Japan

Hike to Mount Wakakusayama

It was a lovely sunny day. I packed my gear and headed towards Nara Park. I didn’t have anything specific planned, just wanted to go over there and relax among the lovely deer herds.

Once I reached the Deer Park, I bought some senbei for the deer. I was just wandering about when I noticed the alluring green meadows of Mt. Wakakusa, just east of Todai-ji. I find hiking to be one of the most relaxing and rewarding activities. So I set off along the path up the beautiful hill.

Mt. Wakakusayama is also known as Mikasayama or Mount Mikasa. It’s real claim to fame is being set on fire on the fourth Saturday every January during Wakakusayama-yaki, also known as the Grass Burning Festival, to commemorate a historical battle among monks of Todai-ji and Kofuku-ji.

Myths surrounding Wakakusayama

According to local folklore that goes that many centuries ago, sometime during 1760, the monks of two of Nara’s most powerful Buddhist temples, were locked in a conflict regarding their boundaries. The conflict grew into a big fight and Mt. Wakakusayama ended up being torched.

In remembrance of that horrid day, even today a torch is lit with sacred fire at the Kasuga Taisha shrine, and carried by monks in a procession to the foot of Wakakusayama, where the hill is set on fire. It usually burns for around 30 minutes before a show of fireworks lights up the sky.

Contradicting with the above, there is another story that is connected with the keyhole-shaped tomb called Uguisuzuka Kofun on the top of the third hill of Mt. Wakakusa.

In the past, a superstition developed that if you burn the mountain, you can repel the ghosts that return from their tombs. It is said that as a result, people passing through the Wakakusayama started to set the mountain on fire.

These wildfires repeatedly began threatening the precincts of Todai-ji and Kofuku-ji specially, in winter when the grass turns dry. In December 1738, Nara Magistrate’s Office put up a notice board prohibiting people from setting fire to the mountain. However, arson by superstitious people continued to occur. To avoid such dangers, towards the end end of Edo period, Nara city established a rule to allow people to burn the mountain grass in the presence of government representatives, along with those of Todai-ji Temple and Kofuku-ji Temple.

The Yamayaki (mountain burning) festival is also said to be derived from these superstitions to comfort the spirits of the dead at Uguisuzuka Kofun located at the top of mountain.

Hike to Wakakusayama

At the base of Mount Wakakusa, there is an admission booth that accepts ¥‎150 as entrance fee. Please note that there are two entrances to Mt. Wakakusa, the South Gate and North Gate. These gates are located about 300 meters apart.

The mountain slope is very gentle, more like a hill. Mt. Wakakusa consists of three hills and is 342 meters high. It covers a total area of 33 hectares with lush green grasses, specially during summer months.

The trail to the summit are opened only from third Saturday in March to the second Sunday in December.

The grassy slope is just amazing, coupled with the beautiful herds of deer roaming around. There are two routes up the hill, I took the left one. It attracts less tourists because it is steeper. One has to climb some steps before hitting the well maintained forest trail.

Fall was just around the corner and dry leaves crunched underneath my shoes as I hiked up with my camera. A few minutes into the hike, I was surrounded by towering cedars of the Kasugayama Forest. Sudden bursts of wind would blow the dry leaves along the path with a loud howl. As I hiked up the trail, occasionally one of the Shika deer would peek through the trees in the dimly lit forest. They are a lot hesitant than their kin who dwell near the Todai-ji temple, who would literally chase you down for food.

I took my time making my way up the trail, enjoying the relative solace of the forest.

I reached the first summit in about 40 minutes. The grass was green and the wind was gentle. A couple were sitting there with their dog. I greeted them with a subtle, “Konnichiwa!”

It was a beautiful day, but only a handful of tourists had braved the hike. I lay down on the inviting soft grass watching the quite city of Nara from above. The hill overlooking the city, with the gentle cool wind on a sunny day made me forget about everything for a while.

After relaxing for a while on the slopes, I went back on the trail towards the summit. The weather of Nara is such that even if its hot, you will always find a strong breeze blowing across most of the time. It keeps you energized on the hike.

The hike thereafter is relatively a lot easier. The trail is marked by dense Kans grass on both sides.

After a while I reached a small white shack. If you reach the white structure, it means you are almost at the end of the hike. From here a series of steps will take you to the summit.

Time to hike to Wakakusayama

The peak is only about 342 meters but it gets quite windy at the top. Overall excluding the time I spent at the first summit, it took me around and hour to reach the top of Wakakusayama. At the top of the mountain is a nice vantage point to view the quaint city of Nara.

It was not long before a deer came around attracted by the smell of food in my pocket. They are always hungry! I fed it the senbei I had brought along. It didn’t last long, as we were joined by more deer, and suddenly I found myself being chased by them.

As evening drew in, I started my walk down the hill, hoping to come up here again sometime during the evening to catch Nara with its lights.

Thank you for reading. Please leave me a comment or ask away if you need any information on hiking up the lively mountain or follow my story as I visit the Yakushi-ji temple in the suburbs of Nara.

Opening Hours

9:00 – 17:00
Shin-Mt. Wakakusa Driveway timings: 8:00 – 23:00 (- 22:00 in Winter)

Annual Closure

From the Monday following the second Sunday in December to the Friday before the third Saturday in March

Admission Fees

Adults: ¥150

Photo Walk to Kofuku-ji

Kofuku-ji is both a landmark and a symbol of Nara. It used to be the family temple of the Fujiwara, the most powerful family clan during much of the Nara and Heian Periods. The temple originally is said to have contained almost 150 buildings in its premises, but only a few have survived, and most rebuilt over the years.

I had a quick breakfast at the Nara University cafeteria and head off to Kofuku-ji on foot using the narrow lanes. The route I love to go to Kofuku-ji is via the Sanjo-dori. It is the happening street in the area with hundreds of shops selling souvenirs and local delicacies. There is always a buzz along the street and I love to visit it often, just to have a good time.

A brief history of Kofuku-ji

Today Kofuku-ji is one of the head temples of the Hosso sect of Buddhism but it has had a very humble beginning. In the year 669 CE, Kagami no Okimi, the consort of Nakatomi-no-Kamatari, founded a Buddhist temple on their family estate in Yamashina Suehara (modern-day Kyoto) to pray for her husband’s recovery from illness.

Her literary works appear in Manyoshu, the oldest extant collection of Japanese waka (poetry in Classical Japanese), compiled sometime after AD 759 during the Nara period. In “Manyoshu,” her name appears as ‘鏡王女’ while in “Nihonshoki” (Chronicles of Japan) it is ‘鏡姫王.’ Her poems are said to be composed after Kamatari’s death, in the memory of her husband. She is also widely considered to be the birth mother of FUJIWARA no Fuhito, who later went on to be the founding patron of Kofuku-ji.

This temple which came to be known as Yamashina-dera was relocated to its present site shortly after the establishment of Heijo as the capital of the empire. The temple was renamed to Kofuku-ji and it grew rapidly in size under the patronage of successive emperor and empresses. During that time the Fujiwara clan had great influence over the imperial family and their blessings to Kofuku-ji, propelled its rise to an important influence even in political matters. In the Heian period (794-1180), the temple assumed control over the Fujiwara tutelary shrine of Kasuga and rose to become the dominant power in Yamato province.

Over time with the decline of the Fujiwara clan, the temple lost its shine. The temple was destroyed by the Taira, rivals of the Fujiwara, in the 12th century Heike wars. Financial pressures eroded the political influence that it had previously enjoyed. In 1595, during the reign of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the temple was stripped of its last remaining estates and replaced them with an annual endowment of only 21,000 koku of rice. Although this amount was sufficient for the maintenance of the temple grounds, a catastrophic fire in 1717 destroyed most of the temple complexes.

With waning power, Kofuku-ji became one of the primary targets of the anti-Buddhist policies of the early years of the Meiji period (1868-1912). In 1868, the Japanese government brought out an ordinance called shinbutsu bunri, which ordered the separation of Shinto from Buddhism. This brought to an abrupt end the centuries-old tie between Kasuga and Kofuku-ji. After a few years when things calmed down, Kofuku-ji was granted permission to re-establish itself as a religious institution.

As you keep walking along the Sanjo-dori. the road will open up near a pond, that falls on the right. it is the Surosawa pond. On your left, you will find a stone staircase that will take you inside the Kofuku-ji grounds. These stairs always remind me of the end scene from the movie “Your Name.”

As I went up the stone stairs, midway to the top, there is a left path, where you can find a Jizo statue surrounded by idols of little children. I spent some time here with the Jizo. The idol is carved out of a single piece of stone. It reminded me of the stone idols from our Hampi trip. The Sun was soft and I was able to get some nice sharp images.

The Jizo referred to as “O-Jizo-san” in Japanese honorific language, is a deity fondly loved by Japanese people. You will find Jizo statues like this in many places including Buddhist temples, graveyards, beside lakes, and even at the corner of some streets in the cities. If you are interested in exploring more, you should visit the Hase-dera temple in Kamakura which is said to host, on its grounds thousands of Jizo statues.

During colder times, you will find them draped in red. Jizo statues are clothed in red bibs and sometimes also hoods. What is a bit funny for me is that, you might also sometimes find cans of Sake beside the statues. The Japanese mostly pray to the Jizo wishing for protection for their lost baby so their spirits might go to heaven without suffering.

Three Storeyed Pagoda

Just beyond the Jizo statue there lies a three-story pagoda. This Pagoda was originally built in 1143 CE at the behest of Fujiwara no Kiyoko, the consort of Emperor Sutoku. The current pagoda was recreated shortly after the destruction of the entire temple complex in 1811, making it one of the oldest of the structures at Kofukuji.

The first storey contains a set of four murals painted on wooden panels that each depicts a Buddha. In addition, the goddess Benzaiten (Saraswati) is enshrined on the eastern face of the central pillar.

After taking some shots of the pagoda, I retraced my steps back to the staircase. As you reach the top you will find yourself in front of the Nanendo hall or commonly referred to as the Southern Hall. Before you go for the hall, if you check on your right, you will find a Chuyoza, a place to purify yourself before you go to pray at the temple.

It’s not much of a deal, you just take the ladle, fill it with the running water and wash your hands one at a time. In the end, you let the remaining water drip down along the handle of the ladle where you were holding it, in a way cleansing it for the next person to use.

The Southern Hall

The southern octagonal hall was initially built in 813 by Fujiwara no Fuyutsugu, in memory of his father. The current hall is the fourth reconstruction and was erected between 1741 and 1789. Enshrined inside it is a seated image of Fukukensaku Kannon.

The southern hall is opened to the public only one day in the year on October 17th

Some people were praying in front of the Nanen-do hall. The air was smoky with the incense sticks burning on an urn placed in front of the temple. Beside the temple hall, there is a small shop that sells incense sticks for ¥100. You can choose between sticks for praying for either health, happiness, or wealth. The words are written in Japanese only, so you might need someone to assist you if you are not able to understand which one to choose.

A left turn here will take you to the Hokuen-do. It was built in 721 by the Empress Gemmei and Emperor Gensho to commemorate the first death anniversary of Fujiwara Fuhito. The building originally dates back over a thousand years, and their present reconstructions were completed in 1210 respectively. The building also houses some of the temple’s treasured artifacts but is only open to the public only a few days a year. Notably among them is a set of four images of the heavenly kings that were created in 791, the finest examples of Japanese dry-lacquer sculptures.

The building is open to the public only on special days every year. The dates of this period vary every year, so please contact the temple authorities before visiting.

A few steps ahead there is a flat base, where once Kofukuji’s main building, the Central Golden Hall used to stand. It was destroyed in a fire in 1717 and – although a replacement hall was built on a smaller scale in the 1800’s – the original Central Golden Hall was not reconstructed. Reconstruction works are currently ongoing and are scheduled to be completed in the year 2018.

The Central Golden Hall opened in 2018, I have updated the details at the end of the journal.

For me, Kofuku-ji’s main attraction is the five-story pagoda known as Gojunoto. At 50.1 meters, it is the second tallest pagoda in Japan after Kyoto’s Toji Temple. The construction of the Five-storied Pagoda was originally started in 730 by Empress Komyo, the daughter of Kofukuji’s founding patron: Fujiwara no Fuhito.

Over its long history, the pagoda burned down a total of five times, with the latest reconstruction dating to around 1426. Enshrined around its central pillar, on the first story are a Yakushi triad (East), a Shaka triad (South) and an Amida triad (West) and a Miroku triad (North)

Lots of women visiting the temple were in the traditional Kimono. It was a beautiful sight to see them walking past the ancient temple. If you are interested in obtaining a Kimono for rental, there are many places along Sanjo-dori, but you have to book it in advance.

Eastern Golden Hall

Beside the Gojunoto is the Easter Golden Hall. The Eastern Golden Hall (Tokondo) was originally constructed in 726 by Emperor Shomu to speed the recovery of the ailing Empress Gensho. Rebuilt in 1415, the Tokondo hall is dominated by the presence of a large image of Yakushi Nyorai (the Healing Buddha) along with the Bodhisattava Nikko & Gakko. The hall also features seated images of 12th-century wooden Monju Bosatsu and Yuima Koji, surrounded by standing images of Four Heavenly Kings.

National Treasure Hall

The Kofuku-ji National Treasure Hall (Kokuhokan) was erected in 1959 to house images, paintings, ritual artifacts, and historical documents that were enshrined in temple buildings that no longer exist. Among the most notable treasures are an 8th-century statue of Ashura (one of Buddha’s eight protectors) carved in the 8th century, an even older bronze head of Yakushi Nyorai, and 12th-century carved wooden statues of priests with strikingly human facial features.

While entrance to Kofukuji’s temple grounds is free and possible around the clock, there are two areas that require paying an entrance fee: Kofukuji’s National Treasure Museum and the Eastern Golden Hall. The recently renovated National Treasure Museum exhibits part of the temple’s great art collection and is an absolute must-see for lovers of Buddhist art. Among the many outstanding exhibits is the three-faced, six-armed Asura Statue, one of the most celebrated Buddhist statues in all of Japan. Unfortunately for me, it was closed on the day.

Kofuku-ji is a nice place to enjoy the history of Nara. Besides the temple, there are many other things to enjoy in Nara Park. If you are the explorer type, you should also check out Umikodo Pavilion, when looks stunning at night.

Kofuku-ji in Fall

Since I lived nearby, I came to Kofuku-ji many times. This is a shot of the beautiful pagoda during the fall. Nara Park has a brilliant fall and if possible, you should plan a trip at that time. For more information you can check out my journal of Nara during Fall.

Update: Central Golden Hall

The Central Golden Hall was opened to visitors in October 2018. Initially, the hall was constructed between 710 and 714 at the behest of Fujiwara-no-Fuhito. It has had an unfortunate history, with the building burned down a total of 7 times. The most recent of these fires occurred in 1717. With dwindling finances, more than a century passed before a temporary structure was finally erected in 1819.

However, the hall suffered extensive damage due to a leaking roof and had to be demolished in 2000. The newly constructed hall faithfully reproduces the Nara-period original based on archaeological evidence, drawings, and other historical records.

We came back at night to capture the celebration of the opening of this grand hall. At the time of writing this, visitors are not allowed to photograph the inside of the hall.

Later that night, we had a quiet stroll along Surosawa pond. The atmosphere becomes quite calm once the day tourists go back to Kyoto and you can enjoy some quiet time by yourself near the pond. I have spent many evenings here, just sitting and staring at the surroundings. A vending machine nearby will fulfill most of your needs if you are thirsty.

Kofuku-ji is one of the first temples I visited when I came to Japan and it will always have a special place in my memories. If and when you are visiting do not forget to explore Nara Park, it is huge and you will never forget the experience of the deer moving around among humans as you could only imagine in fantasy stories.

Thanks you so much for reading. I hope you have a wonderful time experiencing Nara as I did. Please leave me a comment if you liked my story or if you need to ask anything. I am also available on Instagram if you want to connect. Peace.

Admission Fees to Central Golden hall

Adults: ¥500
School Students: ¥300

Admission Fees to National Treasure Hall

Adults: ¥700
School Students: ¥600

Admission Fees to Eastern Golden Hall

Adults: ¥300
School Students: ¥200

When was Kofuku-ji built?

Kufuku-ji had a very humble beginning and the first structure was built in 669 CE in old Kyoto. It was later moved to Nara and succeeding generations of the Fujiwara clan kept building on it until it became a massive temple grounds comprising of over 140 buildings.

Who built Kofuku-ji

The first structure of the Kofuku-ji temple was commissioned by Kagami no Okimi, the legal wife of FUJIWARA no Kamatari. To pray for the recovery of Kamatari’s illness, she established Yamashina-dera Temple in 669 CE, which later became Kofuku-ji Temple.

Photo Walk in Lodi Gardens

I was in Delhi during this weekend accompanying Mani. She was taking an exam at the Jawaharlal Nehru University (JNU). This was my first visit to the Indian capital and couple of my colleagues who live in Delhi had suggested me that I visit the Lodi Gardens & Haz Khas Village as they were very near to JNU. Both the places have a historical significance and I am always game to see such places that hide so many stories. So for the few hours I had while Mani was taking the exam, I decided to visit the Lodi Gardens for a photo walk.

Reaching Lodi Gardens was easy. I took an auto ride from the JNU to Lodi Gardens. It hardly takes around 20 minutes for the ride. The Lodi Gardens is spread over 90 acres and contains the tombs of two prominent Afghan rulers, Mohammed Shah & Sikander Lodi, who ruled parts of northern India and Punjab between 1451 to 1526. As I entered the garden, I could see the towering Bada Gumbad. It was around 9 a.m and quite a few fitness enthusiasts were still on their rounds.

Bada Gumbad

The Bada Gumbad is characterized by an octagonal chamber, with stone pillars and intricate Arabic inscriptions on the walls. It harbors the the tomb of Mohammed Shah. The structure is characteristic of Islamic architecture with a high dome resting on a square base. The base pillars are constructed of stones very much like the temples of Hampi. The dome shows signs of weathering that has happened over the years, but the lotus on the top is till well-preserved. On the sides are two long corridors. The corridor on the right is more artistically designed with domes and wall carvings.

Sheesh Gumbad

Just opposite of Bada Gumbad is the Sheesh Gumbad. Its as though both face each other. The Sheesh Gumbad also follows the pattern of Bada Gumbad with a double storeyed appearance. One cannot miss the adorned vivid blue tiles towards the top. The use of the glossy blue tiles adds to the grandeur of the structure, outshining even the bigger Bada Gumbad. The ceiling is decorated with plaster depicting floral designs. The inside is pretty dark. There are several unmarked and un-ornamented graves in rows along the rough floor. The walls are unadorned more by bluntly scratched names of stupid people rather than the exquisite plaster that once was the talking point of the tomb. The dome’s concave surface is decorated with floral and Arabic calligraphy patterns.

Another tomb within the gardens is that of Sikander Lodi, which is similar to Mohammed Shah’s tomb, though without the chhatris. It was built by his son Ibrahim Lodi in 1517, the last of Sultan of Delhi from Lodi dynasty. Ibrahim Lodi was defeated by Babar in the first battle of Panipat in 1526, signifying the end of the Lodi dynasty and laying the foundation of the great Mughal Empire. Sikander Lodi was a poet of the Persian language and prepared a diwan of 9000 verses.  The top two storeys of the Qutub Minar were reconstructed in marble by Sikander Lodi. Time passes quickly in such historical surroundings. It was 10:30 already so I had to head back to the University without seeing his tomb.

After picking up Mani, we had a quick lunch in a nearby mall. I was extremely impressed with Lodi Gardens and wanted Mani to have the experience as well. So we went back together.

We sat on the soft green grass beside the Sheesh Gumbad. Towards the late afternoon, as the sun became softer, a number of birds descended upon the area. Parrots, Mynas, Pigeons & Eagles were swooping out of nowhere over the park raising the sound decibels of the quite surroundings. A number of joggers also started to flow in. Some people were walking their dogs. It is heartening to find dogs are allowed in this park. Among all the dogs out for walk, Labradors were clearly a favorite.

We stayed there till sundown. There was a quick passing shower. We took shelter in one of the chajjas inside the Bada Gumbad. Once the rains stopped, we headed back to the airport.

The beautifully landscaped and manicured garden along with the magnificent tombs creates a charming atmosphere. The park provides a quite get away from the noisy life in the middle of Delhi. For those willing to listen, the walls of the tombs, they tell stories most interesting. I loved the time I spent there and I have my wonderful friends to thank for suggesting this lovely place.

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[su_tab title=”Faqs”] [su_accordion]
[su_spoiler title=”Lodi Gardens timings?”] Open on all days. 6 am to 8 p.m[/su_spoiler]
[su_spoiler title=”Is there any entrance fees?”] Enternce to Lodi gardens is free. There are no camera charges either[/su_spoiler]
[su_spoiler title=”How much time does it take to tour Lodi Gardens?”] For a good exploration it will take around 2 hours. If you love greenery, one might forget counting time here [/su_spoiler]
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[su_tab title=”Other places to see near Lodi gardens”]

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  • India Gate
  • Haz Khas
  • Qutub Minar

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 Photo Gallery

A Winters Tale II – Pelling

Travel creates memories that last a lifetime. As we left the outskirts of Gangtok, we were both still immersed in thoughts of the lovely time we spent at Changu Lake. On our drive to Pelling, we planned to take a longer route going through Namchi, which is renowned for its beautiful tea gardens. Our driver, Vishnu, a very charming Nepali chap, made our trip to Pelling even more entertaining. All through the next three days, he kept us entertained with his jolly stories. I am going to leave his phone # below in the faqs, so anyone interested can contact him.

Temi Tea Gardens, Ravangla

We reached Temi Tea Gardens at around 11 a.m. The drive to Temi took us through lush green mountain slopes lined with ferns. The beautifully landscaped and manicured tea garden is a visual treat. The fascinating beauty of the tea plantation along-with with 180-degree views of Mt. Kangchenjunga thrilled us to no end. A plaque mentioned that the tea garden is run by the Government of Sikkim and they have done a fascinating job.

The tea from these gardens carries a premium the world over for its exotic flavor. We each had a cup of tea at the only shop around. Mani bought a couple of flavors including one Oolong flavor. Vishnu volunteered to take a few pictures of the picturesque gardens behind us.

In February, the Namchi Garden hosts an annual flower show. The prime attraction of this show is the display of exotic and rare orchids. After a lovely cup of tea, we drove on to our next destination: Samdruptse.

Padmasambhava, Samdruptse

From Temi, we headed towards Samdruptse hill in Namchi. We drove about an hour along winding roads to reach the Samdruptse hill. In the local Bhutia language, Samdruptse translates into “wish-fulfilling hill.” We got down at the gate and started walking towards the top. A few minutes into the path, we could see the gigantic statue of Guru Padmasambhava in a meditation pose. At 120 ft tall, it is said to be the highest statue of Guru Padmasambhava in the world. The statue has a fleet of stairs from where one can climb upward to a platform near the statue’s lap. There is a brick Chorten on the side. In front of the giant statue is another smaller statue of Padmasambhava in a different avatar. We stayed there for some time looking at the masterpiece against the beautiful blue sky.

There is a small room towards the right. Inside some devotees were lighting butter lamps. A lamp offering carries the wish to attain Buddha-hood and the aspiration to recognize the clear light at the time of death. We joined them in lighting the lamps. We later came to know that for each lamp you light, one has to pay Rs. 10.00. as donation. By that time we had already lit 35 lamps 🙂

We would have loved to spend some more time here but we moved on as we still had a lot of distance to cover for Pelling.

Solophok Chardham Temple Complex, Namchi

Char Dham complex is situated about 5 km from the town of Namchi on Solophok Hill. However one should not assume the time to travel based on the distance in the hills. It took us over an hour to reach the Char Dham complex. From here if one looks hard, one can see the Guru Padmasambhava on Samdruptse hill in the distance. The principal deity at the Char Dham complex is Lord Shiva. It is believed that during the battle of Kurukshetra, Arjuna came here to worship Lord Shiva.

It is also believed that Shiva, pleased with Arjuna, appeared before him in the guise of a hunter and blessed him. The complex contains the 12 Jyotirlingas, four miniature replicas of the Char Dhams and a huge Nandi bull. The sprawling complex also has arrangements for staying over at the Yatri Niwas Guest House. Bags are not allowed inside and I had a hard time convincing the security at the gate that the backpack I was lugging around was just a camera bag.

The complex has high security and one has to leave the bags outside. I had a hard time convincing security that the backpack I was carrying was a camera bag. Eventually, he did allow me in. We walked around the huge complex for some time. The whole complex was so clean, it felt I wasn’t in India anymore. Near the exit, one can find numerous shops selling souvenirs. As we headed back towards the car, we bought some key chains from one of them.

Buddha Park, Ravangla

Buddha Park is a fairly new addition to the tourist places. It was recommended to us by the guide/driver who took us to Changu Lake and we were not disappointed. The Buddha Park hosts a stunningly beautiful statue of Sakyamuni Buddha. This was the third huge statue we had seen that day. The park area is beautifully landscaped with ample walkways and space for visitors to enjoy the serene surroundings. Set in a picturesque location, the park offers an unmatched view of the Khangchendzonga range just behind the towering Buddha statue and the spiritual ambiance of the location adds to the tranquility.

There is a temple below the statue. Unfortunately, cameras are not allowed inside. As I entered,  I felt peace. Right in the center of the room is a life-sized golden idol of Buddha. A flight of circular stairs leads up to the second floor. The walls are covered in paintings depicting moments in Buddha’s life that eventually led him towards attaining true spirituality.

We roamed around the park. Towards the rear of the temple, some sections were still under construction. We didn’t want to leave, but the sun was setting and we still had to cover some 3 hrs drive to Pelling, so off we went reluctantly.

Hotel Elgin, Mt. Pandim

As we neared Pelling, the roads became worse, filled with potholes. Sun sets early in these eastern Hills and by the time we reached Pelling, it was totally dark at around 6 p.m. We went directly to the Hotel Elgin Mount Pandim. It’s on the top of a hill. We were in for a big surprise as we checked in. The Hotel was royalty. The lounge looked like a palatial living room.

A couple of fireplaces kept us warm in the breezy evening. Later I discovered that its previous owners were the royal family of Sikkim and the palace had been converted to a Hotel.

The rooms were luxurious. Beside the bed is a huge window. As I pulled the curtains, we were thrilled to see the magnificent Singalila range bathing in the moonlight. The food at the Hotel was lip-smacking. I can safely rate Hotel Elgin Mount Pandim as one of the more exotic hotels we have stayed in.

Day 2

Pemayangtse Monastery

I woke up early at dawn to watch the Singalila range during sunrise. It was magnificent to watch the orange rays of the sun creeping over the mountains as small pockets of clouds went past. A couple of foreigners were there along with cameras & tripods, catching the memorable view of the mountains. The view of the Kanchenjunga from this Hotel is the best one can get.

The three-hundred-year-old Pemayangtse Monastery is right next to the resort on the hilltop overlooking the Rebdentse ruins. The closeness of the monastery to our hotel was the main reason for staying at Hotel Elgin. One can just walk to the Pemayangtse in 5 minutes while the Rabdanste ruins are at a 10-minute drive.

The second oldest monastery of Sikkim and the headquarters of the Nyingmapa order of Tibetan Buddhism, Pemayangtse Monastery sits atop a ridge high above the Rangit river, surrounded by the brilliant snow-capped Himalayan peaks. The history of the monastery reads that it was founded in the 17th century by Lhatsun Chempo, one of the three lamas of the Yoksum and further expanded by his re-incarnate in the initial years of the 18th century. The monastery draws its name from “padma yang tse” which literally translates into the “sublime perfect lotus.”

A long line of fluttering prayer flags will welcomed us as we went up the hill. The three-storied monastery houses some wonderful paintings and other artwork. It also has a large collection of rare books. Photography is prohibited inside. On the top floor is a huge wooden miniature depiction of monks and monasteries.

Kanchenjunga Waterfall

From the top of Mt. Pandim, we drove down into the pleasant little town of Pelling. On the way to Kanchenjunga waterfall, we passed the Sewaro Rock Garden. I had listed it on our scheduled places to visit in Pelling, but it looked in ruins from lack of maintenance. On the way we also passed a few Orange groves laden with the citrus fruits. Beside one of the groves, few children were selling the freshly plucked fruit on the roadside. They were the tangiest Oranges I have ever tasted.

After an hours drive we finally reached Kanchenjunga waterfall. We had to park the car at a sharp curve some distance away. From there we had to walk up the stairs to reach the waterfall. Some local boys were helping tourists, making their way over some treacherous stones towards the waterfall. The main waterfall is surrounded by the hill on three sides. With so many tourists it was hard to move around. The Waterfall was flowing in full force and we were getting wet just by the thick droplets in the air. My camera lens was getting so foggy and it was impossible to take any pictures.

Kha-Chot-Palri Lake

We drove on towards the Khecheopalri village. Kha–Chot–Palri is estimated to be 3500 years old and means heaven of Guru Padmasambhava. It is believed to be a wish-fulfilling lake. The Lepchas, the main ethnic group of the village refer to is as “Sho Dzo Sho” Lake.

We got down at the main gate. There are some small shops around from where yo can grab some food. From here there is about a fifteen minutes walk through a lovely tropical forest. There is a Chorten along the way. Beside the path, on the rocky walls there are scattered Tibetan inscriptions. As we reached the lake I saw a small shrine where one can offer prayers. According to local folklore, the  leaves are not allowed to float on the lake. The birds in the vicinity, pick them up as soon as they drop on the lake surface. There is a jetty that leads to the front of the lake and from where prayers are offered. Prayer wheels are fixed along the jetty. The jetty was very crowded and we just stayed at the edge of the lake. Prayer flags are everywhere. After spending some time here we headed back to the hotel.

Back at the Hotel, they had some very interesting menu lined up for Lunch. I have already forgotten the names of the dishes, but they sounded very French.

Rabdentse Ruins

After taking some rest, we left the Hotel at around 4 p.m. From the hotel, it barely takes 10 minutes to reach the entrance to Rabdentse. The ruins lie hidden from the main road within a dense foliage of Oak trees. Rabdenste was once the seat of the power in Sikkim for more than a hundred years. Today, the ruins of this ex-capital of Sikkim are just a tourist attraction.

We got down at the ornamental yellow gate and walked along a narrow uphill path towards the once flourishing palace that used to be the abode of Sikkim monarchs. It’s a long walk but there are plaques along the path that kept us telling the distance renaming till the ruins. I assume, we walked around a kilometer to reach the palace ruins. Towards the end of the path, the beautiful forest slowly merges into the palace courtyard.

There was a sign that said we needed to buy tickets to enter, but there was no one at the counter, so we moved ahead. A few paces further, we saw the ‘Taphap Chorten‘ in semi ruined condition. Just beside it is a is a stone plaque with information on the history of Rabdentse. This was the entry point to the Palace and in historical times, visitors seeking access to the palace had to dismount from their horses here. The capital city was destroyed by the invading Gurkha army and only the ruins of the palace and the chortens can be seen here now.

The palace ruins are at the center of the courtyard. Next to the ruins of the palace are three Chortens. The members of the royal family used to offer prayers to the deities at these Chortens. Surprisingly, the chortens still are in a fair state of preservation. The Archaeological Survey of India has declared Rabdentse as a heritage monument and has undertaken the needed preservation and restoration measures.

Day 3

Transfer to Bagdogra

We had an early breakfast and started by 9 a.m. for Bagdogra. Our flight was at 5 p.m. and the Vishnu, the driver had informed us that it will take at-least six hours to reach. He also mentioned that due to construction on the road, there could be minor stoppages along the way too. Pelling to Bagdogra is not a popular route, so when I asked him, he told us that the last time he drove on this road was three years back. True to his sources, we had to stop for half an hour along a stretch where the hill was being cut to make the road wider. Big boulders were falling from above, some large enough to smash a car into a pancake. They stopped for a while. The road was cleared of the boulders by a crane and we were off.

It was a 3 hour rocky journey till we joined the NH31A highway.  The Teesta with its flowing green water kept me wide-eyed all the way. There were numerous times I wanted to stop and admire the bends and curves but we didn’t have the luxury of time. Once we crossed into West Bengal, the roads were a lot better. We saw some monkeys on the sides of the road. The tourists probably feed them and they were dangerously walking on the road where generally cars were traveling at 60-80 km/hr.

On the way we stopped for a break at the City Center Mall near the airport. It’s a huge mall almost similar in design to the City Center 2 in Kolkata. We grabbed some food there and then headed to the airport. On arrival to the airport as we were checking in, we were informed that the flight was delayed by 40 mins. We used that time to check out the airport shops. By 6 p.m., with some pleasant memories, we were on our way back to Kolkata.

What is the best time to visit Pelling?

Pelling is pleasant during December. In mid-December one can see the snow-covered Kanchenjunga mountains. It’s a sight to behold

Which are the important places to see in Pelling?

If you are visiting Pelling, you must also visit Namchi & Ravangla. The Buddha Park in Ravangla is a lovely place with a huge Buddha Statue.
Kanchenjunga WaterFall
Khecheopalri Lake
Orange Gardens

Our driver details

Vishnu was with us for the three days we were in Pelling.
His contact number is +91 9734 181 355
Disclaimer: I loved our travel with him, but I do not accept any responsibility for his actions if you use his services.

Night Trek to Savandurga

Savandurga is an amazing place for a photo-op… but Whoa! the fort of “death” and that too on my first trek!!

History of Savandurga

Located at a distance of 64 km west of Bangalore, Savandurga is reputed to be the highest monolith in Asia. It comprises two looming granite hills, Karigudda, the Black Hill and Biligudda, the White Hill, both around 4000 feet tall. Historically, the hills find a mention in the records of the Hoysala period in the 13th century. In those times it was referred to as Savandi hills. Later during the reign of Hyder Ali, this hill served as a fort prison from where it was said there was no escape but via death. Since then the locals began referring to it as “Mrutyu Kupa” which vaguely translates to “the fort of death.”

The nearest town to Savandurga is Magadi, known for being the birthplace of Kempe Gowda who is kind of looked at as the founder of the city we now call Bangalore. More recently, the hills have been featured in the making of David Lean’s movie A Passage to India.

The Journey to Savandurga

I was going on this night trek to Savandurga along with a trekking group. My pick-up point was at Central Silk Board at 11 p.m. It was my first trek around Bangalore and I was duly very excited. The tempo bus was waiting, filling up as more and more trekkers trickled in. We hit the road by 11:30 p.m. I had been searching for good trekking groups for over a year and this is the first team that impressed me even before I started on the trek. The other trekkies joining us from various parts of bangalore got introduced to each other on the bus during the ride. Most trekkers came in groups – friends from office or were couples. I was the only loner, but I had my camera, that more than made up for it.

I am new to Bangalore but I could vaguely identify the route towards Savandurga, since it goes along the same route as I had taken when I had been to Manchanabele Dam just a few weeks before. Once we left the city behind, the stars were much brighter, a rare sight during monsoon around Bangalore.

Savandurga Forest

Savandurga is surrounded by a thick forest of scrubs, said to harbor around 60 different tree and 119 shrub species. The hills are also home to the endangered Yellow-throated Bulbuls. The road became a bit bumpy as we entered the Savandurga Forest. On the way we passed the Manchanabele Dam. Created by the waters of the Akravathy River, Manchanabele Reservoir itself is a lovely place from where you can get an enticing view of the Savandurga Hill.

We reached the base of the hill near the Narasimhaswamy Temple at around 1 am. Were were going to conquer Biligudda tonight! It is a relatively easier climb compared to Karigudda, which requires permission to climb. We got an energy pack from the organizers comprising a juice tetra-pack, an energy-bar and a pack of biscuits.

Trekking to Savandurga

Within a few minutes our local guide, Anna, came running with his huge torch. He is a local resident and knows his way around the hills. We started the climb at around 1:15 am.

Trekking in Savandurga can be thrilling as well as challenging as I discovered. It’s a smooth monolith and at certain points, very steep. Luckily we didn’t have rains and the trail was dry. I did though make a big mistake being in my Woodland’s. It’s a bad idea to trek in Woodland shoes. They are heavy and not good at getting a grip on the rocky surface. One should always get a rubber sole shoe and preferably one that is light.

We took a break midway through the climb. The clouds were flowing by us and it was time for some ghost stories. During story-telling, Ishan shared with us his experience of when he and his friend landed up in Bhangarh, a ghost village.

Sitting on the cold rock, I could see the lights from the nearest town of Magadi. Suddenly out of nowhere, a thick cloud enveloped us. In the haze, the light from our torches glowed like beams crisscrossing each other. It was an unforgettable experience. We spent a few minutes there and started again.

After some 45 minutes into the trek, we reached a makeshift shed.  There is a small natural pool beside the Mantapa. We took a break here and had a nice and warm bonfire going.

Some of the guys took a quick nap. I was too excited to even think about sleep. I scouted around for places where I could get a good view of the sunrise.

By 5:30 a.m everyone was wide awake and ready to move on for the final climb. We hit dawn at around 6 a.m. The view was ethereal. It appeared we could just jump and snatch away a bit of the clouds.

The sun was hidden behind the heavy clouds so we weren’t able catch a glimpse but at some places the rays would somehow peek through. As light improved it also revealed a small pond near our shack.

Savandurga Peak

There was a little drizzle and my shoes had become very slippery. The second part of the trek to the top of Biligudda was not very tough and we were there in around 30 mins.

We sat there basking in the conquest. At the top of Biligudda is a small shrine dedicated to Nandi, Lord Shiva’s sacred Bull. This shrine/tower was commissioned by  Kempegowda in the 17th Century.

Beside it there is a broken rock structure that is referred to as the Superman Rock. Why? well according to GBL anyone who stands on that rock looks like a superman 🙂

We stayed at the peak for an hour, immersed in the amazing beauty of mother nature. As the Sun started to become harsh and we started the descent at around 8 am. GBL has a “No Littering” policy, so no one is allowed to litter, beyond that they also gave us an option to carry back any plastic garbage left behind by irresponsible trekkers to Bangalore. We collected some 4 big bags of tetra-packs and soft drink bottles. While descending, we took a detour and some of the guys/gals did some rock climbing. I didn’t. Rock climbing is not my thing, so I try to skip as much as I can.

The Descent

While climbing down we passed a fort wall, almost in ruins. It was only now that in the bright light, I was able to see properly the steepness of the hill. At night when we were climbing it didn’t feel so steep. We reached the base in an hour. I was exhausted. At the foothill there is a village by the same name.

From what I hear, Savandurga hills are frequently visited by pilgrims round the year, who come to visit the Narasimha Swamy and  Savandi Veerabhadreshwara Swamy temple situated at the foothills. The Narasimhaswamy Temple was abuzz with people paying respects and praying for happiness.

Just beside the temple, the guys from GBL had arranged for some delicious Tatthe Idli, a local delicacy for breakfast. I loved it and possibly ate a bit too much 🙂 . We had some coffee, took some rest and headed back to the bus. On the way back we stopped for a few minutes at the Big Banyan Tree which is near to 400 years old. Some monkeys came down to check my camera gear and went back annoyed when I didn’t comply 🙂

Thanks for reading! It was my first night trek and it was fabulous.  I do have a sense of achieving something beyond my limits on one of the jewels of the Deccan plateau. The trek is relatively easy and photographers looking for a easy outing amidst mother nature are going to love it.

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