Journals

A Winters Tale II – Pelling

Travel creates memories that last a lifetime. As we left the outskirts of Gangtok, we were both still immersed in thoughts of the lovely time we spent at Changu Lake. On our drive to Pelling, we planned to take a longer route going through Namchi, which is renowned for its beautiful tea gardens. Our driver, Vishnu, a very charming Nepali chap, made our trip to Pelling even more entertaining. All through the next three days, he kept us entertained with his jolly stories. I am going to leave his phone # below in the faqs, so anyone interested can contact him.

Temi Tea Gardens, Ravangla

We reached Temi Tea Gardens at around 11 a.m. The drive to Temi took us through lush green mountain slopes lined with ferns. The beautifully landscaped and manicured tea garden is a visual treat. The fascinating beauty of the tea plantation along-with with 180-degree views of Mt. Kangchenjunga thrilled us to no end. A plaque mentioned that the tea garden is run by the Government of Sikkim and they have done a fascinating job.

The tea from these gardens carries a premium the world over for its exotic flavor. We each had a cup of tea at the only shop around. Mani bought a couple of flavors including one Oolong flavor. Vishnu volunteered to take a few pictures of the picturesque gardens behind us.

In February, the Namchi Garden hosts an annual flower show. The prime attraction of this show is the display of exotic and rare orchids. After a lovely cup of tea, we drove on to our next destination: Samdruptse.

Padmasambhava, Samdruptse

From Temi, we headed towards Samdruptse hill in Namchi. We drove about an hour along winding roads to reach the Samdruptse hill. In the local Bhutia language, Samdruptse translates into “wish-fulfilling hill.” We got down at the gate and started walking towards the top. A few minutes into the path, we could see the gigantic statue of Guru Padmasambhava in a meditation pose. At 120 ft tall, it is said to be the highest statue of Guru Padmasambhava in the world. The statue has a fleet of stairs from where one can climb upward to a platform near the statue’s lap. There is a brick Chorten on the side. In front of the giant statue is another smaller statue of Padmasambhava in a different avatar. We stayed there for some time looking at the masterpiece against the beautiful blue sky.

There is a small room towards the right. Inside some devotees were lighting butter lamps. A lamp offering carries the wish to attain Buddha-hood and the aspiration to recognize the clear light at the time of death. We joined them in lighting the lamps. We later came to know that for each lamp you light, one has to pay Rs. 10.00. as donation. By that time we had already lit 35 lamps 🙂

We would have loved to spend some more time here but we moved on as we still had a lot of distance to cover for Pelling.

Solophok Chardham Temple Complex, Namchi

Char Dham complex is situated about 5 km from the town of Namchi on Solophok Hill. However one should not assume the time to travel based on the distance in the hills. It took us over an hour to reach the Char Dham complex. From here if one looks hard, one can see the Guru Padmasambhava on Samdruptse hill in the distance. The principal deity at the Char Dham complex is Lord Shiva. It is believed that during the battle of Kurukshetra, Arjuna came here to worship Lord Shiva.

It is also believed that Shiva, pleased with Arjuna, appeared before him in the guise of a hunter and blessed him. The complex contains the 12 Jyotirlingas, four miniature replicas of the Char Dhams and a huge Nandi bull. The sprawling complex also has arrangements for staying over at the Yatri Niwas Guest House. Bags are not allowed inside and I had a hard time convincing the security at the gate that the backpack I was lugging around was just a camera bag.

The complex has high security and one has to leave the bags outside. I had a hard time convincing security that the backpack I was carrying was a camera bag. Eventually, he did allow me in. We walked around the huge complex for some time. The whole complex was so clean, it felt I wasn’t in India anymore. Near the exit, one can find numerous shops selling souvenirs. As we headed back towards the car, we bought some key chains from one of them.

Buddha Park, Ravangla

Buddha Park is a fairly new addition to the tourist places. It was recommended to us by the guide/driver who took us to Changu Lake and we were not disappointed. The Buddha Park hosts a stunningly beautiful statue of Sakyamuni Buddha. This was the third huge statue we had seen that day. The park area is beautifully landscaped with ample walkways and space for visitors to enjoy the serene surroundings. Set in a picturesque location, the park offers an unmatched view of the Khangchendzonga range just behind the towering Buddha statue and the spiritual ambiance of the location adds to the tranquility.

There is a temple below the statue. Unfortunately, cameras are not allowed inside. As I entered,  I felt peace. Right in the center of the room is a life-sized golden idol of Buddha. A flight of circular stairs leads up to the second floor. The walls are covered in paintings depicting moments in Buddha’s life that eventually led him towards attaining true spirituality.

We roamed around the park. Towards the rear of the temple, some sections were still under construction. We didn’t want to leave, but the sun was setting and we still had to cover some 3 hrs drive to Pelling, so off we went reluctantly.

Hotel Elgin, Mt. Pandim

As we neared Pelling, the roads became worse, filled with potholes. Sun sets early in these eastern Hills and by the time we reached Pelling, it was totally dark at around 6 p.m. We went directly to the Hotel Elgin Mount Pandim. It’s on the top of a hill. We were in for a big surprise as we checked in. The Hotel was royalty. The lounge looked like a palatial living room.

A couple of fireplaces kept us warm in the breezy evening. Later I discovered that its previous owners were the royal family of Sikkim and the palace had been converted to a Hotel.

The rooms were luxurious. Beside the bed is a huge window. As I pulled the curtains, we were thrilled to see the magnificent Singalila range bathing in the moonlight. The food at the Hotel was lip-smacking. I can safely rate Hotel Elgin Mount Pandim as one of the more exotic hotels we have stayed in.

Day 2

Pemayangtse Monastery

I woke up early at dawn to watch the Singalila range during sunrise. It was magnificent to watch the orange rays of the sun creeping over the mountains as small pockets of clouds went past. A couple of foreigners were there along with cameras & tripods, catching the memorable view of the mountains. The view of the Kanchenjunga from this Hotel is the best one can get.

The three-hundred-year-old Pemayangtse Monastery is right next to the resort on the hilltop overlooking the Rebdentse ruins. The closeness of the monastery to our hotel was the main reason for staying at Hotel Elgin. One can just walk to the Pemayangtse in 5 minutes while the Rabdanste ruins are at a 10-minute drive.

The second oldest monastery of Sikkim and the headquarters of the Nyingmapa order of Tibetan Buddhism, Pemayangtse Monastery sits atop a ridge high above the Rangit river, surrounded by the brilliant snow-capped Himalayan peaks. The history of the monastery reads that it was founded in the 17th century by Lhatsun Chempo, one of the three lamas of the Yoksum and further expanded by his re-incarnate in the initial years of the 18th century. The monastery draws its name from “padma yang tse” which literally translates into the “sublime perfect lotus.”

A long line of fluttering prayer flags will welcomed us as we went up the hill. The three-storied monastery houses some wonderful paintings and other artwork. It also has a large collection of rare books. Photography is prohibited inside. On the top floor is a huge wooden miniature depiction of monks and monasteries.

Kanchenjunga Waterfall

From the top of Mt. Pandim, we drove down into the pleasant little town of Pelling. On the way to Kanchenjunga waterfall, we passed the Sewaro Rock Garden. I had listed it on our scheduled places to visit in Pelling, but it looked in ruins from lack of maintenance. On the way we also passed a few Orange groves laden with the citrus fruits. Beside one of the groves, few children were selling the freshly plucked fruit on the roadside. They were the tangiest Oranges I have ever tasted.

After an hours drive we finally reached Kanchenjunga waterfall. We had to park the car at a sharp curve some distance away. From there we had to walk up the stairs to reach the waterfall. Some local boys were helping tourists, making their way over some treacherous stones towards the waterfall. The main waterfall is surrounded by the hill on three sides. With so many tourists it was hard to move around. The Waterfall was flowing in full force and we were getting wet just by the thick droplets in the air. My camera lens was getting so foggy and it was impossible to take any pictures.

Kha-Chot-Palri Lake

We drove on towards the Khecheopalri village. Kha–Chot–Palri is estimated to be 3500 years old and means heaven of Guru Padmasambhava. It is believed to be a wish-fulfilling lake. The Lepchas, the main ethnic group of the village refer to is as “Sho Dzo Sho” Lake.

We got down at the main gate. There are some small shops around from where yo can grab some food. From here there is about a fifteen minutes walk through a lovely tropical forest. There is a Chorten along the way. Beside the path, on the rocky walls there are scattered Tibetan inscriptions. As we reached the lake I saw a small shrine where one can offer prayers. According to local folklore, the  leaves are not allowed to float on the lake. The birds in the vicinity, pick them up as soon as they drop on the lake surface. There is a jetty that leads to the front of the lake and from where prayers are offered. Prayer wheels are fixed along the jetty. The jetty was very crowded and we just stayed at the edge of the lake. Prayer flags are everywhere. After spending some time here we headed back to the hotel.

Back at the Hotel, they had some very interesting menu lined up for Lunch. I have already forgotten the names of the dishes, but they sounded very French.

Rabdentse Ruins

After taking some rest, we left the Hotel at around 4 p.m. From the hotel, it barely takes 10 minutes to reach the entrance to Rabdentse. The ruins lie hidden from the main road within a dense foliage of Oak trees. Rabdenste was once the seat of the power in Sikkim for more than a hundred years. Today, the ruins of this ex-capital of Sikkim are just a tourist attraction.

We got down at the ornamental yellow gate and walked along a narrow uphill path towards the once flourishing palace that used to be the abode of Sikkim monarchs. It’s a long walk but there are plaques along the path that kept us telling the distance renaming till the ruins. I assume, we walked around a kilometer to reach the palace ruins. Towards the end of the path, the beautiful forest slowly merges into the palace courtyard.

There was a sign that said we needed to buy tickets to enter, but there was no one at the counter, so we moved ahead. A few paces further, we saw the ‘Taphap Chorten‘ in semi ruined condition. Just beside it is a is a stone plaque with information on the history of Rabdentse. This was the entry point to the Palace and in historical times, visitors seeking access to the palace had to dismount from their horses here. The capital city was destroyed by the invading Gurkha army and only the ruins of the palace and the chortens can be seen here now.

The palace ruins are at the center of the courtyard. Next to the ruins of the palace are three Chortens. The members of the royal family used to offer prayers to the deities at these Chortens. Surprisingly, the chortens still are in a fair state of preservation. The Archaeological Survey of India has declared Rabdentse as a heritage monument and has undertaken the needed preservation and restoration measures.

Day 3

Transfer to Bagdogra

We had an early breakfast and started by 9 a.m. for Bagdogra. Our flight was at 5 p.m. and the Vishnu, the driver had informed us that it will take at-least six hours to reach. He also mentioned that due to construction on the road, there could be minor stoppages along the way too. Pelling to Bagdogra is not a popular route, so when I asked him, he told us that the last time he drove on this road was three years back. True to his sources, we had to stop for half an hour along a stretch where the hill was being cut to make the road wider. Big boulders were falling from above, some large enough to smash a car into a pancake. They stopped for a while. The road was cleared of the boulders by a crane and we were off.

It was a 3 hour rocky journey till we joined the NH31A highway.  The Teesta with its flowing green water kept me wide-eyed all the way. There were numerous times I wanted to stop and admire the bends and curves but we didn’t have the luxury of time. Once we crossed into West Bengal, the roads were a lot better. We saw some monkeys on the sides of the road. The tourists probably feed them and they were dangerously walking on the road where generally cars were traveling at 60-80 km/hr.

On the way we stopped for a break at the City Center Mall near the airport. It’s a huge mall almost similar in design to the City Center 2 in Kolkata. We grabbed some food there and then headed to the airport. On arrival to the airport as we were checking in, we were informed that the flight was delayed by 40 mins. We used that time to check out the airport shops. By 6 p.m., with some pleasant memories, we were on our way back to Kolkata.

What is the best time to visit Pelling?

Pelling is pleasant during December. In mid-December one can see the snow-covered Kanchenjunga mountains. It’s a sight to behold

Which are the important places to see in Pelling?

If you are visiting Pelling, you must also visit Namchi & Ravangla. The Buddha Park in Ravangla is a lovely place with a huge Buddha Statue.
Kanchenjunga WaterFall
Khecheopalri Lake
Orange Gardens

Our driver details

Vishnu was with us for the three days we were in Pelling.
His contact number is +91 9734 181 355
Disclaimer: I loved our travel with him, but I do not accept any responsibility for his actions if you use his services.

A Winters Tale – Gangtok

Our tour to Gangtok starts with us landing in Kolkata. Our plan was to first spend some time with my in-laws and then proceed to the misty mountains.

The next couple of days were a string of delectable meals and stories from yesteryear’s. My sis, who lives in Kolkata, also dropped in for a get together over lunch.

The days passed quickly and it was time for us to leave for Bagdogra. Early morning Spicejet informed us that the flight would be delayed by 3 hrs. In hindsight it should have started the alarm bells ringing since lately they had been cancelling a lot of flights. Even a few months back they had been one of the more dependable carriers in Indian skies.

As we were about to get in the car for our ride to the airport, I discovered that the flight had been cancelled. Initially I thought maybe it could be an error as they had not informed me and probably we were moved to another flight. I tried calling the customer care but couldn’t get through to them. Left with no concrete information, we decided to go to the airport and take it from there.

Once we reached the airport, we were informed at the gate that our flight had indeed been cancelled. We went to the Spicejet counter and found a crowd had already gathered. Not only ours, we heard that all Spicejet flights had been grounded. Our Hotel booking etc. had already been done, so we were desperate. We immediately purchased tickets for the next afternoon to Bagdogra from Indigo Airlines.

We came back the next day. Fortunately, this time everything was fine. Our return flight was also via Spicejet, but with my trust shattered, I decided not to take a chance and purchased a backup return ticket from Indigo.

The flight to Bagdogra from Kolkata is all of 55 mins. Midway through the flight we were blessed to see the mesmerizing Khangchendzonga mountains in the horizon.

The Bagdogra airport is comparatively a lot smaller. We were alerted on the plane itself that photography is strictly prohibited in and around the airport. There was still daylight when we descended. Our travel arrangements for the transfer from the Airport to Gangtok was already done and the driver was waiting for us. The checkout process was quick and we were promptly on our way to Gangtok.

Drive to Gangtok

It was early evening as we started for Gangtok along the NH31A. The driver informed us that  it would take around 4 hours to reach Gangtok. The NH31A highway runs parallel to the Teesta river almost all the way to Gangtok. Though in its current state, the river appeared more of a stream. During my childhood days, I had numerous times heard about the raging Teesta and the destruction it used to cause during the monsoons. Over the years numerous dam constructions on the Teesta by China has converted the raging river into a whimpering stream. Maybe during monsoons it would be more aggressive.

Sunset happens quite early in the East. As twilight started to set in, the hamlets on the hills lit up. In the dark, momentarily I mistook the lights from houses up the hill to be stars. After 4 hours of chugging along rocky roads, we finally reached our hotel, Golden Crescent at around 7 p.m.

Our rooms were ready and we were promptly checked in. The room was huge with fully wooded interiors and floors. The bed was inviting. The bathroom was neat with running warm water. They had also provided us with a room heater though we didn’t need it much. Gangtok was pleasantly cool all throughout our stay. The Wi-Fi was sketchy but good enough. They also provided us with an electronic safe on request. Overall our stay at The Golden Crescent was quite pleasant.

Day 1

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Enchey Gompa

After a good nights rest we started the day with a visit to the nearby Enchey Monastery. This monastery was established in 1909 around a hamlet. Over the years this monastery has grown into an important religious center. According to a legend, Guru Padmasambhava had subdued the spirits of the Khangchendzonga, Yabdean and Mahākāla here.

The monastery is located on a ridge of a hill, northeast of Gangtok city, not more than 30 minutes away. On the way we passed Siniolchu Lodge. Siniolchu Lodge was one of the options we had looked into while deciding on the Hotel to stay in Gangtok, but decided against it since this place is a little far away from the main town and phone/internet connectivity could have been a problem.

We got down at the entrance and walk towards the “Gompa.” The moment I left the car and started along the narrow elevated path, I could feel the serenity of the place. The pathway was lined with colorful prayer flags fluttering on one side. A few steps ahead they gave in to a line of  prayer wheels. The Enchey Gompa also serves as a residence for monks. Like all other Nyingmapa monasteries in Sikkim, this monastery is under the jurisdiction of the Pemayangtse Monastery in Pelling. At the top the view is beautiful with the Khangchendzonga range, looming towards the right of the monastery.

We were lucky to be there at the right time. Prayers were going on as we entered the monastery. The ceiling was adorned with long hanging lamps. There is a golden Buddha statue inside. A group of 12 monks, some in their early teens were sitting at the tables, chanting. There were donation boxes in front of each monk. Mani donated some. We stood there for some time, letting the chants touch us spiritually.

The monastery grounds has another small building on the left of the Gompa. We went around the back looking at the windows of the monastery, strikingly designed and beautiful in colors. After some time we walked down and headed for Rumtek Monastery which was on another hill.

Rumtek Monastery

Rumtek Monastery is located about an hour  (23 kms) from Gangtok and is a good example of Tibetan architecture. Although the monastery was initiated in the mid 1700’s it really came into prominence in 1966 when the 16th Karmapa officially inaugurated the new seat, called “The Dharmachakra Centre.” This monastery also belongs to the Nyingma order and operates under the jurisdiction of the Pemayangtse Monastery.

The gates are guarded by Indian Army and one needs to display ID cards to enter. We had to walk for about 10 mins on an elevated path to reach the monastery. The monastery is perched on a hill overlooking the Khangchendzonga range. There are a number of small roadside shops all along the path, selling Tibetan souvenirs.

The entrance to the monastery leads to a big open area. The main hall is surrounded by corridors on all sides. The left and right corridors also have rooms for the residing monks. Unfortunately, inside the main hall, everything was covered with sheets. Gautama Buddha’s statue at the back was visible but everything else surrounding it was covered. We later discovered that there was going to be a festival in a couple of days and they were preparing for it.

There was not much to see inside the main hall, so we came out. We were allowed to climb up on the terrace of the side corridors. We sat there for a while looking at the Khangchendzonga. One of the younger monks who was a bit curious asked me if what I was carrying was a camera. From what broken Hindi he spoke I could understand how cut off from the real world they remain.

On our way back we stopped at a few shops and got some really fine souvenirs. I bought a couple of prayer wheels for gifting away. Mani bought a turquoise pendant with the Buddhist chant “Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hum” engraved on it. Walkig back I took a few pictures of the Khangchendzonga . We then headed back towards the city.

Do-Drul Chorten

Back in the city, we headed to Do-Drul Chorten. The Do-Drul Chorten was built in 1945 on a hillock and is surrounded by 108 Mani Lhakor or prayer wheels. It is considered to be one of the biggest stupas in Gangtok. We went all around the Chorten, turning all the prayer wheels in clockwise direction. Beside the Chorten is a school for little monks. The Chorten also has a residence buidling nearby for residing monks.

Namgyal Institute of Tibetology

Namgyal Institute of Tibetology is a Tibetan museum just beside the Do-Drul Chorten. The Museum keeps a lot of Tibetan artifacts but it closes quite early at 4 p.m so we had to hurry. The museum showcases rare ritualistic tankhas, brass bells, chortens, rosaries & dorjis. Looking at the artifacts inside, one can easily infer that Guru Padmasambhava is very popular around these parts. There were around 12 idols of him alone in different avatars. Photography is not allowed inside. The idols and the artifacts were so beautiful,  I was almost tempted to bribe the guard.

There is a small book store just outside the Museum. Mani got herself an interesting book on the folk tales of Lepchas, the original inhabitants of Sikkim.

The Winter Carnival on MG Marg

It was evening and the driver dropped us off at MG Marg. It’s the most happening place in Gangtok. At the time of our visit they had a Winter Carnival going on. Youngsters had gathered on the street. Booths selling selling T-shirts, toys and food were everywhere. There was a DJ playing from an open air flat on the first floor facing the road. We looked around for some souvenir shops. Mani was interested in buying a Baku, the traditional dress of Sikkim. There are not many shops that sell the Baku. Eventually, towards the end of the long street, we were lucky to find one. She bought a gorgeous red Baku with dragon embroidery from there.

As we walked back, we passed the Tourist Center office. From here tourists can avail permits for visiting areas maintained by the Indian Army. After all the walking we were famished. Right opposite to the DJ show, was a multi-cuisine restaurant call the “Orient.” We decided to have dinner there. The food was okay. After dinner we walked back to the Hotel. The Hotel is some 20 minutes away from MG Marg, and Google’s Maps easily guided us back to the Hotel.

Day 2

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Changu Lake

Initially we had planned to head for Lachen on day 2, but a combination of heavy snowing and bad roads meant that we could not obtain permission, so we opted to visit Changu Lake instead.

Changu Lake is just about 40 kilometres away from Gangtok, but bad roads stretch the journey to around a couple of hours. There is an Army checkpoint in Gangtok that one has to pass it before 10 a.m or you wont be allowed to go to Changu. The drive to Changu Lake is amazing barring some stretch of under construction roads. As we went up, there is a view-point from where we could see the winding roads leading up to the lake. On the horizon, as far as our eyes could see, there was no end to the misty mountain ranges.

We started to see snow midway on the route. Some might find it surprising but it was the first time I had seen snow in my life outside of the refrigerator. So, let me cross that one off my bucket list. We passed a plaque that announced that we were at 12,400 ft above sea level. The Changu lake is associated with many myths and legends and is revered by the Sikkimese as sacred. When we finally arrived at the parking area, I could not fathom that there would be so many tourists there on a weekday and in an off-season.

As we got down, I could see some Yaks near the parking area. Even though Yaks are not indigenous to this area, some locals bring them here from the North for providing joy rides to visitors. The lake looked gorgeous, but the tourists were loud and jeering on the banks. We decided to go the other way where it was more peaceful. In my opinion, such beauty should be enjoyed in peace.

So we went along the road towards the other end of the lake. Finally, we were alone and enjoying the breathtaking view of the lake. There is so much peace out here. In fact this was the better view of the lake. I made a snow cone and ate it. Let’s cross that one off too from my bucket list 🙂 We found a big rock by the lake and sat there in silence, bathing in the soft sun. Two hours went by like nothing.

The sky looked like a canvas, the clouds, painted with soft brush strokes. The lake was so blue, words fail to describe. The mountains around the lake appeared to be waiting for the next snowfall so they could cover themselves and go to sleep. It felt like one of those place they describe in moth-ridden mythological books about where Gods used to live.

By the time we started our way back, we were a bit hungry. The driver took us to a relative who had a local eatery/souvenir shop. We both had a “Cuppa Maggie.” Mani found a sweet pup to cuddle and I bought a few souvenirs.

MG Marg

After a thrilling ride back from the misty mountains we asked the driver to drop us off at MG Marg. Mani was lusting for another Baku so we we went around the other side of the Market searching for more shops, but couldn’t find any that sold traditional dresses.

After a couple of hours we gave up and went back to the same shop we had been to the day before. After some insistence, the owner brought out some from his hidden stack, he hadn’t shown us previously. Mani instantly fell in love with a lovely purple one. We also saw some others but none as graceful as the purple one. By 8 p.m. we were tired and we started looking for a place to eat.

There are quite a few eateries on MG Marg. As we walked down MG Marg, searching, we saw a restaurant on the first floor called the Golden Dragon. Its a nice place, although the food takes a lot of time to arrive. The joint had a Karaoke going on so that kept us entertained as we waited for the food. In between the singing, a couple of locals joined in for a dance. It was fun!

Day 3

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Hanuman Tok

We woke up to another beautiful morning. The driver told us that the even three days back the city was so shrouded in mist that nothing was visible, but today the Khangchendzonga was so clear, like a post card.

Hanuman Tok is a beautiful temple an hours drive away from central Gangtok. We followed the same path as the one we took to go to Changu Lake, but right at Army checkpoint, we turned left. Hanuman Tok is also managed by a division of the Indian Army and is very neat and clean unlike most temples in India.

Legend has it that Hanuman stopped here for rest while carrying Sanjeevani for injured Laksman, as told in Ramayana. At the base of the temple is a big red, single stone carved statue of Hanuman. We climbed a few stairs to reach the main temple. The temple is situated on the top of the hill with the Kanchenjunga range in the back.

Gangtok is an impressive mixture of culture and history. There are as many monasteries as there are temples. The main temple at the top contains the idols of Sita, Rama and Laksman. There is also a small round room with wall statues of incidents depicted from the Ramayana. Above the room is a round veranda from where one can view the full Kanchenjunga range.

Ganesh Tok

Ganesh Tok is a temple dedicated to Ganesha not far from the Hanuman Tok. The temple itself is just a regular one otherwise and not as enchanting as the Hanuman Tok. However there is a small bazaar at the base of this temple. We bought some nice Ganesh keychains at the base of the temple. One can also rent the local Sikkim dresses here for taking pictures.

Himalayan Zoological Gardens

After enjoying some excellent scenery, we started towards the Himalayan Zoological Gardens. Our driver informed us that its not a very popular place with tourists, but we couldn’t miss not seeing the Red Panda. The Red Panda is such a cute and lovely, we would regret it if we came all this way and didn’t see one.

The park is a huge area and cars are allowed inside for a fee. Our first stop was at the Asiatic Black Bear enclosure. Unfortunately we didn’t see any bears. We were a bit late and probably the animals were getting ready for their afternoon nap. A few feet ahead was the enclosure of Blue Sheep.

The Blue Sheep also known as Bharal , is a high mountain sheep that is the primary prey of Snow Leopards.  Their coat colors camouflage better against the Himalayan rocks and they will often freeze if they sense danger, as they are hard to spot when immobile.

After these two enclosures, we had to get down and walk. The first enclosure we saw was of the Leopard. Although the information board stated it was the Clouded Leopard, I have some doubts that it might be the Common Leopard. He was also taking a nap, but he got up for a few seconds to greet us. and then went back to his nap.

We moved ahead towards the next enclosure. It was the Red Panda and we were very much excited. The enclosure was a huge one, but there was only one Red Panda. The cuddly little red guy with a bushy tail was enjoying some rare sun. With such a huge area, the authorities could well add some more. I am pretty sure lots of animal lovers would love to visit to see this lovely guy. We stayed here for some time watching as the Panda would go inside its small home and come out at intervals.

After taking some pictures we trudged up the hill towards the enclosure of the Leopard Cat. It was the size of a house cat and also looked like one. Just beyond its cage was the enclosure of the Snow Leopard. Mani spotted it as it lay sleeping camouflaged in the dry grass. As we were discussing it, another group arrived with a local guide. To our shock, they suddenly started making weird sounds and started pelting stones towards the sleeping Leopard. We thought they would stop but when they continued, Mani took out her phone and started filming them. When they realized they were being caught on the camera they finally stopped and sheepishly slipped away.

There was another enclosure towards the end of the park with the Tibetan Wolf, but we didn’t see any. We walked back slowly towards the entrance. Beside the entrance, a couple of feet down a stone staircase is a small bird sanctuary. But the cages were so thick, it was hard to enjoy the colorful birds.

[su_icon icon=”icon: info” background=”#f20000″ color=”#ffffff” text_color=”#4a4a4a” size=”14″ shape_size=”10″ radius=”4″ text_size=”18″ ]The Park stays closed on Thursdays[/su_icon]

Tibetan Restaurant

After the fun at the Zoological Park, we headed back to the city. One the way there was a handicrafts emporium, we stopped there, but unfortunately they were already packing up. It was odd to us that shops in Gangtok close very early around 4 p.m. We went ahead towards MG Marg. One the way Mani had noticed a Tibetan shop, so we released the car for the day and went inside. They had some lovely embroidered T-shirts. We each bought t-shirts with “Sikkim” embroidered. Mani also bought some souvenirs for gifting to others. Just beside the shop was a Tibetan Hotel. We hadn’t had lunch so we decided to dive into some authentic Tibetan food. The restaurant has a nice ambiance. When we travel, we love to check out the local delicacies. I ordered the Chicken Thenthuk and loved it. While dining we recalled the delicious Tibetan food we had at the Potala restaurant in Bylakuppe when we had visited Coorg.

After the lunch, we again walked back to our Hotel. We spent rest of the day relaxing and going over the pictures of the lovely places we had been over the last few days.

Day 4

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Drive to Pelling

I woke up early at 4 a.m. My plan was to go to the Tashi View Point to get a glimpse of the blazing golden Kanchenjunga range during sunrise. However as I glanced outside the window, it was too gloomy and foggy to see anything beyond a few meters. So I dropped the plan and went back to sleep.

We had already packed our stuff last night. So I ran a quick check for clothes and stuffs and we were ready to leave for Pelling.

Drive to Pelling

[su_tabs]
[su_tab title=”Faqs”] [su_accordion]
[su_spoiler title=”What is the best time to visit Gangtok?”] Gangtok is pleasant during summers. But winters are not very cold. If you are interested in snow, you must come in mid- December The weather is cool and the skies are so blue. Summer would be a better time if you have plans to visit north Sikkim. In winter months getting permits to North Sikkim become difficult[/su_spoiler]
[su_spoiler title=”Are there other similar places around Gangtok?”] If you are visiting Gangtok, you must also visit Pelling in West Sikkim[/su_spoiler]
[su_spoiler title=”How much time does it take for a tour in Gangtok?”] Sightseeing in Gangtok can be easily covered in 3 days. However one should also visit some nearby cities like Pelling and Yumthang. [/su_spoiler]
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[su_tab title=”Places to see in Gangtok”] Gangtok is a small city with varied cultural interests:

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  • Changu Lake
  • Enchey monastery
  • Rumtek Monastery
  • Hanuman Tok

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Drive to Anegundi

Today we go on a lazy drive to Anegundi, also known as Kishkinda, the legendary ape city of Hanuman and Sugreeva, as told in the epic tale of Ramayana.

Tungabhadra Dam

After the exploits of the day before in Hampi, we were a bit tired and decided to take it easy and just go on a long drive to Anegundi. Along the way, we took a short break at the huge Tungabhadra Dam. We had to park the car at the entrance and take a tour bus to the top. At the top is a small tower. Visitors are not allowed inside the tower. The reservoir is vast. In the mist, it was impossible to make out where it ended. We stayed there at the top for a few minutes. Rather than taking the bus down, we decided to walk back down a flight of stairs through a forest of sorts. After a few minutes, we reached a clearing. From there we hit the main road. Along the way, a couple of ladies were selling some small rounded tangy fruits. They looked like amla, but a bit different. We munched on them as we walked to our car.

Ancient Bridge

On the way to Anegundi, we crossed an ancient broken bridge made of stones that used to connect Hampi with Anegundi during the days of the Vijayanagara empire. Anegundi’s history dates back to the 3rd BCE century when it was a part of Ashoka’s Empire.

We passed Aanjaneya Temple along the way.  I could recall a movie scene shot here on the steps of Aanjaneya Temple in the movie “Myth.” Aanjaneya Temple is believed to be the birthplace of  Hanuman and a famous pilgrim destination. A few kilometers down the road, we turned right into a mud track leading to Pampa Sarovar. The road was tight and on the left was a wall of boulders, maybe 3 stories high, placed so precariously, it felt they could fall down any moment. The pond is surrounded by rocky boulders. According to Ramayana, Sabari a devotee of Rama used to reside here in a cave. There is a small Lakshmi temple here beside the pond. After staying there for some time, we turned back to the main road and went towards the Durga temple.

Navabrindavan, Anegundi

Navabrindavan is located on a small island bang in the middle of the Tungabhadra river. The only way to reach it is to take a ferry or maybe swim 😉 The island is home to the tombs of nine saints,  followers of Madhvacharya.  The nine tombs form a circle, and a yellow line is drawn as a perimeter around them to stop visitors from disturbing the saints at peace in their Samadhi.

The fascination of Anegundi is not just confined to its topology but also for its mythology. A story goes that an angel by the name of Sangukarna used to come here to collect flowers for the puja of Lord Vishnu. He used to be so mesmerized by the beauty of this place that he would often be late for delivering the flowers for the puja in Brahmalok. Angered by this, he was cursed to be born as an Asura by Lord Brahma. The child so born was Prahalad, son of Hiranyakashyap, the demon king. Even though he was born an Asura, Prahalad was a dedicated devotee of Vishnu and spent hours meditating in the cave on this island. Hidden amidst the boulders and hillocks of Anegundi are many more such places with mystical stories. Sites like these must be protected and saved. They have so much to tell about us.

We had to wait for some time for the ferry to come around. A small crowd had gathered and we were afraid, we might have to wait for another round. However, we somehow managed to get a couple of seats. On the way back I got a few snaps of a submerged structure. Why it was there in the middle of the river is beyond me. Even more interesting is that even the raging Tungabhadra had not been able to break down this structure over all these years.

We went back to the car and started our ride back to the Hotel. The beautiful sun was setting behind the boulders by then and even though a part of me wanted to get down and take some pictures, I just sat back to watch and enjoy.

Faqs

How much time does it take to reach Nava Brindavan from Hampi Hyatt Place?

It takes an hour to reach Hospet, where one can take a break. From there it takes another hour to reach Anegundi

What is the best time to visit Nava Brindavan in Anegundi?

During monsoons, the river is flooded and the currents are very strong so visits should be avoided. Any other time should be fine. There is a ferry run by the tourism dept. with life jackets on board.

How much time does it take to climb Aanjaneya Temple?

About an hour at a leisurely pace

The lost city of Hampi

Today we walk among the ruins of an ancient kingdom that time forgot.

The ruins of Hampi

Hampi is an ancient city on the banks of the Tungabhadra River in Hospet taluk of Bellary district in Karnataka. The landscape of this once great city is defined by hundreds of granite boulders, distributed as piles of rocks of different shapes and sizes. But it is not just the unique landscape that has brought me here. The former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire is like an ocean of more than 1600 man-made stone structures, spread over an area of 25 square kilometers. 

Once South India’s wealthiest and most powerful city, it was sacked in 1565 CE by the armies of the Bahamani sultanates. For years, the city lay abandoned until it was rediscovered by the British in the mid-nineteenth century, who went on to loot it further for its priceless ancient statues. In this journal, I will take you on a photo journey of the still preserved 800-year-old temples, market streets, bath pools, watchtowers, palaces, and elephant stables which are sure to take you back in time.

Brief history of Hampi

Hampi used to be the capital of the Vijaynagara Empire where music, art, and sculpture flourished. But long before it was Hampi, it was also Kishkindha, the capital of the mighty warrior Vali. Parts of the Ramanayana have unfolded at various sites around this ancient city. The great sage Madhavacharya – the illustrious commentator of the four Vedas, is also said to have lived on the banks of the Tungabhadra around Hampi.

There are numerous stories about the founding of Hampi. One of the most prominent among them is the tale of brothers Harihara and Bukka Raya, who used to serve under the king of Warangal. Not much is known about them before this time of their life and the stories after, also have their variations.

In the early 14th century CE, South India was subjected to repeated invasions led by the Delhi Sultanate. The Muhammadans had been making inroads into India right from 1001 CE. War followed war, and from that period North India knew no rest. By the end of 13th century, the Mohammedans had begun pressing towards the southern kingdoms. When Warangal was invaded and destroyed in 1323 CE, the brothers fled the kingdom and took service under the chief of Anegundi. Anegundi was not a kingdom, it was a small fortified town, surrounded by lofty hills of granite.

Nicolo, an Italian traveller who visited Vijaynagar in 1420 CE writes about the great city of Bizengali (Bijanagar) situated near very steep mountains. In this city there are estimated to be 90,000 men fit to bear arms.

The brothers were smart and rose in ranks under the service of the chief. Harihara became a Mantri (minister) and his brother Bukka Raya came to be the treasurer under the services of the chief of Anegundi. According to Nuniz, who gives a definitive account of Vijayanagar, Muhammad Tuglaq, having reduced Gujrat, marched southwards through the western ghats and attacked Anegundi. In 1334, Anegundi fell.

Its chief was slain along with all the members of his family. After a futile attempt to govern this territory by means of a deputy, Tuglaq restored the city to the Hindus and promoted the brothers to Rajah and Mantri (minister) respectively.

Harihara Raya is considered the first king of Vijayanagar. He reigned between 1336-1350. The first decision he took was to move their base further south on the southern bank of the Tungabhadra. The river would for some time provide better security from the ever-marauding Muslims.

Seeing the horror brought on by the marauding Muslims, the brothers pledged themselves to the cause of their motherland and their religion. It was by luck or by fate that by the time the early Vijaynagar rulers appeared on the political horizon, the emperors of Delhi were in a decaying stage with civil wars rampant among them. Sick of the tyranny and excesses of Tuglaq, the Deccan rulers revolted in 1347, and the independent kingdom of the Bahmants was for a time firmly established.

Princess Gangambika of Vijayanagara writes about these grave times..
“The Tambraparni river, whose waters were once white with the sandal paste flowing from the breasts of the young girls now flows red with the blood of the cows killed by the cruel muslims”

Bukka Raya, succeeded Harihara on the throne. He defeated the Sultanate of Madurai in 1371 and extended his territory into the south all the way to Rameswaram. His son, Kumara Kampana campaigned with him and their efforts were recorded in the Sanskrit work Madura Vijayam written by his wife Gangambika. Bukka Raya’s 21-year reign (1356–77) the kingdom prospered and continued to expand as Bukka Raya conquered most of the kingdoms of southern India, continually expanding the territory of the empire.

Hampi saw many rulers after Bukka and it rose to its zenith during the reign of the Vijayanagara Kings. Among the kings of Vijayanagara, Krishnadeva Raya ( reign 1509-1529), a man of many abilities and sharp intellect, deserves a special mention. He successfully ruled the region and took the kingdom to new heights. It was during his reign that the city truly flourished and came to symbolize the medieval political culture of south India.

When I was a kid, I was greatly inspired by the stories of one Tenali Rama, a witty jester in the court of the emperor, Krishnadeva Raya.

Ride to Hampi from Toranagallu

I and my wife, Mani were staying at the Hyatt Place Hampi in Torangullu. Hyatt Place Hampi is located in the beautiful landscaped Vidyanagar township, some 27 km away from Hampi and it takes around an hour to reach Hampi.

Hospet is normally preferred for staying when you visit Hampi as it takes a lot less time and there are lots of transport choices easily available. At times it felt we would have been better placed had we booked a hotel in Hospet, but after the amazing service we received at Hyatt, there is no doubt that if we were to visit Hampi again, this would definitely be the place to stay.

The best way to enjoy Hampi is on foot or a bicycle, but since we were staying quite far away in Torangullu, we had to take a rental car. I had already gathered most of the information about the area and the route we would take using Google Maps. From my understanding of the place, it was going to be a long walk, so we started a little late in the day at 11 a.m. from Hyatt Place Hampi.

It was a lazy ride from Toranagallu to Hampi with long stretches of open space and some far-away mountain ranges in the west.

Queen’s Bath

The first piece of history we encountered was the Queen’s Bath. The driver was not accustomed to this place, which resulted in some problems later during the day. He was going past the Royal Enclosure on the Kamalapur-Hampi main road when I spotted it and asked him to stop.

As we entered the complex we were greeted by long high-arch corridors running all around a square pool. The balconies are decorated with three tiny windows each supported by four columns that look like lotus buds. The ceilings were decorated with floral patterns. The center of the pool is about 6 ft. deep and fully open to the sky. The sunlight creates a beautiful ambient glow inside the complex. The Queen’s Bath is surrounded by a moat, used to supply fresh water to the pool. And ahem.. according to history, the only male allowed inside was the King himself.

Chandrasekhara Temple

We walked past the Queen’s Bath towards the Chandrasekhara Temple. The entrance to the temple is magnificent, though in ruins. Inside the premises is a small temple dedicated to the Sun and Moon. The front of the temple is adorned with many columns with depictions of Surya (Sun) and Krishna (an avatar of Hindu God Vishnu). There is very little visibility inside and the idols have been moved to the nearby museum to protect them from vandalism or theft.

Octagonal Bath

Beyond the temple, we could see quite a few more structures sprouting all over the area and we decided to walk on rather than go back to the car. The sun was beating hard down upon us, but we were energized by the mystery of the place. We also saw some local farmers coming down the trail. Some 200 meters away along the trail, we reached the Octagonal Bath. This structure, as the name indicates, is a big bathing area in the shape of an octagon.

The Octagonal Bath was a public bath for the residents of the ruined palaces nearby

From here we could see a cluster of palace bases and we just kept walking towards them. The upper structures of these palaces were generally constructed with bricks and now torn down or weathered over the years. Walking past them we reached the Saraswati Temple. Created in 1554 CE, the temple has some intricate carvings of Krishna, Hanuman & Narasimha.

Royal Enclosure

From the Saraswati temple, we kept going west till we hit the Royal Enclosure area. Not much remains of the Royal Enclosure which was once the Vijayanagara kingdom’s seat of power. The remains of a huge base is all that confirms a massive palace once stood here. In its prime, it housed as many as 45 buildings including the durbar halls, platform, tanks, underground chambers, and temples.

As with all the other features constructed by the Vijayanagara kings, the Royal Enclosure makes ample use of granite and soapstone. All the palaces face the east or the north and were built on raised granite platforms. These platforms feature multiple tiers and are decorated with carved details of flowers, geese, demon faces, elephants, and human figures.

Hazara Rama Temple

The road in front of the Royal Enclosure keeps going north towards the Hazara Rama Temple. It is the only temple situated between the residential and the ceremonial enclosures. Dedicated to Vishnu in his avatar of Rama, this 15th-century temple is known for its sculpted friezes depicting the tale of Ramayana. The temple has a sprawling lawn on its northern side. Two gateways provide access to the temple compound.

Hazara Rama Temple was built in the early part of the 15th century by the then king of Vijayanagara, Devaraya II. It was originally built as a simple structure. It consisted of only a sanctum, a pillared hall, and an Ardha mandapa. Later the temple structure was renovated to add an open porch and beautiful pillars.

Running around the main shrine, you can see the narrative sculptures of Rama and his wife Sita. Created so close to the Royal enclosure, it undoubtedly enjoyed royal patronage.

The interior of the temple has ornately sculpted columns. The temple has an entrance mandapa and a yajna ceremony hall, whose ceiling is designed to ventilate fumes and smoke through the roof. Inside the main mandapa are four intricately carved pillars in the Hoysala style. These carvings include depictions of Rama, Lakshmana, and Sita, Durga as Mahishasuramardini, and Shiva-Parvati. An empty pedestal with three holes signifies that the temple once had idols of Rama, Lakshmana, and Sita.

Not to leave behind the stories of Luv & Kush, the sons of Rama, the Devi shrine at the back tells their tale.

From here Mani pointed out to another cluster of buildings around half a kilometer away. We kept walking for some 20 minutes on the same trail and we reached an underground temple.

It was called Madhava Temple, popularly known as the Ranga Temple. The temple is known for the 3 mt tall Hanuman sculpture. The grounds of this temple have a Ranga Mantapa which was exclusively used for musical and dance performances when Hampi flourished. The pillars of Ranga Mantapa have structural depictions of Garuda, Vitthala, Surya, Balakrishna & Hanuman.

Zenana Enclosure

The Zenana Enclosure is just beside the Madhava Temple but we had ended up at the rear gate. The security guard wouldn’t let us in from the rear entrance and we had to go all around the enclosure, to the front to get the tickets.

The Zenana Enclosure is a large stone-walled compound marked by 3 huge watchtowers. The name ‘zanana‘ which means ‘lady’ in Hindi, kind of suggests that this whole enclosure was a separate area only for women and the watchtowers were more of a lookout from where the women could enjoy the activities surrounding the enclosure.

The Watch Towers along the fortified walls were a much sought after entertainment for the noblewomen residing inside the Zenana Enclosure from where they would pry at the bustling city life.

We saw a few foreigners checking out the ruins over here. Right beside the main entrance on the left is a museum, but it is closed on Fridays. The remains of a large building stands opposite, of which only the three-tiered base remains. The structure on top of the base was probably built of bricks or wood, which was destroyed over the years. Historians tell us that this was a palace for the Queens of Vijayanagar.

Lotus Mahal

At the center of the Zenana Enclosure, lies the Lotus Mahal. The two-storied building was a non-religious building, a kind of a resting place for the Queens and other similarly privileged women meant. The upper storey is provided with numerous small arched windows.

Located at the center of the Zenana Enclosure, amid manicured lawns, the Lotus Mahal was a social gathering place for the noblewomen of Vijayanagar

Beyond the Lotus Mahal, a small gate led us into an open area where you can find a row of huge domed chambers with eleven tall arched openings alternating with walls of blind arches. Thousands of elephants and innumerable army men, on foot and horses, were kept and maintained, to protect the vast kingdom.

Elephant Stables

Only the royal elephants were kept here. Frankly, I have never heard of elephant stables, let alone seen one. Those elephants must have had a charmed life. The open area in front of the building used to be a parade ground for the elephants. The guards’ barracks are located right next to the Elephant stables.

The elephant stable was constructed in the 15th century, during the reign of the Vijayanagara Empire. As the name indicates, the stable was constructed to house the royal elephants of the Vijayanagara Empire.

Cesar Fredric, the medieval travellar, says that he had seen many courts but never anything to compare. The Rayas seem to have kept in the city itself for purposes of defence and protection some 100,000 infantry, 30,000 cavalary and about 4000 elephants, with suitable number of guns and artillery.

The elaborate structure indicates the importance attached to the royal elephants during those days. It also suggests the amazing craftsmanship of the artisans of that era.

We were famished after the long walk in the sun and had some cool tender coconut water. After taking a breather, we walked back towards the entrance.

There aren’t many stores located nearby. Only one shop is there near the entrance and I was able to obtain a bottle of cold mineral water. Our ride was still at the Queen’s bath where we had left it. I called the driver but the novice he was, he took 30 mins to come which should have taken 5 mins. Once he was back, we headed towards the Narasimha Temple.

Narasimha Temple

Constructed in 1528 CE under the supervision of King Krishnadeva Raya, the Laxminarasimha Temple is dedicated to Lord Narasimha, one of the nine avatars of Vishnu. According to mythology, Vishnu had taken the form of a human with the head of a lion to kill the asura king Hiranyakashyapu.

The story goes… when the asura king Hiranyakashyapu learned of the death of his younger brother at the hands of Vishnu in the form of Varaha, he swore revenge. He vowed to make himself mightier than Vishnu. He performed rigorous penance to please Brahma, seeking the boon of immortality. Brahma declined so he continued his penance taking it to even harsher levels and eventually Brahma was forced to grant him an alternate boon. Hiranyakashyapu asked of him – “Then let not death come to me at night or day; by weapon or hand; by club or sword, nor spear nor bow; on earth or heaven, nor the Nether world below; by god, demon, snake nor a being as low; by human or beast, nor any other foe; neither in nor out may Death smite me his blow.” Once he got this boon, he started vandalizing Heaven and Earth. Eventually, Vishnu took the avatar of Narasimha, which was neither man nor an animal, to finally kill him.

According to mythology, the lion face of Narasimha is the 4th incarnation of Vishnu and is also sometimes called Unganarasimha (the ferocious Narasimha) This statue of Narasimha is carved out of a single piece of granite and is the biggest statue in Hampi at 6.7 ft tall. Narasimha is depicted sitting on the coil of a giant seven-headed snake called the Sheshnaga, king of the snakes. The heads of the snake act as a hood above his head.

The original statue is said to have contained an idol of goddess Lakshmi, consort of Vishnu, sitting on his lap. But this statue has been damaged seriously during the raids leading to the fall of Vijayanagara.

Krishna Temple & Baazaar

About 200 meters north of Narasimha Temple is the Balakrishna Temple. Carved pillars at the Balakrishna Temple, depict stories from the Bhagavat Gita. The Balakrishna Temple was created around 1513.

This is one of the temples that has its sikhara somewhat intact. It goes to show the detailing involved in the making of the top section. I can just imagine how it must have felt to walk around the temple city when all its structures were still intact.

The Balakrishna Temple is a complex with many sub-shrines and halls. The interior of these temples is poorly lit with extremely rare windows. Today we can stroll into these temples, but during those days the divinity of the sacred idol was known only to a handful of priests and noblemen. Public display of the idol was strictly forbidden.

One of the prominent historical site, the Balakrishna temple in Hampi was built by the Krishnadevaraya in 1513

Just opposite the temple lies the Krishna Bazaar, a trading place for diamonds and other gems. As we went down the steps, we saw some horses were grazing in the ruins of the bazaar. The vast array of bazaars – semi-intact structures are a direct evidence of the city’s inclination towards trade and its associated methods.

For nearly three centuries, the city of Vijaynagar grew rapidly in wealth and importance. It was talked of as the most splendid city in the world by all those who had the fortune to visit it personally. Traders from Portugal, Persia, Italy, and even Russia came to Hampi and chronicled the grand lifestyle of the city.

Destruction of Hampi

During Krishnadeva Raya’s rule, this trade-oriented city developed and thrived. Cotton, spices, and textiles were traded with the Europeans. The Portuguese traders and the king shared a good and friendly relationship that thrived on mutual benefit and the exchange of goods continuously took place between the two. The Portuguese particularly traded horses for acquiring many items from Hampi.

Domingo Paes, a Portuguese traveler who had visited the metropolis around 1520, had compared Hampi’s size to that of Rome. He wrote about what he has seen in Hampi: its lavish markets and fairs, its rich merchants, streets, rows of houses, and even its food. He wrote about its irrigation and its many ports where the Portuguese had set up factories. His accounts are one of the most detailed and well explained. It is known that such was the wealth of Hampi that gold was openly sold in the market, like any other product.

Barely 35 years after the death of Krishnadeva Raya, the Deccan Sultanate, consisting of Ahmad Nagar, Berar, Bidar, Bijapur, and Golkonda attacked and defeated the army of Vijayanagar Empire in the famous Battle of Talikota in January 1565. At the time of the Muslim conquest, Hampi was a city of rich artistic tradition. Hindu shrines were to be found by almost every hillside. Two hundred years of wealth and planning are reflected in the layout of Vijayanagara.

To safeguard against the looting Muslim armies, Harihara and kings following him gave prime importance to protection against invasion. The city was built like a fortress, lined with massive stone walls, with watchtowers scattered across its length and breadth. The chain of boulder hills also made a natural fortress around the vast area. Regardless of their business or intention, visitors to the city had to travel through the heavily fortified and protected area before reaching the town center. Massive fortifications stood at every possible entry into the main metropolis and in other crucial locations. Watch posts were built along the roads, gates, and hilltops to gain maximum visibility. Despite all these precautions, the Deccan Muslim Confederacy still invaded Vijayanagara and plundered, and desecrated the grandeur of Hampi.

They slaughtered people without mercy, broke down the palaces and temples, and wreaked such savage vengeance on the city that with the exception of a few stone buildings and walls, nothing now remains. With this, the last significant Hindu kingdom in the Deccan came to an end. After the battle of Talikota, Tirumala Raya, the last of the Vijayanagara kings escaped, accompanied by the surviving members of the royal family along with 550 elephants laden with treasures in gold and precious stones to the fortress of Penunkonda.

They still left behind the treasures that lay in several other palaces and underground treasure chambers, waiting to be plundered. After the tragedy at Talikota, hordes of dacoits pounced upon the city and subjected the stores and shops to plunder leaving the city in ruins. The scenes which followed the sacking of this royal city were most heart-rending and painful to read. Judging from the amount of destruction of the palaces, the conquering troops must have spent months pillaging the city. Houses of the common folk, made from mud and bricks were completely destroyed. Only the structures built of solid stones survived. So thorough was the devastation that future rulers, despite several attempts could never re-establish it.

Monuments on Hemkuta Hill

Idols of Kadalekalu Ganesha (Elephant God), on the Hemkuta Hill, Sasivekalu Ganesha, in another part, showcase how massive structures were created out of a single piece of rock. Parts of these temple complexes also contain numerous carvings of mythological importance.

The Hemakuta hill houses the most well-preserved pre-Vijayanagara and early-Vijayanagara temples of Hampi. This hill is sprinkled generously with a large number of temples, archways, and pavilions. The whole of the hill was fortified with tall wide stonewalls, the ruined remains of which can be still be seen.

These boulders date back to more than 3 billion years and are believed to be the earliest solidified rock on the planet. 

Read more about the monuments on Hemkuta Hill.

Virupaksha Temple

As we started our descent from Hemkuta Hill, we could see the Virupaksha temple complex. This temple predates the Vijayanagara kings and is still an active temple in Hampi. I was pretty tired by the time we reached Virupaksha temple. There was quite a crowd around and a few devotees were placing diyas on the road. It being Dusshera in India, they probably had some festivities planned for the evening.

Read more about the Virupaksha Temple.

We just watched the temple from outside. I had gotten thirsty and we had left the Water bottle in the car at the Balakrishna Temple. I tried calling the driver but the network was unavailable. We took a short walk on the Hampi bazaar street. On the left was a row of shops. I found a store that was selling mineral water apart from some other snacks. After taking in a few gulps we walked towards the auto/car parking area. We still didn’t have any phone network, so we hired an auto to drive us back to Balakrishna Temple. On reaching the car I asked the driver to take us to our last stop of the day, Vitthala Temple.

He told us that to reach Vithalla Temple we had to take a long walk along the Tungabhadra. it was only later we came to know that there is also a route where you can drive all the way to the Vittala Temple. On the way, we chanced upon another temple in ruins. It is one of the hidden temples of Hampi located beyond the Matanga hills. The location of the temple is secluded and off the more traveled path, the temple is much less crowded as compared to many other tourist attractions in Hampi.

We got down at Virupaksha Temple parking lot and walked back along Hampi Bazaar street. At the end of the street, there was a line of decorated steps leading to a monolithic Nandi statue.

River Tungabhadra

We asked a few locals and they guided us on the trail. After some time we reached a path made of stones parallel to the banks of the Tungabhadra river. The river at this point is forced into a narrow gorge, hemmed by granite hills. Monsoon had just ended but the river was still very calm. After walking for about 30 min we reached a beautiful spot on the banks of the river. Over the years, the flowing water has polished the rocks that border the river. The river was also known as Pampa in ancient times. We sat there for a few minutes enjoying the late afternoon and cooling our heels in the flowing waters of Tungabhadra. After some rest, we started back on the trail. Quite a few people were coming back on the same trail, so it wasn’t difficult to follow.

Achyutaraya Temple

The Achyuta Raya Temple was built in 1534 CE during the rule of Achyuta Deva Raya, one of the emperors of the Vijayanagara Empire. He came to power by succeeding his elder brother Krishna Deva Raya in the year 1529.

The main idol worshiped in the Achyuta Raya Temple is Lord Tiruvengalanatha which is, an avatar of Vishnu. The temple was initially known as Tiruvengalanatha Temple. However, later on, it came to be called after the king in whose reign it was built. Since then, it became widely known as the Achyuta Raya temple. The towers, pillars, and walls have exquisite carvings and ornamentation. Major parts of the temple are in a damaged condition. Although it is in ruins, the temple does not fail in grandiosity and its magnificence even today.

The principal shrine of the temple is located in the center of a pair of rectangular concentric enclosures. There are pillared verandas on the interior flanks of the two courtyard walls. The outer walkways are in a state of decay, collapse, and disintegration. The temple is distinctly visible from the top of Matanga Hill. It is at the end of the abandoned Courtesan Street.

On entering the inner court one can spot a chamber that is facing the porch leading to the central hall. There is a small shrine chamber that once sanctified an image of Garuda. The carvings are done on monolithic blocks of rocks. The statues and sculptures on the pillars reveal themes like Vishnu blessing an elephant, Krishna practicing his flute while the calves are watching this scene with interest, and infant Krishna dancing with a snake and holding it by the tail. There is a Mandapa, a marriage hall of the Gods, and the Goddesses for the yearly nuptials.

Dusk was almost setting in as we reached Vitthala Temple. Just before the Vitthala Temple, there is a monument popularly known as the King’s Balance. The stone frame is all that remains from the original structure that was supposed to work like a weighing scale. It is said that king Krishanadeva Raya, used to weigh himself here with gold, silver, and precious stones, and distribute it to the Brahmans on special days.

Vitthala Temple

The Vitthala Temple is Hampi’s crowning glory and a photographer’s delight. Vitthala is the Krishna avatar of Vishnu, worshiped in these parts as their cult deity. The temple is built in the form of a sprawling campus with compound walls and gateway towers. There are many halls, pavilions, and temples located inside this campus. It is one of the largest temples of that period, started under the patronage of Proudha Devaraya, also known as Devaraya II. He ascended the throne in 1422. and ruled up to 1446 A.D. Substantial portions of the present structure were added by Krishanadeva Raya during his 21-year reign.

Entry to the Vitthala Temple requires a ticket. The temple is built on a sculptured decorated plinth. The Sabha Mantapa (meeting hall) pillars are massive, carved out of single granite blocks. To the north of the Sabha Mantapa is the Narasimha Mantapa, where a pillar has the sculpture of Narasimha and its various other forms. The eastern hall of the Mahamandapa is the Hall of Musical Pillars. Each of these pillars is said to have generated music on tapping and are carved with figures of musicians, musical instruments, and dancers. However, it is off-limits to visitors now; since people used to break the pillars trying to get music out of them.

Two other prominent structures inside the complex are the Kalyana Mandapa (for marriages) and the Utsava Mandap (for festivals). The sky had become vividly purple and looked amazing with the silhouette of Anjanedri Hill in the background. We strolled around the temple grounds, talking and checking out the carvings. After some time we came out and walked towards the left of the temple towards what looked like another Mandapa. We sat there for a few minutes taking in the beauty of the place.

A one-day trip obviously does not do justice to all the monuments. Hampi is a photographic pilgrimage. We spent some amazing time at the Zenana Enclosure, Balkrishna Temple, and Hemkuta Hill but breezed past Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, and Kadalekalu Ganesha and Sasivekalu Ganesha Temples, Virupaksha Temple, Vitthala Temple, and a few others.

Even though the city is considered to be around 800 years old, recent excavations around Anegundi have unearthed archaeological artifacts dating back to the 3rd century BC. These findings show that the Vijayanagar area was densely settled for a long period even before the creation of the empire. The present buildings must have been left alone by the Mahomedan conquerors apparently on account of their utter insignificance – in comparison with the grand edifices which they destroyed, to leave no traces of their enemies.

The Hampi Group of Monuments was inscribed as World Heritage Site (WHS) by UNESCO in the year 1986. Fourteen monuments were covered initially in this inscription and today fifty-six monuments protected by the ASI are considered as World Heritage. Due to the recent jump in tourism and vandalism of this great city, UNESCO has listed it as a “threatened” World Heritage site. Mani was already planning to come back and so was I.

Visitor Information

Hampi is hot during summers and exploring even parts of the ancient city involves a lot of walking. I would recommend visiting between October to April and spend at least two days to truly enjoy the vast heritage of Hampi. Even if you want to explore alone, it is a good idea to hire a Guide, they will tell you the amazing stories behind the ruins. If you don’t know the story a ruin is just a ruin. 

If you can withstand a drive of 3 hours, there are a couple of interesting heritage sites near Hampi like Badami & Pattadakal that are wonderful places to enjoy more ancient architecture

What is the best time to visit Hampi?

It is a good time to visit Hampi during the monsoon season between July and September or during the winter months between November to February. If you are interested in catching up with some religious events, January-February is a good time to witness the legendary Virupaksha Temple Chariot Festival and the annual Purandaradasa Aradhana Music Festival at Vitthala Temple.

Admission Fees

Most of the areas around the heritage city are free to access. You will need to purchase admission tickets at Vitthala Temple and The Lotus Mahal.

Vitthala temple: Open between 6 am and 6 pm, the entry ticket for Indians and tourists from SAARC and BIMSTEC countries is ₹30 per person. For foreigners, the entry ticket is priced at ₹500.

Lotus Mahal: The entry fee of lotus mahal is ₹10 per person for Indians. For foreigners, it is priced at ₹250.

Night Trek to Kunti Betta

After the amazing experience of Savandurga Night Trek last weekend, I had to yield to this weekends Night Trek to Kunti Betta.

Legend has it that..

Kunti Betta consists of two rocky but easy to climb hills that towers over a picturesque lake. The nearest town is Pandavapura, a panchayat town in Mandya district, located approximately 130 km from Bangalore. It came into prominence during the Mahabharata period. It is said the Pandavas ended their exile of 14 years here in Pandavapura. It is also here that Bheema, one of the Pandava brothers slayed Bakasura, a demon who used to terrorize the local villagers. The Hills derive their name from Kunti, the mother of the Pandavas.

The Journey

The skies were much clear today. My pick-up point was at Central Silk Board at 11 p.m. and had a tough time reaching. I am surprised how basic transport services reduce drastically after 10 p.m. in  Bangalore. I mean isn’t Bangalore an IT Hub. How can basic transport services go off at 11pm. Its ridiculous!

It takes around a couple of hours to reach Pandavpura so some of us took the opportunity to grab a nap. Midway we stopped at a highway tea stall. Along the way we also crossed the Pandavpura Railway Station. We finally stopped at the base near a boarding school. I have forgotten the name of the school. This time we didn’t have a guide, why I realized later. Kunti Betta is comparatively an easier trek from what I experienced at Savandurga Night Trek. No steep faces, boulders strewn across with easy trails all the way to the top. The only hindrance were some thorny bushes.

The Trek

Situated at a height of around 2900 feet above sea level, Kunti Betta is one of the relatively easy treks.  We reached the base of Kunti Betta at around 2 am. This time around the Ishan & Salwat from Get Beyond Limits had an alternative route planned for us. There are certain things I love about Get Beyond Limits. They always do a good reckon of the place they are going to take trekkers and plan everything early on. Not many use this route, bit it was certainly more challenging. The first beautiful rock we reached was the Croc rock, with the rock face protruding out in the shape of a crocodile’s head. I had my new trekking shoes and I was amazed with the grip I was getting. Boo Woodlands! The night was pitch black. During the climb there were moments I would just sit back & stare at the beautiful starry skies. Luckily the clouds stayed away for  a few hours.

We reached the top of a small hill in an hours time. We took a breather there and were off again towards the peak. All around I could still see lights from the town and far off places. I wonder how it would feel if all lights went out for a few minutes. Along the way there were areas with open spaces, perfect for setting up a camp. We reached the peak in another hour. By this time the clouds had gathered again and the stars were gone. From the top of this hill at night, the Kunti Kund lake looked mesmerizing, slightly hidden from view by the other hill. I had my tripod and was able to get a long exposure shot of the amazing scene.

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It was almost dawn, but we still decided to have a bonfire. Within a few minutes the Sun started to rise. It was hard to see with all the clouds, but the sky went into a fantastical gradient of orange and purple. Everyone was taking selfies 😉 Unfortunately selfies don’t do justice the the breathtaking scene they were in.

As the first lights of the Sun started to clear the darkness, we went towards the “Parikrama” rock. One has to jump over to reach this place. Even though I was in better shape on this trek, I was still far away from taking on this challenge.

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The Descent

By 8 a.m. we were ready to descend. Downhill was quick and easy. I find it fun to look for faces & shapes in clouds. As we descended, I went past a few boulders that I think were in the shape of an ape’s face. Ishan threw us a couple of challenges along the way. He is always looking around egging us on to take on new challenges. At the base we headed towards the Kunti Kund lake on the far side.

We passed some freshly planted sugarcane fields. I recalled having fresh sugarcane juice right from the fields when I used to visit my Grandpa in the village long time back when I was a kid. We reached the lake in about 30 mins. The breeze was almost blowing us away as we reached the banks of the lake. Some of the more enthusiastic trekkers went into the water. It wasn’t more than knee deep at the edges.

After spending some time at the bank of Kunti Kund, we trekked back to the town where we had a sumptuous breakfast lined up. I heard the town also has a few Jaggery factories. We had a scheduled visit to a sugarcane factory but everyone got tired and we skipped it.

The ride back to Bangalore was sleepy. I dropped off at Jayadeva at 2pm and took an auto ride home.

I would love to come back to this place again sometime when we have clear skies. I also wonder how beautiful it would look with the sun descending on that lake. But that’s for another day. Not too far in the future, I hope.

Indispensables

  1. 2 Liters of Water. Very essential
  2. Torch or a head lamp (only for night treks) It is always handy to carry one battery operated and one dynamo torch as a backup in-case batteries die out.
  3. Rubber Sole Shoes
  4. Pain Spray for sprains etc
  5. Basic medical supplies
  6. Raincoat or poncho

Night Trek to Savandurga

Savandurga is an amazing place for a photo-op… but Whoa! the fort of “death” and that too on my first trek!!

History of Savandurga

Located at a distance of 64 km west of Bangalore, Savandurga is reputed to be the highest monolith in Asia. It comprises two looming granite hills, Karigudda, the Black Hill and Biligudda, the White Hill, both around 4000 feet tall. Historically, the hills find a mention in the records of the Hoysala period in the 13th century. In those times it was referred to as Savandi hills. Later during the reign of Hyder Ali, this hill served as a fort prison from where it was said there was no escape but via death. Since then the locals began referring to it as “Mrutyu Kupa” which vaguely translates to “the fort of death.”

The nearest town to Savandurga is Magadi, known for being the birthplace of Kempe Gowda who is kind of looked at as the founder of the city we now call Bangalore. More recently, the hills have been featured in the making of David Lean’s movie A Passage to India.

The Journey to Savandurga

I was going on this night trek to Savandurga along with a trekking group. My pick-up point was at Central Silk Board at 11 p.m. It was my first trek around Bangalore and I was duly very excited. The tempo bus was waiting, filling up as more and more trekkers trickled in. We hit the road by 11:30 p.m. I had been searching for good trekking groups for over a year and this is the first team that impressed me even before I started on the trek. The other trekkies joining us from various parts of bangalore got introduced to each other on the bus during the ride. Most trekkers came in groups – friends from office or were couples. I was the only loner, but I had my camera, that more than made up for it.

I am new to Bangalore but I could vaguely identify the route towards Savandurga, since it goes along the same route as I had taken when I had been to Manchanabele Dam just a few weeks before. Once we left the city behind, the stars were much brighter, a rare sight during monsoon around Bangalore.

Savandurga Forest

Savandurga is surrounded by a thick forest of scrubs, said to harbor around 60 different tree and 119 shrub species. The hills are also home to the endangered Yellow-throated Bulbuls. The road became a bit bumpy as we entered the Savandurga Forest. On the way we passed the Manchanabele Dam. Created by the waters of the Akravathy River, Manchanabele Reservoir itself is a lovely place from where you can get an enticing view of the Savandurga Hill.

We reached the base of the hill near the Narasimhaswamy Temple at around 1 am. Were were going to conquer Biligudda tonight! It is a relatively easier climb compared to Karigudda, which requires permission to climb. We got an energy pack from the organizers comprising a juice tetra-pack, an energy-bar and a pack of biscuits.

Trekking to Savandurga

Within a few minutes our local guide, Anna, came running with his huge torch. He is a local resident and knows his way around the hills. We started the climb at around 1:15 am.

Trekking in Savandurga can be thrilling as well as challenging as I discovered. It’s a smooth monolith and at certain points, very steep. Luckily we didn’t have rains and the trail was dry. I did though make a big mistake being in my Woodland’s. It’s a bad idea to trek in Woodland shoes. They are heavy and not good at getting a grip on the rocky surface. One should always get a rubber sole shoe and preferably one that is light.

We took a break midway through the climb. The clouds were flowing by us and it was time for some ghost stories. During story-telling, Ishan shared with us his experience of when he and his friend landed up in Bhangarh, a ghost village.

Sitting on the cold rock, I could see the lights from the nearest town of Magadi. Suddenly out of nowhere, a thick cloud enveloped us. In the haze, the light from our torches glowed like beams crisscrossing each other. It was an unforgettable experience. We spent a few minutes there and started again.

After some 45 minutes into the trek, we reached a makeshift shed.  There is a small natural pool beside the Mantapa. We took a break here and had a nice and warm bonfire going.

Some of the guys took a quick nap. I was too excited to even think about sleep. I scouted around for places where I could get a good view of the sunrise.

By 5:30 a.m everyone was wide awake and ready to move on for the final climb. We hit dawn at around 6 a.m. The view was ethereal. It appeared we could just jump and snatch away a bit of the clouds.

The sun was hidden behind the heavy clouds so we weren’t able catch a glimpse but at some places the rays would somehow peek through. As light improved it also revealed a small pond near our shack.

Savandurga Peak

There was a little drizzle and my shoes had become very slippery. The second part of the trek to the top of Biligudda was not very tough and we were there in around 30 mins.

We sat there basking in the conquest. At the top of Biligudda is a small shrine dedicated to Nandi, Lord Shiva’s sacred Bull. This shrine/tower was commissioned by  Kempegowda in the 17th Century.

Beside it there is a broken rock structure that is referred to as the Superman Rock. Why? well according to GBL anyone who stands on that rock looks like a superman 🙂

We stayed at the peak for an hour, immersed in the amazing beauty of mother nature. As the Sun started to become harsh and we started the descent at around 8 am. GBL has a “No Littering” policy, so no one is allowed to litter, beyond that they also gave us an option to carry back any plastic garbage left behind by irresponsible trekkers to Bangalore. We collected some 4 big bags of tetra-packs and soft drink bottles. While descending, we took a detour and some of the guys/gals did some rock climbing. I didn’t. Rock climbing is not my thing, so I try to skip as much as I can.

The Descent

While climbing down we passed a fort wall, almost in ruins. It was only now that in the bright light, I was able to see properly the steepness of the hill. At night when we were climbing it didn’t feel so steep. We reached the base in an hour. I was exhausted. At the foothill there is a village by the same name.

From what I hear, Savandurga hills are frequently visited by pilgrims round the year, who come to visit the Narasimha Swamy and  Savandi Veerabhadreshwara Swamy temple situated at the foothills. The Narasimhaswamy Temple was abuzz with people paying respects and praying for happiness.

Just beside the temple, the guys from GBL had arranged for some delicious Tatthe Idli, a local delicacy for breakfast. I loved it and possibly ate a bit too much 🙂 . We had some coffee, took some rest and headed back to the bus. On the way back we stopped for a few minutes at the Big Banyan Tree which is near to 400 years old. Some monkeys came down to check my camera gear and went back annoyed when I didn’t comply 🙂

Thanks for reading! It was my first night trek and it was fabulous.  I do have a sense of achieving something beyond my limits on one of the jewels of the Deccan plateau. The trek is relatively easy and photographers looking for a easy outing amidst mother nature are going to love it.

Photo walk at Devanahalli Fort

Today I visit one of the oldest flat-land forts near Bangalore. The Devanahalli fort was built many centuries back in 1501 CE, but the most recent fortification was enabled by Hyder Ali which gave the fort its current look.

A tale written in blood

Devanahalli is a small town on the outskirts of Bangalore not more than 40 mins away on the NH7 Highway, very close to Kempegowda International Airport. Devanahalli Fort is one of the rare forts in Karnataka to be built on flat ground. Because of this very structural weakness, it has seen many rulers since the 1500’s.

The original name of Devanahalli was Devanadoddi, dating back to the 15th century. The fort was originally built in 1501 by Malla Baire Gowda, son of a refugee from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu during the rule of the Vijayanagara empire. According to local tales, a group of refugees settled from conjeevaram (present Kanchipuram), near the foothills of Ramaswamy betta. The chief of the tribe Rana Baire Gowda, heir of mosaru wokkalu community, looking for a harmonious settlement for his people was the first to identify the fort location.

At that point in time, the fort was made of only mud structures. It remained under the control of Malla Baire Gowda’s descendants till 1747, when the Wodeyars of Mysore, under the command of Nanja Raja, attacked and occupied the fort. Subsequently, a few years later Devanahalli was usurped by the Marathas.

Eventually, the fort was taken over by Hyder Ali and his successor Tipu Sultan. It was during the reign of Hyder Ali that this fort was converted from mud to the present stone fort. Finally, in 1791 the control of the fort passed to the British under Lord Cornwallis. Throughout its lifetime, the fort has navigated through several dynasties from the emergence of the Vijayanagara empire to the advent of the British.

Ride to Devanahalli

I stay in the Bannerghatta area and it is a long way away from Devanahalli. I woke up at dawn and by 5 a.m I was out on the road looking for a bus. It didn’t take long for one of the air-conditioned buses to come along. The bus dropped me off at the Majestic Bus Stand. I was pleasantly surprised when I realized it just took me 30 minutes to reach majestic. On a regular day, during office hours it usually takes around 2 hours to reach there, such is the beast – the Bangalore traffic!

At the Majestic bus stand, I didn’t have to wait long for a public bus to Devanahalli. On the way as I was passing the wide toll road stretch, I saw the sun looking like a golden ball on the horizon rising in the background of a bunch of teak trees. The bus dropped me off at the eastern gate of the fort. I was surprised to see the inside of the fort encroached by small slum-type houses. I had to walk some 10 mins to get to the western gate where you can find what remains of the fort. The road goes – bam, through the heritage site. You can also find dozens of monkeys loitering around.

The ruins of a fort

The fort is spread over an area of 20 acres. The roughly oval-oriented Fortification veneered with dressed masonry has about 12 semi-circular bastions at regular intervals. If you are coming by your own vehicle go there directly. There is no parking lot. visitors just park their vehicle outside in front of the western gate.

On the insides of the entrance gates, one can see some intricate artwork.

There is a gate on the left, right after the entrance gate that leads to the fortified walls built in brick and lime.

As I walked along the caponier, I could easily make out the rot that has settled in. From the top, you can clearly see a full human settlement inside the fort. Most heritage buildings inside the fort have already been demolished to build their residences. The remaining few are being used as residential units. The house of Dewan Purnaiah, a high-ranking official in Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan’s court, is also located inside the fort.

The 500-year-old heritage structure is slowly weathering away due to the neglect and apathy of the government. The walls of the fort have developed cracks in many places and parts of it have also collapsed. The locals living inside the prohibited/protected area in the immediate vicinity of the fort are the main culprits. There are small channels along the inner fort walls that allowed water to drain out of the ramparts, thus reducing seepage into the structure.

The small doorway you see above is a small room, created to hold a single soldier at best. It was created for whence attacking troops would somehow scale the action, the soldiers from inside would use spears to attack them, staying protected inside.

All along the caponier, gun points are provided at regular intervals through which soldiers could shoot at the enemy, staying hidden. At many points along the wall, the top layer of cement has come off exposing the carcass of red bricks inside.

The soldiers used to shoot from these gun points, sometimes also pouring burning oil for here to stop soldiers from climbing the walls

Inside the fort are age-old temples dedicated to Venugopalaswamy, Ranganatha, Chandramouleshwara, and other deities. The fort area is also known to consist of several sites and structures resembling watch towers, housing, and defence buildings.

Tipu Sultan is said to be born in the fort town of Devanahalli. You can find a memorial of Tipu Sultan located beside the historic fort. Known as the Khas Bhag, it lies inside a garden full of tamarind and mango trees.

Even though Hyder Ali provided Tipu with the best available education, he turned out to be a tyrant. Some political needs to vote-bait the Muslim community in the 1990’s tried to white-wash his hatred towards the Hindus of this land, but written records passed down the years tell a different tale. He made no secret of his hatred for Hindus. After his death in 1799 in the Fourth Anglo-Mysore War and the fall of his capital Srirangapattana to the British, Colonel William Kirkpatrick discovered more than 2000 letters in his palace written in Farsi in Tipu’s own handwriting. In these letters, Tipu refers to Hindus as “kaffirs and infidels,” who needed to be “cleansed (or converted) if the rule of Islam is to be firmly established in India.”

Here again, you can see a small room going down. it could fit a single person for an attack from behind if enemy soldiers would scale the fort.

Like many Muslim rulers who have changed Hindu names of places to rewrite history, Tipu tried to rename Devanahalli as Yousafabad but it never caught on.

As I walked further towards the eastern end, you can see more misery. The fort watchtower, almost in obscurity, is in dire need of preservation. This used to be the watchtower of the fort, now mostly in ruins. The building used to be a lot higher, so it could give a good reconnaissance of the surrounding area in case of an attack.

These pictures are just from the northern side of the fort. The southern side is completely in ruins. There is a row of steps to walk over to that side, but the area is full of wild vegetation and you cannot walk up there.

After spending some time at the fort, I explored the surrounding area. There is a small hill with a Jain temple at the peak. There are also some lovely boulders in the area photographers might be interested in.

Eventually, I walked back to the bus stop and caught a bus to Majestic Bus Station. I was back home by around 12 noon.

With the rapid growth in the population of Devanahalli, urbanization has wrapped its arms around this heritage site, threatening its cultural charm, and its very existence. Locals indulge in intense vandalization by writing names on the wall of the remaining structures. Today the heritage site silently watches as cars whiz by on NH-7. According to residents here, tourists nowadays rarely visit this historic spot.

It seems in the expansive demand for space, the local history and its significance have become minuscule and nullified by the ferocious wave of urbanization. I hope this article can encourage some to take steps to save the fort so that it retains its originality and serves as knowledge for future generations to understand the local history.

How to reach Devanahalli Fort?

From Bangalore, the fort can be easily reached in 40 minutes. It lies very close to the Kempe Gowda International Airport. I took a bus from the Majestic bus stand, It cost me Rs.24

Can I use Tripod to take photos?

Even though the heritage site is abused extensively, the caretaker will not allow you to take photos using a tripod.

What is the admission fee to enter Devanahalli Fort?

Entery to Devanahalli Fort is free

Is there any camera charge?

There is no camera charge.

How much time does it take to fully explore the Devanahalli Fort?

It hardly takes an hour to explore the remains of Devanahalli Fort. Recently one of the bastions on the northern side has collapsed. Please take adequate care when climbing the stairs.

Weekend in Ooty

Ooty, a vast sea of breathtaking landscape, dense forests, mesmerizing flowers and flowing tea gardens.

Udhagamandalam??

Not a lot of people are aware that the real name of Ooty, one of the most popular Hill Station in India, is Udhagamandalam. Ooty is a paradise on Earth and a delight for nature lovers. Elevated at around 3000 m above sea level, this bouquet of  hills has a lovely weather round the year.

Ooty the “Queen of Hill Stations” is a located in the Nilgiris in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu.  Nilgiris is India’s first International Biosphere Reserve blessed with a fascinating ecosystem of the hill ranges of Nilgiris and its unique bio-diversity covering a tract of over 5000 square kilometers. The Name ‘Nilgiris’ means Blue hills (Neelam – Blue and Giri – Hill or Mountain). The name, the Nilgiris, is because of the violet-blue blossoms of  the ‘Neelakurinji’ flowers enveloping the hill ranges like a carpet during July to December months.

The Hoysala king Vishnuvardhana was the first to lay the foundation of a town here. It later became a part of the flourishing Vijayanagar kingdom from 1336 to 1565. After the fall of the Vijayanagara empire in 1565, the rulers of Mysore gained control over the Nilgiris. Subsequently it came under the rule of Hyder Ali and later Tipu Sultan from 1760 to 1799. The Nilgiris was finally ceded to the East India Company in 1799 by the Treaty of Seringapatam. During the rule of the British, John Sullivan, an avid nature lover re-discovered Ooty and presented it to the rest of the world. He introduced a number of varieties of plants from Europe and South Africa in Ooty, which now form part of the beautiful Nilgiris flora today.

The bus ride to Ooty

We started from Bangalore at night. we had sleeper bus booked from Green Travels. It takes about 9 hours to reach Ooty by bus from Bangalore. The ride was fine until we reached Mettipalyam around 3.00 a.m, after that it gets a bit bumpy. I had initially wanted to take the Nilgiris Train from here, but it would have taken an extra day, so we had to drop that. We were wide awake by the time we passed Connoor at 5.30 a.m. We finally reached Ooty at around 7 a.m. We hired an auto from the bus stand to our Hotel Sinclairs.

By the way, this hotel is highly recommended. It is located at the base of Doddabetta Hill. You can feel the fresh and crisp air enveloping this amazing hill. It also has a great view of the whole city from a small garden upfront. It’s also quite some way from the hustle and bustle of the city and very peaceful.

Lakkidi, Upper Bhavani

lakkidi-upper-bhawani-lake-ooty

The lone tree at Upper Bhawani

We were early at Hotel Sinclairs, the check-in wasn’t until 12 p.m. The guy at the reception told us we could check-in early if we would check-out early when leaving and we readily agreed. We freshened up and had a light breakfast. After taking some rest, we left for Upper Bhavani lake at around noon.

Upper Bhavani is located some 30 kilometers from the main city. The ride to the place is beautiful. We passed several clusters of houses built on the slopes. It’s always better to start early otherwise its difficult to obtain a Jeep. We had to wait for around an hour and half for one to come along. Though the wait is not boring. You can feel the fresh air and immerse yourself in the soft sun. The Jeep ride took us through more twists and turns through “the Cauliflower forest.” It doesn’t really have cauliflowers, the trees just look like Broccoli, hence the name. We reached the back waters of Upper Bhavani after driving for 30 minutes.

Lakkidi is the place I would love to have a fantasy farm-house, like the one they show in movies. Words fail to describe the beauty of the place. The clouds passing by add magic to the already amazing landscape. The water level of the lake was quite low since we went just before monsoon. In the whole area, there is just one single tree. The guide told us that after monsoon when the lake is filled, the water comes up exactly up to the foot of the tree.

Doddabetta peak

Doddabetta is the highest mountain in the Nilgiri Hills at 2,637 meters. We were staying right at the base, so we got an early start on Sunday. The temperature fell rapidly as we reached the peak. It is a good idea to bring some warm clothes when you come here. The entrance is quite crowded with lots of hawkers setting up small food and clothing stalls. I am told the place is always a bit crowded being so close to the city. From the cozy 18° C at the Hotel, we were thrown into 5° C within 10 mins at the Doddabetta peak. Each time a cloud would pass through, it would get even colder. I was barely able to hold my teeth from chattering. The chaiwala was doing good business, we also had some. We spent some time here, but all around us we could see only gray clouds and maybe a couple of mountain ranges in-between. While descending, the road was totally blocked and the queue was huge. Thankfully the going down road was clear and we were able to make our way down.

Mudumalai National Park

Line of Gulmohars at the at the Glenmorgan Dam Reservoir

Rows of Gulmohars at the at the Glenmorgan Dam Reservoir

From Doddabetta, we made our way to Mudumalai National Park. It is located in the foothills of the Nilgiris, a couple of hours from Ooty. The road to the foothills has some 36 steep curves along the way, yes I was counting. One might get dizzy. Thankfully the roads are good and clean. It is heartening to see that Ooty has a “No Plastics” policy. It will do them good in the long run.

The cloudy sky had started to clear by afternoon and the Jeep ride from Ooty to Mudumalai was absolutely serene. It felt really good in the soft sunshine after the blitzy chill of Doddabetta. We weren’t lucky enough to catch much wild animals except for a few peacocks and a herd of Bisons. One has to come early to spot the wild animals. A row of lovely Gulmohars greeted us at the at the Glenmorgan Dam Reservoir, deep inside Mudumalai National Park. A very peaceful place where one can just laze around for hours. While coming back we took a break at the one and only Cafe Coffee Day. The food was good and the break did us some good since we had been travelling all morning.

Pykara Falls

After taking some rest at Cafe Coffee Day, we headed out towards Pykara Lake. This lake is situated some 25 km from Ooty. We had to leave the car and walk for some 15 mins from the entrance. Even though the place is beautiful with lush green surrounding and a series of cascades, the man-made park and railings take away the feeling of “being in nature.” The river has a dam & a Power Plant. Pykara Lake is formed by the back waters of this Dam. Surrounded by forests, locally known as Sholas, Pykara Lake is a lovely place to spend some time in the evening. We spent a couple of hours there and headed back to the hotel by 6 p.m.

Sims Park, Connoor

On the final day of our trip, we headed out to Connoor. The SIMS Park has some colorful flowers beds, lawns and rockeries. On the right are some Hydrangeas. In Japan, its leaves are used make sweet tea. The flowers itself are mildly toxic and should not be consumed.

After enjoying the colors at SIMS, we went a bit further in Connoor towards the Dolphin Peak. It feels like the mountain ranges end here. From the top we could see vast stretches of flat land, like the mountain ranges ended right there. A herd of Bisons were moving around among the tea fields. Nearby a  worker was explaining to the tourists, the process of gathering the best leaves. They also had some tea picker costume for the girls. Mani got into one and obliged me with a couple of cool snaps. There was a small tea shop selling various flavored tea. We bought a chocolate flavored tea from there. By afternoon we were ready to head back to Ooty. We stopped at a very nice restaurant along the way, had some lunch and then headed back to the hotel.

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Botanical Garden

We were back in Ooty by 4p.m. We had a few hours left till our bus ride back to Bangalore so we went for a quick visit to the Botanical garden. The Botanical Garden in Ooty is home to around 650 species of plants and trees. They also have an amazing flower show each year during the month of May. I just lay down on the soft grass looking back at the fabulous time we had at Ooty. We spent some time there till dusk. We were both a bit hungry, so, we walked down the road to a Pizza Hut restaurant.  We stayed there till it was an hours time for the bus departure. We hailed an auto to the bus stand. I had no idea it would take us just 10 mins to reach. We were quite a bit early and the bus stand was desolate. We couldn’t just wait there for an hour so we went back to town center and had a coffee. We came back around half an hour later. The bus was already there.

Back to the world of mortals

Even as we started our ride back to Bangalore, I was already planning to come back again to this fantastical place. Hopefully during Winter.
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  • It’s not a good idea to visit in the Monsoon. It’s so best to visit this between August – Jan
  • When visiting Doddabetta do get some warm clothes, the temperature falls rapidly here.
  • The Botanical Garden conducts a flower show in the month of May.
  • if you are searching for the Nilgiris Train on Indian Railways website to book tickets, use the name Udhamangalam. Ooty will not give you any search result.
  • Full day (8 hr) car rental costs around Rs. 1500

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Seagate Central 3TB Personal Cloud Storage NAS

As the camera mega-pixels increases, so does the hunger for backup space. My new D7100 takes photos at 24MP and soon I found myself searching through online forums for a good backup solution. I already had a Seagate 2TB BackUp Plus but it involved to many wires, so this time I was leaning towards a wireless solution. After a bit of searching I finally ended up with two options: The WD My Cloud NAS and the Seagate Central NAS. The WD My Cloud devices were a bit more pricey so I went with Seagate Central 3TB.

Compact Design

Its a black device, very light in fact lighter than my Seagate 2TB BackUp Plus and about twice the size of an 3.5-inch internal hard drive.The top of the device is composed of a mesh grille that largely resembles the front of a speaker and helps to keep the HDD inside from overheating.. On the back it has one Gigabit Ethernet port and one USB port. Do not use the USB port to connect directly to your computer/laptop. It can only be used as an extra backup solution.

Setting up Seagate Central

The Central’s Web interface opened by itself in the browser: http://seagate.com/central/setup. I just followed the instructions to detect the NAS server and create my user account which I was going to use to log into the server’s Web interface. Once setup, you can always return to this interface via the server’s IP address.

[su_highlight background=”#99cdff”]Note: Bookmark the web interface link in your browser or you will lose it.[/su_highlight]

Connecting the NAS

Connecting the Central to my laptop was pretty easy. I just connected the device to my WiFi router and that was it. I could see the new drive in “My Computer.” What was more difficult was getting to install the “Seagate Dashboard.” It kept running into an error with admin security privileges. Eventually I had to run the install-able via “Run As Administrator.”  The Dashboard lacks the functionality to make any setting changes. One has to use the Web Interface for those.

seagate-central-dashboard

The Seagate Central by default had this public folder. Once I created my account it created another folder with the username. Its a very practical and helpful that I can store my shared data like music on the Public folder and my sensitive data in my private folders. Data on the public folder can also be used as a centralized media library where I can wirelessly stream my movies, music and photos to a DLNA device on my home network.

Seagate Central is a single-volume storage device, this helps to keep it small and compact but on the flip side it doesn’t provide data protection against hard-drive failure.  Advanced NAS Servers – multiple-volume storage spaces offer much faster speed and also data protection but are pretty expensive. So I set up my old 2TB Backup drive connected via the USB, as a precautionary backup, just in case.

I am yet to test out the web interface for accessing files, but I don’t have my hopes high since most online reviews don’t give them much points on that count.

Facebook Backup

The Seagate Central also offers Facebook backup services. Under the Social tab, you can add a Facebook account. When you do, all of your photos and videos from Facebook are copied onto the NAS. But not sure why one would use it if they already have Google Auto-backup setup on the smartphone, which is in my opinion a much better option and the photos on your laptop/desktop are already backed up to Central. Facebook compresses the photos too much, I would rather save my original photos. The Web Interface also contains the link to the Android Store for the app to connect my Android Tablet and Smartphone to the Central.

Performance

Performance-wise, it offered around 8MBps over the WiFi and around 20MBps over the wired network, I WILL need to upgrade my router. I believe the speed can be improved significantly at least over the wired connection.

Pros

  • The Seagate Central is much cheaper than other advanced NAS servers in the same capacity.

Cons

  • The Android app doesn’t seem to be able to connect to private folders
  • Each time I open the Seagate Central App on the Android, it tries to connect again.
  • Major performance lag. The auto backup feature totally saps my Laptop’s 8 GB memory. Cant get anything to work while it does its job. Had to disable it eventually.
  • WiFi speeds have to be greatly improved for it to qualify as a wireless backup solution.

Conclusion

For a variety of reasons, I would rather get a WD My Cloud over the Seagate Central. The device doesn’t fail in what its supposed to do but the software leaves much room for improvement.

Update: I recently upgraded to Netgear N750 Wireless Dual-Band Gigabit Router, but I don’t see any speed difference. I am still connecting to the 2Ghz network from my Viao. I do experience better streaming of movies to my phone that is able to connect to the 5 Ghz network.

Please comment if you have had better file transfer speeds than 10mb/sec using Wifi. I would really like to know how.

 

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