Journals

Finding peace at Shanti Stupa

The unique beauty of Ladakh lures visitors from all across the globe. The union territory is geographically located in the westernmost extension of the Tibet plateau. Its name ‘Ladakh’ literally means “the land of passes.” The capital city, Leh, hosts the only airport. During the winter months, Ladakh is completely cut off from the rest of the country.

As summer approaches, tourists queue up in hoards to lose themselves in the serenity, tranquility, and spirituality of this desolate world. Also known as “Little Tibet” the city is known for its colorful culture and rich traditions of Mahayana Buddhism that still flourishes in the purest form in this region.

Shanti Stupa is one of several must-visit destinations in Leh. Surrounded by lofty mountains it has a special place in the cultural history of Ladakh. This white-domed Stupa on a hilltop in Leh was conceived by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu, Gyomyo Nakamura as part of the Peace Pagoda mission.

Walk to Shanti Stupa

We had spent the earlier part of the day exploring Namgyal Tsemo Gompa and Leh Palace. All the walking had left us tired. We took a brief rest at the Shaolin Guest House, and then towards early evening, left for the peace pagoda.

Shaolin Guest House lies a couple of kilometers east of the Shanti Stupa. We walked down Sankar Road and then onto the Shanti Stupa Road. The walk is not difficult but it is not recommended for tourists coming from the plains as they might experience breathlessness because of the high altitude.

It is advisable that you take the first day off and just relax. It will help your body to acclimatise to the thin air in Leh.

Midway through the walk we were greeted by the picturesque Poplar trees. With its towering height, the Poplars stand distinctly in the landscape of Leh. These Poplar trees are said to mature very quickly growing up to 8 feet in the very first year. In the barren desert with almost no vegetation, the brilliant green trees are a sight for sore eyes. On the way, we passed by many small single-floor houses, some made of bricks and some of mud. The boundary of these dwellings are marked with medium-height ash-colored brick walls.

As we reach the outskirts of the city, the road starts to go uphill and the houses gradually disappear. The evening was breezy and we didn’t feel any discomfort hiking up the hill.

The Shanti Stupa road would be the easiest way to reach the Stupa. The motorable road leads right up to the gates of the Stupa. One can also reach here by climbing near-500 steps from the opposite side of the hill but in my opinion, it is not a recommended route for the unfit.

It was 7 pm by the time we reached the entrance of the Stupa. The Sun had hid behind the mountains but the light was still great. Situated on the hilltop at Changspa at a height of 4267 meters, the Stupa provides wonderful panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.

Buddhism in Ladakh

It is said Buddhism penetrated Ladakh during the time of Emperor Ashoka in around 204 BC. But even before the reign of Ashoka, the Arhat Majhantika blessed these lands with his visit and prophesied this region becoming a stronghold for the Buddhist religion in the Himalayas. Ladakh was in those times known as Mar-yul (Red Land).

It cannot be denied however that it was during Ashoka’s reign that Buddhism spread rapidly and took a stronghold in this part of the world. The indigenous community which were mostly nomadic and lived off meat at that time, gradually absorbed the concept of vegetarianism that is still followed today.

The reign of Ashoka also introduced the religion in Japan. The teachings of Buddha aroused new consciousness in the people of Japan and thus rose Todaiji, the greatest of the Buddhist temples in the world. And this brings us to the Shanti Stupa which stands for Leh as a mark of the friendship between two countries connected by a religion of peace.

History of Shanti Stupa

The idea of Shanti Stupa has its roots in a vision conceived many years before by Nichidatsu Fujii. Nichidatsu Fujii [1885-1985] more commonly known as Guruji, was the founder of the Buddhist religious order, Nipponzan Myohoji, which is dedicated to working for world peace through Peace Walks and the construction of Peace Pagodas across the world.

Around 1842, repeated invasions of Ladakh by the Kashmiri rulers shook Buddhism at its roots. Led by Maharaj Gulab Singh, the Dogra rulers undermined the aristocracy of Ladakh and brought about what is regarded as the darkest hour in the history of Buddhism in Ladakh. Alien to the local culture, they did considerable damage to the gompas and the stupas in the region. As a part of his mission to resurrect Buddhism back in Ladakh Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura conceived the idea of building the Shanti Stupa in Leh.

Shanti Stupa in Leh

Construction of the Shanti Stupa began in April 1983 under the supervision of Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura and Kushok Bakula, a lama from Ladakh. The project was built with the help of Ladakhi Buddhists, who offered voluntary labor, and Japanese Buddhists, who consider India as the “sacred” birthplace of the Buddha.

The Shanti Stupa holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama. The 14th and current Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso inaugurated the Shanti Stupa in August 1991 celebrating 2500 years of Buddhism.

The beautiful Stupa today stands as a symbol of the friendly ties between the people of Japan and India. Since its inauguration, Shanti Stupa has become a popular tourist attraction. The Stupa overlooks the city of Leh, providing panoramic views of the city, the village of Changspa, Namgyal Tsemo in the distance, and the surrounding mountains.

Depictions of Buddha at Shanti Stupa

We waited for the dusk to arrive hoping the tourists would clear by then. Far away we could see the sun set over the lovely city of Leh. Mountains are the crowning glory of the region, as they stand tall, overpowering, and majestic in myriad colors.

The Shanti Stupa features a photograph of the current Dalai Lama with the relics of the Buddha at its base. The Stupa is built as a two-level structure. The first level features the central relief of Dharmachakra with deer on each side.

As we move up the stairs we face the central structure that features an image of Lord Buddha in golden color sitting on a platform turning the Dharmchakra wheel.

On the same level, as you walk around the circular path, we can find three other images depicting the birth of Buddha, the defeating of devils in meditation and the death of Buddha along with many small images of meditating Buddha, embossed in vibrant colors.

Both levels feature a series of smaller meditating Buddha reliefs along the walls of the central structure.

And the most important of all the Nirvana tablet that features the Buddha lying on his right side with his head supported by a pillow or his propped-up hand and elbow. Though this representation of the Buddha can indicate sleeping or resting, it is most commonly a representation of the final moments at the end of the life of the Buddha.

Parinirvana is a Mahayana Buddhist festival that marks the death of the Buddha.

Called maha parinirvana, this transitional state occurs only to those who have reached enlightenment, or nirvana, during their lifetime. Those who achieve nirvana are released from samsara, the cycle of rebirth, and karma. Instead, when they die, they reach nirvana-after-death or the eternal Self. It is also known as Nirvana Day and is celebrated on February 15th. Buddhists celebrate the death of the Buddha because they believe that having attained Enlightenment, he achieved freedom from physical existence and its sufferings.

Evening at Shanti Stupa

Dusk was upon us and the lights along the Stupa were gradually lighting up one by one. The crowd had dispersed by the evening, allowing for a more tranquil experience in this remote yet captivating locale. The white-colored domed-shaped structure looked extremely beautiful during the night when it was illuminated.

It was dark soon and the sky was lit with a billion stars. The moon was nowhere to be seen even though the Amavasya (New Moon) had passed a couple of days back. On the way downhill a cafe was still open where we gathered some warmth with a hot tea and a bag of chips. It was late and we were the only guests at the dimly lit cafe.

The walk downhill was relatively easy. Although by that time it was pitch dark. The area is devoid of any street lights. Holding hands and armed with a torch we slowly made our way back to the Hotel. It was a walk that I will always remember.

In 1974, when Ladakh was first opened for tourism, around 400 to 500 tourists used to visit a year, and with time the numbers rose every year. Today in 2018, around 6 to 7 Lakh tourists visit Ladakh every year. Tourism can be a double-edged sword. It can bring economic benefits but can also harm the environment and local communities. As a tourist, we must try to respect the local culture and not be disruptive to the environment.

Our upcoming schedule takes us to Nubra valley where if I am fortunate, I look forward to capturing some nice dunes. Your interest and interaction are incredibly valuable to me. Feel free to share your thoughts, comments, or questions – I would love to hear from you.

Visitor Information

Timings

The Stupa is open for tourists between 5:00 a.m. and 9:00 p.m

How to reach Shanti Stupa?

The Stupa can be reached by a drivable road or on foot using a series of 500 steep steps to the hilltop.

What is the most delicious food in Leh?

The most popular ladakhi foods are Thukpa (noodle soup) and Tsingmo (steamed buns).
When in Ladakh also enjoy the buckthorn juice which is indigenous to the union territory

What are the best restaurants in Leh?

Tibetan Kitchen and Gesmo are two of my favorite restaurants in Leh. If you are up for a coffee, you must try Lehvenda in the main market area. It is amazing.

Hike to Avani Betta

This is a two-part series. I started writing it as a single story because they are so intimately intertwined, but the article got so big that it made more sense to break it up into two parts for ease of reading.

Avani is a tiny hamlet in the Mulbagal Taluk (group of villages) of Kolar district, just 80 km away from Bangalore. The first part of my journal describes the history of Avani and the story behind the creation of the Ramalingeswara group of temples that lie at the base of Avani hill or Avani Betta as it is locally called.

Apart from activities for young millennials like hiking or photography, Avani is also a place of considerable antiquity. During ancient times it used to be called Avantika Kshetra and was of great sanctity in this part of Bharatvarsha (India). According to legend, the hill was residence of sage and poet, Valmiki, the author of Ramayana.

After a thorough exploration of the 10th century Ramalingeswara temple, I and my wife, Ranita, started on the hike towards the hillock – made popular by the epic tale of Ramayana. Every boulder on this hillock has deep mythological connections. The hill finds mention in a Bana inscription from 339 CE. In another, it is referenced as “Gaya of the South.”

The hill finds mention in a Bana inscription from 339 CE.

For those who are not so familiar with this part of the story of Ramayana – when lady Sita was banished by Rama, her husband, and the king of Ayodha, it is said that sage Valmiki sheltered her here at his ashram (hermitage). The local folklore goes further to establish that Sita, after being sent to exile, gave birth to her twins Luv and Kush right here at Avani.

Avani Betta Trek

The Avani Betta Trek is relatively an easy one. The hillock has steps carved in to make the climb easier. Still, it is advised to begin the trek before the blazing afternoon sun comes up. It was only early March and yet it was extraordinarily hot.

Midway through the climb, there is a cozy resting place surrounded by huge boulders. Created about 3-4 billion years back, these boulders are witness to everything humanity has ever achieved. The strong breeze was comforting and we sat down for a breather among some of the oldest granite rocks in the world.

The trail gradually opens out into a wide space filled with interestingly shaped boulders, some precariously placed. One of the common sights at this place is small stacks of stones put together all over the hill. These are prayer stones, created mostly by childless couples who frequent the Sita Parvati temple at the summit, wishing for a child of their own.

We found ourselves surrounded by multiple boulders in different shapes and sizes on this wide area of the hill. These boulders are a part of what is known as the Eastern Dharwar Craton. A craton is a piece of the Earth’s crust that has existed as a solid since they were first formed on this planet. Since then, they have been pressured and eroded by weathering agents forming somewhat recognizable shapes from our current lives. In my opinion, this one looks like a part of a burger bread.

Beside the “burger bread” rock, this boulder on the edge looks like a flying saucer caused by the natural forces over millions of years of erosion. Don’t you think these strangely shaped boulders have been strategically placed as opposed to hurled as in the case of volcanic eruptions?

Next to these boulders, you can find a small pond, said to be created by Lakshman, brother-in-law of Sita, to help her obtain water on the hill. Logically it doesn’t fit into the timeline of the historical tale as the brothers Rama and Lakshman never knew about the whereabouts of Sita during the time of her exile. Honestly many folklores should be taken with a pinch of salt. They don’t have any hard evidence as to anything mentioned in the article, but the belief certainly was strong enough to last centuries.

I loitered around a bit trying to find better angles to capture the boulders. Doesn’t this one look like a carrot?

En route to the summit, we came across various caves, which once belonged to sage Valmiki and Sita respectively along with other residents of the hermitage. The descriptions though are in Kannada, so if you don’t understand the language, it’s better to hire a guide who can explain in yours.

This is the most beautiful section of the hill. Open spaces, lovely breeze, trees to provide shade, sigh… it would make a wonderful place to set up a night camp.

Below is a cave where sage Valmiki is said to have lived. He performed penances in this cave. The mud here is considered sacred and is believed to have medicinal properties. I have heard, local villagers collect this mud, soak it in water and then drink that water in the belief that it will cure their illness. It is said Luv and Kush took birth in this very cave.

By this time I was a bit dehydrated and on top of that, I realized I had left my water bottle in the car. We stood in the shade for a while before moving on. Although the sun was beating down upon us, the massive boulders kept us in the shade. The strong breeze helped.

Further up the trail, we found a natural pond, which is believed to be the place where the ashram residents used to wash their clothes. Today, lovely lotus flowers adorn the pond.

Below is a close-up of the same boulder we have been seeing from the base of the hill. It is kind of a trademark boulder that identifies the hill from the others surrounding the region. It is said Sita witnessed the battle between Luv-Kush and Rama from the top of this boulder.

Sita Parvati temple atop the hill

There is a last bit stretch of stairs right after the pond that took us straight to the temple.

It took us about an hour to reach the summit. Of course, it can be done faster with younger feet. The hill to the west of Kolar called the Shatasringa Parvata or ‘Hundred-Peaked Mountain’ is ‘Antharagange’, associated with the story of Parasurama and his fight with King Kartaviryarjuna over Surabhi, the divine cow.

As the story goes, King Kartavirya Arjuna (Sahasrarjuna) and his army visited Jamadagni, Parasurama’s father, when the king demanded the magical cow from Jamadagni. When Jamadagni refused, the King sent his soldiers to take the cow, but Parashurama killed the entire army and the king with his axe. In return, the princes beheaded Jamadagni. Thus, Parasurama took an oath to behead the entire Kshatriya race, which is said to have taken place on the hills. It is said that the ‘kolahala‘ on the death of Kartaviryarjuna gave its name to the town, which later became Kolar.

This is the main temple in Avani and is one of the few temples which has the deity of Sita worshiped here. This ashram is also the place where according to legend, Sita eventually becomes one with the Earth. We were early. The inner sanctum was closed, unfortunately, the priest hadn’t arrived yet.

According to ancient scripts, it was initially a Parvati temple. Locals say that goddess Parvati appeared to Adi Shankaracharya in his dream and expressed her desire to establish a Sita statue next to hers. A deeply devoted Adi Shankaracharya executed her wish and since this temple came to be known as Sita Parvati Temple.

We took some rest after reaching the summit. The landscape surrounding the Avani hill is full of small lakes and scattered boulders.

The plateau is interrupted by hills and mountains of varying heights, particularly in the north. After a refreshing rest, we started our descent. On the way back we saw some people making their way up the hill – to the temple.

Festivals at Avani

A yearly fair (Jatra) is held in Avani during the Maha-Shivaratri festival. A Ratha Yatra is also held in July at the Ramalingeshwara Temple. Many devotees visit the temple during this time but they also leave behind a mess.

Ride back to Bangalore

The hike had left us sapped of energy. The descent was a lot quicker and after grabbing a couple of soft drinks from a village store, we began our ride back to Bangalore taking back with us, a slice of history.

On the way, we stopped at a marigold farm to take some pictures.

The drive back to Bangalore was more or less uneventful and we were home by 2 pm.

If you are a person who loves history or someone who just wants to get away from the city’s buzz – this place is an easy getaway. The hike, though easy is still fulfilling. The heritage attached to the place is interesting and keeps it from becoming just another boring hike.

For non-Kannada visitors language will be a bit of a problem. Kannada is the main language spoken in the district of Kolar. You can also find some Telugu speakers.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my travels on Instagram.

What is the difficulty level of the Avani betta trek?

It is a relatively easy trek

Is parking available near Avani betta?

There is no parking lot near Avani betta

Do we need to obtain permission to hike Avani betta?

No prior permission is required to hike to Avani betta, however, please be considerate of local customs and beliefs

Exploring the Ramalingeswara Temple

The amazing thing about living in Bangalore is that in any direction I choose, each road going out of the city leads us to some special location, all within a radius of 100 kilometers.

Today we drive to a remote village called Avani to explore a 10th-century temple. Avani is a small village in Karnataka in the Kolar district, situated at a distance of 80 km from Bangalore.

It was February and the skies appeared so blue and devoid of haze, it was just vanilla to the eyes. So on an early Saturday morning, we jumped into our SUV and left towards Kolar.

Bangalore to Avani

The NH75 leading towards Kolar is fascinating. It is a pleasure to drive on these well-maintained roads, never mind the measly toll I had to pay twice.

The high-rise buildings along Whitefield were soon replaced by empty stretches of land with nothing but rocks and boulders. Along the way, my wife, Ranita spotted a lovely tree standing by itself in the endless barren land.

After crossing Kolar, we left the highway and turned right at the RPG Service Station. We drove for another 6 km along a pebbled road before we reached a settlement. A local villager helped us on our way towards the Ramalingeswara temple, which lies at the base of Avani Betta (hill).

The temple is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) as a monument of national importance. Even though the temple structures were created sometime between the 9th-10th century, as per the ASI an inscription here dates way back to 399 CE.

Mythology of Avani

The name Avani is of Dravidian origin. It means “Earth”. The village finds a mention in history dating back to the days of the epic tale of Ramayana. Though it is debatable as Ramayana was written sometime around 500 BC. It is said that sage Valmiki’s ashram was located on a nearby hillock called Avani betta and it was here that the twin sons of Rama; Luv and Kush were given birth by Sita.

This part of the story when Sita lives in this ashram carries on from the time when Rama ascended the throne of Ayodhya. A rumor began doing the rounds about Sita, his wife, questioning her chastity due to her being kidnapped and kept as a prisoner by the Asura king Ravana.

According to the mythology, even the Gods attested to the chastity of Sita during the agni-pariksha, where she walked through fire to prove her purity. King Rama, in order to set an example of an ideal king, banished, would-be mother, Sita into exile. Banished and helpless, she was provided shelter by sage Valmiki in his ashram at Avani. I will not go into details about how she reached Avani from Ayodhya, which are more than 2000 km apart, but let us just enjoy the story.

Sita was very much distressed about being exiled, especially because she was already pregnant at that time. She started living in the ashram of sage Valmiki, heartbroken, always thinking about Rama. In due course, she gave birth to twin boys, who were named Luv and Kush.

Valmiki raised them in his ashram, imparting them all his Vedic knowledge. Even though he didn’t inform them of their parentage, he raised them like Kshatriyas (warriors). Years passed and the boys grew into adolescents.

Back in the kingdom of Ayodhya, it was advised to Rama that he perform the Ashvamedha yagya. The Ashvamedha yagya was used by ancient Indian kings to prove their imperial sovereignty. As a part of this yagya, a ceremonial horse was left to wander at will for a period of one year. Wherever the horse traversed, any rival could dispute the king’s authority by challenging the warriors accompanying it. However, everyone bowed to the majestic white horse from Ayodhya, accepting the greatness of Rama.

Wandering aimlessly, the horse reached the gates of Valmiki’s ashram. Luv and Kush who were still adolescents were charmed by the majestic white horse and they captured it. They had no idea about the purpose of the horse and brought it into their ashram. When asked to return the horse by the accompanying army, they boldly challenged the warriors to a fight.

As the news spread to Ayodhya, Rama sent Lakshman, his brother, to recover the horse. Against all odds, Lakshman was defeated by the young brothers. He was followed by Bharat and Shatrughan who also tasted defeat at the hands of Luv and Kush.

Surprised and shocked, Rama himself had to come to fight Luv and Kush. A battle broke between Luv-Kush and Rama. But before anything unfortunate happened, rishi Valmiki approached the scene and stopped the battle. He divulged to the kids, their parentage and commanded them to ask for forgiveness from their father.

On knowing the reality of the twin princes, Rama, and his brothers installed four shivalingas each in their respective names to absolve their sin, which they committed by waging war against the two adolescents.

These established shivalingas were called Ramalingeshwara, Lakshmanalingeshwara, Bharathalingeshwara & Shatrugnalingeshwara each for the four brothers. Successive kings later constructed a temple complex around these sacred lingas.

Ramalingeswara group of temples

Parking our car in front, we entered 10th-century temple through a huge gateway. The ancient temples known as the Ramalingeshwara group of temples were constructed during the period of the Nolamba reign. The Nolambas were a relatively minor South Indian dynasty compared to the Cholas, Chalukyas, and the Vijaynagara empire. They were feudatories of the Rashtrakutas and ruled over the south-eastern region of Karnataka which covers present-day Kolar and Tumkur. They were Shaivites and the temples they built were dedicated to Shiva. They ruled from 735 to 1052 CE and are also credited with the creation of the Bhoganandishwara Temple in Nandi.

The temples in the complex are built with granite blocks in the Dravidian style and they were initially commissioned by the Nolamba dynasty. Once the Cholas overpowered the Nolamba, they added some renovations of their own.

As I mentioned earlier, the temple complex comprises four main shrines dedicated to the four brothers – Rama, Lakshman, Bharat, and Shatrughan. It is said these lingas were installed by Rama and his brothers themselves in order to seek forgiveness from Shiva for fighting with Sita’s children – Luv and Kush.

Ramalingeshwara Temple

It was still early in the day and we were the only ones at the temple complex. The first structure we went inside was the Ramalingeshwara temple. It is sandwiched between the Lakshmaneshwara temple and the Shatrugnalingeshwara temple.

The temple consists of a sanctum (garbhagriha), a vestibule (antarala) and a hall (navaranga) with decorative pillars. The temple porch and pillars are decorated with various deities. I could make out a depiction of Trivikrama on the southern wall. This pillar, just before the entrance below has Ganesha carved into it.

On another pillar, I found this carving of a warrior. It could be a depiction of the war fought here.

The walls of the temple are also designed with various images of gods surrounded by floral motifs. The inner sanctum of the temple was poorly lit but I was able to snap this shot of the main deity, goddess Parvati.

You might be surprised to know that of all the existing religions only the Sanatan dharma followed by Hindus in India worship female goddesses.

Lakshmaneshwara Temple

To the west of the Ramalingeshwara temple lies the shrine dedicated to his younger brother Lakshman. The outer walls have pilasters surmounted by towers (shikhara).

This temple also has a garbhagriha, an antarala, and a navaranga. It is the most ornate of all the temples and houses the largest shivalinga. A Nandi statue sits near the doorway facing the shivalinga.

The big hall called navaranga is supported by four beautifully carved pillars with a rounded shivalinga at the far end. The pillars in the center depict dancers and musicians. Shielded from the wind and sun by the surrounding walls, they still have the carvings in a very healthy state.

Another interesting aspect of this temple is the carvings on the ceiling which display a sculpture of Uma-Mahesvara (Shiva with his consort Parvati) surrounded by an ensemble of ashtadikpalas (guardians in eight directions).

Let me give you a closer look at this fabulous work of art.

After exploring the interiors we walk towards the back of the temple where you can find a daring carving of the Kali goddess.

Apart from goddess Kali there are other gods and goddesses along the wall of the Lakshmaneshwara Temple. At the base pedestal of the Lakshmaneshwara Temple, you can see some really old inscriptions that have help understanding the history of the place. Many of them are barely visible because of constant erosion.

Beyond the Lakshmaneshwara Temple, the path turns north. In a corner, you can find another small temple called the Vigneshwara Temple with a small and beautiful idol of Ganesha

Shatrugneshwara Temple

On the east of the Ramalingeshwara Temple lies another similar temple, which is called the Shatrugneshwara Temple. It has a similar design as the Lakshmaneshwara Temple with decorated pillars and a ceiling. The Nandi statue here is missing. Maybe it was broken or more probably stolen.

This temple too has various deities carved into the ceiling with Uma-Mahesvara in the center.

This hall is also supported by decorated hexagonal pillars depicting dancers.

After exploring these three main temples, we went around to the northern part of the temple complex. Along the way, we captured some shots of deities along the walls of the Shatrugneshwara Temple.

This is an image of Natesha along the walls of the Shatrugneshwara Temple

The pedestal of this temple too contains some inscriptions which are in a much better condition than from the Lakshmaneshwara Temple. The external decorative elements of the temples for all shrines include friezes of elephants and lions. The design pattern is consistent with the temples in Hampi that were created during the heights of the Vijayanagar empire.

Right after, there is a mini temple dedicated to Vali and Sugreeva, the kings of Kishkindha.

Navagraha Temple

Just behind the Vali Temple is a mandap housing the Navagraha (the nine planets). What is Navagraha? It is the 9 other planets in the Solar System. Do not confuse this number with the total number of planets in our Solar system. In Vedic Astrology, Moon, Rahu, and Ketu are also considered planets. Anyways, it is still awesome to conclude that while the world was still debating whether the Earth was flat or not, Indian sages already knew about the existence of 7 planets that made up our Solar system. Take that Cambridge scholars!

..while the world was still debating whether the Earth was flat or not, Hindu sages had not only learned about the existence of 7 planets in the Solar system, but also how they exert themselves on human existence

The Hindus believe that Navagrahas play a key role in their destiny. and are responsible for all the good or bad times one faces in life. According to Vedic Astrology, significance is attached to the positions of the nine planets in the twelve constellations of the zodiac. People believe that the transition of Saturn, Jupiter, Rahu, and Ketu from one zodiac sign to another sign will bring good or bad or mixed fortunes.

Coming around a full circle, we found ourselves in front of a big Nandi sculpture.

From here we walked towards the back of the temple grounds.

At the back of the temple, we found a pranala jutting out of the temple. The pranala is a discharge outlet attached to the wall of the sanctum. It is used to discharge the abhisheka-teertham water, milk, ghee, etc. poured over the temple idols during worship.

From the back of the temple complex, one can see Avani hill in the background which we will be hiking later.

After a thorough exploration of the temples, we moved on towards the Avani hill, where at the summit, another piece of the puzzle of Ramayana waits for us.

Hidden away in obscurity, Ramalingeshwara Temple is another gem in the heritage of Karnataka. It is interesting that these places with connections to Ramayana keep popping over all over the place. Structurally maybe these might not be as amazing as the monolithic temples of Mahabalipuram or the enchanting monuments in Hampi, but these stories keep my interest going. Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post. After exploring the temple complex, we set off for the hike to Sita Parvati temple at the top of Avani betta.

What is the best time to visit Ramalingeshwara Temple?

An annual festival is held for seven days from the 14th day of Magha-Bahula in honor Ramalingeshwara.

Heritage walk to Vittala Temple

Today I went on a heritage walk to the majestic Vittala Temple. Built around the 15th century CE, and expanded several times by succeeding kings of the Vijayanagar empire, it is the epicenter of Hampi’s attractions. This time, I was in Hampi along with a trekking group from Bangalore.

It was another day of missed opportunities. I was awake at 5 am, ready for new experiences in Hampi. We were supposed to observe the sunrise from Anjaneya hill as per schedule but our trek leader himself got up at 6 am and by that time hiking up Anjaneya hill was a lost cause.

I wandered around the open spaces near our lodging. it was pleasant with no vehicular pollution or noises in the serene surroundings.

By the time everyone was ready, it was already 9 am. We drove down to Anegundi, the nearest town where we took our breakfast in one of the local dhabas. The idlis, served by a lovely lady were delicious. Just across the street, a wooden Rath was stationed. These chariot like structures are used during the rath festival in these parts.

From there the bus dropped us off near Talwar Gatta, where a ferry helped us across to the other side. Honestly, I was a bit scared, since they didn’t have any life jackets and one is always hearing about ferries toppling over in India.

History of Hampi

Hampi, believe it or not, the whole town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was traditionally known by many names, the prominent ones being Pampapura or Pampakshetra. These names were derived from Pampa which was the name of the river Tungabhadra in those ancient times.

The recorded history of Hampi goes back a long way. Archaeologists have discovered rock edicts from the time of Emperor Asoka in Bellary, not very far from here, dating 269-232 BCE, suggesting this region could have been a part of the Maurya Empire way back in the 3rd century BCE.

Along-with the prosperity of the Vijaynagar empire, Hampi became a centre of religious and educational activities. But I would be biased to other dynasties if I only sing praises of the Vijaynagara kings. Hampi had already gained quite popularity by the 10th century. Inscriptions at Virupaksha temple, a kilometer along the Tungabhadra, are evidence to Chalukya kings making land grants to the temple.

Later between the 12th and 14th centuries CE, kings of the Hoysala Empire also built temples dedicated to the goddess Durga and lord Shiva. During this time, Hampi had almost become a secondary home of the Hoysala kings.

With time, it went on to become the epicenter of the Vijayanagar Empire in the 14th century. Chronicles left by Persian and European travelers, particularly the Portuguese, state Hampi was a prosperous, wealthy and grand city near the Tungabhadra River, with numerous temples, farms and trading markets.

By 1500 CE, Hampi was considered the world’s second-largest medieval-era city attracting traders from Persia and Portugal. Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever and the splendor of Hampi attracted many invaders. In 1565, the Vijayanagar Empire was attacked and defeated by a coalition of Muslim sultanates. Its capital was conquered, pillaged and destroyed by sultanate armies leaving the heritage city in ruins. It is said these invaders looted the city over a period of six months, snatching the valuables and burning all that remained to the ground.

History of  Vittala Temple, Hampi

After a short walk from the river, I found myself at the parking area for Vittala Temple. From here visitors can either wait for a buggy or simply walk to the temple, which is a bit of a distance away. A queue had already built up, so if you desire a peaceful experience please come early. While others in my trek group waited for the guide, I made my way to the temple.

The Vittala temple was originally built in the 15th century AD, during the reign of King Devaraya II (1422 – 1446 A.D.), one of the rulers of the Vijayanagara Empire. Many successive kings have expanded and enhanced the temple campus during their regimes to the present form.

Records from the 16th centure redfer to this complex as “Vitthala.” The temmple complex extends over a distance of about a kilometer. The temple was called the Vijaya Vittala predominantly. In one of the records, it is also mentioned as Kanada Vitthala. It is assumed that the “Vijaya” in the name Vijaya Vitthala indicates a celebration victory.

The road leading to the temple is in a completely ruined state. This road was once the location of a thriving market place. The market was known as the Vittala Bazaar and was famous for horse trading. The ruins of the market can be seen on both sides of the road.

The buggy dropped me off near the entrance tower. One typically accesses the campus through the eastern gate, next to which the ticket counter is located. Behind the ticket counter lies the remains of a township called Vittalapura that existed around this temple complex. The first foundations of the temple were laid around 1505 CE. The eastern gate or gopuram was constructed between the years 1513 to 1516.

The Vittala temple complex

The temple is built in the form of a sprawling campus with compound wall and gateway towers. There are many halls, pavilions and temples located inside this campus. The iconic temple has amazing stone structures such as the incomparable stone chariot and the fascinating musical pillars.

The Vittala Temple is also known as Shri Vijaya Vitthala Temple. It is dedicated to Lord Vitthala, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. An idol of Vitthala-Vishnu was enshrined in the temple.

Notable among the structures are the shrine of the Goddess (Devi shrine), Maha Mantapa or main hall (Sabha Mantapa or congregation hall), Ranga Mantapa, Kalyana Mantapa (marriage hall), Utsava Mantapa (festival hall), and the famous Stone Chariot.

The Vijaya Vitthala temple is a stupendous creation of the Vijayanagar artists with few paralells in the architectural history of medieval India. The main attractions of the Vittala Temple are listed below:

Stone Chariot of Vittala Temple

The first structure I noticed was the sculpted Stone Chariot, which is considered to be the most stunning architecture of the Vijayanagara kingdom. Designed in the shape of an ornamental chariot with the idol of Garuda, it is an iconic landmark of Hampi. The structure is classified as a Karakkoil, a temple fashioned after temple chariots which are taken in procession around the temple during festivals.

The Stone Chariot or Ratha stands in the courtyard of complex and welcomes the visitors as they enter the temple grounds. Even though it appears to be one, the Stone Chariot is not a monolithic structure. As per Hindu mythology, Garuda is the carrier of Lord Vishnu and its image is enshrined into the sanctum. The popularity if this iconic sculpture has led to it being part of the Indian currency in the denomination of Rupees fifty.

The stone chariot may be the first structure see as you enter the Vittala complex, but it is also the most recent.

Just like the Shore temple of Mahabalipuram, this shrine was also built with blocks of granite. The joints are cleverly hidden in the carvings and other decorative features that adorn the stone chariot. The chariot was built on a rectangular platform. The base platform is adorned with mythical battle scenes chiseled into the granite on all sides.

The chariot is adorned with a set of four finely sculptured granite wheels. Though the chariot is not resting on it, the four giant wheels are extremely well detailed and good enough to compete with real life ones. A series of concentric floral motifs decorate the sides of the wheels. The platform, where the wheels rest, shows clamps were later added to fix it from moving around the axis. Some older pictures of the stone chariot show it with a shikhara and the kalasha which have now eroded away. The wheels of the stone chariot are said to be once functional and could be rotated by the people. But some years ago the ASI cemented the wheels in order to avoid causing damage to them.

In front of the chariot two elephants are positioned as if they are pulling the chariot. However if you look carefully, you can see the difference in the style of sculpting. These elephants were supposedly added at a later stage after the chariot was completed. Originally two horses were carved in that position. The rear legs of the horses can be still seen just behind these elephant sculptures.

Maha Mandap of Vittala Temple

On leaving the Stone Chariot, I walked down to the main hall in front of the Vittala temple. Unfortunately the entrance to the Maha Mandap was blocked for maintenance. The first time I was here a couple of years back, people used to be allowed inside the main hall.

The Maha Mandapa or main hall of the Vittala Temple is situated in the inner courtyard, bang in the center of the temple complex just behind the Stone Chariot. It is a structure of immense beauty, sitting on a highly ornate base carved with a series of floral motifs. Maha mandap along the axis of the main temple has a pillared hall with three entrances. A series of steps flanked by elephant balustrades gives access to this elevated open hall called the Maha mandap.

The balustrades on the east and west porch of this hall is more dramatic with giant lion Yalis fighting the relatively dwarf elephants.

There are forty pillars lining the facade of the temple. The central part of the Maha Mandap has sixteen intricately decorated pillars having beautiful sculptures of Narasimha and Yali.

These richly carved giant monolithic pillars set of sixteen pillars forms a rectangular court. The sikhara of the Maha Mandap is very much in ruins, more so because it was created out of mud bricks.

The Musical Pillars of the Maha Mantapa:

The Dolotsava Mandap is other main attraction of the Vittala Temple. The most outstanding components of the Vijay Vitthala Temple is the eastern pavilion of the Maha Mandap.It was originally called Dolotsava Mandap or “Hall of Musical Pillars” This large mandap is renowned for its 56 musical pillars carved out of huge single pieces of resonant stone. This cluster of musical pillars are also known as SAREGAMA pillars, named after the notes of the classic Indian music – Sa, Re, Ga, Ma, etc. It is said musical notes are emanated when the pillars are tapped gently.

The original foundations of the Dolotsava Mandap were laid sometime during the reign of two Devarayas (1406 – 1446 CE ) of the Snagama Dynasty. It experienced further expansion during the time of Tuluva Krishnadevaraya (1503 -1528 AD) It was further expanded upon during the reigns of Achyutdevaraya( 1529 – 1546 AD) and Sadasivaraya (1542-1565 AD)

The analysis of these pillars has revealed that the rocks are resonant because of the presence of metallic ore and large amounts of silica.

The base is decorated with carvings of warriors, horses, swans and several other ornamental designs. The lowermost of it is a chain of horses, its trainers and the traders.

Every main pillar is surrounded by 7 minor pillars. These 7 pillars emit 7 different musical notes from the representative musical instruments. The notes emanating from these pillars vary in sound quality depending on whether the instrument is a percussion, string or wind instrument. When one of the columns is struck, the reverberation moves though the other nearby columns. However, if you find yourself at this site on a Sunday afternoon, forget about being able to hear any music over the ‘hum’ of the large crowds that throng this temple.

The emission of musical notes from stone pillars was a mystery that fascinated many people down the centuries. After conquering the region, the Mughals tried to burn down the temple but it turned out futile since the temples were carved out of granite.

After the Mughals, the country fell prey to the British. They too tried to damage the temple every way they could, pillaging away any artifact that could be carried away to their country. Two of these pillars were cut off by the British, who were surprised by the musical notes of the pillars and wanted to examine them in more detail. However, they found out that the pillars had nothing inside them.

I believe that tapping the musical pillars to emit musical notes is now prohibited, as tapping over the years have caused some damage to the musical pillars of the Maha Mandap. But the local guides fake it on the pillars of the other mandaps to please the tourists.

Most of the granite and sandstone towards the base have survived. The influence of Srivaishnava sect is seen at this temple complex which is revealed by observing minor shrines to the south, west and north. Around this main mandapa are four smaller halls: (clockwise from east)

  • Kalyan mandap
  • 100-columned mandap
  • Amman shrine and
  • Bhoga mandap

After capturing the exteriors of the Maha Mandapa, I moved towards the Kalyan mandapa on the left.

Kalyan Mandap

You can find more pictures of the Kalyan Mandap here.

100 Pillar Mandap

The “Hundred Pillared Hall” has altogether 108 pillars in all. It is said to be commissioned in 1554 AD. Below are close-up shots of some of the pillars.

Amman shrine

From the 100 column mandap, I made my way towards the back of the Maha Mandap where a small temple lies un-bothered and unattended by tourists.

Bhoga Mandap

For some reason they built a second marriage hall in the temple grounds. Generally all the temples I have visited only have one Kalyan Mandap. It might well have been for some other reason, the facts of which have been lost to time.

Some other interesting structures around the temple complex

While walking around the complex, I found this lone tree on the grounds. Beside the tree, along the enclosing walls lies a small structure. It is not very decorated and I am not sure about its functionality either, but it looks beautiful. I recall this from the first time I visited Hampi in 2014.

A few steps ahead lies the northern gate. Like the other structures, the base is very much as it was centuries back, but the top parts created using mud are in ruins.

Ruins of Vittala Temple in Hampi

The Vittala Temple is in a partially ruined state. The sanctum of the temple once contained an idol of Lord Vittala. However, now the sanctum is devoid of any idol. The region around the Vittala temple was called Vitthalapura. It hosted a Vaishnava matha (monastery), designed as a pilgrimage centred around the Alvar tradition.

According to historical memoirs left by Portuguese and Persian traders, the city of Hampi was of metropolitan proportions and the Vitthala temple the crown jewel of the kingdom. I have written another article on the still standing ruins of Hampi if you would want to read about the humble beginnings of the forgotten city.

In 1565, at the Battle of Talikota, a coalition of Muslim sultanates entered into a war with the Vijayanagara Empire. They captured and beheaded the king, followed by a massive destruction of the infrastructure of Hampi. The city was pillaged, looted and burnt for six months after the war, then abandoned as ruins. The central western hall of the temple was ruined during the attack of the Delhi Sultanate that eventually led to the downfall of the Vijayanagara Empire in 1565 CE and the end of Hampi.

I have been to Hampi twice and yet it feels like I have to come back many a more times to truly capture its essence in full. I was prepared to stay another day, but the living conditions of our lodgings forced me to catch the bus and head back to Bangalore.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit the mythical birthplace of luv & kush from the epic tale of Ramayana .

Festivals at Vittala Temple in Hampi

The temple has floodlights installed inside the temple complex. The lights illuminate the Vittala Temple Complex at night and offer a majestic view of the beautiful structure against the dark night sky. But if you want to see it, you should come in winter when the days are small. In summers the place closes up well before sunset.

Hampi Festival (November)

This is the largest festival at Hampi. Generally they are scheduled for 3 days during the first week of November. The celebrations typically packed with shows of music, dance puppet shows fireworks and a pomp procession as the grand finale showcasing the cultural richness of the place.

Purandaradasa Aradhana (January/February)

The annual Purandaradasa festival is held at the temple complex. The festival is held every year to commemorate the birthday of the ancient poet Purandaradasa who lived in Hampi. The 2-3 days long program is scheduled during the months of January or February.

Use of tripods is not permitted inside the temple campus.

The monument opens from 8.30 am in the morning to 5.30 pm in the evening. However, try to visit this place soon it opens in the morning. That is the only time you can explore peacefully before the crowd builds up.

Admission fee is Rs 30 for Indian citizens and Rs. 500 for foreign nationals. Preserve this ticket. If you are in Hampi for the whole day, you can use the ticket on the same day to also enter the Zenana Enclosure area.

Built

Early-to-mid-16th century

Built by

King Devaraya II

Admission fee

₹30 for Indian citizens / ₹500 for foreign nationals

Timings

8:30 – 17.30 hrs

Official Website

http://hampi.in/vittala-temple

The Monkey Kingdom of Kishkindha

Today I went to explore the quiet town of Anegundi. I was here with a trekking group from Bangalore. As per the mythological tale of Ramayana, the city used to be known as Kishkindha in ancient times when Vali and Sugreeva, the monkey kings used to rule these lands. The monkeys though have been driven away by the growing number of tourists and it is just the mystifying boulders that remain to tell us the story of what was once a strange but interesting kingdom.

It was 10 am by the time we rode into the ancient city of Anegundi. The all night drive from Bangalore had been a quiet one. The only excitement was provided by the stunning sunrise whence the golden ball of fire rose over the horizon and removed the darkness from this little corner of the earth. Now simply known as Anegundi, the quaint town lies along the Tungabhadra river.

We checked in to our rooms at the lodge. I will prefer not to name it, it was that horrible. All I can say is the living standards were more qualified to be called a sty. After a breakfast of noodles, which took like forever to be served, we marched on to explore the boulders of Anegundi.

The time before Time itself

While writing this article I had to go through many sources. Rummaging through books on history gave me only half the story. To know the origins of Kishkindha I found myself digging into the the study of ancient Earth itself.

Beyond the temples, the huge boulders are the most interesting things around these parts. These brown rusty granite have been polished through 3 billion years into huge rounded shapes which now lean precariously around hills of piled boulders. Surrounded by these rocks, it is hard to imagine any sizeable population to have been supported here, let alone the core of the Vijayanagar empire.

This region is the bedrock of India known as Peninsular Gneiss, the mass of which is amongst the earliest solidified rock on the planet. The rounded contours and grain show it to have once been molten flowing stuff, but then came the sculpturing work of repeated ice ages. This land mass was pushed by the freezing current of the seas. It kept drifting under the pressure from cooling of the earth’s crust until the sub continent rose from the sea as a plateau.

The stage was now set for the mythical tale of Ramayana, in which the area is referred to as Kishkindha on the Papma river – the mythical kingdom of monkeys. The river that I refer to as Pampa is now named Tungabhadra, after the rivers Tunga & Bhadra which join about 10 miles upstream.

Wandering among the Boulders of Kishkindha

The bus dropped us off at a place called Hippie Island. We walked the rest of the way towards the boulders. This was a busy street with many eateries and lodges. Such was the incursion of foreigners that it was difficult to spot the locals among them. On the other side was a vast area flowing with young saplings of paddy. Though the red mud of Karnataka is not favorable for rice cultivation, the river brings in silt making the area fit for rice cultivation. The flat black silted land between the boulder hills and the busy lodges is thickly planted with patches of coconut palms and paddy fields.

Within the hillocks lie a labyrinth of caves. The medieval kingdom of Vijayanagar around present day Hampi, is tightly intertwined with the Ramayana. I would still want to believe that this region of Kishkindha, the kingdom of the Vanaras, or monkeys, referred to in the epic is just a figment of imagination, but I as explore these parts, I find more and more locations for many significant events in Ram’s journey during his exile. Was it just a well told story or real. Lost in this dilemma, I pushed on towards the hillocks.

The Ramayana connection

The story of Ramayana is deeply embedded in the collective psyche of the Hindus the indigenous population of the Deccan. The wide geographical sweep of this narrative has ensured that every corner of this Indian subcontinent, starting from Ayodhya, is associated with different aspects of its story-line.

Kishkindha is identified to be the regions around the Tungabhadra river (previously referred to as Pampa ) near Hampi and belongs to Koppal district in Karnataka. The rocky landscape strewn with massive boulders is widely believed by many to be the fabled Vanara kingdom of the brothers, Vali and Sugreeva.

According to the Ramayana, after Ravana abducts Sita, Ram’s frantic search for his beloved wife brings him and his brother, Lakshman southwards to Kishkindha. It is here that they meet Hanuman.

At the time, Kishkindha’s rulers, brothers Vali and Sugreeva were embroiled in a bitter feud, with the former determined to kill the latter. This part of the tale has its own story, but I am going to elude that in the interests of keeping this article short(er). In short Ram helps Sugreeva defeat his brother ans ascend to the throne, in return for his help in finding Sita.

Bouldering in Hampi

After a 30 minute walk we were at the summit of a small hillock popular for activities like bouldering. Many of the boulders here are sitting at the edge, dangling in precarious angles.

Many of my trek buddies tried their skills at climbing boulders with the help of a local instructor. I am past my days of subjecting my body to these rigors, so I found myself a quiet place in the shadows between some boulders and laid down re-hydrating myself with a bottle of mineral water.

After an hour of lazing in the shade, while the others flexed their muscles in the sun, we walked back to the inhabited area of hippie island. In the strong sun, it was dehydrating. Grabbing a can of sugary indulgence I made my way back towards the bus.

On the way I passed the ancient Hampi bridge, made entirely of rocks. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it had been repaired in some parts. I clearly remember it being in shambles from when I was here a couple of years back.

Once everyone was on the bus, we drove towards our next destination – Sanapur lake.

Sanapur Lake

Sanapur Lake is a reservoir fed by canal from the Tungabhadra Dam. It is beautiful to watch the wide lake in middle of boulders. Apart from the beautiful scenery one can also enjoy coracle rides at the lake, but at their own risk. The rides don’t provide life-jackets.

Sanapur Lake is one of those ‘secret attractions’ around Hampi. Honestly, I was not aware of it, the last time I toured this region. The natural lake with stunning boulder hills all around makes it a beautiful locale to spend the evening.

Sanapur Lake is still a less frequented place. You’ll not find a large tourist crowd in this locale. I was told that this place is sought after for cliff diving even though you can find dozens of warning about crocodiles in the water. 

Evening was arriving at a swift pace and we set off from the lake to hike up one of the hillocks to experience the famous sunset over Anegundi.

Sunset over Kishkindha

Let me confess, I don’t recall the name of this hill. I am not sure if it even has a name. But the trail was clearly marked and we didn’t face any issues making our way up to the top. Because of the haze surrounding the region, the sun hid behind the thick clouds much before the actual sunset.

The trek guides had arranged for a few munchies, packed neatly in a paper bag. With just a couple of gulps remaining in my water bottle, I was rather glad to find a tetra-pack of fruit juice in my energy pack.

The top of this hill has a commanding view of the whole Kishkindha area. The Tungabhadra river passes through these hillocks and boulders. The river, the greenery and the green paddy fields presents a breath-taking scene. One can only imagine the monkey kingdom spanning this whole area during the Ramayana era.

Apart from these prominent locations there are other smaller sites associated with the story. The Sugreeva Cave is a popular tourist stop, is believed to be where Sugreeva placed the jewels that Sita dropped along the way as she was being taken away by her abductor, hoping that they might lead Ram to her.

Conclusion

The location of Kishkindha coincides with Hampi that was capital of the Vijayanagar Empire. It is saddening to see the ruins of the magnificent palace structures and fabulous market areas systematically destroyed by the Deccan Sultanate armies. Most of the temples have also been desecrated in this area. Some massive granite structures and idols were defaced in order to stop the worship in the temples.

But Kishkindha with all its linkages to the timeless stories of Ramayana still attracts numerous pilgrims and historians alike. It has withstood the test of time and escaped the ravages brought about by the marauding barbarians. It is heartening to see that these quaint temples are still intact and have continued to inspire reverence in innumerable visitors.

Thanks for reading. You can also check out Navabrindaban nearby, said to be the island where Prahalad repented for his sins. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit go on a heritage walk to Vitthala Temple in Hampi.

Mahabalipuram Lighthouse

Before we head back to Bangalore, we decided to stop at Mahabalipuram’s old lighthouse. Also known as Olakkanesvara Temple, it is India’s oldest lighthouse, built around 640 CE during the reign of Pallava king Rajasimha.

This lighthouse/temple is categorised as one of the “Group of Monuments” at Mahabalipuram that were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984. Currently, the Pallava era lighthouse is a protected monument, maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Olakkanesvara Temple

The blue gated entrance to the lighthouse is situated a few meters away from the main Mahabalipuram hillock entrance. However one can also visit the lighthouse from the hillock through connected internal paths.

Just outside the entrance one can find a huge wall relief almost similar in stature to the the popular relief known as “Descent of the Ganges.”

Interestingly, this wall relief contains a clone of the depiction of Arjuna’s penance that can also be seen on the edge of the “Descent of the Ganges” relief. For some reason this wall gets a step brotherly treatment as it lies unprotected along the road with fumes from vehicles causing continuous damage to this heritage artifact.

There was no visible parking area nearby. So, I parked my car along the road on the durt road near the entrance.

History of Olakkanesvara Temple

Written records mention that Mahabalipuram was a busy port under the Pallavas as early as the 7th century AD. Bonfires were lit on Mahabalipuram hillock, it being the highest point near the shore, to aid the mariners in the dark. This protected site had warning fires lit on its roof from the 7th century until the 20th century.

Like the Shore Temple, the Olakkannesvara Temple is a structural temple. Its name translates to “flame eye.” It is situated directly above the Mahishasuramardini mandapa on a hillock which provides scenic views of the town. Prior to the construction of the new lighthouse at this site in 1900, the roof of the Olakkannesvara Temple served as the lighthouse.

The climb is not too steep. Stone steps have been chiseled out of the rocky hill to assist visitors.

The structure is built of grey-white granite and faces East. The shikhara or tower of the temple is interpreted to have been built originally to the same style as the Shore Temple tower in Dravidian architectural style. This temple was dedicated to lord Shiva. One can walk around the temp along a narrow circular path. But with no barriers at the edge of the hillock, people with vertigo might feel a flutter. I did.

On each of the four walls are chiseled different avatars of Shiva. On the exterior walls, there are two sculpted images in the niches of the ardha-mandapa. Enclosed within pilasters, these images of Shiva as Kalari killing “Kaala” (Yama) are later additions, not attributable to the Pallavas.

On external walls of the main shrine, there are other niches or devkoshtas; on the south wall the sculpture is of Shiva as Dakshinamurthi under a tree in seated posture, on the west face an image of Shiva and Parvati seated on Kailash Mountain with Ravana trying to shake the mountain.

There is another image on the north wall is of Shiva in the posture of Nataraja. I hear hat sometime towards the end of the eighteenth century, the sivalinga was stolen from the temple.

Just a few meters away lies the new lighthouse.

Climbing down from the old lighthouse we walked towards the new lighthouse for a closer view.

New Lighthouse

The new Lighthouse was built at the turn of the 20th century to keep ships away from the rocky Mahabalipuram headland. The first light was commissioned here in 1887. With a circular masonry tower made of stone, it became fully functional in 1904. Its source of light comes from dis-chargeable lamps, which rotate in bowls of mercury.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my journey as I visit the ancient monkey kingdom of Kishkindha.

Tiger Cave

Today we drive to Saluvankuppam, to explore the excavated remains of a first-of-its type Yali mandapa or Vyala mandapa. The cave temple is widely known as the Tiger cave.

Well, let me begin by clearing the air first that the Tiger Cave is not really a cave and tigers do not live here either. It is a rock-cut Hindu temple complex with carvings of tiger heads around the structure, located near the coastal village of Saluvankuppam near Mahabalipuram. These rock-cut structures with tiger-head-like shapes are believed to have been constructed in the 7th century CE during the Pallava reign.

Among the many sculpted wonders of Mahabalipuram, the Tiger cave is one of the lesser-visited monuments. Located at about a 5km drive from the Shore Temple also makes it somewhat inaccessible. I guess auto rides should be available to this place but I had my car around so that was a big help.

This park is also maintained by ASI, but it doesn’t require any tickets. There was a lone coconut seller near the gate waiting for tourists to come in.

In my earlier articles, I have tried to pen down the numerous caves, excavated in hill-scarps and used as temples around the Mahabalipuram hillock. The Tiger Cave is a prominent example of this form. Just like its counterparts, it was commissioned in the early 8th century by Pallava King Narasimha Varman II also known as Rajshimha.

The gate led us into a big park surrounded by casuarina trees. The Tiger cave is the first structure just after the gate on the right.

Tiger Cave Mahabalipuram

The cave gets its name because of the crown of the carved heads of Yali (mythical creatures with the head of a tiger). Because the Yali head resembles a tiger, that is how I believe the site got its name from. This rock also has a relief sculpture dedicated to Narasimha Varman II.

The structure is more of a rock-cut pavilion than a temple. It is an oblong boulder cut on three sides facing the sea. The floor level of the mandapa is about 6 ft from ground level. A flight of four rock-cut steps projects in front with parapets on either side. The parapets are in the shape of rough-cut forms of lions. At either side of the adisthana, there are two large pillars, also unfinished, showing rampant lions leaping forwards with riders on their backs. The depth of the mandapa would be about 4ft and its height about 6ft.

The facade looks like a stage more than a temple, conveying perhaps it was used as a place for performances. The cave is below ground level and buried to some extent in the sand. The monolithic rock out of which the tiger cave has been chiseled out is in the shape of a sitting tiger. There is a school of thought that this pavilion could have been dedicated to the goddess Durga. The main deity has most possibly been stolen.

A few steps lead up to the cell at the center. Two pilasters on either side and rampant tiger heads surround the sides of the cell. Two other smaller cells on the left have elephant heads chiseled beneath them. At the top, there are eleven heads carved forming an incomplete elliptical arch all around the mandapa. It is important to point out that these heads are not of tigers but of Yali, mythical creatures. Judging from the general style of the vyalas, this site has been attributed to King Rajasimha.

A few paces from the Tiger cave lies a precariously standing boulder. This rocky outcrop close to Tiger Cave contains some very old inscriptions, one of which led to the excavation of the Subrahmanya Temple close by.

The first thing that comes to mind is how in the hell is it standing like that. It’s like it’s molded at the base in that angle. No other reasoning is possible. While standing below I felt an adrenalin rush. It felt it could at any moment just fall and smash me into tomato sauce.

The tiger cave is unique in the way it was sculpted. The combination of the yali and elephant heds left me even more mystified. I have never seen such a combination in any of my explorations.

From the tiger cave, we drove to one of the oldest surviving lighthouses in South India. Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit the old lighthouse in Mahabalipuram.

What are the visiting timings for Tiger cave?

There are no specific times for visits

What is the price for admission to Tiger cave?

Entry to the Tiger cave site is free

The monolithic Pancha Rathas

The Pancha Rathas complex is arguably the most crowded place in Mahabalipuram. The Five Chariots or Panch Rathas are five monolithic temple structures were built by the Pallavas in early 7th century AD. These structures are a part of the Monuments of Mahabalipuram which I have covered in a separate article.

The buildings displaying exquisite carvings have been named individually after Draupadi and the five Pandava brothers though there is no historical basis for it whatsoever. What is even more strange that the Ganesh Ratha found on the Mahabalipuram hill was earlier known as the Arjuna Ratha and the one now called with that name used to be Nakula Ratha.

Moving on…

I tried visiting this place a couple of times before and it was busy as hell, so today I made time in the early morning and drove down to this place. Thankfully it was devoid of the jeering tourists and I could take some nice pictures in the peaceful surrounding.

This compact group of monuments is hewn out of a single rock to form five free-standing monolithic temples. Each of the five structures are chiselled in the shape of rathas or chariots out of large block of stone. They were commissioned during the reign of Narasimha Varman I and are the only monuments of their kind in India. The monuments are a source of many 7th- and 8th-century Sanskrit inscriptions, providing insight into medieval South Indian history, culture, government and religion.

The five rathas have been named as ‘Dharmaraja Ratha’, ‘Bhima Ratha’, ‘Arjuna Ratha’, ‘Nakula Sahadeva Ratha’, and ‘Draupadi Ratha’ after the five Pandava brothers and their common spouse Draupadi from the epic tale of Mahabharata.

History of the Pancha Rathas

The construction of these five rathas is traced back to the 7th century during the reign of King Mahendra Varman I from 600–630 CE and his son Narasimha Varman I from 630–668 AD of the Pallava dynasty. Before their time, wood was generally the first choice for building temples. The concept of carving the rocks in the shape of chariots or rathas was started during the the reign of King Narasimha Varman I. Work on these structures stopped after his demise in 668 AD. Because of its riches, the Pallava kingdom was an obsession with the Chalukya monarchs. After Narasimha Varman I’s death, a series of Chalukya rulers attacked the kingdom and these structures were gradually forgotten over time.

The reason for linking these rathas to the Pandavas is not very clear. Although there is no connection between the structures and the Pandavas, their names have incessantly remained linked with the structures. In 1984 UNESCO granted the entire area the status of a World Heritage Site which included the monuments on Mahabalipuram hill and the Shore Temple.

The five-ratha group is on a north-south axis with the Dharmaraja Ratha on the south, followed by the Bhima, Arjuna and Draupadi Rathas; the latter two share a common platform. Now let’s go over each structure one by one:

Dharmaraja Ratha

The most imposing and architecturally superior structure is the Dharmaraja Ratha. It is also the highest among the five rathas, revealing that the rock utilized for the purpose of making these temples sloped from south to north. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this elaborately sculptured tri-tala or three-storied vimana stands at the end of the complex, facing west. The name of this structure is attributed to Yudhishthira, the eldest of the Pandava brothers. I will not delve any deeper into the story of the Pandavas here, because I see no connection whatsoever between them and these amazing structures standing in Mahabalipuram.

Sticking to the facts, the temple is a pyramidal structure with a square base, measuring a square of 8.5 m with a height of 11 m. It has an open porch supported by pillars. The temple’s tower consists of a vimana of shrinking squares, capped by an octagonal shikhara. The progressively smaller storeys give the structure the shape of a pyramidal tower. The top of the structure is almost a clone of the Shore Temple, but there is a big difference – the Shore Temple is not a monolithic structure, it was constructed out of blocks of granite.

There are three corner-blocks, each with two panels containing standing figures, between which are two pillars and pilasters supported on squatting lions. The walls have carvings and inscriptions, one mentioning Narasimhavarman I.

The corners of the sanctum contain eight sculptured panels, each representing Harihara, Brahma and Skanda and Shiva. The last image, at the back and facing east, is an Ardhanarishvara – a composite androgynous form of the Hindu God Shiva and his consort Parvati. Ardhanarishvara is depicted as half male and half female, split down the middle. The upper-mid level has carvings of aspects of Shiva and Vishnu, suggesting that the artists revered both Hindu traditions.

A closer look at the pillars reveals some nice detailing near the lions. The Somaskanda panel inside this monument is significant because it dates the temple to the early 7th century. It differs from those created in the Rajasimha period, and resembles those created during the early Pallava era.

Moving on towards the Bhima ratha:

Bhima Ratha

The next temple with a roof, shaped like the hood of a Roman cart-wagon is the Bhima Ratha. You might be wondering how did this design get incorporated into a temple of the 7th century. I can take a guess it was due to the ample trade between the Pallavas and the Romans. The wall panels around Mahabalipuram are another example of Roman influence on the architecture during those times.

Bhima was the next younger sibling of Yudhishthira. He was the muscle of the Pandavas, said to have immense body strength. This structure stands on an elongated rectangular base and is supported lengthwise by four pillars and two pilasters. Its incomplete interior was probably intended to house a reclining Vishnu.

This ek-tala or single stored vimana is the second highest of all the structures here. The north and south sides each have two square, massive pillars. The roof has developed crack lines, possibly caused by structural elements or centuries of weathering.

Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the ornamentation and pavilion are similar to that of the Dharmaraja Ratha but the detailing is lacking. The lower floor of the vimana, although incomplete indicates the plan was to hollow out the rock, creating a pillar-rested circumambulatory passage.

In my opinion, the Bhima Ratha is the most interesting of all the monuments inside the complex.

Arjuna Ratha

The Arjuna Ratha is almost a smaller replica of the Dharmaraja Ratha except for shape of the dome being hexagonal. This dvi-tala or two tiered vimana also facing west was carved out of a live rock with a height of 6 m. It shares the same platform with the Draupadi Ratha and is dedicated to Shiva. This monument looks to have been fully completed. As I mentioned the Arjuna Ratha was earlier known as Nakula Ratha, but later renamed to Arjuna Ratha.

The walls of the ratha are carved into panels with fourteen sculptures. Four are dvarapalas (Vishnu, a rishi with a student, Kartikeya—or Indra—and Shiva with Nandi), and the rest are humans at various stages of life.

The garbhagriha or sanctum sanctorum has a pillared Mukhamandapa or inner porch. The entrance of the Ratha rests on two pillars and two lions carved pilasters. In-between the exquisitely carved pillars lies chiseled figures of several deities like Siva-Vrishabhantika, Skanda on an elephant, Vishnu, a Siddha, Parthiharas, a Chowri bearer and an Amaras. Alternating elephants and lions are carved at the base of this monument all around as supports.

A statue of Shiva’s mount, Nandi the bull, is housed on the rear of the Arjun Ratha.

Nakula-Sahadeva Ratha

This Ratha, dedicated to the celestial king Indra, was named after the twins Nakula and Sahadeva, the youngest of the Pandava brothers. It is the only ratha among the five that faces south. Its front extends slightly forward to form a porch supported by two pillars.

A monolithic sculpture of an elephant also finds place beside the Ratha. All these monuments were constructed on the same base as that of the Dharmaraja Ratha. Although the ratha is devoid of any idol for worship, carved figures of gods and demigods adorn its interior walls. The outer walls of this Ratha have been left blank.

A monolithic elephant sits beside this structure, which I can only guess to be Airavat, the vehicle of Indra.

Draupadi Ratha

Named after the common wife of the Pancha Pandavas, this ratha which lies at the northern end of the five rathas is dedicated to Goddess Durga. Constructed in the form of pre-historic huts from ancient Bengal, it is the smallest of the five rathas with a height of 5.5 m. It is supported by four corner-pilasters and contains two dvarapalikas (female guards) flanking either side of the doorway.

The curvilinear roof is devoid of any sculptures. The corners are decorated with alpana markings. The high-rise platform leading to the entrance door of the west-facing ratha is decorated with sculptures of lion and elephant heads chiselled alternately. The rear part of the Ratha display a lone figure of Durga.

In the cell inside there is another four-armed standing Durga, adored by two male worshipers kneeling at her feet, one of them brandishing his sword.

Best time to visit Mahabalipuram

Best time to visit the Mahabalipuram Rathas is from December to February. Mahabalipuram is unbearably hot for the rest of the year. It is also advisable to come as early as possible. With every passing hour the crowd keeps growing and it becomes almost a carnival by evening. You wont even get any parking space in that crowd.

Although unfinished and never consecrated, these Rathas are part of the monument complex that is marked as ‘Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram’ by UNESCO. After a last glimpse of the Panch rathas, I made my way towards the parking lot.

Maintained under the patronage of the Archaeological Survey of India, this complex has remained one of the popular tourist destinations of south India that became laid the foundation of the temple architecture of South India.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I drive to the Tiger Cave in Mahabalipuram.

The curious case of Krishna’s Butterball

Today I went to explore one of the most mysterious ancient artifacts found in South India. Krishna’s Butterball is a gigantic granite boulder resting on an extremely small and slippery area of a hill in the historical town of Mahabalipuram.

The boulder is approximately 6 meters high and 5 meters wide and should be easily weighing around 250 tons. This precariously balanced boulder is believed to be a bolus of butter the young Krishna would steal as told in mythological stories. The rock continues to defy gravity and has been sitting on this 45-degree slope for 3 billion years or even more.

The quaint town of Mahabalipuram slept as I drove at the break of dawn to explore the mystery behind this spherical rock. Daytime is a huge deal breaker if you want any quiet time anywhere in India. These tourist places are buzzing with selfie-takers.

History behind the Krishna’s Butter Ball

Being an ASI-protected monument, the area is protected. The gate doesn’t open till 6.00 am, so I waited. One of the guards was having a vigorous discussion with someone on the other line of his mobile phone. I could make out he was speaking in Oriya, the language of Orissa Prefecture. The other guard lay under a rock pedestal near the gate. We both waited on either side of the gate in the darkness until the time to tick over.

When they open the gates at 6.00 am, I was really glad that there was no other soul around and I could have my 15 minutes with the curious stone in absolute solace.

The original name of the rock is “Vaan Irai Kal” which translates to “Stone of the Sky God” But just like the historians have been a confused group with regard to naming the ancient monuments in Mahabalipuram, the locals today just refer to this enigmatic giant stone as Krishna’s Butter Ball.

According to Hindu mythology, when Krishna was just a baby, he was fond of stealing butter. He would steal butter from wherever he could, especially the butter that his mother would keep in a pot. He would steal a handful of butter and run away to relish it in the woods. Now someone came up with the thought that this boulder at Mahabalipuram looks very much like a butter dollop and hence, the name was given as Krishna Butter Ball. This rock which looks like a bolus of butter is said to have fallen from the heavens and turned to rock. Religious people tend to have insane levels of creativity 😉

Unfortunately, tripods are not allowed inside ASI-protected monuments. In the dim light, my camera was screaming at 5000 ISO. Fingers crossed…

Some attribute this phenomenon to friction and the center of gravity. Friction prevents the rock from sliding down, conceptually similar to how we are able to stand on sloping ground and the center of gravity allows it to stay balanced on the smallest of the contact area. However, I did try to walk down the slope and it was not possible. I had to slide down to come back to the base of the hill.

So I am inclined to go with the other opinion that when these boulders cooled off about 3.5 billion years ago the connected parts got fused together and that is holding the rock sturdily for all these centuries.

Attempts to move the Krishna Butter Ball

In the cool breeze, I could feel the rough granite brush against my palms. I am never going to die wondering, so I gave the rock a push with all my strength. Nothing…

Several attempts have been made to remove the rock from its original position but have proven futile. One of the local stories going around is when the Pallava king Narasimha Varman I was working on building the lovely monuments on this hillock, he wanted to move this rock which looked like an obstacle amidst the lush greenery. His commanders tried to pull down the ball using horses and elephants but failed to do so.

More recently in 1908 the then Governor of Madras(Chennai), Arthur Lawley decided the boulder to be too dangerous to nearby homes and wanted it removed. Seven elephants were employed to push the rock, but the rock didn’t budge an inch and the task was eventually abandoned.

If you have traveled parts of Karnataka specially Hampi, you will realize that there are hundreds of such precariously places boulders strewn across the Deccan plateau that defy common sense.

I am just going to categorize this as a curious phenomenon that defies the laws of science, in particular physics. People do tend to get attracted to these and so this rock will, in all probability, keep the interest alive for centuries to come.

Other deserving mentions

I have made a small list of a few other boulders that have left me scratching my head.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit the Five Chariot monuments in Mahabalipuram

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