshu and Shikoku. In 1975, after an exhaustive study, the Japanese government elected to build JR’s bridge, the Seto Bridge, over a much shorter span closer to Okayama. If you have been to the island of Shikoku by rail, you must have already used this route.
About 300,000 kilometers of cabling was used in the bridge’s construction
Ranita & Viki at Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
The length of the bridge alone presented a tremendous challenge to the engineers, but that wasn’t the only issue they had to face in designing this monumental structure. For one, the bridge also had to be tall enough to let boat traffic in the strait pass unimpeded.
As the bridge stands in a seismically unstable part of the world, engineers also needed to ensure its design would stand the test of time. To this end, the bridge includes a complex system of counterweights, pendulums, and steel-truss girders that allow the bridge to withstand wind speeds of up to 290 km/h. The foundation depth of the bridge is equivalent to that of a 20-storey apartment. Yet despite its inherent strength, the bridge is also able to expand and contract several times a day.
The rocky bank is a beautiful spot to take a shot of the lovely bridge. I had reached the spot at around 5 pm. The bridge is exactly 3,911 meters long, has three spans supported by two main supporting towers that stand 297 meters apiece and a series of anchoring cables. This makes Akashi Kaikyo Bridge also one of the world’s tallest.
Ranita at Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
Light was pretty bright. At first I took some shots with a 10-stop ND filter. They came out okay. I wasn’t too excited to see the results since the skies had no drama.
The bridge is used by around 25,000 cars everyday
Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
How I took captured Night View of Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
After that I walked further west along the coast but couldn’t find a better spot, so I walked back to the earlier spot and waited for the lights to come on and then took this shot. I used the 10-24mm nikkor at 24mm on my Nikon D7100. I lowered the aperture to F16 to slow down the shutter speed to get the water to look smooth.
The Akashi–Kaikyo bridge has a total of 1,737 illumination lights!
Akashi Kaikyo Bridge at twilight
The Akashi–Kaikyo bridge has a total of 1,737 illumination lights: 1,084 for the main cables, 116 for the main towers, 405 for the girders and 132 for the anchorages. Sets of three high-intensity discharge lamps in the colors red, green and blue are mounted on the main cables. The RGB colour model and computer technology make for a variety of combinations.
How long did it take to build the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge?
Ten years (1988 -1998)
What is the longest span bridge in the world?
Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
Why is the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge called the Pearl Bridge?
The Akashi Kaikyo Bridge is called the ‘Pearl Bridge’ because of the 28 different patterns and various colors of lights used to illuminate her at night. When illuminated it gives the appearance of beautiful pearls on a necklace.
Takarazuka is a small city hidden between the Rokko and Nagao Range. The city is known for its hot springs and its all-female Takarazuka Revue, both of which are a big draw for visitors. But not for me…
Takarazuka is almost a 3 hour ride from Osaka and I had no intention to use up a full day to visit. But then, Mani dug up information about this Manga museum dedicated to Astro Boy and his creator, the legendary Osamu Tezuka. The museum has a remarkable archive of sketches, drawings, photographs, notebooks and original comic strips dedicated to Tezuka. Now, Mani & I, both are huge Atom(Astro Boy) fans. So off we went.
Astro Boy, known in Japan by its original name Atom, is a Japanese manga series written and illustrated by Osamu Tezuka between 1952 to 1968. The story follows the adventures of an adorable android named Astro Boy.
We had the Kansai Pass with us for the weekend so, we took the Kintetsu Line to Osaka, and from there we hopped on to a train to Imazu on the Hankyu-Imazu Line. We had to make a brief stop at Imazu and change again for Takarazuka. We got off at the Takarazuka-Minamiguchi station. The museum is walking distance from here.
Osamu Tezuka Manga Museum
To reach the museum, we had to cross the beautiful Muko-gawa River coming from Rokko Mountains. The bridge is adorned with some of the characters from Takarazuka Revue plays.
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It took us about 10 minutes walking from Minamiguchi Station. We walked past a few flower shops until we reached a silver building with a dome at the top. A Phoenix sculpture greeted us at the front of the building. On the walls, the faces of Atom, Leo, Princess Knight and Phoenix are etched refreshing our memories of the legacy of Osamu Tezuka.
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A series of steps took us to the entrance. Two cheerful ladies greeted us at the admission booth. Tickets cost us 800 Yen each. Right beside the booth is a life-size statue of Atom. Just opposite to the statue, there is a display of various small figurines of the characters created by Tezuka.
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On the same floor towards the left is a room that displays a historical view of Tezuka’s life and early work. Numerous circular glass panels exhibit photographs, manuscripts with original sketches, books and memorabilia that are sure to send one on a trip down memory lane.
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Towards the rear of the room is a small screening room that runs animated movies based on Tezuka’s life. The door to the theater is guarded by a big statue of Kimba, the white Lion.
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Next, we headed down towards the basement. The basement studio contains a life-size model of the artist at work in a classroom. The great Tezuka’s statue watches over small desks where visitors can make their own manga drawings. Mani took a seat at one of the animation light tables. The charming assistant gave her pencils and paper. Surely, children who come here will never forget this experience of crafting animation first hand.
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After Mani was done with her drawing, we took a ride up the elevator to the second floor. A round-table video console in the center of the main hall. A corner of the hall is dedicated to a Manga library. Many children were sitting and reading books from the impressive collection.
The gift shop was our next stop where everything from pens and pins to T-shirts and key-chains were on display. Mani very much wanted to buy on of the 3D t-shirts but they were expensive at 4000 Yen a piece. I got myself a dangler for my camera bag. Beside the gift shop is a photo booth. We took a couple of photos. Beyond the photo booth, this floor also has a small gallery for displaying selected works of Tezuka and some other artists as Fujiko Fujio the creator of the Doraemon.
While walking through the three floors of the Tezuka Manga Museum, one can only be impressed by his dedication to the art of the cartoon.
Who was Osamu Tezuka?
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Born in 1928, Tezuka’s childhood in the environs of Takarazuka brought him close to nature, a theme he often used in his stories. Tezuka began his career as a cartoonist in 1947. An avid storyteller interested in western literature, his modernized version of Treasure Island placed him on the literary map with book sales around 400,000 copies. Throughout his long career, he drew nearly 150,000 pages of comics which filled some 500 different titled works. His works contain love, grief, anger and also hate. Even after his death, Tezuka remains one of Japan’s most important cultural heroes and his cartoon characters have captured hearts worldwide since the 1940’s.
On our way back, Mani insisted we stopped by at Takarazuka Revue.
The most famous and popular attraction in the city, this theater features all-female casts. The all-female acting, dancing and singing troupe, who perform Japanese versions of Broadway musicals, as well as many original Japanese productions. Actresses who play male roles are known as Otokoyaku and are very popular. Those who play female roles are called Musumeyaku. Tezuka also grew up in the city, watching the Takarazuka Revue as a boy.
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If you’re traveling in Japan and want to pay tribute to one of Japan’s pioneers of manga, the Osamu Tezuka Manga Museum should be the first place on your list.
The Osamu Tezuka Manga Museum is open daily except Wednesdays, 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. The admission fee is 800 Yen. Photography is allowed on all the floors except the second floor.
I have been to Nara Park several times. The ever popular Tôdai-ji temple and Kasuga-Taisha shrine are always crawling with inquisitive tourists, but today Mani & I wander beyond these cultural landscapes into the Kasugayama Primeval Forest. The natural environment of Kasugayama is an integral yet invisible part of the shrines and temples in Nara Park. The park is so large you could easily wander into the Primeval Forest, without even knowing it.
Kasugayama Primeval Forest is a primeval forest spread over 250 hectares, near the summit of Kasugayama. It contains around 270 different kinds of trees. Hunting and logging have been prohibited in the sacred forest since 841 CE. As a result, the forest backdrop of the shrines that you see today have remained unchanged since the Nara period, retaining the authenticity in spirit and feeling from yesteryear.
I had been looking forward to hike to Uguisuno-taki Falls for some time now, but the wet weather in Nara kept preventing me. Eventually the rains gave way this week and we took the opportunity to hike up the Wakakusa mountain. After a quick meal at the college cafeteria, Mani & I walked towards Todaiji from where the trail starts.
The hike to the Falls is about 10 km round trip, from the base of Wakakusayama. You can find the trail somewhere between Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha which leads into the woods. A signboard is present at the start of the trail, so it won’t be tough to find.
Kasugayama Primeval Forest
None of the busybee tourists flock this trail. It was only after maybe half an hour that we we came upon a group of cheerful elderly ladies, trudging back towards the city. They greeted us with smiles and “Konnichiwa.” I always find the friendliest of people on hikes. Maybe its the mountain air or the excitement from conquering the hike.
There are some Snake warning signs along the path so be careful.
Hike to Uguisunotaki Falls
Deep into the forest, we found some lovely looking Japanese beautyberry shrubs. It is a deciduous shrub, most notable for producing purple berries during fall. These fruits are not toxic but also not edible for humans. They serve as al alternative food to the birds and deer in the forest.
Purple Berries inside Kasugayama Primeval Forest
Halfway up the mountain the woods become thicker and the trees become taller. With the thick forest of pine trees surrounding me, I felt like a tiny little ant. There was silence all around us except for the sudden chirping of the birds. It was a welcome break from the increasing number of temples I had been visiting of late. The inside of the forest is dim even in the daytime as sunlight is not able to penetrate through the tall trees.
The thick woods with rows of Pine trees
The waterfall lies at the northeastern end of the Kasugayama primeval forest. The fall does not lie along the main trail so you will have to follow the directions provided along the way. There are proper signs that will tell you once you have reached the exit point to get to the waterfall. From there you have to descend down from the main trail. The path becomes very narrow here and at some curves, are a bit tricky to negotiate in the wet mud. After about 15 minutes of descent, we reached the waterfall at around 2:30 pm.
Mobile internet services might be intermittent at several points of the trail
After the climb down from the main trail, a flight of stairs takes you to the Waterfall
Uguisuno-taki Falls has been a popular local spot since the Edo period (1600-1868). It takes its name from the popular Uguisu bird, also known as the Japanese bush warbler. The Uguisu, with its camouflaged colors, is more often heard than seen. Its distinctive breeding call can be heard throughout most of Japan from the start of spring. Since the Edo Period, the Japanese have anticipated the first calls of the bush warbler as it heralds the coming of spring in Japan.
We spent some time at the base of the falls, capturing some photos of the surrounding area. It is not a grand waterfall. It would be about 8 meters in height and due to the season, the water was a little more of a trickle. However what is interesting is that the water flow never dries up here. Still it was a nice place to sit down and relax. The water at the base of the fall was very very cold.
Uguisunotaki Falls
By 3:30 pm we started our walk back. The way back was much faster. We were quickly out of the wooded area where the skies were much more visible. In the late afternoon, the Sun had sprayed the forest with a golden glow.
Hike to Uguisunotaki Falls
Once you are out of the woods, it feels quite pleasant walking on the pebbled path. Surprisingly I didn’t notice any deer in the area, though this isn’t very far from the Nara Park where they can be found loitering in abundance.
Hike to Uguisunotaki Falls
After walking for about an hour, we were back at Nara Park in front of the glowing, brown Wakakusayama, slated to be burned in a couple of weeks as part of the Yamayaki festival. Every winter on the fourth Saturday of January, Wakakusayama’s slopes are burned during the spectacular Wakakusa Yamayaki festival.
Viki Pandit at Nara Park
I love to be able to experience wilderness areas in peace.The Uguisuno-taki Falls is not a very big waterfall, but the hike alone is gratifying in itself. It is the only waterfall in the vicinity of Mt Kasuga. The trail to Uguisuno-taki continues beyond the waterfall and I hope we can come back another day to continue on that path and see where it goes.
Thank you for reading. Please leave me a comment or ask away if you need any information for hiking to the hidden waterfall.
Today we decided go up to Lake Biwa. The Torii at Shirahige Jinja is one of the most scenic spots of Lake Biwa.
Lake Biwa or Biwa-ko is largest freshwater lake in Japan. Located in Shiga, it is approximately 60 km long from north to south. Because of its proximity to the old capital, Kyoto, references to Lake Biwa appear frequently in Japanese literature and particularly in poetry.
The legend of Biwa-ko
The name of the lake originates from the Biwa, a Japanese musical instrument that resembles the shape of the lake. The name Biwako was established sometime in the Edo Period. There are various theories about the origin of the name Biwako, but it is generally believed to be so named because of its resemblance of its shape to that of the stringed instrument.
Lake Biwa is said to be of tectonic origin. It is one of the oldest of the twenty “ancient lakes” of the world and can be traced back to more than 4 million years. This long uninterrupted age has allowed for a notably diverse ecosystem to evolve in the lake. UNESCO, through its Ramsar Convention, helps with the ecological conservation of some 1,100 species living in and around the lake.
Travelling in Japan is a breeze with the smallest of towns connected with trains. However, it is expensive and we used the Seishun 18 pass for our travel to Shiga. We took the JR train from Nara to Kyoto. At Kyoto we changed to a local train on the Kosei Line towards Lake Biwa.
After Otsukyo Station, the train line runs parallel to the lake and one can enjoy the views of the blue lake for the rest of the way, provided you sit towards the right of the coach. Created by a structural depression and fed by small rivers flowing from the encircling mountains, the lake looks endless. From the large window of the train, I could see snow on top of some of the mountains on the far side the lake. From Kyoto it takes about an hour to reach the Omi-Takashima Station where we got down. The Torii at Shirahige Jinja is about 30 minute walk from here.
As you get out of the station, the first thing you notice is the huge Omi-Takashima Gulliver Monument. I later found out that there is a Gulliver’s village for small people some 12 km away from the station.
For those interested, there is a Gulliver's Town some 10 kms away
We made our way towards the Shirahige shrine on foot. The area was desolate and devoid of any humans. A few minutes into the walk we came across the Otomega Pond. We walked across a very creative bridge over the Otomega-ike pond.
At the edge of the park is the Otomegaike Pond
Various small homes inhabited by local fishermen are strewn along the banks of the pond, surrounded by rice fields. Right after crossing the pond we were at the Nishi-Oumi Highway. A small tunnel below the expressway took us across to the banks of Lake Biwa. As we walked along the concrete bank we passed a few locals parked there trying their hand at fishing.
Lake Biwa near Omi-Takashima Station
The view was clear and amazing. I could see the majestic, snow-clad Mt. Ibuki in a distance across the blue waters of the lake. In addition to its fresh water pearl history, Lake Biwa has great scenic spots, cycling paths, temples and shrines and farmlands. The lake also supplies water to some 14 million residents around and downstream of the lake. The sole outlet, the Yodo River, flows from Lake Biwa’s southern tip to Osaka Bay.
Mani at Lake Biwa
A few meters ahead the concrete path gave way to a sandy beach. The white sand looked like we were on one of the beautiful beaches of Mauritius. It was a bit tough walking as our shoes dug into the semi wet sand. As we walked on, the beach became wider. It turns out this part of the beach is the Shirohigehamasuiei Camping Ground. Towards the rear of this beautiful beach there is a thick grove of pine trees.
It was late afternoon by the time we reached the sandy beach of Lake Biwa
Beyond the pine trees, the beach suddenly ends and we had to move over to a side-walk along the expressway. The vehicles were going at a frightening speed. Dusk was setting in so we picked up our pace. After a few minutes, Mani pointed out to the Torii in the lake. We took a break here and took some pictures with the dying sun setting the sky on fire from its reflection.
Sunset over Lake Biwa
After a few minutes we continued our walk towards the Shirahige Jinja. In all it took us 40 minutes to walk to the shrine. Light was fading fast and the gate was lit up by a couple of beaming lights. We descended down to the lake by a flight of stairs. The water had receded a bit in the low tide, revealing a small bit of sandy bank.
Sunset over Lake Biwa
We stood there for some time bathing in the surreal surrounding. Surrounded by mountains, thick forest and beaches, the area is truly relaxing. It is said, the monk, Ikkyu, the most well-known zen master in Japan, had his moment of enlightenment on Lake Biwa.
The sun was just setting as we reached Shirahige Jinja
Torii at Shirahige Jinja at Night
As night set in, the Torii was lit up in glowing light.
The beautiful Torii at Shirahige Jinja. The sun had set and the illumination cast a magical glow on the gate.
It was dark when we started our back to the Station. Chatting away about the glistening magnificence of Biwa-ko, we made our way back. It was truly another unforgettable experience.
Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I hike deep into the woods of Kasugayama Primeval Forest.
During my recent visits to Japanese Buddhist temples, I have been fascinated by the two fierce-looking Nio protectors guarding the gates at each one of them. These pair of protectors, one on either side of the entrance, are diverse in styles, but each of them with their bare-chested bodies rippling with muscles, fierce visages, and brandishing weapons, seem violent and threatening.
These Nio guardians are named, each after a particular cosmic sound. If you look closely at these mythical shrine protectors, you will notice that one of them has its mouth open while the other has its mouth closed. The open-mouth figure is commonly placed to the right of the temple and is known as Agyo, who is uttering the sound “ah,” meaning birth. Its closed-mouth partner generally stands to the left of the temple and is called Ungyo, pronouncing the sound “un” meaning death. The closed-mouth Nio is supposed to stop the evil from entering the temple while the open-mouth Nio welcomes the good spirits inside.
Origins of Nio
Buddhism began in India, and then became part of Chinese culture. Around 550 AD it was introduced into Japan via Korea. This non-native religion gradually became an important part of Japanese culture during the Nara period (710-790 AD), especially among the aristocracy.
The Nio guardians were introduced to Japan around the 8th century. The oldest standing statues of the two, date back to 711 AD, located at Horyuji Temple ( 法隆寺) in Nara.
The Nio guardians are said to originate from Hindu deities who were adopted by the Japanese into Buddhist teachings. In Buddhism they are regarded as protectors against evil spirits. The Nio’s fierce and threatening appearance is said to ward off evil spirits and keep the temple grounds free of demons. The most famous Nio in Japan can be found at the entrance gate of Todaiji Temple (東大寺) in Nara. These 26-feet-tall statues were made in 1203 AD, reportedly under the direction of the famous sculptors Unkei and Kaikei.
At Shinto shrines, however, the Nio guardians are replaced with a pair of Koma-Inu (Shishi Lion-Dogs) or with two foxes. These mythical shrine guardians are also depicted with similar postures – one mouth open, one closed.
Legends & Myths
The word Nio itself is said to mean “Benevolent Kings” and in some Japanese historical accounts, they were said to have followed and protected Buddha on his travels throughout India. Being an Indian, though I haven’t read anything along these lines in Indian historical records.
According to another Japanese mythology, there once was a king who had two wives. His first wife bore a thousand children who all decided to become monks and follow the Buddha’s law. His second wife had only two sons. The youngest was named Non-o and helped his monk brothers with their worship. The eldest, Kongo Rikishi (金剛力士), however, had a much more aggressive personality. He vowed to protect the Buddha and his worshipers by fighting against evil and ignorance.
Kongo Rikishi is considered to be the first of the heavenly kings, called Nio. Within the generally pacifist traditions of Buddhism, stories of Nio guardians like Kongo Rikishi justified the use of physical force to protect the cherished values and beliefs against evil. Many fragments of the Japanese mythology are unmistakably Indian. Kongo Rikishi, according to Japanese conception used to ride a mythical creature called Karura, very similar to Garuda, the magical bird from Ramayana in Indian mythology. Garuda is said to be the mount of the Lord Vishnu.
Conceived as a pair, the Nio complement each other. In other records the Nio are also referred to as Misshaku Kongo & Naeren Kongo. Misshaku Kongo, representing power in action, bares his teeth and raises his fist in action, while Naeren Kongo, representing potential might, holds his mouth tightly closed and waits with both arms tensed but lowered. In some ways they remind me how the Indian gods, Shiva & Vishnu, compliment each other. What is another hint of Indian influence is that Naeren sounds very much like Narayan in Sanskrit, which in Hindu mythology refers to Vishnu. My wife, Mani has done a thorough research on the connection between Indian Gods and Japanese mythology. Jump to this link if that interests you.
Nio Guardians Features
The features of the Nio guardians have been skillfully exaggerated by artists. Bulging muscles in their huge chests and arms communicate power. Their drapery always depicted as swirling around them like a dragon engulfing its prey. The exaggerated depiction continues in their extended jaws, and facial expressions. The Nio’s bulging eyes, furrowed brows, flaring nostrils, and distorted grimaces bring their faces to life. Their hair, flying in the wind, pulled tightly into topknots, adds to their imposing height.
How the Nio sculptures were created
The vast majority of Nio are made out of wood and are usually housed in their own gate houses to protect them from the weather.The Nio guardians were created by a joined woodblock carving technique called Yosegi. Hinoki, or Japanese cypress, a wood that ages remarkably well, was used. Each Nio is created from many pieces of wood pegged together with iron clamps and nails. This allowed the artists to create monumental figures with dynamic poses. The seams along the joints were covered with fabric or paper. The surface was then covered with layers of Gesso, (baked seashells and water) and black lacquer. Note that not all Nio sculptures are painted. The ones that are, have immense details such as the pupils of the eyes and the decorative pattern on the drapery.
Nio Guardians at Todai-ji, Nara
Todai-ji was built in the eighth century by imperial order in the ancient capital city of Nara, as a symbol of Japan’s emergence as an important center for Buddhist culture. The complex includes a huge bronze statue of a seated Buddha, housed inside the Daibutsen, claimed to be the world’s largest wooden building. The Nio at this temple were erected after parts of the temple were destroyed by warring clans in the 12th century.
Many art historians regard the two sculptures at Todai-ji, as the greatest works of two of Japan’s greatest sculptors, Unkei and Kaikei. They are impressive for their size and the technological hurdles that their 13th-century creators had to overcome. They were carved during the Kamakura Period (1192-1333) Each statue is over eight meters tall and weighs close to seven tons. Recently the Nio sculptures were repaired at a cost of 19 million yen ($187,500).
The Agyo Nio Guardian at Todai-ji
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The Agyo Nio Guardian at Todai-ji welcomes the good spirits inside the temple
It was an interesting week for me researching through the history of Nio Guardians. I hope you find it interesting too. Leave your comments below and let me know if there is something I missed.
For some extra fun on New Years weekend we had traveled to the renowned prefecture of Hiroshima from Nara. We were staying at the lovely Hiroshima Garden Palace Hotel. The all day travelling from the day before had sapped us of our energy so we woke up late. In the afternoon, we decided to visit the magnificent Miyajima Island, I had heard so much about.
Miyajima is a small island located less than an hour away from the city of Hiroshima. Located in the Seto Inland Sea, ten miles southwest of the Hiroshima, the island is sacred for both Shinto and Buddhist practitioners. The island’s real name is Itsukushima (厳島), but it is known more by its popular nickname of Miyajima which means “Shrine Island”.
Before heading to Miyajima, we dropped by at the Hiroshima Castle for a few minutes. We didn’t have the luxury of time so we decided to go inside on our next visit.
Hiroshima Castle
At the castle grounds you can find a bunch of eateries selling local delicacies. We took an early lunch of fries with Takoyaki and Yakitori in one of the many food stalls. After the sumptuous brunch, we took the train from JR Hiroshima station to Miyajimaguchi.
Early brunch of Takoyaki near Hiroshima Castle
The train was crowded with tourists. Many, like us had come down to Hiroshima during the new years extended weekend. From the Miyajimaguchi station we walked down to the ferry. There are no bridges connecting Miyajima to the mainland and ferries are the only way to reach the island.
The ferries from Miyajimaguchi are run by JR and Matsudai at frequent intervals. The trip takes about 10 minutes and costs ¥180 each way. Japan Rail Pass holders can use the JR ferry for free.
As we reached the ferry station, one of the Matsudai ferries was readying to leave in a few minutes. We hurriedly purchased the round trip ferry tickets that cost us ¥360 per head and ran towards the pier to catch it. Once on the ferry, all seats were taken. Almost out of breath, we found an empty spot to stand near in the bottom deck. The ferry left in a couple of minutes. As we left the dock, we passed one of JR ferries, coming back from the island, carrying tourists back to the mainland.
The Matsudai Ferry runs every 15 minutes
It was a hazy day. We watched the sea as the ferry made its way amidst gentle waves. Even though it was afternoon, the bay was shrouded in mist.
Hiroshima Bay
As we got down from the ferry, we were surprised by the presence of this huge crowd on the island. There were queues everywhere. Food vendors on the roadsides were overwhelmed by the patrons. The souvenir shops were over-run by hordes of tourists. I have never witnessed such busy crowds in Japan, anywhere.
Miyajima is considered as a very holy place by the Japanese. In 806 AD, the monk Kōbō Daishi established Mt. Misen as an ascetic site for the Shingon sect of Buddhism. In the years since, the island’s Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines have existed in close harmony. In the past, the conservatives would not allow women on the island. The old people would be moved elsewhere to die, to keep the spiritual purity of the site, unspoiled.
Ferry to Miyajima Island
We took the path to our right, walking along the seafront promenade towards the Itsukushima Shrine. On the way , I was also surprised by the large presence of deer on the island. In addition to its many beautiful temples, Miyajima Island is also famous for its freely roaming deer, many of which mingle with tourists and pilgrims walking around the temples. In Shinto religion, the deer are said to be sacred and considered messengers of the Gods. But they are very naughty unlike their kin in Nara. One of them grabbed the paper map dangling from my cargo pocket and almost ate it. I had to really tug hard to make it give me back my property.
Miyajima Dock
After walking down the path for a few minutes we were in front of the famous Miyajima Torii. The Torii (gate) was standing in the blue waters of the sea. Standing in the bay in front of the shrine, the floating Torii is the gate to Itsukushima. The Itsukushima shrine was just up ahead standing in the water as if floating on the sea. The tide had started to recede and part of the wooden stilts were showing below the shrine complex. Make sure when visiting Miyajima to go during higher tide, to view the Great Torii while it’s surrounded by water.
The first record of Itsukushima Shrine in Japanese history was in the Nihon Koki dated 811
Itsukushima Shrine is a Shinto Shrine considered to be the boundary between the spirits and human world. Long before Buddhism came to Japan in the 5th century AD, Shinto sages lived as hermits in these mountain’s forested hills. This UNESCO World Heritage Site with its red-lacquered complex of halls and pathways on stilts, was originally so built so the commoners could visit the shrine without defiling the island with their footprints.
The shrine was flooded with enthusiastic tourists and we decided to stay away. I hate crowds. Places like these have a peaceful aura around them, you cannot feel that, surrounded by maddening crowds. We decided to walk around the area and come back later in the evening, hoping the crowds would disperse by then.
Ranita and Viki at Miyajima Island
The beach looked inviting so we grabbed some prawn tempura and sat there watching the ducks swimming with the waves. While sitting on the beach, I noticed one of the deer grab a bag of food from a tourist. However the innocent deer was also eating away the plastic bag. I immediately ran and tugged the plastic away from the foolish creature. In spite of a feeding ban, tourists inadvertently feed them, which eventually results in a painful death for the deer.
After enjoying the tempura we wandered inland up the hill. After a few minutes, we reached the Hokoku Shrine, hidden within the trees at the edge of a hill. The inner part of this shrine, known as the Senjokaku, was constructed by the fabled Japanese warrior Hideyoshi Toyotomi for the souls of the warriors who died in war. Parts of the building, such as the ceiling and front entrance, remain unfinished because of the untimely demise of Hideyoshi. Just adjacent to Senjokaku, stands the vermilion colored five-storied pagoda built in 1407.
Hokoku Shrine was built in 1587 in order to console the souls of those who died at war
We took some photos outside the shrine and then walked towards Omotesando Street. This is the main shopping street on Miyajima Island. It is filled with gift shops, restaurants, coffee shops, ice cream shops, candy stores, art and historical artifacts. The place was like a carnival. People were enjoying themselves.
The busy Omotesando Street has many souvenir shops and restaurants
Mani took me to the Kimono shop she visited way back in 2011. She was excited finding the shop was still there. We bought some souvenirs from the shops. Mani bought me a box of cookies.
Shopping on Omotesando Street in Miyajima
You can get a good taste of the culture of Hiroshima from hanging out on this street. The area is like a maze of narrow streets.
The narrow streets in the old town of Miyajima are a maze
Soon we reached the docks again. We had gone round a full circle without knowing. It was 4 pm. We went back towards the Itsukushima shrine hoping it would be less crowded by then.
The Torii looked lovely in the evening. Most tour groups were gone and sanity had been restored to the peaceful shrine. We walked towards the entrance of the shrine. The deer were still at it, harassing tourists for food. It was evening already and dusk was gradually creeping in. I captured the dying sun as it set behind the ancient forests of Mt. Misen. The battle between the sun and the darkness didn’t last long. As it grew dark, the shrine was lit up in golden light from the lanterns lining the seafront.
The beautiful sunset at Miyajima Island is ranked as one of three best views of Japan
Once the Sun was gone, the sky turned a beautiful blue. I set up the tripod to capture the Torii in this beautiful light. After taking some photos, we hurried along to the shrine, which was still open. The entry to the shrine cost us ¥300 per head. The Treasure Hall costs another ¥500, but we weren’t that interested in going inside.
The present Torii was built in 1875, and is the eighth Otorii in history
Miyajima’s primary temple, the Itsukushima Shrine, was first constructed in 593 CE and later enlarged to its present size in 1168. The complex of buildings includes the main shrine, several subsidiary temples and even a Noh drama and dance stage.
Weddings are occasionally held at the shrine. The shrine is dedicated to three Shinto goddesses of the sea, Ichikishima, Tagori, and Tagitsu, each of whom is believed to live within the inner sanctum of the shrine. No metal nails were used in the construction of the buildings and there are precisely calculated crevices between the floor slabs in order to alleviate the pressure of high tidal waves caused by typhoons.
These boards were brought to Miyajima from hundreds of miles away in northern Japan
Some of the ancient wooden planks used for flooring are 1.5 meters wide and over 10 meters long, and these enormous boards were laboriously brought down to Miyajima from hundreds of miles away in northern Japan. One of the bridges leading to the shrine is known as the Soribashi or Imperial Envoy’s Bridge. Constructed in 1557, it was used by court nobles sent to Itsukushima by the Emperor.
Miyajima Torii at Dusk
It was dark by then. In some distance on the hill, we could see the illuminated Pagoda. The stone lanterns were all lit and appeared like pearls along the circumference of the island. There are many smaller shrines positioned at intervals around the 19-mile circumference of the island. There are no roads to most of these shrines and pilgrims use small boats to approach these temples.
The five storied vermilion pagoda was built in 1407 and skillfully combines both Japanese and Chinese styles
The beautiful Torii gate, standing in the sea and leading to the Itsukushima shrine was glowing in the darkness. The present Torii, the eighth that was constructed since the Heian period (794-1192), was built in 1875 with the wood of camphor trees. It is 16 meters tall, the roof is 24 meters long, and the main pillars are made from single trees. During the mid-July Kangensai music festival, colorfully decorated boats are sailed through the giant gate while dancers aboard the boats perform classical sacred dances.
The receding tide had revealed the base of the Torii. We got down onto the beach and walked up to the Torii.
The O-Torii (Grand Torii Gate), which stands in the sea about 16.8 meters in height is built of decay-resistant camphor wood
The island has many more attractions including Daisho-in Temple and an Aquarium, but I think to see all that one should stay back at the island for a night. It is not possible to cover all these in a single day. It was almost 8 pm by the time we left on the ferry back to the mainland. Note that from Miyajimaguchi, The last ferry leaves for the mainland at 10.14 pm.
It was an interesting day. We missed some places like the Daisho-in Temple but we also had a lot of fun in the streets of Miyajima and enjoyed many local delicacies. The island town still retains a classic Edo-era look. Deer wander freely through the streets and parks. Though some modern buildings have snuck in, the seafront promenade and the shrine look magical, especially later in the day when the rampaging tourists head home and the stone lanterns are lit.
Miyajima Island can be reached only via ferries. It takes about 10 minutes by ferry to travel from Miyajimaguchi pier to the world cultural heritage site of Miyajima. Two ferry companies operate between Miyajimaguchi and Miyajima island: the JR ferry and the Miyajima Matsudai Kisen.
We decided to do something different this new year eve. We walked down to Todai-ji at midnight to usher in the new year with the blessings of the great Daibutsu. Todai-ji is the largest of the Seven Great Temples of Nara and one of the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara“.
The roads were lit and the streets were empty. Nothing new for someone who has lived in Nara even for a short amount of time. Once we reached the Nara Park area, we could see some families walking towards the temple. A group of deer were gathered under the street lights.
We came across some deer while walking towards Todaiji
The narrow road comes directly up to the temple from behind. As we reached the Todaiji grounds, the crowd became denser. The regular gate that is used for entry for tourists was closed. The caretakers were preparing to open the imposing main gate. Generally the main gate remains closed and visitors have to use the two smaller side gates on each side. A huge queue had formed in front of the main gate. It looked like all of Nara had descended to the temple. It was still not midnight. We went towards the back of the queue and took our positions. We waited patiently for the clock to strike, midnight. The gate was opened to the public exactly at midnight and they started letting people in to the courtyard.
New Years Eve in Nara
Once we went through the gate, the horned roof of the Daibutsuden is the first thing that comes into view. People gradually made their way to the Daibutsu Hall. Todaiji houses the Nara Daibutsu, a gigantic bronze statue completed around 757. It took 9 years and an enormous manpower of 2 million workers working together to complete this magnificent statue. In the dark my Nikon D7100 was struggling to take photos. Mani was having better luck with her Sony Alpha 6000. It does offer better results in low light.
Tōdaiji Nakamon Gate at night
Over the years, the main wooden building and the statue have been damaged by fire and natural calamities several times. Each time it was repaired keeping the authenticity of the place intact. As we got closer, we could see the Buddha face clearly from the windows on the upper floor. It is one of the motivations for the huge crowd. The upper floor windows are opened rarely and on very important occasions. People come from afar just to see Buddha’s face from these windows.
Todaiji Temple in Nara is the world's largest wooden building. The face of Buddha can be witnessed from outside only on very few important days of the year
I fished out my zoom lens and took a closer shot of the face. This was taken handheld as tripods are not allowed to be set up inside the premises.
The upper doors, in front of the face of the Great Buddha, is opened only during New Year and some religious days in Nara
On both sides of the wide path, there were several bonfires in tub like apparatus. It was cold and we waited near one of the bonfires for the initial crowd to disperse.
Once the crowd was sparse, we went towards the Daibutsuden Hall. It has begun to drizzle. Rain had been forecast and so we had brought along our waterproof jackets.
I have been inside the Daibutsuden before but on entering the dimly lit main hall, one can’t, but be overwhelmed over and over again by the 15 meter high, gilt bronze statue sitting on sacred lotus leaves. The blackened statue depicts Rushana, also known as Dainichi Nyorai or the Cosmic Buddha.
Inside the Daibtusuden Hall at midnight. The designer of the original Buddha was a Korean artist from the Paikche Kingdom, Kuninaka-no-Kimimaro.
After paying respects, we walked out. At the main gate, the queue was no more, but there was still a steady stream of enthusiasts who wanted so see the face of the Buddha through the upper doors. I set up my tripod and took some pictures of the entrance gate.
Near the Nakamon Gate, there is a small pond and Todai-ji looked amazing from there.
The illuminated Todaiji from the pond just outside the temple
Everything about Todaiji is huge. It has a long history and many stories attached to it. Every time I come and see the huge Daibutsuden Hall, I feel really small. We were supposed to leave for Hiroshima at dawn, so we left early for home. Nara Park with its herds of deer and the Todaiji make for an amazing night. If you are around Kyoto or Osaka, do take out a day to visit this lovely place.
Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked my post. I also visited Todaiji during the day time some time back. You may find useful information if you are planning a visit.
