I am strolling on Mandvi beach, with the cool waters of the ocean slipping though my toes. The noise of the jeering tourists is drowned by the gentle waves of the Arabian Sea. A wave of black herons fly by as if the dimming sun is prodding them to go back to their homes.
Situated at the border of Diu and Gujarat, Mandvi beach is a 6 km long stretch where the pristine water of the turquoise Arabian Sea adjoins the seashore. It was once a major port of the region and summer retreat for King Maharao of Kutch.
Once we were back from the salt desert of White Rann, we decided to spend an evening at this pristine beach. The reception at Click Hotel helped me obtain a car for the ride to the port city.
Drive from Bhuj to Mandvi
Mandvi is about an hour down the road from Bhuj, a busy little place with a spectacular shipbuilding yard. I was pleasantly surprised as the flat landscape gradually changed into a hilly terrain as we drove farther away from Bhuj. While in Bhuj and during my stay at the Rann Utsav, all I have seen is vast stretches of flat lands.
There isn’t much to see along the highway except tiny huts and a few single floored concrete buildings. Mandvi suffered far less destruction than Bhuj in the 2001 earthquake and the heart of town, around Mochi Bazar doesn’t show much damage as I witnessed at Chattardi in Bhuj. The buildings along the colorful town are decorated in faded pastel hues.
History of Mandvi
Located right on the Gulf of Kutch, with the Rukmavati River flowing on the east, the town of Mandvi has a rich history. A fortress was established here in the late 16th century and the town itself was a bustling sea port and trading center. Its landmark temples that drew people from all over the kingdom of Kutch. Today it is a slower, calmer place known for its golden sand beaches and migratory birds.
Mandvi Beach
Our driver dropped us off at the parking area. The beach is just a minutes walk away. Before I reach the turquoise green waters of the sea, huge wind mills on my right draw my attention away. The Wind Farms Beach and Wind-mills, which line the horizon of Mandvi, offer a spectacular view from the beach. The Wind mills projects running here is Asia’s first Wind-Mills Projects, started way back in 1983.
Windmills at Mandvi Beach
The noise grows louder as we walk further towards the wide sea. It was like a carnival out there. People are busy with swimming, surfing and speed boat trips. Some of the more daredevils are trying their hand at parasailing.
Tourists at Mandvi Beach
We walk away from the crowd and find ourselves are quiet spot in the sun. A few kilometers away from here lies Vijay Vilas Palace. Built as a summer resort in the 1920s by the then Maharao of Kutch, Vijay Vilas Palace is a beautiful red sandstone structure fusing Rajput architecture with colonial elements. Unfortunately we wont have time to explore it today.
Mandvi Beach
As we sat, chatting away, camels keep running by, carrying shrieking tourists on their back. Apart from swims and walks; one can also avail of these camel rides available at the beach.
But I am here just for a leisurely walk on the beach. The beach is a curving stretch of golden sand fringed by blue-green waters, with windmills on one side, the breakwater on the other, and an uninterrupted view of the Arabian sea in front.
As the hot Sun began to make us uncomfortable, we walked towards what appeared to be a breakwater. Some people were sitting precariously at the edge enjoying the gentle breeze. We couldn’t find any way onto the platform, from our side of the beach, so we resigned ourselves to this side of the sandy beach.
Breakwater at Mandvi Beach
Time flies when you are having fun. I didn’t realize, how quickly evening was upon us. The crowd had thinned and many of the people ferrying camels were casually moving around trying to find interested clients. We don’t ride animals, but I called up to one of the camel owners to ask if I could use his tattooed pet to take some pictures. His pet camel called Saagar, was friendly. He stood there calmly as I took a few photos.
Mani at Mandvi Beach
The guy also offered to click a photo of us with the handsome beast.
Viki and Mani at Mandvi Beach
Sunset on Mandvi Beach
We waited at the edge of the shore, even as the tide slowly receded, revealing more and more of the golden sands. Occasionally someone would disturb the peace with the vrooming of the engines of the monster sand bikes gliding over soft beach sand.
Dusk at Mandvi Beach
Luckily I was carrying my 80-400mm lens. With the Gitzo tripod holding the beast of a lens, I managed to get a zoomed shot of the lone star in our solar system.
Sunset at Mandvi Beach
Due to the strong haze, the sun started to disappear a lot before even touching base with the ocean. We said our final goodbyes to the lovely beach on Mandvi and headed back towards the parking lot.
Sunset at Mandvi Beach
Mandvi beach is one of the finest beach of Gujarat and a historic port town of the Maharao of Kutch. Embraced with golden sands and fishing villages, Mandvi is an idyllic location for a relaxed evening. It is beautifully besieged by windmills on the one hand and green waters on the other. Though not as famous as its northern neighbor Bhuj, Mandvi remains a great place to soak in history and enjoy Kutchi hospitality, all at a leisurely pace.
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The advent of winter in India brings with it the best weather to experience the historically rich nation. We were in Bhuj to spend a few days in leisure at the Rann Utsav. Rann Utsav is an initiative of the government of Gujarat, which facilitates a four-month long festival in the midst of the Thar desert, every year starting from November and lasting till February. A smart move that generates livelihood for the local villagers who are only too happy to welcome visitors from across the globe – to savor the local delicacies and to witness the unique culture of Kutch.
Bhuj to Rann Utsav
We landed in Bhuj a day before to prepare ourselves for the days at White Rann tent city. We were staying at the Click Hotel, just 15 minute drive from the Airport and just adjacent to the Bhuj Railway Station. The folks from the Rann Utsav, had set up a makeshift tent just adjacent to the hotel.
Dhordo tent city, where Rann Utsav is held, is quite some distance away from the city and they transfer visitors on buses from this base. Various buses are scheduled over the length of day at frequent intervals. We had a quiet breakfast at the Hotel and checked out at 10 am. In the morning I had quietly obtained our passes on the 11 am bus so it was no hassle for us. In fact we were upgraded to an air-conditioned Jeep.
Ride to Rann Utsav
With the bright Sun was beating down upon us, we zipped past the desert. The vegetation went from thorny Babool and Keekar bushes to a desolate golden brown flat desert.
Ride to Rann Utsav
Welcome at Dhordo Tent City
We reached Dhordo tent city in an hours time. Dhordo is the nearest village near the tent city. A large gate welcomed us into the complex.
Entrance gate to Rann Utsav grounds
The visitors got down one by one form the bus and were taken on one of the buggies to the reception hall.
Buggy Rides at Rann Utsav
The reception hall lies on the right just after the entrance gate. At the reception, we were handed out our meal tickets to use over the period of our stay. Our luggage was sent directly to our tent.
Reception Hall at Rann Utsav
Each tent is a stand-alone unit, laid out in a circular area. with a massive green carpeted area in the center. The tents were clean and with lot of space to move around.
Premium Tents at Rann Utsav
The sun rays are softened by the thick dotted tent cloth and creates a beautiful glow inside. The AC tents were equipped with all possible amenities that one can think and ask for – Room coolers, round the clock supply of warm water in the middle of a desert.
Interiors of a premium tent at Rann Utsav
It was mid afternoon and the AC was already on. Let me tell you right now, even though its November, the afternoons are very bright and consequently hot.
Day 1 at Rann Utsav
It was lunchtime, and after cooling down in front of the AC, we walked out for a block towards the dining hall nearest to our lodging. Two magnanimous dining halls serve sumptuous authentic Kutchi cuisine at the tent city. The dining hall is huge, about the size of a small football field. The eat-as-much-as-you-want buffet is delicious, but vegetarian. They also have special counters set up for Jains, as their food requirements are rather strict. During the stay of our span, I had various dishes, each fulfilling my insatiable appetite for local delicacies.
With our satisfied tummies, we got hold of one of the buggies ferrying visitors around the complex and requested him to take us on a quick tour of the area. The Rann Utsav a city made of more than 400 AC and non-AC tents, divided into 7 blocks, each with around 60 tents. Some of them are basic tents and some premium like the one we were lodged in. The driver also showed us the executive tent, allotted to VIP’s. He went on proudly how the current Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi had been their guest for a couple of days.
He dropped us off in front of our block. We spent the rest of the afternoon lazing on the cot.
As evening approached, we were informed about the sunset visit to white Rann at 5.50. We slipped into the local village attires that we had obtained the previous day from Waniyawad market in Bhuj. There are many local handicraft shops around Bhuj and their artisans, ingenious with thread and needle create extremely fine style of embroidery called Mutwa, patterned around tiny mirrors.
Sunset at White Rann
Sunset at White Rann
Nothing beats a sunset and that too at the endless desert of White Rann. While basking in the beautiful sunset the only thought that grazed my mind was this, right here – is one of the “Real” 7 wonders of the world. During the monsoon months, the Rann of Kutch is submerged in sea water. As the sea water finally begins to recede in October, the Agariyas move in and begin the elaborate process of salt farming. First, they dig wells to pump out highly saline groundwater from the lake of brine that lies 40 feet below the crust.
We stayed awake till midnight when the die-hard night crawlers came out of their tents as did we. We were taken to the zero point where the full moon showered us in its blue light.
Midnight at White Rann
Day 2 at Rann Utsav
The next day, we woke up late after the midnight stroll at White Rann. The weather was just perfect, not to warm and neither to cold. We stayed in for much part of the morning. There wasn’t much to do at the edge of a desert and as we chatted away, loosened its grip on our minds. Without the demands of schedules crammed with “attractions” and “things to do – we were free to let thoughts unravel, reflect, or simply tune out.
We got out of bed around noon. A tour bus was scheduled to pick us up for Kalo Dungar. After another round of paneer and mawas, we were ready to visit the highest point in Kutch.
Gandhi-Nugam
The bus picked us up at 3 pm. The driver was a bit of a novice and he lost his way a couple of times. On the bus a young guide explained to us how surrounded by the sea on one side and the grim, treeless and practically inaccessible Rann mountains on the other, Kutch had been for centuries cut off from the rest of India. With the sea as their primary outlet, the local tribes took to the sea, trading with Arabian kingdoms. Yet while Kutchies have traveled far and wide, Kutch itself remained in a time warp, closed to the influence on the Indian subcontinent.
Village Houses in Gandghi-Nugam
In the villages around Kutch, these nomadic tribes, each with their own unique tradition of craft-work passed down from generation to generation, gave Kutch its reputation for producing India’s most beautiful handicrafts.
It is at one of these villages where we got down to indulge ourselves in some of the Kutchi handicrafts. Amid the arid and barren land of Kutch, a new dimension is added by the vivid imagination of Rabari women.
Gujarati handicrafts at Gandghi-Nugam
Rabari embroidery is characterized by chain stitches and a generous use of mirrors. The women depict the world around them, without the help of sketches or patterns. The only material used is a simple needle and thread, which they purchase from Bhuj, the nearby town. Mani bought a stole for herself.
Many of the villages where the Rabaris, Ahirs, Meghwalis and other tribes lived were devastated by the 2001 earthquake.
After spending an hour among the most vivid shopping mall, we left for Kalo Dungar.
Kalo Dungar
Seating platform at the top of Kalo Dungar
We ride out deep into the desert to explore Kalo Dungar also known as the Black Hill. Kalo Dungar is the highest point in Kutch and the best place to enjoy a panoramic view of the amazing Rann of Kutch. Though not literally black, the hill is known so because in olden times, the merchants returning to Kutch from Sindh used to be guided by this lonesome hill in the grim desert, which used to appear black because of the shadow cast by the sun.
I would be the last person to get up at 5 am on a vacation. But I did and yes I am not complaining. I was witness to the most lovely sunrise over the white melted salts of White Rann. The silence accompanied with the vastness of space, the cool breeze of early November and the locals dressed up in ghagra & cholis make this moment a feast for my disenchanted urban soul.
It was a special couple of days in White Rann. For centuries, Kutch had its own time, currency and language. Its walled cities were locked at sunset and opened at dawn. It is said, during the reign of Rao Khengarji III between 1876 to 1947, the keys of the five gates of Bhuj, were delivered to him every night and handed back every morning. This system ended in 1948, when his successor, Maharao Madan Sinhji, acceded to the Indian Union, and in November 1956 Kutch became a district in the state of Bombay.
Best time to visit Rann of Kutch
The climate in Rann owing to its desert land is considered to be one of the harshest and hottest temperatures recorded in India. The summer temperatures go as high as 50 degree Celsius. The winters are also quite extreme with temperatures dropping to as low as 0 degree Celsius. During the monsoon, the salt desert is covered with water considering its proximity to the Luni, Rupen and Indus rivers. The marshy desert is only about 49 feet above sea level.
The best time to visit Rann of Kutch is in winters at the time of Rann Mahotsav. Rann Utsav usually starts from the first week of November & usually, lasts up to March. One of the biggest salt deserts in the world, the great Rann of Kutch in the Gujarat state of India is known not only for its natural splendor but for what its inhabitants have created – The Rann Utsav. Magnificent is the word that one could simply use and glorify the natural beauty of Kutch with the canvas of culture, the profusion of art forms, and an overabundance of life. Please check out the official website of the Rann of Kutch Festival before you plan out.
Considering the magnitude of the festival, the accommodation at Rann is expensive during season time and hence it is advisable to pre-book if one wishes to visit the white desert during the utsav. Other than the festival months there is no accommodation option available in the desert, in this case one could opt to stay around Rann or could make a day trip from Bhuj.
Once at Rann Utsav the shopaholic can also indulge in buying authentic Gujarati handicrafts handmade by the Kutchhi people with a variety of options in clothes, bags and other items such as shoes and puppets.
During season, a variety of food options are also available at Rann starting from local chaats, Gujarati snacks to full-fledged Gujarati thalis. Apart from the festival months, there are barely any options available for food. It is advisable to carry water and food if one wishes to visit Rann from March to November.
Other Places to see around Bhuj
The capital city of Kutch is one of the most interesting and cultural cities of India. It was ruled by the Jadeja Rajput dynasty of the Samma tribe in 1510 and made Bhuj their capital and remained Kutch’s most important town ever since.
Bhuj sells some amazing handicrafts which is known worldwide apart from the historic buildings such as the Aina Mahal and Prag Mahal which are worth a watch.People who are fond of exploring of old monuments and temples will love to explore this city.
Chattardi
Ruins of Chattardi Bhuj
The cenotaph of Rao Lakhpatji
Chattardi at sunrise
Tombstone of a Rajput King
Chattardi in Bhuj is a small yet wonderful place to experience the history of Kutch. These Chattardis or umbrella-shaped domes were built around 1770 AD to glorify the tombs of the Royal families of Rajput lineage. Surrounded by sea on one size and the grim Rann mountains on the other, Kutch remained cut off from the rest of India, in a time-wrapped cocoon with its amazing culture and art confined within these natural boundaries.
We drive to Mandvi Beach to laze out in the winter Sun. The beach is a curving stretch of yellow sand fringed by green waters, with windmills on one side and an uninterrupted view of the Arabian sea on the other. The sea is safe for swimming and the beach is ideal for walking. The beautiful beach offers many fun activities including Camel rides, bubble floats, speedboats and even para-sailing. But for us peace hunters, a few steps away there is the silence of the gentle waves and the occasional herons flying by.
The earthquake of 2001 that cost tens of thousands of lives in India last January also destroyed a unique civilization in a remote desert haven.
It was the destruction of part of our heritage. For India, the earthquake left its second largest district ruined; for Kutch, it left an age-old, distinct culture in tatters.
Like the Rann itself, that silence, that solitude, is an expanse unto itself. As a break from my urban life, it is a luxury, an escape.
I am at Kalo Dungar, some 50 km north of Dhordo tent city, on the top of the Black Hills. The highest point in Kutch, offers a bird’s-eye view of the Great Rann of Kutch. From here, the entire northern horizon vanishes into the Great Rann, the desert and sky becoming indistinguishable on the horizon.
Drive from Dhordo Tent City to Kalo Dungar
I and my travel companion – Mani, were staying at the Dhordo Tent city. Every year, the government of Gujarat holds a four-month-long festival known as ‘The Rann Utsav’ starting from November to February. The stay at the Tent city includes a free bus tour to Kalo Dungar.
The route to the hill is not very clearly marked. It is best to visit Kalo Dungar before sundown to avoid getting lost on the secluded roads leading to the hill. Our driver, though being a local, got lost twice and had to backtrack to get the bus back on the correct route. Although if you do get stuck at the hill, there is a dharamshala at the top where you can find shelter and basic food.
Even at 462 meters, the hill can still pose a challenge to the novice driver with roads inclined at very steep angles. Halfway up the hill, for a moment the bus driver almost gave up looking at the steep terrain.
Eventually, after a lot of coercing, laced with encouragement from fellow tourists, the bus reached the parking zone, which lies a little distance away from the top. From here local jeeps took us to the peak for Rs. 20 per head. It’s not much of a distance, probably just a way to allow the locals to make some earnings.
While going up, looking down from the back of the jeep, I realized that no bus would have made the drive to the peak. The jeep dropped us off in front of the Dattatreya Temple.
Just opposite the temple lies an Army outpost. This is one of the places where a civilian can get closest to the Pakistan border, and there is tight security around the hill.
Dattatreya Temple on Kalo Dungar
The hilltop is also the site of a 400-year-old temple to Dattatreya, the three-headed incarnation of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva in the same body. Many fables and tales are associated with the history of the Kalo Dungar. One of them says that Dattatreya happened to pass by this hill while walking on the earth. While admiring the barren landscape, he found a band of starving jackals. He offered them his body to eat and as they ate, his body continually regenerated itself.
Dattatreya Temple on top of Kalo Dungar
Some people differ saying that it was actually a holy saint named Lakkh Guru, a worshiper of Dattatreya who used to live there in an ashram. One day a pack of wild jackals appeared in his ashram and stood expectantly in front of him. When he realized that they were famished, he offered them a simple meal of rice and dal, the staple diet of his ashram. Since that day the jackals started coming each day, day after day.
Because of this, for the last four centuries, the practice of feeding jackals still continues to this day. The priest of the temple prepares food and serves it to jackals every morning and evening, after the aarti (praying).
Beside the temple is a makeshift tent selling Gujarati handicrafts and traditional dresses.
A street hawker selling local handicraft items
From here we were on foot, making our way upwards towards the topmost viewpoint. People with a disability or just plain unfit can avail the use of beautifully dressed Camels, who can carry them to the top.
The road though steep, is an easy walk and we were hardly challenged as we reached the top viewpoint within a few minutes.
Steps leading to Kalo Dungar peak
In the distance, despite the haze, I was still able to make out the rectangular salt fields. These are the lands of the Agariya tribe, traditionally salt farmers, who have lived here for centuries. Working every day under a scorching sun from mid-October to June, the Agariyas harvest almost 75 percent of India’s overall salt produce.
Across the Black Hills, staring into infinity, one can realize the tremendous effort of the Sindh merchants, who undertook the crossing of the Great Rann for trade in the olden times.
Evening at Kalo Dungar
Why is the Kalo Dungar called Black Hill
Well here is another interesting story. It is intriguing why the locals refer to this hill as the Black hill. There is not a point on the hill that is remotely associated with that color.
Though not literally black, the hill is known so because, in olden times, the merchants returning to Kutch from Sindh used to be guided by this lonesome hill in the grim desert, which used to appear black either because of the shadow cast by the sun or because of the dense forest cover. Just like the North Stars guides the lost people at sea, Kalo Dungar used to act as a marker so the caravans of people crossing the desert would follow it to understand their location.
Enjoying the beautiful sunset at Kalo Dungar
There weren’t many tourists at the top. A cemented platform with makeshift benches provided relief to those who had tired from the climb. A small structure stood below us shaped like a hut with the words “Suswagatam” painted, which means “welcome” in Hindi.
We wandered around immersed in the beauty of the surrounding. Local kids in their teens would, from time to time, come around offering tea. A few of the brave-hearts had ventured beyond the cemented platform into a narrow trail that went further to the edge of the hill.
The Sun gradually slipped into oblivion. After taking a few shots of the picturesque landscape we started walking back towards the bus.
Twilight at Kalo Dungar. The India Bridge can be seen on the left if you zoom in to the scene
While driving back, there was a section on the road which our guide brought attention to. He reported that in that 4 km stretch of the road, vehicles roll down in neutral gear at speeds of 70-80 km/hr.
However, a quick search on the internet informed me that the movement of the vehicle is only because of the steep slope and there was no anomaly causing it. Experts from the Indian Institute of Technology (IIT), Kanpur and Institute of Seismic Research (ISR), Gandhinagar have concluded that vehicles suddenly gain speed in the descent only because of the steep slope. So much for the magic theory.
Going back was thankfully devoid of any adventure and we reached Dhordo in an hour’s time.
How to reach Kalo Dungar using public transport
Kandva village is the closest inhabited village which is located around 25 kilometers from Kalo Dungar. Reaching the hilltop by public transport is difficult; the only bus travels there from Khavda on weekend evenings and returns in the early morning. Hiring a jeep from Khavda is the better option. Bhuj is almost 90 km away and a day tour from Bhuj would be quite taxing.
People who want to see the Great Rann of Kutch from a different perspective must head up to Kalo Dungar. In my opinion, staying at one of the resorts in Dhordo is the best option for enabling a good experience of Kalo Dungar. The drive takes about an hour and one can stay a bit late after the sunset and still make it back to the resort quickly.
Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit Mandvi Beach on the Arabian Sea.
