I walked down to Kofukuji today in the evening to catch the huge Pagoda with the moon rising behind it. The five-story structure(Gojunoto) is the second tallest Pagoda in all of Japan. Built in 725 AD by the Empress Komyoh and last rebuilt in 1426, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage listed site.
The walk to Nara walk is generally entertaining.
Street Performance on Sanjo Dori leading to Nara Park
The Adachi gardens feels like part of a painting. Too bad visitors cannot touch or walk among the heavenly garden. The garden is the brain-child of Adachi Zenko who created it in 1980 as a way of combining his passions for Japanese art and garden design.
Journey into Shimane
Shimane countryside
Shimane countryside
Shimane countryside with Mt Daisen in the background
Today we take a walk down to Yasaka-dori in Kyoto to the stunning Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda. Built in 592 CE, the Pagoda with the temple treasure (Yasakato-ezu) is the last remaining structure of the once flourishing temple of Hokan-ji. The rest of the structures have either been destroyed by fires or earthquakes over the years.
Kyoto has many attractions for the wide-eyed tourists. The Kinkaku-ji Temple, the Kiyomizu-dera Temple, and the Fushimi Inari-taisha being my favorites, but if you are photographically inclined, the Yasaka Pagoda is not to be missed. With its old city charm and cobblestone paths, the surroundings of this mystical place takes your breath away, especially during the evenings when the pathways are illuminated in a golden glow from gas-lit street lights.
How to reach Yasaka Pagoda from Kyoto Station
I and my wife, Mani, were coming in from Nara, another heritage city with hundreds of ancient temples and shrines. Nara is around a 40-minute ride on the JR local to Kyoto. If you are coming from outside to tour Kyoto or even staying there, it is best to start from the JR Kyoto Station. You will be able to obtain the current Bus time-tables at the tourist information center inside the station. You can also buy a full-day bus ticket from one of the vending machines that allows you unlimited travel on the public bus for a day. If you are planning to go to more than two sight-seeing points, it is best to obtain the full-day pass. From the station, you can catch either Kyoto City Bus #100 or #206 to reach the pagoda.
Kyoto Station
Yasaka Dori
The bus dropped us off at the Kiyomizu-michi bus stop. Since we were only going to the Yasaka Pagoda, we didn’t go for the full-day bus pass. The one-way ride cost us ¥230 per head.
As soon as you turn your back towards the bus, you will feel transported to a timeless past. This is the Higashiyama District and the Yasaka pagoda lies in the heart of this district. From the bus stop, it is about a 5-minute walk to the pagoda.
Mani walking to Yasaka Pagoda
Old town charm of the Higashiyama District
Of the mountains surrounding Kyoto, the ones which are closest to the present downtown area lie towards the east. This is why this whole eastern region of Kyoto is called Higashiyama which literally translates to eastern mountains. Since ancient times this area has been rich in Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.
The Higashiyama District along the lower slopes of Kyoto’s eastern mountains is one of the city’s best-preserved historic districts. From ancient times, the mist-shrouded slopes of Higashiyama and the hills bordering Kyoto on the east, have inspired generations of poets and artists.
These 36 peaks are home to many temples, restaurants, inns, and tea shops – all picturesquely located along narrow winding streets. The shops that line these streets are always crowded, but it is not like the crowds in India. It is a much relaxed and silent gathering.
Visitors can enter the pagoda up to the 2nd floor for a price of ¥400.
Tourists at Yasaka Pagoda
Yasaka Dori (八坂通り) is a lovely, quiet path through the back streets leading to Yasaka Pagoda. It is an amazing place to walk around and explore the traditional old houses. Rickshaw drivers can be seen ferrying the wide-eyed tourists along this path. The area’s narrow alleys and machiya (traditional wooden buildings) are filled with small shops, cafes, and restaurants. The street runs between Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka slopes, and ends at the most iconic photo spot with the Yasaka pagoda looming over the cobbled path.
The walk presents lovely views of the Yasaka-no-tō tiered pagoda above traditional gabled roofs. It’s old Kyoto and it’s beautiful.
Long before the actual founding of Heiankyō, the capital of peace and tranquility, a tribe called Yasaka no Miyatsuko had immigrated from the Korean empire of Kōrai and settled at these foothills. Hokan-ji was most likely founded as early as 588 by this immigrant family from Koguryo, modern Korea. The Yasaka-no-Miyatsuko settled in the foothills of Higashiyama during the Asuka period & established the temple as their religious center.
Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda is also known as Hokanji Temple. It was built in 592, which makes it the oldest pagoda in Kyoto.
Their religious life centered around the Hōkan-ji Temple, a Buddhist temple built around 589. The temple itself has been long lost to fire. Of the precinct, only the pagoda is left standing today and is the most important vertical marker within the district today.
Yasaka Pagoda
July is also the month of festivals in Japan. Saki Matsuri, the early festivities of the Gion Festival begins on July 10th and peaks on the 17th. We were just a day early but as we waited for the Sun to set over the lovely pagoda, troops of children in white attire rode down the cobbled street in makeshift carts. With them followed a horde of tourists flashing away their cameras.
Think of the saki matsuri as a way for downtown Kyotoites to welcome the deities to their town in a similar way as we Bengalis, welcome the goddess Durga into our city of Kolkata.
Saki Matsuri
Yasaka Pagoda
Once the evening started to set and the shops began to close, the huddle of tourists disappeared from the area and the streets were empty again. In the rare silence, I set up my tripod and quickly captured the most iconic landmark of Kyoto in the beautiful surrounding blue light.
Yasaka Pagoda at Evening
Kyoto has four five-storied pagodas, which are located in temples around the city: Hokan-ji, Daigo-ji, To-ji, and Ninna-ji. Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda, also known as Hokanji Temple is the tallest among them and was built in 592, which also makes it the oldest pagoda in Kyoto.
Origins of Yasaka Pagoda
There are various theories about the origins of the Hokanji Temple, but it is generally believed to have been founded in the Asuka period (593–710) as the guardian temple of the Yasaka clan. Although details from the early history of the Yasaka Pagoda are scarce, there is information about the fires. In 1179, the Pagoda was burned in a dispute between the Yasaka Shrine and the Kiyomizu-dera Temple. The temple was rebuilt by Shogun Minamoto Yorimoto in 1191. Later the records show that the temple again burned down in 1291 and 1436.
The current 49-meter tall five-tier pagoda is a reconstruction built in 1440 by Ashikaga Yoshinori and is a nationally designated Important Cultural Property. The construction and design of the pagoda were never altered, despite being rebuilt several times after different blazes.
The Yasaka Pagoda is dedicated to the five great Nyorai, who are depicted in sculptures and murals inside the pagoda. The epithet Temple Hikan-ji reveals in its suffix that it was not the main temple but rather a secondary one. At the base of the pagoda are four finely carved Buddha statues arranged around the points of a compass. Visitors can go inside the pagoda to view a dais on which are placed figures of Mahavairocana, Akshobhya, Ratnasambhava, Amitabha, and amoghasiddhi – the Five Perfected Ones; as well as the interior structure of the pagoda and the great central pillar supporting it.
The Yasaka Pagoda is said to contain some of Buddha’s ashes beneath its massive central pillar.
As it got darker, the yellow lamps from the street took over. The evening tourists had disappeared from the streets and the dim light from the street lights bathed the closed wooden storefronts. I felt as though I had stumbled upon a sleeping 18th-century town when life was a lot simpler.
Did you know that to make this view perfect, all the electric and telephone lines were moved underground?
The rather narrow street west of the pagoda runs straight north to the southern entrance of the Gion Shrine, renamed Yasaka Shrine in 1868, the first year of Meiji.
Yasaka Pagoda at Evening
Around the pagoda, there are gently sloping hill east towards the mountains. The cobbled street here is known as the Sannen-zaka, the “Three Year Slope”. To the north is the Ninen-zaka, or “Two Year Slope”. Both streets were paved with stones in about 808.
Empty Streets towards Yasaka Pagoda
Illuminated Yasaka Pagoda
The Higashiyama area doesn’t have a lot of tall buildings, so the pagoda is a landmark in the Higashiyama area. The pagoda is surrounded by traditional Japanese-style houses so if you go there, you can feel the history of this area. It was dark, I took one last shot of us to keep as memorabilia, and then we made our way back to the Kiyomizu-michi bus stop.
Viki & Mani at Yasaka Pagoda
After a small wait at the bus stop, we were able to catch a bus back to Kyoto Station.
Note: The bus back from here is always full and the less weight you carry, the better it is for you.
Kyoto Station at Night
Over the centuries, millions of pilgrims have passed along these streets, stopping to buy a charm, sip a cup of green tea or purchase a Kyoyaki (Japanese pottery traditionally from Kyoto). This is a great place to experience the traditional Kyoto, where the narrow lanes, wooden buildings, and traditional merchant shops invoke a feeling of the old capital city.
If you are visiting the pagoda, only a short walk away, on the border of the historic Gion district, lies the ornate red-and-white gate of the Yasaka Shrine. Open 24 hours a day, the shrine is one of the most popular shrines in Kyoto.
Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked my story or follow my travels as I go on a day tour of Shimane to explore the perfectly manicured gardens of Adachi.
When was Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda built?
592 CE
What are the entry timings of Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda?
10:00 am to 4:00 pm
What is the entry ticket price for Yasaka-no-tō Pagoda?
¥400. Children under 12 not allowed in the pagoda.
This is the second part of my day tour of Kamakura. I spent the early part of the day basking in the glory of the great Kamakura Daibutsu. That concluded my bucket-list of visiting all the three most-revered Buddha Temples in Japan. The first one obviously being the Great Buddha of Todai-ji and the other – the Takaoka Daibutsu.
For those who didn’t read the first part of my story, I traveled for more than 4 hours today, all the way from Nara in Kansai, on the train, to visit the Kamakura Daibutsu and then, if time permitted spend some time at the Kamakura Hase-dera.
Once I had my fill of capturing photos of the monumental bronze statue of Kamakura Buddha at the peaceful Kōtoku-in, I made my way down to the lovely garden of Kamakura Hase-dera.
About Kamakura Hase-dera
Hase-dera, commonly known as the Hase-kannon (長谷観音) is one of the popular Buddhist temples in the city of Kamakura in Kanagawa Prefecture. It is located in southwestern Kamakura, nestled seamlessly within the hills of the valley. Its official name is Kaikozan Jishoin Hasedera, but people generally refer to it as just Hase-dera. Halfway up the Kamakura mountain, its main hall houses one of the world’s largest wooden statue of Kannon, the real reason for my interest.
Before I delve deeper into the history of Hase-dera, I must clarify that there are two Hase-dera temples by the same name. The one famous for its Ajisai gardens lies in Nara in the Kansai region. To be clear, I will refer to the temple in Kamakura as Kamakura Hase-dera.
Kamakura Hase-dera is also famous for its “Ajisai” or hydrangeas that blossom every May and June during Japan’s monsoon season. During these times queues to enter the temple grounds often swell with wait times of up to two hours. The temple originally belonged to the Tendai sect of Buddhism, but eventually became an independent temple of the Jōdo shū. Local folklore suggests the inception of the temple in the Tenpyō era (729-749 C.E.). However, documents at the temple suggest that the temple really came into its own during the Kamakura period (1192-1333).
Sammon Gate at Kamakura Hase-dera
Kamakura Hase-dera is not far from the Kōtoku-in and it didn’t take me long to reach the temple gate, also known as the Sammon Gate. The entrance fee is ¥300 per head for adults. The temple has a simple exterior with a symbolic large red lantern hanging from the age-old gate.
Sammon Gate of Hasedera Temple
Kamakura Hase-dera Temple grounds
Once inside the temple, I was greeted by a relaxing landscape of vibrant greens, with the tranquil sound of the water flowing in the ponds. Summer flowers were in bloom. They add a nice touch to the heritage site. An array of circular paths surround the ponds at the base and lead up to the stone stairs, which take you up the mountain.
Flowers blooming on the Hasedera Temple Grounds
The Hase-dera temple complex is a large area. Built into the Kamakura mountain there are several buildings to check out. I am posting the local official map below for assistance.
Hasedera Temple Map
I was a bit short on time so I didn’t visit all of them but I did get the pictures of most. Kamakura Hase-dera is most popular for its wooden Kannon statue measuring 9.18 meters tall. So I started to make my way up the stairs towards the main hall.
Along the path I found this very cute ensemble of three Jizo statues. The charming statue is sure to warm your heart. The idols reminded me of a tiny stone-carved Jizo, I found about a year back while ony wanderings around Arashiyama.
According to religious beliefs, Jizo is a Buddhist deity believed to protect unborn children and give prosperity to one’s descendants. This statue in particular is known as Ryo-en Jizo (Jizo of good match). For the photographically inclined enthusiast, it is one of the most photographed spot on the temple grounds.
Jizo Statues at Hasedera Temple grounds
This route also features a beautifully carved rock lantern, quite similar to the ones in Nara, which are lit during the time of festivals in Summer.
A rock lantern at the Hasedera Temple Grounds
Jizō-Do at Kamakura Hase-dera
My first stop was at the Jizo-do Hall. It lies midway, up the stairs, on the way to the main hall. This sacred area is dedicated to Jizo, the patron protector of children.
Re-incarnation is a central tenet of Buddhism, and parents who endure miscarriages, still-births, or abortions often donate a statue in the likeness of Jizo to ensure a safe passage to the next life for their unborn child.
Jizo-do Hall at Hasedera
Also known as Kshitigarbha in the ancient Sanskrit language, the Jizo is represented in the guise of a Buddhist monk, devoid of the crown and jewels were customarily worn by bodhisattvas.
Small Jizo Scupltures at Hasedera
The word Jizō is literally translated to as “Womb of the Earth”, for JI 地 means earth, while ZŌ 蔵 means womb. Jizō is one of Amida Buddha’s main attendants and, like Kannon, is one of the most popular modern deities in Japan’s Amida Pure Land (Jōdo 浄土) sects.
Gold plated Jizo inside Jizo-do Hall at Hase-dera
Just outside the Jizo Hall, you can see countless jizo statues carved in stone. It is estimated that over 50,000 Jizo statues have been donated to Hase-dera since the end of World War II. Most of these statues only remain in the temple for about a year, before being removed to make way for newer statues.
Temple of a 1001 Jizo
I went up close to catch the details of the stone carvings. Near the hall, you can also find the Mizukake Jizo (water-pouring Jizo). It is believed that one can purify one’s mind by gently pouring water over the statue.
Stone sculptures of Jizo at Hasedera
Continuing up the stairs, I reached the Shoro Belfry. According to local tradition, this giant bell is rung 108 times on new years eve to dispel the 108 sufferings of humanity according to Buddhism.
Next to the belfry you will find the Kannon-do and Amida-do halls. The bigger of these halls – the Kannon-do houses the wooden statue of Kannon, said to be one of the largest wooden structures in the world. But first I stopped to check out the Amida Hall.
Amida-do Hall at Kamakura Hase-dera
The Amida Hall lies right next to the Kannon Hall, The hall houses a 2.8 meter tall golden statue of the Amida Buddha. Amida or Amitābha as it is known in Sanskrit, is a celestial Buddha according to the scriptures of Mahayana Buddhism. It is the principal Buddha in Pure Land Buddhism.
Amida Hall at Hasedera
According to historical records, this sacred depiction of the Buddha was commissioned by the first shogun of Japan, Minamoto no Yoritomo, in 1194.
Golden Buddha inside Amida Hall at Hasedera
Kannon Statue at Kamakura Hase-dera
After paying my respects at the Amida-do, I was finally at my destination. I removed my shoes and went inside. The gate leads into a dimly-lit large hall. Photography is not allowed inside the main hall. A sublime smell of incense sticks surrounds the hall.
Inside the hall there was pin-drop silence, one cannot even hear the chirping of the birds. I found myself standing in front of the revered Kannon statue. The idol itself is made from camphor wood and gilded in gold. It has 11 heads, each of which represents a different phase in the search for enlightenment.
The Hase-dera Kannon statue has an interesting mythology surrounding its origin. Known by the name of Avalokiteśvara in ancient sanskrit, Kannon is the bodhisattva associated with compassion and mercy. The main statue of Kannon is one of the largest wooden statues in Japan.
Kannon-do Hall at Hasedera
According to legend, this statue is one of two statues of Kannon that were carved together by a monk named Tokudo Shonin in 721 CE.
The pious monk discovered a mammoth camphor tree in the mountain forests near the village of Hase in the Nara region. The camphor tree was so large, that he decided that he could have two statues carved from it. The one he commissioned to be carved from the lower part of the truck was enshrined in Hase-dera Temple near Nara, which was part of the then Yamato Province. He didn’t know what to do with the other. So he set it adrift in the sea, for it to find the place with which it had a karmic connection.
According to local folklore, some fifteen years later on a stormy night in 736 CE, the statue washed ashore at Nagai Beach on the Miura Peninsula not far from Kamakura.
It is said, that year Kamakura was ravaged by a terrible storm. Winds hissed with fury and dark waves reared their angry crests, some as high as mountains surrounding Kamakura itself. When the tempest was at its height, the figure of the goddess was discovered floating upon the billows. The statue was immediately brought to Kamakura where a temple was built to honor it.
Kannon-do Hall at Hasedera
Next to the Kannon-do there is also a small museum dedicated to Kannon. The museum exhibits materials related to the ‘Goddess of Mercy’ as well as some other Buddhist artifacts of note.
Right in front of the Museum, beneath the branches of a venerable tree, sits a stone figure of extreme antiquity, depicting Buddha in the Dharmachakra Mudra. Carved in stone and set up on a hexagonal base, it sits among the lush green garden surrounded by 4 bronze statues of Devas (Heavenly) Kings.
Buddha carved in stone at Hasedera
Let’s take a closer look at the stone Buddha’s posture – the Dharmachakra Mudra. Dharmachakra, in Sanskrit, means the wheel of Dharma. The Dharmachakra mudra represents the setting into motion of the wheel of the teaching of the Dharma. As the gesture is performed with the hands held in front of the left side of the chest, or in front of the heart, the Dharmachakra mudra also represents the teachings are straight from the Buddha’s heart.
Buddha carved in stone at Hasedera
Also known as the Chaturmaharaja, the four heavenly kings are the protectors of the world and fighters of evil, each being able to command a legion of supernatural creatures to protect the Dharma.
Bronze sculptures at Hasedera
Viewpoint
After taking a bunch of photos, I took a break at one of the tables near the Observation deck near the Kannon Hall. The temple sits about half-way up Mount Kamakura and the observation deck commands an impressive view over the Sagami Bay and the Kamakura valley.
View from the top of the Hasedera Temple
After the long hike, if you’ve managed to work up an appetite, there is a full-service restaurant called “Kaio-kan” nearby. After an energizing break, I was ready to visit the cave at the base of the temple.
As I mentioned at the start, the temple is built on two levels and includes a cave on the northern side of the mountain. The cave, called Benten kutsu, consists of small winding tunnels with a low ceiling, connecting rooms with various statues of Benzaiten. The Benzaiten is a sea goddess and the only female of the Seven Gods in Japanese mythology.
I walked down the same set of stairs and turned towards the left at the base. Before you hit the cave, you find the Daikoku-do Hall. The original statue of Daikokuten, which was carved in 1412, is the oldest of its type in Kanagawa Prefecture (exhibited only on special occasions). The current enshrined Daikokuten is believed to give success in life and business.
Benten-do Hall at Kamakura Hase-dera
Fukutoku-benzaiten, known as the Goddess of music and wisdom is enshrined inside this hall. It is believed to dispel misfortunes and to give answers to prayers for developing technical skills. The Shonan area of Kamakura and Enoshima have a special relationship with the goddess and there are a lot of sites bearing her name.
Records suggest that Kobo Daishi carved this statue with his bare hands when he stayed on the temple grounds in the Heian era(794-1185).
Fukutoku Benzaiten inside the Ben-ten Hall in Hasedera
Benten-kutsu Cave at Kamakura Hase-dera
Hase-dera’s intense dedication to the goddess can be found carved into the mountain.
Entrance to the Benten Kutsu Cave in Hasedera
After passing through the Torii gates that mark the entry to the caves, I found myself in a bit of an eerie surrounding. According to legend, these caves were carved by the founders of the Hase-dera many centuries ago, but I couldn’t find anything corroborating on the Wiki pages.
Kannon carved into the walls of the Benten Kutsu cave in Hasedera
This is believed to be the place where Kobo Daishi, the Japanese Buddhist saint practiced in seclusion. Benzaiten and her followers of the Sixteen Children are chiseled out of the rock walls in one of the chambers inside the cave.
Kannon carved into the walls of the Benten Kutsu cave in Hasedera
Each of the statues is linked via tunnels inside the Benten-kutsu cave. It’s a mysterious feeling, with dimly lit bulbs. At times with no one nearby, I cannot deny that I felt a little creeped-out.
Tunnels inside Benten Kutsu Cave in Hasedera
Be warned however, especially for the tall visitors out there, the ceiling can get REALLY low at points and you might have to drop to your hands and knees if you’re not flexible.
It would take about half an hour at leisurely pace to fully explore the caves. As I came outside I found another cute jizo. As with most Buddhist temples, the grounds close around 5:00 PM.
Jizo Statue at Hasedera
In all, it was an inspirational day in Kamakura. I still had a 4-hour journey ahead of me – going back to Nara. Do note that this temple is also popular for its Ajisai, that bloom in the monsoon months. I was lucky to experience the Ajisai bloom in Nara Hase-dera.
It was a peaceful ride back home, staring at the lush green landscape of rural Kanagawa. I spent the time mostly listening to music and going over the pictures I took on the day.
Lush Paddy fields along the way to Kanagawa
In my opinion, a day tour is enough to explore both Kamakura Daibutsu & the Hasedera temple. Both are extremely exciting heritage sites with a plethora of mythical stories associated with them.
Thanks for reading. I look forward to your reviews and questions. If you are looking to explore more of the Kansai region, follow my story as I capture the iconic Yasaka-no-tou Pagoda during one of the lovely evenings in Kyoto.
When was Hase-dera temple built?
736 C.E
Who built Hase-dera?
Tokudō Shōnin
How to reach Hase-dera Temple
10-min walk from Hase Station on the Enoshima Dentetsu Line
Opening Hours / Holidays
March – September 08:00 – 17:30 (last entry at 17:00)
October – February 08:00 – 17:00 (last entry at 16:30)
Today I went to visit the Great Buddha of Kamakura. It is a monumental outdoor bronze statue of Amitabha Buddha at the Kōtoku-in Temple in Kamakura of Kanagawa Prefecture. According to temple records, the statue dates from around 1252 CE, in the Kamakura period. It is now designated as a National Treasure of Japan.
My JR Pass was still active. The train pass has been incredibly helpful for travelling to faraway places in Japan without incurring much expenses. I stay in Nara, which is almost 500 km away from Kamakura – but armed with my JR Pass – not too far away!
The ride from Nara to Kamakura
The weather had been gentle in the last week. Rains had kept away for most of the time but there was a strong haze around, hiding away any chance of blue skies. I left my dorm at about 8 am -ish and walked all the way to JR Nara Station. From Nara I took the local Nara line to Kyoto. From Kyoto, I boarded the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to Shin-Yokohama Station.
From the Shin-Yokohama Station, I had to take the local to Yokohama Station, which is about 4 stops and then to Kamakura Station. I had been in the area before, so even though I had to change a few trains, I didn’t face any problems on the way.
From Kamakura Station, I caught the Enoden train (a shortened form of the actual Japanese name “Enoshima Dentetsu”) that connects Kamakura to Enoshima. The train looks more like a tram or a street car. You can buy tickets for the train at the ticket vending machine.
The Enoshima Dentetsu Train to Hase Station
I have a thing for trains and it was incredibly nostalgic boarding one of the older train models during this visit to Kamakura. It was a Thursday and yet the train was fully occupied. I wonder what happens on weekends.
I got down at Hase Station(pronounced Ha-say) , which is located closest to the Kamakura Daibutsu and Hase-dera. Overall, it took me about 4 hrs to finally reach my destination. Hase is the most popular station on the Enoden line, and also the busiest. At any day of the week, you will find a number large tour groups, making their way to the heritage temple.
Please note that the Enoshima Dentetsu line is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass.
If you do take this ride, then you can purchase the one day pass which costs about ¥600. If you are only planning to go and come back, the single ride tickets costs ¥190 each way.
Kōtoku-in
Although people generally refer to it as Kamakura Buddha, the temple that houses the age-old statue is known as Kōtoku-in. It is a Buddhist temple of the Jōdo-shū sect. The temple is not very far away from the Hase Station. Buses are available from the Hase Station, but I generally prefer to walk over small distances.
Nio-mon Gate of Kotoku-in
After a quick walk for about 10 minutes I found myself at the Niomon gate of Kōtoku-in. The temple gate holds a plaque inscribed with Kōtoku-in ’s official name “Daii-san.” Originally, the gate was not constructed here. It was moved together with the pair of Nio statues, enshrined inside the gate, from another location. After the damages from the 1498 earthquake, it was reconstructed in the beginning of the 18th century.
The Niomon gate holds a plaque inscribed with Kotoku-in's official name - Daii-san
The Niomon Gate has two Nio guardians guarding the temple. If you like to read in-depth on Nio Guardians, please read my research on the aggressive looking temple guardians.
Agyo Nio Guardian inside the Niomon Gate of Kotoku-in
A few steps inside you can find the ticket office. The admission tickets cost ¥600 per person.
“Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages – This is the Temple of Buddha and the gate of the eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence.“
A notice at the entrance to the grounds reads …
The first structure that you encounter as you enter the temple premises is the Chōzuya.
A chōzuya for the visitors to wash and purify themselves before approaching a Shinto shrine
A chōzuya is a Shinto water-filled stone basin for the ceremonial purification rite known as temizu. Wooden dippers are usually available to worshipers for washing their hands, mouth and finally the handle of the water ladle to purify themselves before approaching the main Shinto shrine. This symbolic purification is normal before worship and all shrines have this facility. After washing my hands, I went forth towards the monumental statue.
History of Kamakura Daibutsu
The Great Buddha of Kamakura (Daibutsu in Japanese) is a monumental outdoor bronze statue of Amida Buddha. Seated serenely in the grounds of Kōtoku-in, a Buddhist temple of the Pure Land sect, the Great Buddha is one of the iconic images of Japan.
With a height of 13.35 meters, it is the third largest seated Buddha statue in Japan. Showa Daibutsu in Aomori is the tallest at 21.35 meters. The most popular Great Buddha at Todai-ji in Nara comes second at a height of 14.98 meters.
How Kamakura Buddha came into being?
The current Bronze statue was preceded by a giant wooden Buddha. That wooden statue was damaged by a storm in 1248, along with the hall containing.
The Kamakura period (1185–1333) is a period of Japanese history that marks the governance by the Kamakura shogunate, officially established in 1192. When the Great Buddha Statue of Todaiji in Nara Prefecture was reconstructed in 1195, Yoritomo Minamoto, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate, participated the inauguration together with his wife Masako.
Seeing the colossal statue, he felt an obsession to build a matching one in Kamakura to demonstrate his power. But his wish never came true as he died four years later in 1199.
Bronze statue of Amitābha Buddha at the Kōtoku-in Temple
Yoritomo’s court lady named Inada (Inada-no-Tsubone) , however, tried to materialize Yoritomo’s wish. She obtained an approval from Masako to go ahead with the project and asked Priest Joko, to travel across the country in search of donations.
According to chronicles of the Kamakura shogunate, work on building the Great Buddha at Kōtoku-in began in 1238. Lady Inada (Inada-no-Tsubone) and the Buddhist priest Jōkō of Tōtōmi,deserve special mention as it was due to their special efforts in raising the funds that the construction of the statue was made possible. The wooden statue was finally completed in 1243 CE.
It was a time when Kamakura was the capital of Japan and the commencement of the statue in brought much joy to the shogunate. The military rulers of Japan embraced Buddhism and established many temples around their new capital to provide spiritual sustenance for the elite and the samurai warriors who served them.
The Kamakura period rearranged the landscape and gave birth to Buddhism for the commoner. It is this period that we see the spread of Buddhism among the illiterate commoner and a new spirit of realism in religious imagery. The period gave birth to new and reformed Buddhist movements — Pure Land, Zen, and Nichiren — devoted to the salvation of the common people.
Unfortunately, it was completely wrecked by a violent storm in 1247. Priest Joko put forward the idea of the stutue to be recreated in bronze. Five years later in 1252, thanks again to the fund-raising campaign by Lady Inada and Priest Joko, construction of a new statue, not a wooden but bronze one this time, began with caster Hisatomo Tanji and Goro-emon Ono.
It took them more than a dozen years to finish up. The Great Buddha Statue we see today in the Temple is the one made at that time, though the exactly time of completion remains obscure. Distinct from the statue in Todaiji is that the Statue here was built totally with the funds donated by the devotees and well-wishers, with no government or official aid whatsoever.
Close-up shot of the face & neck of Kamakura Buddha which was repaired recently
The bronze Buddha was originally covered in gold and housed in the Great Buddha Hall, or Daibutsuden, but the structure was damaged by typhoons in 1334. It was rebuilt only to be completely damaged yet again by another storm in 1369. The last building housing the statue was washed away in the tsunami of September 20, 1498 resulting from the Meiō Nankaidō earthquake, during the Muromachi period.
The newly constructed building was severely damaged once more. But, the Statue was all right. Back at the time, the government was no longer in Kamakura but in Kyoto under the Ashikaga Shogunate and they didn’t provide any funding for re-building the hall. Since then, the Great Buddha has remained seated in open air.
Exploring the Kamakura Daibutsu
The Amida Buddha sits in the dhyana mudra. Dhyana mudra involves using a gesture where the hands are placed on the lap, the right hand on top of the left one, palms facing upward. In Buddhism, this mudra is dispalyed with the tips of the thumbs touching. This shape of a triangle represents the three jewels of Buddhism: Buddha, sangha (community) and dharma (teachings).
To commemorate Lady Inada’s contribution, there is a cenotaph dedicated to her, standing in the courtyard.
Bronze statue of Amitābha Buddha sitting in the Dhyana Mudra at the Kōtoku-in
The statue is hollow, and visitors can view the interiors. You can take a short walk through the opening to the right of the Buddha and walk up a set of stairs to check out the dimly lit hollowed feet and chest area.
The inside is a tight space and only a few people can cram inside to explore the tiny room, but it is full of extra tidbits on the construction and maintenance of the otherworldly structure. From inside, you can see the giant plates of bronze layered underneath using a technique called ikarakuri. Some visitors have also left graffiti on the inside of the statue.
The Great Buddha is seated in the lotus position with his hands forming the Dhyani Mudra, the gesture of meditation. With a serene expression and a beautiful backdrop of wooded hills, the Daibutsu is a truly spectacular sight.
Bronze statue of Amitābha Buddha at the Kōtoku-in Temple
Behind the Great Buddha sit four bronze lotus petals. These were cast in the mid-Edo period (1603–1867) with the intention of creating a lotus pedestal for the Great Buddha. Though the original plan was to cast 32 petals, only four were actually completed. The donator’s name are inscribed on the front of each petal.
The most recent restoration work was undertaken early this year.
Warazori (traditional Japanese straw sandals)
On the inside wall of corridor to the right facing the Great Buddha rest a pair of huge warazori weighing about 45 kilograms each – a gift from the Matsuzaka Children’s Club of Hitachi-Ota City in Ibaraki Prefecture. The warazori were first woven and donated by the children in 1951, at a time when Japan was still recovering from the ravages of World War II. The warazori were created with the wish that “the Great Buddha would don them to walk around Japan, bringing happiness to the people.”
The Matsuzaka Children’s Club have kept this tradition alive to this day: since 1956, they have continued to make these giant warazori and present them to Kōtoku-in once every three years.
A pair of Warazori sandals donated by the Matsuzaka Children’s Club of Hitachi-Ota City in Ibaraki Prefecture
In the mid-19th century, artist Ando Hiroshige (1797–1858), who produced some of Japan’s most famous woodblock printed landscapes, paid homage to the image with a print, naming it after one of the later temple halls of the Kōtoku-in, the Shojosen-ji. Later in the century, British writer Rudyard Kipling visited Japan and was so awed by the sculpture that he penned a poem dedicated to the Buddha at Kamakura.
While walking back I caught this final image of the bronze statue that brings in millions of believers each year.
Kamakura Buddha amidst the lush green hills surrounding Kōtoku-in
Overall, it is a nice place to visit if you are looking to spend some time among old heritage structures. I would recommend that you visit the temple on weekdays. Weekends are extremely crowded.
Back-side of the Niomon Gate at Kotoku-in
Thanks for reading. I look forward to your reviews and questions. If you are looking to explore more of the Kanto region, follow my story as I visit the Hase-dera Temple in Kamakura .
*updated June 1, 2020
When was the Great Buddha of Kamakura created?
1252 CE
What is the total height of Great Buddha of Kamakura?
The bronze statue measures 13.35 metres or 43.8 ft tall.
Where is the biggest Buddha in Japan?
The Great Buddha of Kamakura is the third largest seated Buddha in all of Japan. Showa Daibutsu in Aomori is the tallest at 21.35 meters. The most popular Great Buddha at Todai-ji in Nara comes second at a height of 14.98 meters.
What is the admission fees for temple visit?
300 Yen
What are the temple visiting hours?
8:00 a.m – 5:00 p.m. Tickets will be sold until 4:45 p.m.
After a quick visit to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial I was on my back to Nara. It was still early in the day, so on the way, I decided to drop in at Fukuyama Station to explore the castle. I always used to adore this lovely castle from the comfort of my seat on the Shinkansen, when it used to stop at the Fukuyama Station. Today I finally get to explore it!
Fukuyama Castle was built in 1619 by the feudal lord Mizuno Katsunari, a younger cousin of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the shogun who unified Japan and established the Edo Shogunate. The castle is located in central Hiroshima Prefecture and is a leisurely stroll away from the conveniently located JR Fukuyama Station, which also happens to be a stop on the Shinkansen line.
It was around 3 pm when I got down at the Fukuyama Station. It is a sweet box-shaped, two-storeyed building.
JR Fukuyama Station
In front of the station you will find a small garden dedicated to different colored roses.
Just beside the station there lies a statue of Izura Shojin – which basically means five cove fisherman. The statue was modeled upon by a local fisherman known as Tenshin Okakura, a fisherman. The statue is a popular work of Hiraku Kushidanaka, a sculptor and honorary citizen of Fukuyama City.
Statue of Izurachojin at JR Fukuyama Station
The Castle lies on the other side, so I went back inside the station building searching for the other exit. The station may not look big from the outside but it houses many souvenir and cake shops.
Shops inside JR Fukuyama Station
The first thing I noticed as I exited from the back of the JR Fukuyama Station is this huge Information board. This detailed map of Fukuyama Castle Park helps immensely to plan your walk.
Information Board at Fukuyama Castle Grounds
A flight of stairs just next to the information board leads to the Castle Park, but I decided to go via the alternate route hoping to cover some extra area of the Park. The stone wall you see beside the stairs is the Sannomaru ( the castle’s third outermost enclosing wall).
Stairs leading to Fukuyama Castle Park
As I moved towards the secondary gate I passed by a narrow stream that may have been a moat surrounding the Fukuyama Castle Park.
Moat surrounding Fukuyama Castle Grounds
Withing a few minutes I found the side entrance. A short staircase surrounded by blooming flowers led me towards the Fukuyama Castle Park.
Stairs leading to Fukuyama Castle Park
The stairs led me to this small wooden gate. I am not sure if it has any historical significance. With not a soul around, it was impossible to get any local information.
Stairs leading to Fukuyama Castle
Just after the wooden gate I found myself on the premises of the castle park. There are benches are regular intervals. There are about 500 cherry trees at the castle grounds and thousands come to view the cherry blossoms when they bloom from late March to mid-April.
Fukuyama Castle Park
History of Fukuyama Castle
As you walk around the castle’s grounds and explore Fukuyama Castle Park you will come across many of its original ruins including the Castle gates and turrets. Sanzouinari Shrine, Bingogokoku Shrine, Fukuyama Museum of Literature and Fukuju Hall are also within a few steps of the castle’s grounds. Fukuju Hall has a pond, a teahouse, and beautiful garden that you can walk around. It’s also a great opportunity to take a seat, relax, and enjoy the towering view of Fukuyama Castle. Wandering around the park, I first arrived at the Sujigane Gomon Gate of Fukuyama Castle.
Sujigane Gomon Gate
Sujigane Gomon Gate of Fukuyama Castle
Below is a close-up capture of the rivets and the iron work on the Sujigane Gomon Gate. Most of the structures at the castle were destroyed in the air raids of World War II in 1945. Sujigane Gate is one of the two structures to have survived the ravages of time.
Metal work on the Fukuyama Castle Iron Gate
From the stone gate, I reached out to the main keep. Fukuyama Castle, also referred to as Hisamatsu Castle, is a five-story (six-level) castle. It is considered one of the renowned castles of the Edo period The history of Fukuyama Castle dates back to 1619 CE when the feudal lord Mizuno Katsushige became the ruler of the Bingo-Fukuyama domain, then known as Fukuyama Province.
Fukuyama Castle
The castle was built on a hill on the Fukuyama plain and it was the capital of Bingo Fukuyama Han. Construction of the castle was commenced in 1622 during the Genna era. The newly commissioned structure presented a grand sight with 6 floors with surrounding turrets and palace like residential elements. It used to be surrounded by double moats which provided an inlet to the Seto Inland Sea.
Many of the materials and buildings used to construct Fukuyama Castle were transferred from Fushima Castle in Kyoto under direct orders from Tokugawa Ieyasu.
The Fushimi Yagura of Fukuyama Castle
The beautiful castle turret (yagura in Japanese) managed to escape the destruction of not one, but two castles… Originally the yagura was built as part of the Fushimi Castle in Kyoto (hence its current name “Fushimi Yagura”). But after the castle was demolished by order of the Tokugawa shogun, the turret was dismantled and relocated here, in Fukuyama, becoming part of the newly constructed castle. Fushima Turret is listed as Important Cultural Property of Japan.
Fushimi Yagura of Fukuyama Castle
The Tsukimi Yagura of Fukuyama Castle
Tsukimi Yagura of Fukuyama Castle
Katsunari was well known as a very brave general and his subjects called him “Oni-Hyuga” which means “the demon of Hyuga.” Apart from being brave, he also carried out flood control projects and looked after the castle towns prosperity. Since the 17th century it has played an important role in Japanese history and was one of the greatest castles of the Edo period.
The Mizuno clan maintained control over the castle from its construction until 1700. Thereafter the Castle passed through the hands of several feudal lords.
The Castle managed to survive the widespread demolition of castles that took place during the Meiji Restoration, but 77 years later most of its buildings were destroyed during the US bombings of World War II . In August 1945 most of the castle’s remains that were not destroyed during World War II were demolished.
Disintegration of Fukuyama Castle
As time passed, Fukuyama Castle fell into disrepair after being abandoned and was eventually destroyed in a fire, but in 1966 the castle’s keep, observation tower, and tea house were all reconstructed. As the castle was being constructed, elements of Fushimi Castle in Kyoto that escaped destruction during the war such as the Fushimi observation tower and Sujitetsu-Omon gate were moved to Fukuyama Castle, allowing visitors to enjoy these national historic treasures even today.
The castle tower was also reconstructed in 1966 and opened as the Fukuyama Castle Museum, exhibiting articles and materials of successive feudal lords. The museum also features genealogies explaining the relationship between the Mizuno and Tokugawa families.
It was late and Nara was still a long way off, so I started my walk back to Fukuyama Station. This time I took the main route that takes you right in front of the Station. Along the path there were many flowering plants that beautify the landscape.
Fukuyama Castle Park
I came down the very stairs beside the Sannomaru wall, that I had seen previously near the Map Board. Fukuyama Station is built within the walls of the castle. When planning the construction of the Sanyo Shinkansen line, it was determined that running through the castle’s inner moat would be the shortest route and so the station was constructed right next to the Sannomaru.
Stairs leading to JR Fukuyama Station
While waiting for the train, I caught a last glimpse of the Fukuyama castle from the train platform.
Fukuyama Castle
The train to Osaka had some time so I waited. Fukuyama Castle is one of the very few tenshu that survived the Meiji Restoration, however it suffered extensive damage from Allied attacks in World War II. The main tower was rebuilt in part, thanks to the donations from the local residents. Today the area around Fukuyama Castle contains a park, a history museum, an art museum and other facilities, that help to spread the city’s history and culture.
Today the Castle is designated as one of the 25 National Historic Sites of Hiroshima and considered one of Japan’s Top 100 Castles from a list created by the Japanese Castle Foundation.
Waiting for the train at Fukuyama Station
Thanks for reading. I look forward to your reviews and questions. If you are looking to explore more of the Chūgoku region check out my journal on the Torii of Itsukushima or follow my story as I visit the great Buddha of Kamakura.
Fukuyama Castle is open from 9:30 am until 5:00 pm and costs 200 yen to enter for adults; students and children are free. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside the keep until you reach the top floor.
The top of Fukuyama Castle now serves as a viewing platform where those who climb to the top can get a look out over the whole area surrounding the castle. On the fifth and final floor you can venture outside on a balcony with 360 degree views. Here you can take pictures and enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of Fukuyama and its surroundings.
It was a painful, yet life changing experience at Nagasaki Peace Park couple of weeks back, so I took off to visit Hiroshima Peace Memorial today. Commonly called the Atomic Bomb Dome or Genbaku Dōmu, it is the only structure left standing near the hypo-center of the first atomic bomb which exploded on 6 August 1945, and it still remains in the same condition as just after the explosion. The structure is part of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Getting down of Shinkansen at Hiroshima Station
Atomic Bomb Dome at Hiroshima
Bus to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
On the Bus to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
Atomic Bomb Dome at Hiroshima
Hiroshima Prefecture Regional Timber Company Memorial
Hiroshima Prefecture Regional Timber Company Memorial
Atomic Bomb Dome at Hiroshima
Atomic Bomb Dome at Hiroshima
Red Bird Monument at Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
Red Bird Monument at Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
Atomic Bomb Dome
Atomic Bomb Dome at Hiroshima
Commemorative Tower in memory of deceased children at Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
A commemorative tower in memory of the deceased children due to the Atomic Bomb explosion over Hiroshima
Crossing the Motoyasu River
Motoyasu River along Hiroshima Memorial Park
Atomic Bomb Dome from the other side of the Motoyasu river
Atomic Bomb Dome at Hiroshima
Children’s Peace Monument
Children's Peace Monument at Hiroshima Memorial Park
Peace Bell
Peace Bell at Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
Flame of Peace
Flame of Peace at Hiroshima Memorial Park
Hiroshima victims memorial cenotaph
Hiroshima Victims Memorial Cenotaph
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
Miniature Model of the destruction of Hiroshima after the Atomic Bomb explosion
A model of the destruction of Hiroshima after the Atomic Bomb explosion
Charred tricycle at the Atomic Bomb Museum in Hiroshima
A charred tricycle caused by the Atomic Bomb explosion in Hiroshima
Burnt uniform
A burnt uniform from the Atomic Bomb explosion in Hiroshima
Twisted metal bars
Twisted metal from the force of the Atomic Bomb explosion in Hiroshima
Fused roof tiles
Fused roof tiles caused by the force of the Atomic Bomb explosion in Hiroshima
Damaged Buddha
A damaged statue of Buddha caused by the Atomic Bomg explosion in Hiroshima
Origami paper cranes created by Sadako
A bunch of cranes created by Sadako while praying for her fight against radiation poisioning
View of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park from the top floor of the museum.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
Waiting for the bus to JR Hiroshima Station
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
Thanks for reading. I look forward to your reviews and questions. If you are looking to explore more of the Hiroshima region you can read my journal on the Hiroshima Peace Pagoda or follow my story as I stop on my way home at Fukuyama to explore the lovely Fukuyama Castle.
Kochi Castle used to be the seat of the Yamauchi lords, who ruled over the surrounding area, then known as Tosa, during the Edo Period. Mani & I hike up the castle, the only one in all of Japan to have all the original buildings in the honmaru, or innermost ring of defense, still standing.
Early morning view of Kochi
View of Kochi city from JR Kochi Station
Statues
Statues of local heroes Ryoma, Nakaoka, and Nanpeita at JR Kochi Station
This weekend I was lucky to witness the Awa Odori, a traditional Bon dance. It originated in Tokushima Prefecture and is danced to the lively call of “Yatto San, Yatto, Yatto. The dance has a history of about 400 years, and is one of the largest festivals in Japan.
Watch this space for the full story.
Train ride to Tokushima
Train ride to Tokushima
Tokushima
View from Tokushima Station
Tokushima Station Building
Tokushima Station Building
Shinmachibashi Street
Shinmachibashi Street
Awaodori Kaikan
Awaodori Kaikan
Hut
Ranita at Henro Pilgrimage Hut
Musical performance
Musical performance at Awaodori Kaikan
Awa-odori dance performance
Awa-odori Dance
Awa-odori dance performance
Awa-odori Dance
Awa-odori dance performance
Awa-odori Dance
Awa-odori dance performance
Awa-odori Dance
Mani participating in Awa-odori dance performance
Ranita dancing to Awa-Odori
Awa-odori Museum
Ranita at Awa Odori Museum
Awa-odori Costumes
Dance costumes displayed at Awa Odori Kaikan
Awa-odori Instruments
Instruments displayed at Awa Odori Kaikan
Awa-odori Miniatures
Miniature model of the Awa Odori festival during ancient times
Awa-odori Miniatures
Miniature model of the Awa Odori festival during ancient times
